Yard & Garden Line News Volume 3 Number 15                                                               September 15, 2001

Features this issue: West Central Research and Outreach Center Foliar Nematodes Keeping Geraniums Over Winter Lady Beetles and Fruit Editorial Notes

West Central Research and Outreach Center (WCROC)
Greg Cuomo, WCROC Station Head

Turn left to WCROC or right to campus. West Central Research and Outreach Center Yorkshire-Landrace -Hampshire swine. Holstein dairy cows. Columbia sheep. Canola research.

Fresh crop of potatoes --ready for evaluation. Display garden. Future mum release? Photo credits: U of MN Extension Svc.

The West Central Research and Outreach Center has a rich and varied history. Its roots are in a Native American High School that was founded in 1890. In 1910, that school became the West Central School of Agriculture, an agricultural high school. Students came to, and lived at the high school for about six-months during the year while they were not helping out on their family's farm. In 1960, the agricultural high school split into two entities, the University of Minnesota at Morris, a four-year liberal arts college, and the West Central Experiment Station, an agricultural research center. In 1998, the West Central Experiment Station was re-named the West Central Research and Outreach Center in an attempt to better describe what we do.

Many faculty members, students and other employees from the West Central School of Agriculture became the first scientists and researchers at the West Central Experiment Station. Several of those people including Harley Hanke, Wes Gray, and Les Lindor, are still active supporters of the West Central Research and Outreach Center. Dennis Johnson, our dairy scientist, is a graduate of the West Central School of Agriculture.

As the West Central Experiment Station developed into its own entity, animal husbandry, crop production, and horticulture were its' core research and education strength. The research and education focus stayed this way until about 1990. At this point, the Experiment Station realized that agriculture and rural Minnesota were changing, and that to be truly effective the WCROC needed to expand beyond its traditional strengths. The core of what we do today still lies in animal husbandry, crop production, and horticulture; however, we have embraced environmental and social issues, realized the importance of economics in all our program areas, developed our horticultural research garden into a regional showplace, and much more.

Agriculture in Minnesota is quite diverse. The WCROC is responsive in addressing topics and issues relating to these diverse agricultural systems. An example of this is our Environmental Management of Agricultural Systems project. The faculty and staff at the WCROC along with our Advisory Committee (made up of citizens from West Central Minnesota) identified water quality in agricultural production, particularly phosphorous entering surface water, as a key issue for both agriculture and society. An interdisciplinary team was assembled to evaluate the impact of crop and livestock production on surface water quality. The work of this team emphasizes both economic and environmental sustainability. The team is developing a Minnesota Phosphorus Index for the entire state of Minnesota. This index will be used to ensure minimal agricultural impact on waterways, which will ultimately improve the water quality of Minnesota's lakes and rivers.

Another strength of the WCROC is our unique resources. Our location and facilities allow us to be national leaders in evaluating the production and economic strengths and weaknesses of both conventional and alternative animal production systems. This is true for dairy, where we do research with lactating animals in confinement and on pasture; in swine, where we evaluate nutrition and animal behavior in confinement and alternative housing systems; and in sheep, where we evaluate farm flock winter lambing and spring lambing which attempts to maximize the use of pasture in sheep production systems.

Education is also a key focus of the WCROC. Our educational mission not only includes the extension programming generally associated with Research and Outreach Centers, but also has expanded to include traditional classroom teaching, innovative use of distance technology, education of graduate students, summer internships for undergraduates, and work-study opportunities. Our grazing-based livestock systems faculty have developed a web-based interactive grazing workshop in conjunction with the Rhetoric Department, our sheep production course is offered via ITV (Interactive Television) from Morris to both Crookston and St. Paul, WCROC faculty chair or serve on 12 - 15 graduate committees, and each year we provide 6 to 10 summer internships for students from Colleges across the region. The WCROC also has a regionally recognized Horticultural program which combines research and education in an aesthetically pleasing display garden. Annually, about 1000 people attend our summer Horticultural program and over 4000 people visit the garden.

Our approach to issues and our location in rural Minnesota position us to partner with many constituencies. The West Central Research and Outreach Center's faculty and staff work with farmers, rural leaders, faculty from other Research and Outreach Centers, other University of Minnesota Departments, and citizens to provide research and educational programming. Working with these many partners is our greatest strength. These partnerships keep us connected to the varied and changing needs of the producers and citizens of Minnesota.

Ed. note: For more information, including specific programs, please visit their website at: http://www.wces.agri.umn.edu/
Also, see the Northern Gardener magazine, April 2001, for information about the garden and plant trials.

Foliar Nematodes
Janna Beckerman, Extension Plant Pathologist

Foliar nematode produces a wedge shaped lesion in hosta and other monocots. Photo credit: Plant Disease Clinic.

Foliar nematodes are an emerging problem on a host of landscape plants in Minnesota. Unlike many other plant pathogens that have narrow host ranges, foliar nematodes, particularly Aphelenchoides fragariae, have broad host ranges and are capable of infecting hundreds of species of plants. In addition to broad host range, there are few effective nematicides labeled for home use. This can create "mini-epidemics" in the home landscape, and leave the homeowner frustrated.

Unlike most plant pathogenic nematodes, foliar nematodes live in and feed upon the aerial portion of the plant. These microscopic roundworms are unrelated to earthworms. After the eggs hatch, there are four larval stages prior to the mature adult stage. The entire lifecycle can be completed in 2-4 weeks, even sooner if the temperatures are higher. Any infected leaf will contain multiple generations of nematodes.

In Minnesota, symptoms of foliar nematode damage appear towards the end of the summer. The symptoms of foliar nematode damage are due to the nematodes' feeding on the foliage, stems and buds. This feeding usually causes a 'V' shaped necrosis. In hosta, the wedge-shaped lesion is delimited by the veins. In broadleaved plants and ferns, the lesions appear patch-like. It is quite normal to see healthy tissue right next to the diseased portions of the tissue. Lesion delimitation by the veins should make you suspicious of nematode; however, examination with a 10X hand lens is essential. Tear the suspected leaf in a dish with water. After approximately 12-24 hrs, examine the water with the hand lens. Observation of these little roundworms is a key diagnostic feature of this disease.

Foliar nematodes spread by contact between plants in the presence of water. They move through the surface of the plant and enter via the stomates (gas exchange pores). Because of the broad host range of this pathogen, it is recommended that plants be well spaced to allow foliage to dry between waterings. Drip irrigation, which minimizes foliar wetness, is recommended for gardeners who have this problem. Controlling leaf wetness isn't enough, though. Foliar nematodes are very tolerant of dry conditions, and can remain viable for several years in decaying plant material.

Angular lesions on zinnia produced by foliar nematodes. Photo credit: Plant Disease Clinic

Despite all this bad news, there are management techniques available. First, examine your nursery stock, and out plant to a "death bed" for the first season. This will allow you to either treat or dispose of any infected plant. Second, minimize foliar wetness to reduce the spread of the nematodes between plants. Thirdly, remove and destroy infected leaves, and remove all dried leaves and stems during fall clean up. Fourthly, insecticidal soap or ZeroTol (a concentrated solution of hydrogen peroxide) should be applied when symptoms become evident. This is a contact kill and has no residual benefits.

Finally, foliar nematodes are easily killed by heat. Remove any dead leaves, and soak infected plants in hot water (120-140 degrees) for up to 10 minutes (You may wish to divide plants up and soak 4, 7 and 10 minute intervals). You can kill the crowns if the water is too hot or if they are dipped too long. Continuous monitoring of the temperature is important. Use a timer or stop watch (Its too easy to forget what your time was and make a very unpalatable soup). Immediately following the hot water treatment, the plants are plunged in a bucket of cold water (as cold as possible from the faucet). Do not leave plants in the cold bath more than about 5 minutes -just enough time for the tissue to cool. Drain and pot the plants immediately. Plants do not store at all well after this dipping regime, so it is best to treat plants about the time they would be breaking dormancy. Unfortunately, because the nematodes can survive saprophytically in the soil, the long-term efficacy of this approach is questionable.

Although there are nematicides labeled for nursery use, these products are EXTREMELY toxic, especially to fish and wildlife, and are not available to the homeowner. Misapplication of these pesticides have been linked to death of hundreds of songbirds, fish and wildlife. It truly has no place in the home landscape. Proper management using the above suggestions, although labor intensive, is the environmentally friendly way to go!

Test your diagnostic savvy monthly with Disease Watch at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/PlantPathWeb/Plpa.htm

Keeping Geraniums Over Winter
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

'Merlin' Photo credit: Deb Brown

Geraniums are still among the most popular annuals we grow in Minnesota. How many of us share childhood memories of bright red geraniums blooming on a sunny school room windowsill in the middle of winter? And when it comes to providing bright, bold color in garden beds or containers, geraniums have few rivals.

Their fragrance leaves something to be desired, but that's carping. Most everything else about geraniums is exemplary. Available in an array of colors from white and softest pink to hot orange, fuchsia and sizzling fire-engine red, there's a geranium for almost every taste and outdoor color scheme.

Geraniums are truly easy to grow. They're not too fussy about soil types, they'll survive several days of hot, dry weather without watering and they'll bloom in half-day sun – though you'll get more flower clusters in full sun, six or more hours daily. Upright plants are equally at home in garden beds or large containers; trailing types are perfect for hanging baskets and window boxes.

Like most things, well-grown geraniums have become more costly. No wonder people really like to save them from year to year. But therein lies the rub. Unless you can keep your geraniums growing actively, there's a good chance you'll be disappointed with the results.

Although we call geraniums annuals, they only behave as annuals in freezing climates such as ours. In California they live for years, becoming quite large and woody. Because they possess no frost tolerance, geraniums that are left outdoors too late in autumn will die – not because it is in their nature to do so, but because cold temperatures leave them no choice. And that is where you can intervene, if you're so inclined.

Cultivar trials at the U. Photo credit: Deb Brown

You have several options: Grandma's way was to lift the plants, knock most of the soil off their roots, then store them in the basement or root cellar by tying several together and hanging them from the rafters. Come early spring, new sprouts would be visible emerging from the "dormant" stems.

That sounds easy enough.... but what's wrong with this picture?

Nowadays few of us have cool, damp basements or root cellars. Still, a number of people manage to store their geraniums in the coolest part of their basement over winter, probably in paper grocery sacks rather than hanging from the rafters. (Paper bags work better than plastic unless you punch plenty of perforations in the plastic for air circulation.)

Either way, the problem lies in the length of time it takes for stored geraniums to gather enough energy to begin blooming, once it's warm enough to plant them outdoors in spring. You may find that half the summer has passed before they're full of flowers. And since our season is rather short to begin with, this may not be entirely satisfactory.

Try to pot up stored geraniums as soon as you see new sprouts forming. If you can put them in your sunniest window, or better yet, under fluorescent lights that are kept on sixteen to eighteen hours daily, they should be just about ready to bloom by the time frost danger has passed. Once you've potted the geraniums, water them thoroughly whenever the soil feels dry. Dissolve a minute amount of fertilizer into the water each time, following label recommendations carefully.

About the middle of May you'll want to "harden off" your geraniums for several days. Put them outdoors during the day, then bring them back to a garage or protected porch at night before planting them in their permanent summer location.

Planter full of color. Photo credit: Deb Brown

Another option is to plant several geraniums in a large container, cut them back to four or five inches, then keep them close to a basement window or sliding glass door. Water them just often enough to keep them from shriveling. Once you see the beginnings of a flush of new growth in early spring, move them to a brighter location and begin to water and fertilize them regularly.

To save space you may prefer to root small cuttings from your geraniums, rather than bring entire plants indoors. Don't attempt to root your cuttings in water, though. They'll develop "soft" root systems that are prone to rotting and clump together when you transfer them to solid soil.

* Take tip cuttings about four to six inches long.
* Remove all flowers and buds; they'll divert energy from rooting.
* Dip the cut end of the stem into rooting powder.
* Stick your cuttings in containers of clean, moist vermiculite or fresh potting soil.
* Place the cuttings in a bright window or under fluorescent lights.
* Keep the rooting medium constantly moist until roots have developed and plants may be transplanted into small pots.

If all this sounds more like work than fun, just let your geraniums freeze this fall. After all, you've had four months of blooms from them. Next spring you can start fresh with healthy, vigorous new plants again.

Lady Beetles and Fruit
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

MALBs dining on apple. Photo credit: Jill MacKenzie

Lady beetles have long been friends of gardeners because of the large number of aphids and other insect pests that they eat. With the increasing numbers of multicolored Asian lady beetles (MALB) found in Minnesota in the last few years, our impression of lady beetles somtimes has changed as this lady beetle species can be nuisance by clustering around homes in large numbers during the fall. Well at least that's the only annoying thing they do. Or is it?

During late summer, there has been an increasing number of reports of MALB attacking fruit. Fortunately this does not seem to be too widespread, but the problem does seem to becoming more common. It is unusual for lady beetles, which are nearly all predaceous, to feed on plants. However, the most likely explanation is that they are looking for a sources of carbohydrates to maintain their energy levels during the end of the summer.

The most common fruit MALB has been found feeding on has been apples. MALB do not seem to be able to penetrate the skin of healthy apples — their mouthparts are not strong enough to penetrate the skin. Instead, they seem to rely on damage caused by other insects or by different means. They create small, shallow holes as they feed. Similar feeding damage has also been reported on plums.

MALB have also been found on grapes. Unlike apples, MALB can feed on undamaged, ripening grapes. Lady beetles can be troublesome on grapes for home gardeners as well as commercial growers. In at least one case, a small vineyard in Minnesota received significant damage due to lady beetles. Vineyards in Ohio discovered that lady beetles are not easily separated from the grapes during harvest and processing. MALB contaminates the fruit with a disagreeable musky odor that ruins entire batches of grapes.

We have even had a few reports of MALB on raspberries. Raspberries are apparently soft enough that lady beetles can feed on them without previous damage to the fruit. Interestingly, one gardener observed that he didn't notice lady beetles until after the yellowjackets started feeding. It is difficult to say whether the lady beetles were cuing in on something the yellowjackets did or the yellowjackets were just able to find the raspberries first.

Management of MALB on fruit can be challenging. If damage is not severe, ignore the lady beetles until they go away on their own. If the lady beetles are numerous and their feeding injury can not be tolerated, use an insecticide labeled for the specific fruit you intend to spray, e.g. carbaryl (Sevin) on apples. Be sure to observe the harvest interval between when you spray and when the label allows you to harvest the fruit. It is possible that the beetles may return before you can pick your fruit.

Get the low down on this month's insect pests at Insects http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/EntWeb/Ent.htm
Editorial Notes

Fall color in prairie. Photo credit: Beth Jarvis

This issue we look at the one of six Research and Outreach Centers, formerly called Experiment Stations. (Hopefully, we'll visit all of them, in time.)

In October, we return to publishing Y & GL News monthly, around the first of the month. Mary Meyer will write about ornamental grasses for the October 1 issue.

In future issues, I plan to continue featuring campus research projects as well. When you're ready to do some shopping, Doug Foulk, Ramsey-Washington, will write about pears, what to know and how to grow.

Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.

Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/. Our home page has clickable links to most of the components of the Yard & Garden Line, such as Bell Museum of Natural History, INFO U and the Soil Testing Lab.

Deb Brown answers gardening questions on Minnesota Public Radio's (MPR) "Midmorning" program on the first Thursday of every month at 10 a.m. Katherine Lanpher hosts the program that is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations.

If you have gardening questions, please call the Yard & Garden Line at (612) 624-4771.

If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to: listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist
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Happy gardening!

Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator


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