Yard & Garden Line News Volume 7 Number 3                                                               March 1, 2005

Features this issue: Master Gardeners Trial Flowers and Vegetables Pruning Time! Make Time for Houseplants Before Outdoor Gardening Season Protect Your Clothes From Fabric-Eating Insects Editorial Notes

Master Gardeners Trial Flowers and Vegetables
Jackie Smith, Carver/Scott Master Gardener

'Sunshine' squash Photos: All American Selections

Table and comentary based on data compiled by: Jackie Smith, Carver/Scott Master Gardener Coordinator:
Every summer, Master Gardeners throughout the state have the opportunity to conduct comparison trials on their choice of a flower or vegetable cultivar. They compare as many as six cultivars of the current year AAS winners together with other cultivars, some previous AAS winners.

The summer of 2004 provided additional challenges in the form of a long, cool summer. Some Master Gardeners contended with killing summer frosts. One reported seven frost episodes from late June to mid-August.

Cultivars were evaluated for yield, flavor, ornamental value, and whether or not they would purchase the cultivar to grow again.

Romano-type beans
Cultivar	Yield	Buy again?(%/yes)	Comments
'Baroma'	Flat pods, short--5.24"	54%	55% germination Unappetizing skin on pods
'Bush Romano'	curved pods, good germination.	26%	Unpleasant (78%) flavor, texture; a skin on pods
'Gina'	Almost 2 cups/plant. Highest yield. Flat pods	39%	Good flavor
'Greencrop'	Longest beans--6.86".	63%	Not true romano type. Best flavor overall.
'Magnum'	Narrow pods.	69%	Longest harvest period.
'Romano 14'	Curved pods	39%	Peel/skin on cooked beans
Hybrid Chinese Cabbage (Napa)
Chinese cabbage was direct seeded in mid-July then thinned to 4 plants per cv. Several cultivars did not head up by the reporting deadline Oct. 15
Cultivar	Yield	Buy again?(%/yes)	Comments
'Blues'	Largest heads	80%	Good texture
'China Pride'	Not as vigorous,3.38 plants/10 seeds	40%	Earliest to head. Great flavor
'Jazz'	Fewest harvestable heads, medium size.	40%
'Optico'	Last to head, medium size.	38%
'Rubicon'	50% germination, most total heads.	40%	Disliked texture.
'Yuki'	53% germination. Avg 4.67 plants per cv.	60%	Flavor not well-rated
Jalapeno-Type Peppers
It was a long, cool summer in the pepper patch, where pepper growers evaluated 3 plants from each cultivar. The plants went into the garden on average around June 2, as night temperatures warmed into the 50s, after being raised indoors/in a cold frame for approximately 2 months. Almost 60% of the growers staked or caged plants though some let the plants grow into each other for mutual support and were favorably impressed with the technique. The cool summer slowed fruit set and harvest.
Cultivar	Yield	Buy again?(%/yes)	Comments
'Bulgarian Carrot'	Peppers unlike jalapenos Poor texture and flavor	29%	Carrot like fruit. Hottest of trial. Ripened 10 days earlier than others.
'Fooled You'	18 fruit/plant. Mild-no heat, 3.25" fruit	61%	Red ripe fruit at 80 days 97% germination
'Garden Salsa'	94% germination. Mild, 6.3" fruit.	100%	Mild heat
'Goliath'	3.25" wide/blocky of average heat	78%
'Mucho Nacho'	96% germination. Best flavored and textured 3.5" fruit.	94%	Ripened in 89 days
'Tam M'	Over 32 3" fruits per plant	33%	Ripened about 9/25, if at all
Hybrid Ice-Box Watermelons
It was a rough year year for watermelons. Although the testers were told to plant these outdoor, some started them inside. All were planted outside, on average, around June 7, with 4 seeds per cultivar planted. Few gardeners felt they harvested completely ripe fruit.
Cultivar	Yield	Buy again?(%/yes)	Comments
'Festival'	Poor germination. Lowest yield--2/plant	67%	Best flavor. Largest fruit. Longest wait 114 days to harvest. Darkest fruit color
'Golden Crown'	78% germination, 9" round fruit, 5/plant	33%	Pink fruit, golden skin
'Glory Sugar'	11" fruit, 3.67 fruit/plant	50%	Medium pink flesh, dark green skin
'Jade Star'	10" round 2 per plant	67%	Dark green fruit w/pink flesh.
'Sweet Beauty'	77% germination, oblong fruit.	83%
'Tiger Baby'	8" fruit, least flavor	50%	Earliest to ripen, 92 days
Red Plume Celosia
These celosia were started from seed, on average, the end of March. At least 3 plants of each of each cultivar were planted outdoors, on average, around June5th. Seedlings seemed to be bothered by damping off. Otherwise, once they started blooming, in early July, they had few problems
Cultivar	Yield	Buy again?(%/yes)	Comments
'Century Red'	14" tall Wide blooms, Long stems	73%	Dark red leaves
'Fresh Look Red'	12" tall Largest blooms	75%	Bright green leaves
'Glow Red'	7.5" tall Smallest blooms, lightest red	61%	Lowest germination-59%, green leaves
'Kimono Red'	9" tall. Died before frost. Fewest blooms	42%	Earliest blooms Red leaves
'New Look'	13" tall	87%	80% germination Purple leaves
'Sparkler Wine'	15" tall Short, 2" blooms Good cut flower	65%	Spindly plants Took longest to bloom

'Queeny Purple' hollyhock Photos: All American Selections

Master Gardeners throughout Minnesota were offered the option to grow one of four current All-America Selection winners as well. They were asked to compare the selection to a similar variety of their choice. Here's what they thought:

'Fresh Look Yellow' celosia was a favorite, with eighty-nine percent liking it well enough to purchase again. Eighty-three percent preferred this yellow celosia to their comparison variety, which included Sparkler yellow and Castle Yellow, and 89% liked the color better. Two growers indicated that they don't care for yellow celosia, but several commented that the plants were sturdy and seemingly reliable.

'Sunshine' squash was compared to several different squash, including buttercup, acorn, and butternut types. The large quantity of fruit (90% said Sunshine produced more fruit than their comparison) may have contributed to the 85% who said they would purchase this squash again. But only 67% felt that Sunshine was a better squash overall, and 78% liked the flavor better. Many growers had difficulty with germination of all their squash seed and contributed the problems to the necessity of planting in cold, wet, soil.

'Gypsy Deep Rose' gypsophila was extremely well-liked by those who succeeded in growing plants - 100% would purchase it again, and felt it was a better overall baby's breath to the comparison plants. However, germination was a problem for many. The successful growers enjoyed the brighter pink color and low, compact plants, although they felt that a lot of plants were needed to make a good showing in the garden.

'Queeny Purple' hollyhock was very well liked by many of the growers. Although only 86% will purchase it again, those who grew it successfully spoke of it in glowing terms. The shorter (36") plants were uniform and held up better to wind and rain than the comparison varieties. Plants were slow to bloom in some areas, but those who experienced the vibrant purple blooms were smitten.

Pruning Time!
Janna Beckerman, Extension Plant Pathologist

Improperly pruned lilac. Photo credit: Beth Jarvis

In Minnesota, March usually falls late in the dormant season, and is the best time to prune both shade and fruit trees. When properly performed, dormant pruning produces vigorous, new growth and allows you to avoid some of the most serious diseases of shade trees, namely Dutch elm disease of elms, oak wilt of red and white oaks, and fire blight of crabapples. In addition to shade trees, dormant pruning of fruit trees minimizes the possibility of fire blight in apples and pears, and Nectria canker and black knot of cherries and plums. With fruit trees, it is important to remember to prune just before the buds swell. With pruning the home orchard, the key is to start spring pruning early enough so you've finished before the leaves appear. It's important to note that pruning too early increases the risk of winter injury, and that the amount of injury is directly related to the length of time between pruning and temperature drop. By pruning in late winter, you reduce the likelihood of extreme temperature drop, thereby reducing the risk of winter injury.

'Do not prune in April, May or June.'
March is an ideal time to prune because the insects that spread diseases like oak wilt or Dutch elm disease are not active. Depending on weather conditions, pruning for oaks should not be performed from April through June, and elms should not be pruned from April through November. Another exception to dormant pruning are the "bleeders": Birches, maples, walnuts, yellowwoods, beeches and hornbeams are more prone to excessive sap flow and may benefit from a summer pruning instead. Sap flow is an unsightly, but normal response to injury by a healthy tree, and should not be cause for alarm. The tree sap or pitch consists of gums and resins, and are the natural means by which trees prevent infection by disease causing agents. Wound dressings may actually interfere with sap flow, and prevent the oxidation of the wound, interfering with the tree's ability to compartmentalize the injury.

Although now is a great time to prune, don't feel obligated to pick up your pruners! In the absence of injury, most trees and shrubs develop a natural, characteristic silhouette, and look better if left alone. Before pruning, examine your tree or shrub carefully, and prune to maintain the plant's natural form.
 
The University of Minnesota Extension Publication "Pruning Trees and Shrubs" has diagrams on what types of pruning cuts to make, and more information on when to make them. It is available at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG0628.html

Make Time for Houseplants Before Outdoor Gardening Season
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

Assorted houseplants

Pretty soon the siren's song of "lawns and gardens" will lure you outdoors into the spring air where, admittedly, there's plenty to be done. So these next few weeks may represent the last good opportunity to focus your green thumb exclusively on houseplants. Extra care now can help them sail through spring and summer, when you'll have less time to attend to their needs.

Days are growing noticeably longer. Most houseplants that depend on natural light rather than supplementary fluorescent lighting are beginning to respond favorably by producing more carbohydrates for root, stem and leaf growth. This makes it the perfect time for a late-winter tune-up.

By following this checklist your plants will be healthier and look better. And you'll be ready to tackle those outdoor gardening chores the minute you can – without feeling guilty about neglecting your houseplants!

Repotting:
Any houseplants that have put on a significant amount of growth, but haven't been repotted for a year or more should be moved into larger containers. Even though it's tempting, it would be a mistake to put each plant into a pot that's several inches bigger, just so you can wait longer before transplanting again. Choose containers that are only one size larger, so soil doesn't stay moist too long between waterings, and plants don't look lost compared to their surroundings.

If plants are rootbound, make several shallow vertical slices through the outer roots as you repot them. This encourages roots to branch and grow out into the new soil.

Be sure to use fresh potting soil and clean containers. Older pots can be disinfected easily for re-use. Scrub off all debris in hot, soapy water, then soak the pots for one-half hour in a bleach and water solution before rinsing them clean.

The formula: 9 parts barely warm water mixed with 1 part liquid chlorine bleach such as Hilex or Chlorox

If you'd like to minimize time spent watering your houseplants in the future, switch to "self-watering" or "sub-irrigation" containers when you repot. These containers feature large water reservoirs that allow moisture to wick gradually up into the soil as it's needed. It takes a little practice to figure out when to refill the reservoirs, but once you get the hang of it, you'll like the ease of using these pots. Don't put cacti or succulents in them, though – only plants that need more moist growing conditions.

Feeding Time:

Holiday cactus

Plants make their own food through photosynthesis, but when they're growing actively that food should be supplemented with minerals found in houseplant fertilizers. When you repot your plants there's no need to fertilize for six weeks or so. But if you don't need to repot, now is the time to resume a light program of fertilization.

As always, mix your fertilizer only 1/2 the label-recommended strength. Even so, be sure the soil still has some moisture in it when you fertilize; roots are more likely to burn if soil is bone dry or the plant is moisture-stressed. Using fish emulsion or other organic houseplant fertilizers will also reduce the likelihood of burning, but that's because organic fertilizers decompose slowly in the soil before becoming available to plant roots.

Continue fertilizing every three or four weeks while plants grow actively, then slow down again in fall as days become shorter and plant growth lessens. To save having to fertilize repeatedly over the spring and summer you could mix some slow release fertilizer pellets into the top of the soil. Then, whenever you water the soil, a small amount of nutrients will be released.

How to read a fertilizer label: 5-1-2 means 5 parts nitrogen to 1 part phosphorus and 2 parts potassium. Leafy houseplants need more nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium.

Beauty Treatment:

Clivia's leaves can be washed. Photo credits: Beth Jarvis

If your home has forced-air heat, every surface that hasn't been wiped clean recently will be coated with a fine layer of dust – including living foliage. Wash all but fuzzy-leaved plants now, so they look fresh and clean. The best beauty treatment is lukewarm water with a few drops of mild dishwashing liquid to make it slippery. It not only leaves foliage looking clean, it removes any insect eggs or debris that might cling to the plant and cause future problems.

You can fill a deep sink or laundry tub with water, then swish smaller plants through it by holding them upside down. (Cover the soil with tin foil or plastic wrap so it doesn't fall into the water.)

Larger plants must be handled differently. If they have big leaves, such as rubber trees or dieffenbachias, wash the leaves individually with a soft cloth, paying special attention to the undersides and where they're attached to the stems. Large plants with lots of small leaves – weeping figs, for instance – need to go into the shower. Don't forget to cover the soil, though.

Leaf shine products are usually not a good idea. Even "natural" products such as milk, or mayonnaise (both used to shine houseplant leaves) leave a surface that seems to attract more dust and dirt. Too much shine also reflects light and interferes with its penetrating the leaf for photosynthesis. And frankly, it leaves the foliage looking unnaturally shiny.

Tip for cleaning fuzzy leaves such as African violets: Remove an old leaf and use it to gently brush the other leaves.

Trim off any stretched out, straggly growth. It will be replaced quickly now that days are longer. Then sit back and enjoy your indoor plants – they're looking good!

Protect Your Clothes From Fabric-Eating Insects
Jeffrey Hahn, Assist. Extension Entomologist

Webbing clothes moths

Black carpet beetles Photos: USDA

As we anticipate the arrival of spring, we start to change out our winter clothes for summer ones. It is important to take a few steps to safeguard your clothes from fabric-feeding insects. Your clothes are more susceptible to insect damage during the summer when they are in storage.

The usual suspects include several species of carpet beetles and two kinds of clothes moths. They feed on all types of animal fibers including wool, fur, feathers, and hair. Only the larvae feed on these products; adult carpet beetles feed on pollen while clothes moths don't feed at all. Carpet beetles and clothes moths are not interested in cotton or synthetic materials, such as rayon.

Before you store your clothes be sure that all garments are clean. Clothes that are soiled, e.g. by food or perspiration, are much more likely to be attacked by these pests. Be sure that susceptible clothes are laundered or taken to the dry cleaners. This reduces the attraction of the clothes but also kills any eggs or insects that are on them.

You also want to be sure you properly store your susceptible garments. It's best that they're stored in airtight containers, such as wood chests or sweater boxes. You can use moth balls or flakes containing napthalene for added protection. Be careful as the smell of mothballs can be difficult to remove from clothing next spring. If that is a problem, try dry cleaning them to help remove the odor.

Cedar chips are sometimes used to repel insects. However, they aren't very effective in keeping insects away. Cedar chests are also popular but they work because the top fits tightly not because of what is made of. Cedar can be a mild repellent when the wood is fresh. After it has dried, it has little or no effect on insects.

Good housekeeping is also important. Vacuum regularly, especially around baseboards, floor cracks, carpets, rugs, registers and ducts. This removes lint which can be a food source for fabric-feeding insects. Also remove or properly store any leftover pieces of wool, fur, or similar material.

Get the low down on this month's insect pests at Insects http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/EntWeb/Ent.htm

Editorial Notes

Amaryllis Photo credit: Beth Jarvis

If you haven't brought your amaryllis out of dormancy, you could start thinking about it soon.

In upcoming issues, we'll visit the SW Research and Outreach Center in Lamberton. Terry Nennich, Regional Extension Educator, Horticulture, will share some of his ideas for getting a jump on spring with row covers. Terry's home-based out of Bagley so he knows about short growing seasons!

Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.

Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/. Deb Brown answers gardening questions on Minnesota Public Radio's (MPR) "Midmorning" program on the first Thursday of every month at 10 a.m. The program is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations. (Scroll down for map.)

For plant and insect questions, visit http://www.extension.umn.edu/askmg. Thousands of questions have been answered, so try the search option in the black bar at the top left of the board for the fastest answer.

If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to: listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist or to unsubscribe, enter: unsub yglnewslist

Happy gardening!

Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator


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