Yard & Garden Line News Volume 8 Number 15                                                               September 15, 2006

Features this issue: Shrubs: Know 'em and Grow 'em Diplodia Shoot Blight and Drought Tucking Your Roses in for Winter- How far to pull up the blanket? Trimming Back Herbaceous Perennials- Should we do it in fall or spring? Garden Calendar Editorial Notes

Shrubs: Know 'em and Grow 'em
Nancy Rose, Regional Extension Educator, Horticulture

'Northern Lights' azalea.

Clethra--Summersweet

Snowberry fruit Photos: Beth Jarvis

Cutleaf sumac.

Pagoda dogwood.

Potentilla Photos: Beth Jarvis

Shrubs are an essential element in a well-designed landscape, yet too often they are thought of as mere dust ruffles, planted to hide an unattractive house foundation. But a quick trip to the nearest garden center will prove that the many varieties of shrubs available can provide an amazing diversity of sizes, growth habits, foliage types, flowers, and fruits.

Ranging from less than a foot to over fifteen feet tall, shrubs play a vital role in tying together elements of differing heights in the landscape. The contrast in heights between tall elements, such as mature shade trees or tall evergreens, and low-growing elements like turfgrass can look rather abrupt, but a selection of shrubs of varying heights can provide a pleasing transition and lead the eye through all layers of the landscape.

While shrubs certainly can be used to hide a foundation, there are many more uses for them as well. Certain shrubs have such unique ornamental features that they can be planted as single specimen plants. Large shrubs such as white fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus), panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata), and cutleaf sumac (Rhus glabra 'Laciniata' or R. typhina 'Tiger Eyes') work well individually, as do small specialty shrubs like dwarf conifers.

More commonly, shrubs are planted in multiples, either a number of plants of one variety, or a mixture of different varieties. On large commercial or residential properties shrubs such as barberries, spireas, and dogwoods can be planted in solid masses, with dozens or even hundreds of plants of one variety planted closely together. On smaller sites the groups of shrubs should be smaller to stay in scale (Landscaping tip: plant shrubs in odd numbered groups like 3 or 5 for a more natural look).

A mixed shrub border is a great way to combine plants that have different seasonal features. Select a combination of shrubs to provide spring bloom, summer bloom, colored or variegated foliage, interesting fruits or seedheads, and colorful winter bark or picturesque branch architecture for landscape interest throughout the year. A number of shrubs, especially small to medium-sized varieties, are great companions to herbaceous perennials. Consider mixing small shrubs like Japanese spirea (Spirea japonica), 'Carol Mackie' daphne (Daphne x burkwoodii 'Carol Mackie'), potentilla (Potentilla fruticosa) , or dwarf conifers with mid-height perennials in beds and borders. Taller shrubs can be worked into the back of perennial beds.

Shrubs are also great for screens and hedges. Even if you already have a solid fence to screen a view or provide privacy, adding a row of shrubs can soften the hard lines of the fence and add ornamental qualities to the site. Many shrubs are suited for either formal or informal hedges.

Formal hedges must be clipped several times per year to establish and maintain their geometric shapes and smooth planes (Landscape tip: formally pruned hedges should always be slightly wider at the base, narrower at the top, so sunlight reaches the lower branches and keeps the foliage full and healthy). Good shrub choices for formal hedges include Korean littleleaf boxwood (Buxus microphylla var. koreana), arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis), alpine currant (Ribes alpinum), and yew (Taxus sp.).

Informal hedges are much easier to maintain, since they require only minimal pruning. An informal hedge simply requires planting the shrubs close together and letting them develop their natural shape. Many shrubs make excellent informal hedges, including arborvitae, upright junipers, many viburnums and dogwoods (Viburnum and Cornus), and some lilacs such as Chinese lilac (Syringa x chinensis) and 'Miss Kim' lilac (S. patula 'Miss Kim').

Of course, before selecting and planting any shrub it's essential to know what site and growing conditions will suit it best. While a particular plant may look gorgeous in the glossy pages of a nursery catalog, it won't look anywhere near as stunning in your yard if you don't meet its basic cultural requirements. Fortunately, a great many shrubs are adaptable to a range of conditions; perhaps they'd prefer full sun, but will also grow in light shade, or they'd like moist yet well-drained soil but will do fine in soil that's a little drier and sandier, or damper and more clayish.

However, some shrubs have very specific requirements and will not thrive if these requirements are not met. Perhaps the best examples of these pickier shrubs are those that require acidic soil. Azaleas and rhododendrons (Rhododendron sp.) top the list of acid-lovers. They need a soil pH between 4.5 and 5.5 to really grow well (Don't know the pH of your soil? Contact the U of M soil testing lab for information on how to have your soil tested for a cost of about $15.00). Blueberries (Vaccinium), which are wonderful ornamentals as well as fruit producers, require soils as acidic as that for azaleas. Winterberries (Ilex verticillata), summersweet (Clethra alnifolia), and bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica) also prefer soils on the acid side (about pH 5.0 to 6.0).

There are hundreds of shrub varieties available at local nurseries and garden centers as well as through mail-order nurseries. Use books, gardening magazines, and plant catalogs to learn as much as you can about shrubs before you purchase and plant them. Important things to know include mature size and growth habit, cultural requirements, and ornamental features. While it's easy to fall in love with all the beautiful blooms when shrub shopping in the spring, be sure that you also select some varieties that will have other ornamental features through the seasons as well.

And remember that shrubs can be removed and replaced. If you have a shrub that is too big, is perpetually plagued by insects or disease, or you just plain don't like it, you'll be much better off to remove it and select a suitable replacement. With all the terrific choices out there - both new varieties and time-tested favorites - you're sure to find the perfect shrub for any location.

Juniper. Photo: Beth Jarvis

SHADE TOLERANT
Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia)
Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia)
Bush Honeysuckle (Diervilla lonicera)
Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens)
Alpine Currant (Ribes alpinum)
Yew (Taxus sp.)
Coralberry and Snowberry (Symphoricarpos sp.)
Arrowwood Viburnum (Viburnum dentatum)
Nannyberry Viburnum (Viburnum lentago)

FULL SUN, HEAT TOLERANT
Juniper (Juniperus sp.)
Potentilla (Potentilla fruticosa)
Sumac (Rhus sp.)
Many roses (Rosa)
New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus)
Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)

WET SOILS
Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia)
Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa)
Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis)
Dwarf Red-tipped Dogwood (Cornus pumila)
Redosier Dogwood (Cornus stolonifera)
Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia)
Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)
Willows (Salix sp.)
Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)

ACID SOILS
Azaleas and rhododendrons (Rhododendron sp.)
Blueberries (Vaccinium)
Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia)
Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)

Diplodia Shoot Blight and Drought
Michelle Grabowski, Regional Extension Educator, Horticulture

Diplodia on tree.

Diplodia canker

Diplodia pycnidia Photos: US Forest Service

Diplodia shoot blight, also known as Sphaeropsis shoot blight, is a fungal disease that commonly infects pines with needle clusters of 2-3 needles. This includes red pine, Austrian pine, Scotch pine and jack pine in Minnesota. Other conifers can also be infected by Diplodia shoot blight, but these infections are not very common and typically not serious when they occur.

Diplodia shoot blight can be identified by branch tips on pine that are dead and straw colored. These shoots will have short, sometimes deformed, dead needles held together in clumps by resin. Close examination of dead needles will reveal small black bumps that have pushed through the epidermis of the needle. These are fungal fruiting bodies and can be seen on infected cones and shoots as well.

Diplodia shoot blight is caused by the fungus Diplodia pinea. This fungus infects only young, actively growing needles, shoots, and cones or older tissue wounded by insect or mechanical damage. Infections that start through a wound on older tissue result in a sunken canker that is covered in resin. If the resin is scraped away, olive streaking and dark brown resin soaked areas can been seen in the wood. Cankers are most common on saplings and pole sized trees and may grow to completely girdle and kill a branch or main trunk.

Young tissue that develops Diplodia shoot blight is typically killed. In a healthy tree, the fungus is unable to progress into older branches and one year of the disease does not have a serious affect on the overall health of the tree. In trees that are stressed by heat, drought, compacted soils, or other factors, however, the fungus is able to continue down into older branch tissue and can result in stem cankers similar to those seen at wound sites.

To avoid problems with Diplodia shoot blight, avoid stress on pine trees. Plant pines in the best location possible. Avoid planting non native pines like Austrian pines that will always be under stress from being out of their natural habitat. Take care when working around trees to avoid damaging branches and trunks. Do not use heavy equipment under the tree as this will compact soil in the root zone. Avoid drought stress by watering pine trees. Read the following articles to learn more about watering trees in the fall to reduce stress on them as they go into winter.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLN-Sept0103.html#water
http://www.extension.umn.edu/extensionnews/2005/watertrees.html

Prune out cankers caused by Diplodia shoot blight. Dead shoots can be cut off and destroyed. This will reduce some of the fungi surviving to the following year, but to truly have an impact on disease, infected cones must also be removed.

Tucking Your Roses in for Winter- How far to pull up the blanket?
David C. Zlesak, Regional Extension Educator, Horticulture

Terraced roses can be a challenge to winter protect. Photo: Beth Jarvis

Roses are a diverse group of plants providing many great options for the Minnesota gardener. Some shrub rose cultivars are completely hardy or experience minimal dieback in zones 3 and 4. Such roses typically survive winter best just being left alone or provided with a little mulch around the base and protection from knawing rodents. The increasing diversity available for flower color and display, plant size, fragrance, and ability to bloom over a long season in hardier landscape roses have led them to become staples in the MN landscape and increase in popularity. With that said, most roses still sold in Minnesota are the more tender cultivars that benefit from winter protection in zones 6 and colder to reliably survive.

The large, classically formed and colorful flowers of especially hybrid teas and also other more tender classes of roses (floribundas, grandifloras, and some miniature, climbing, and shrub rose cultivars) have tempted and convinced Minnesotans over and over to purchase and grow them. Such roses do not need to be annuals in Minnesota and can be overwintered successfully for many years using some timely insulation and wise growing practices. Getting tender roses to survive and reward you with their beauty next season begins during the growing season, well before the first chill in the autumn air is felt.

Some cultural practices to stimulate dormancy and enhance winter survival of tender roses include:

Discouraging succulent late-season growth by:
-Limiting fertilization (especially nitrogen) after August 1st.
-Not pruning heavily in late summer or fall.
-Discontinuing to deadhead spent blooms in late August.

Encourage stored sugars to accumulate and healthy nutrient levels by:
-Maintaining good watering practices throughout the fall.
-Preventing diseases and severe insect damage.

Insulating the more tender roses

Tipped climbing rose. Graphic: UICU

The goal of winter protection is not to keep frost out, but to keep it in and to prevent cycles of freezing and thawing and temperatures from dropping far below freezing. Often people see Styrofoam "rose" cones for sale in fall at local garden centers for the protection of tender roses and other tender perennials, but they typically cause more harm than good in our climate. As the late winter sun beats on them, temperatures can rise well above 80oF inside and during the night damage can occur as temperatures often drop well below freezing. Although commonly available and used by unaware gardeners, rose cones are not recommended in Minnesota. There are two major ways (and many variations on them) used in Minnesota to successfully protect tender roses growing in the ground- one is the Minnesota tip method and the other is leaving plants in place while mounding insulation material around canes.

The Minnesota tip method:

The Minnesota tip method can be credited to Albert Nelson, an avid rose grower who began growing roses in the 1920's. In the mid-1950's he took information learned from protecting raspberries and roses in the Northeastern United States and experimented with his roses here in the Midwest. The information suggested mounding soil around the base of the plants and bending down and covering canes with different sorts of mulch. Through trial and error he refined the process and came up with the Minnesota tip technique. Tipping generally occurs in mid to late October. The Minnesota tip method allows for most, if not all, cane material to be protected and involves:

-Spraying roses with a fungicide and watering the soil typically a day or so before the following steps.

-Tying the canes together from the bottom up to reduce the volume of the rose. Synthetic string or twine which does not degrade once in the moist soil is preferred. Pruning of roses is discouraged because cut wounds can be entry points for disease infection once canes are laid in the moist soil.

-Digging a trench as long as the plant is tall in which to lay the rose on one side of the plant (about a foot or more deep depending on the size of the rose) and loosing the root mass of the rose on the opposite side of the plant.

-Carefully tip the rose into the trench. Additional loosening of the root system with a garden fork or shovel may be necessary. Try to avoid breaking more roots than required to accomplish this.

-While pressing the rose into the trench backfill and mound soil over the canes and then cover exposed roots and canes with additional soil. Mark where the rose is buried with stakes or other devices in order to know where to find the rose come spring.

-Finally, mound the buried rose with a couple feet of mulch such as leaves, evergreen boughs, hay, or straw for additional insulation. Mulch can even be in plastic garbage bags to aid in spring removal and prevent waterlogging.

-In spring (early to mid April) raise the rose upright and carefully replant disturbed roots. Untie the canes, prune old, broken, or unwanted canes and water well. Protect canes from drying winds with wet burlap, opaque plastic, or antitranspirant sprays to conserve moisture as the plant reestablishes new root hairs and acclimates.

Mounding rose in place:

Bundled up tight.

Roses uncovered on nice spring day.

Soil exposed before removal. Photos: Beth Jarvis

Many Minnesota rose growers are finding success leaving roses in place and providing mulch to insulate the crowns of the plants, in especially recent years with warmer than usual winters. For this method the bud union or crown of the plant can be planted a couple inches below the soil surface in order to have more buds available in case of severe winter injury. The added depth increases the chance for at least some buds to survive if severely damaged and aid in regrowth. For larger roses, such as climbers, canes can be bent down in large enclosures made of wire fencing or other materials and filled with mulch. When using a larger volume of mulch, use straw, wood chips, oak leaves, or chopped corn cobs that will not get as waterlogged as maple leaves or grass clippings will. The air pockets between more porous mulch materials will aid in insulation. The two key benefits of this method is that the root systems are not disturbed (although cane dieback can be greater) and it is typically easier. Often by mid-summer the size of roses protected by this method or the Minnesota tip method are comparable. One method preserves canes better and the other roots. This method involves:

-Tying rose canes, as for the Minnesota tip method, can be useful with this method as well to reduce the volume of the plant and aid in working around roses and placement of insulation.

-Since canes exposed above the insulation will probably die anyway, such canes can be pruned heavily after growth ceases in order to prevent them from breaking in the wind and to make the winter landscape look more attractive.

-Soil (6-12") can be mounded around the base of the plant before the ground freezes and then a couple feet of mulch added typically in late October to early November. Alternatively, just mulch alone can be used and takes away the challenges around acquiring and transporting soil.

-In the use of mulch to directly insulate canes, it is useful to add rat poison so mice won't find a warm home and knaw rose bark off for food. The cane sections within frozen soil seldom are bothered by rodents.

-On the first warm days of spring, begin to slowly remove mounded mulch so heat doesn't build up and mold develop. Untie the canes, prune old, broken, or unwanted canes.

Special cases:

'Polar Joy' rose Photo: David Zlesak

Tree roses need special protection in our climate. The decorative cultivar we enjoy is grafted to the top of the tree with the trunk being a different rose. It is therefore important to make sure not only the top, but also the whole trunk over winters well. Tree roses are typically best protected using the Minnesota tip method. Surprisingly, there is a tree rose hardy for Minnesota developed by Bailey Nurseries Inc. (St. Paul, MN). It is a very hardy rose cultivar called Polar Joy^TM (once called Northern Encore^TM). This rose is not grafted like other tree roses and a single stem is trained to be the trunk and then allowed to branch. Many Minnesota Master Gardeners and rose lovers have gotten it before its official release and have raved that it has successfully survived without protection the past two winters.

Roses growing in pots (as well as other plants) placed on decks, patios or otherwise above the soil surface often die during the winter, even if they are typically hardy when planted in the garden. Soil in pots chills to air temperature, freezing the roots and killing the plants. If these same plants were in the ground, the soil temperature would hover just below freezing. Roses or other plants growing in pots can be buried sideways, pot and all, in the garden and lifted out come spring. Many rose growers choose to grow their miniature roses in two or three gallon pots on their patio or deck and overwinter them this way. If it is not feasible to move the pot, roses can be dug out from the pot, buried in a trench, and replanted in the spring. In fact, all roses can be completely dug out, buried for the winter, and replanted in the spring, but root injury can be significant and severely set plants back when done year after year.

How far we go to tuck our roses in for winter can best be determined knowing how hardy the cultivars are we are growing along with the resources we have available to protect them in regard to time, space, and energy. May we all be hardy enough to make it through another Minnesota winter and enjoy the spring 2007 gardening season ahead.

Trimming Back Herbaceous Perennials- Should we do it in fall or spring?
David C. Zlesak, Regional Extension Educator, Horticulture

Clipped iris Photo: Beth Jarvis

As we look out over the fall garden many of us see flowered-out perennials which were once glorious, but now are in decline. Some are succumbing to foliar diseases like powdery mildew or just going through the natural aging process and are losing their leaves and slowly turning brown. What can be done to both preserve the health of such plants so they will come back strong next season and clean up some of the unsightly material in our gardens? Each gardener needs to choose their own balance between these two objectives, weighing factors such as each particular plant species, their use of particular garden space for the winter season, disease pressure, and time availability.

As long as there has not been a freeze and there is green foliage to undergo photosynthesis, chances are there are still carbohydrates being generated and transported to the crown of the plant. Interfering with this process by removing stems and foliage will limit the amount of energy reserves the plant has going into winter and from which to fuel new growth the following spring. For the sake of the plant, it is typically best to wait to remove top growth until it naturally dies back or at least after a hard freeze in order to allow as much energy reserves as possible to be generated and stored. Some perennials when cut prematurely in the growing season may try to regrow from the base, especially if we have a long, warm fall. Such plants deplete stored energy reserves and may not survive the winter.

For especially marginally hardy plants such as mums and lavender, it is beneficial to leave old growth through the winter and remove it come spring. Stems can act as small windbreaks to accumulate snow, blowing leaves, and other materials which act to insulate the crown of the plant. In the University of Minnesota mum breeding program led by Dr. Neil Anderson, winter survival of mums were compared with those having top growth cut back in the fall after a few hard freezes versus leaving it through the winter. There was a clear trend that those with top growth present throughout the winter in these open research fields were much more likely to survive.

Another reason to leave top growth in tact through the winter is the winter interest it provides. Many perennials have relatively strong canes that do not readily lodge and provide interesting architecture, fruiting structures, or seeds desirable as food to wildlife. Some perennials which provide good winter interest include many of the daisy or composite flowers such as Echinacea (purple cone flower) and heliopsis, most ornamental grasses, and other sturdy plants with attractive fruit capsules such as Siberian iris.

For very hardy plants such as bee-balm, daylilies, hostas, and peonies, they are so durable that removing their foliage in the fall is generally no problem at all. In fact, removing foliage in the fall and carefully discarding it can help reduce disease pressure, if a problem, the following season. Even for the more tender or marginal perennials where diseases have been an issue, removal of diseased tissue in the fall is a wise choice. Mulch can be brought in as an alternative to help insulate the more tender perennials.

Barring disease pressure, leaving top growth on herbaceous perennials is the easiest way to manage herbaceous perennials and is what is recommended. Top growth can provide continued ornamental interest throughout the winter in itself and the wildlife it may attract. In addition, in spring top growth of many herbaceous perennials is more brittle and much easier to remove compared to the fall. Consider and weigh your particular perennials, winter garden preferences, and disease pressure and make the best choices for your situation.

Contributors: Nancy Rose Patrick Weicherding Bob Mugaas David Zlesak

Lawns

Nothing left but weeds! Photo: Beth Jarvis

If your lawn is somewhat yellow, you need to fertilize with a high nitrogen fertilizer (seee the 9/1 Garden Calendar for more info). Grass needs to actively grow in the fall to be healthy enough to sustain turf cover.

If the yellow rubs off, it could be rust. Dollar spot shows up in under-fertilized lawns. Read about dollaar spot at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/diagnostics/turfdollarspot.html

We're coming up to one of the better times for broadleaf weed control--from now to mid-Oct. Because the days are getting shorter, temperatures are getting cooler, and we're getting a bit of rain, plants are actively growing so photosynthates goes down to roots. This downward flow moves herbicide as well. Remember, if you want to do fall weed control, plants need to be actively growing, so water your lawn. Creeping Charlie can be sprayed now.

No point in putting down pre-emergence herbicide. It's of limited value now. Save that task for spring.

Wrap up lawn seeding tasks so you'll be done by the 20th of Sept. You can sod well into October. Be sure to do adequate site preparation and that includes tilling to incorporate any added soil. Loosening the soil surface to provide good soil to seed contact is critical to spot overseeding.

Trees and Shrubs

'Annabelle' hydrangeas can be pruned in spring. Photo: Beth Jarvis

Trees along the north shore in northern Minnesota are starting to turn so expect to see early fall color.

Water, water, water. Avoid dead or stunted growth next year by watering your woody plants this fall. Drought-stressed trees can't harden off properly. Read more about winter acclimation at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLN-Nov0104.html#chill

Start thinking about winter protection–1/4" hardware cloth cylinders around young trees. Mulch over the root zones but don't put up the winter protection yet. Instead of tree wrap, use plastic tree guards up trunk to first set of branches. Young trees will need both.

Containerized trees and shrubs are ok to plant. The absolute cut off for planting is 10/15.

If your planning to transplant something in your yard next year, root prune now. Tips abound at:http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLN-Oct0102.html#trees and http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLN-Nov0102.html#trees.

Fall needle drop seems particularly heavy this year. This is loss of inside needles. Death of outside needs (tips of branches) could be drought stress or disease.

Fruit,Flowers and Vegetables
Plant spring blooming bulbs. Their color and fragrance will be welcomed additions to the spring landscape after the Minnesota winter. Consider buying different species and/or varieties within a species that have slightly different flowering times to extend the spring bloom season.

Herbicides such as glyphosate (Roundup®) are typically more effective on difficult to kill weeds in the fall than any other time of the year. In addition, a fall herbicide spray on areas that will be put into vegetable or flower gardens next spring can kill current vegetation and allow for easier planting and fewer weed problems come spring.

Don't be too anxious to lay down a new mulch layer to insulate perennials for the winter. The goal is to keep frost in, prevent freezing and thawing, and prevent extreme cold to the plant's crown and root system.

If you need more color or a fresh look in your garden, incorporate chrysanthemums, ornamental kale, and fall flowering perennials widely available and often on sale this time of year at local garden centers.

If you've not had a first frost yet, assemble a collection of old bed sheets or other covers to toss over tomatoes and tender annuals when frost threatens. Covers won't protect the plants from a hard freeze but they will trap enough soil heat to spare plants from the first tinges.

Remove diseased flower and vegetable plants from your gardens and destroy them, do not compost them. Examples include plants infested with powdery mildew and "blighted" tomatoes. Apple maggot infested apples should be raked up and destroyed as well. Rake and remove apple scab-infected leaves as well as anthracnose-infected leaves.

Keep picking ripe raspberries. Picnic beetles are attracted to over-ripe fruit.

Pick apples as they mature. Remember, the background color changes from green to yelow, teh seeds are dark and when you bite into them, you don't feel starch on your teeth.

Don't touch apples if overnight temperatures dipped below freezing. Let them warm in the sun before picking as your warm fingers on chilly apples will cause internal browning of apple flesh.

Consider creating a mini hoop/poly house to protect graden greens from early, light frost. A couple of lawn chairs with plastic sheet spread over the top (and with ends weighted down) will work to forma temporary cover.

A light frost probably won't hurt your pumpkins or other winter squash. Harvest the before a hard freeze, when no green skin remains, the stems dry and the skin idoesn't yield to a thumbnail.

Harvesting and storing of garden produce is discussed here: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1424.html

You can still divide peonies. Container-grown perennials can be planted. Be sure to mulch everything in well.

Editorial Notes

Neighbor's morning glories. Photo: Beth Jarvis

Next issue, we return to monthly publication, on the first of each month. The first half of September has been very hectic so I'm looking forwqard to having time to get some articles researched and written. Among these are the interview with the Arboretum plant curator, and some research folks at the Horticulture Research Center. Also upcoming is an article by Nancy Rose on the trees of the family Fabaceae. `I'm still hoping to have an article on the physiological drawbacks of growing evergreens in shade vis a vis incidence of winter injury, among other things, one of these days.

Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.

Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/.

Deb Brown will be answering a few gardening questions with Cathy Wurzer on MPR, the first Friday of the month during the fall and winter, between 8:30 and 9:00 a.m. Then in spring, she'll be back at her regular schedule, 10 a.m. the first Friday of each month. The program is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations. (Scroll down for map.)

For plant and insect questions, visit http://www.extension.umn.edu/askmg. Thousands of questions have been answered, so try the search option in the black bar at the top left of the board for the fastest answer.

If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to: listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist or to unsubscribe, enter: unsub yglnewslist

Happy gardening!

Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator


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