Yard & Garden Line News
Volume 1 Number 4 June 1, 1999
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Gypsum and Lime
Jill Mackenzie, Extension Educator, Wright Co.
and
Carl Rosen, Professor and Extension Soil Scientist
Many garden centers carry gypsum and lime as soil amendments. Many
gardening books and magazines recommend using these amendments
in a variety of situations. And many gardeners buy gypsum or lime and
spread it on their lawns and gardens. Some expect improved productivity of
vegetables, some think their lawns will perform better, and most will be
disappointed.
Gypsum is calcium sulfate. It is sometimes used on sodic or " salty "
clay soils in the arid southwestern United States. These soils contain
excess sodium. In a chemical process similar to what happens in a water
softener, the calcium from the gypsum displaces the sodium from the clay
particles, and the sodium washes through the soil profile with rain or
good quality irrigation water. That's great if you're trying to garden in
Arizona. Here in Minnesota, except for a few areas in the Red River
Valley,we don't have sodic soils, so there is no benefit from
incorporating gypsum. It will not change the texture or structure of our
clay soils, although it is often sold for that purpose. Gypsum is a good
source of calcium and sulfur and can be useful on sandy soils, where it
will supply these nutrients. With the exception of sandy soils, most soils
in Minnesota contain adequate calcium and sulfur to grow healthy plants.
Lime is calcium carbonate. It is used to raise the pH of acid soils.
This is a common practice in the eastern United States, where
soils are typically quite acidic. So it's common for gardening books
and magazines, many of which are published out east, to recommend
liming. Some parts of Minnesota have acid soil; in fact, some soils
here in Wright County have a pH as low as 5.2. But most lawns and gardens
in our area have neutral to basic (alkaline) soils. Adding lime to these
soils will not be beneficial and may even be harmful by making nutrients
such as iron less available.
How can you tell if your garden or lawn would benefit from the
addition of gypsum or lime to the soil? Only by having the soil tested.
There is no way to accurately estimate soil pH, and the amount of lime
necessary to correct acidic soils will vary. Similarly, you can't tell if
your soil has enough calcium or sulfur just by looking at it. So before
you buy a bag of lime or gypsum, find out if you really need it: have your
soil tested.
To receive instructions and a sample bag for using the University of
Minnesota's soil testing laboratory, call the Yard & Garden Line at (612) 624-4771 and choose 4 from the menu.
Putting the Hex on Poison Ivy
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist
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Poison ivy
Photo credit: Beth Jarvis
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The horticultural definition of a weed is " a plant out of place ".
While most people abhor creeping charlie in their lawns, some
appreciate it as a tough, effective shade-tolerant ground cover.
Similarly, most people try to rid their lawns of dandelions,
while at the same time others harvest its golden flowers for home
made wine and its leaves for salad greens. Children love to blow
dandelion seeds away on the wind.
No such positive statements may be made about poison ivy.
Universally disliked by outdoors people all over, poison ivy is a
common pest in woods and meadows, by cabins, lakes, and even
suburban housing developments carved out of undisturbed areas.
In fact, poison ivy isn't particularly fussy about location; it's
equally happy in sun or shade as long as there's enough moisture.
In our climate it grows mostly as a short statured shrub or vine,
spreading by means of creeping rootstocks and from seeds that are
deposited in bird droppings.
Poison ivy's best known characteristic (other than the damage it
does when you accidentally come in contact with it) is leaflets
always arranged in groups of three. Unless you are positive
about a plant's identity, anything with leaflets grouped in
threes should be viewed with extreme caution!
Poison ivy leaves may be smooth or dull surfaced. They're all
somewhat oval-shaped, though the edges can be coarsely toothed or
lobed. (Don't let the lobes fool you into thinking it's poison
oak. Poison oak grows no further north than southern Missouri.)
The best way to eliminate poison ivy is to spray the foliage of
individual plants with a product specially formulated to kill
poison ivy or unwanted woody brush. Look for the active
ingredient " TRICLOPYR " on the label and read the entire label
carefully before buying or using the product.
Here are some guidelines for ridding your yard or cabin of poison
ivy:
- Treat poison ivy leaves when they're fully expanded, but not in autumn once they show fall color.
- Temperatures ranging from the high 60's to 85 degrees, maximum, are ideal for spraying brush-killers.
- Wait for a calm day, or spray early in the morning when wind is minimal, to avoid chemical drift and damage on other desirable plants nearby.
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Use brush-killer when weather is forecast to remain dry for a couple days, to avoid washing it into the soil.
- Check plants several times over the summer; those with large root systems may re-sprout and require repeat spray.
Be very careful cutting down poison ivy to remove it. Toxic
resins are present that can be dangerous even after it's been
killed. Wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt and work gloves
for protection. Bury the debris where it can decompose without
interference or seal it in trash bags to be hauled away.
Never burn poison ivy; you can suffer skin or lung injury from the resulting smoke and ash.
Try Your Hand at Mini-Roses
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist
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Absolutely ™ mini-rose
Photo credit: Nor'East Miniature Roses, Inc.
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Have you considered growing miniature roses? Dozens of truly
delightful varieties are available for use in the garden and as
houseplants, indoors. They'll also perform well in containers on
a sunny deck or balcony if you remember to keep up with the
watering.
Most mini-roses reach a height of 12 to 18 inches; some just grow
5 to 8 inches tall. Their tiny blossoms, available in a rainbow
of colors, are lovely in small vases or corsages.
Despite their delicate appearance, miniature roses are not
particularly fragile. In fact, their needs are virtually
identical to those of the more familiar hybrid tea roses. Like
their larger relatives, they do best when watered and fertilized
regularly throughout the growing season. Of course, if they're
planted in small containers, they'll need more frequent watering.
Mini-roses aren't winter hardy here, but because of their size,
it's quite easy to protect them outdoors by mounding soil and
straw over them or digging a hole and burying them. Indoors,
they need to spend the winter in a cool, bright, sunny window or
under supplementary lighting.
Outdoors, these roses can fall prey to the same pests and
diseases as other roses. Indoors, be on the alert for spider
mites. Increasing humidity during the heating season should help
stave off mite infestations.
Wet Weather Means a Slow Start Gardening
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist
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Planting
Photo credit: Minnesota Extension Service
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Have you gotten off to a slow start on your garden because the
soil has been too wet and gooey to work in? Take heart; it's not
too late to seed some flowers and veggies directly into the soil
or to plant young seedlings from your local nursery or garden
center.
Dwarf zinnias and marigolds, bachelor's buttons, bush beans
(green or wax), sweet corn, and carrots will grow fast enough in
a sunny garden that you can plant seeds in the Twin Cities area
any time in June and still be assured of good results. Do check
seed packets for information on how many days each takes till
maturity, then choose varieties with shorter requirements.
Sturdy young eggplants, peppers, tomatoes and herb plants should
also take off rapidly after planting, now that both air and soil
temperatures have warmed. Plant geraniums, impatiens, gerbera
daisies and pots of flowering annuals any time this summer to
fill in bare spots and add color to your landscape.
If you haven't planted tomatoes yet, look for early to mid-season
varieties that typically ripen in sixty days or so. It may not
worth your while to plant the late maturing varieties that take
eighty to ninety days. If, as predicted, we have a cool summer,
you could end up with fried green tomatoes and enough tomato
chutney to last a lifetime!
Why Are My Leaves Dropping?
Chad Behrendt, Extension Plant Pathologist
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Anthracnose on branch
Photo: R. Blanchett
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Anthracnose on leaves
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Squirrel browse |
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Oak environmental
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Photos: Chad Behrendt
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Over the last couple of weeks, the Yard and Garden Clinic has received numerous calls
relating to leaf drop. These inqueries have come from all over the state, with the greatest number
from the metro area and southern Minnesota. Many different tree species have been involved
including ash, elm, hackberry, linden, and oak.
Multiple factors cause leaf drop, and it can be difficult to determine the exact nature of the
problem. However, knowing the common problems associated with a particular host and their
symptoms can make diagnosis easier. Based on samples submitted to the Clinic, leaf drop this
spring has been cause by: anthracnose, squirrel damage, and environmental
problems.
Anthracnose, a very common springtime disease (as discussed in previous articles) infects
a number of shade trees including ash, oak and maple. Ash and oak suffer the greatest damage. This
disease begins in the lower canopy of the tree and progresses upward. Typical symptoms include
brown, necrotic spotting, blotching, and curling of the leaf margins. New leaves can be severely
infected and drop from the tree, while older, mature leaves are more resistant and sustain less
damage. As a result of the frequent rainfall the last few weeks, anthracnose has been active.
Positive identification of anthracnose on ash and oak was made by the Clinic this spring.
Symptoms of ash plant bug feeding are also present on ash trees. Feeding damage typically appears as small yellow to light green stippling (spots) on the leaf tissue. Although ash plant bug feeding is not considered damaging to the tree, high numbers of insects may contribute to overall stress that predisposes the tree to other problems.
Squirrel damage can occur on a variety of shade trees. Clumps or clusters of leaves still attached to twigs or stems are found on the ground. This is such classic squirrel damage that you may rule out disease or environmental factors.
Recently, we have observed squirrel damage on oak, hackberry and elm.
A variety of environmental factors such as chilling injury (frost), winter injury (rapid
temperature change), and strong winds (desiccation) may cause damage to the leaves of shade trees. This damage may appear as a reduction in bud break, growth, and leaf expansion. It may
also appear as a browning of the leaf margins and interveinal tissue.
Recently, Clinic staff observed and identified environmental damage on ash, hackberry,
and oak trees from central and southern Minnesota. Although we are uncertain which
environmental factor caused the problem, it appears that most of the damage is related to chilling
injury. Temperatures below freezing were recorded as the young leaves were emerging.
A second possibility is desiccation of the young leaves by strong, drying winds. Damage
caused by these factors will typically occur throughout the entire canopy of the tree. For
example, oak leaves with browning or blackening margins, curling edges, interveinal browning,
and shriveling were observed throughout the canopy on many trees. Although these symptoms
mimic anthracnose, the problem has been diagnosed as environmental injury. Characteristics of
environmental injury include browning and blackening of leaf margins, interveinal necrosis, and
distribution of the problem throughout the entire tree. In contrast, anthracnose lesions (spotting
and blotching) would not be confined to interveinal tissue, but would be confined to the lower
canopy early in the season.
Regardless of the problem or combination of problems, the only recommended
management practice for this year is to increase tree vigor through cultural practices. These
practices include mulching trees with wood chips, making certain to keep them pulled away from
the trunk, and watering trees suffering from drought stress. It is important to monitor soil
moisture, so trees are not over watered.
No chemicals are effective against anthracnose at this stage of infection. Therefore,
fungicides are not recommended. Typically fungicides are recommended for trees that have been
severely defoliated 3 out of 5 years or for young trees with significant leaf loss. Although
fungicide application is not recommended for one year of defoliation, severely stressed and
declining trees may benefit from a protective spray next year. Spraying will not do any good
without additional cultural practices such as raking leaves in the fall, pruning out all dead and/or
dying branches, and increasing tree vigor.
The key is to be patient and observant. Continue to watch for symptoms of disease and
continue to monitor the health of the tree. Most trees should put out new growth to help
compensate for the leaves they lost.
Rain, Rain, Go Away!
Chad Behrendt, Extension Plant Pathologist
Rotting Roots
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Columbine root rot
Photos: Chad Behrendt |
Recent rains have caused many soils to become saturated. As a result, many plants have
been infected by root rotting fungi. These soil borne fungi remain inactive for long periods as
specialized structures called resting spores. They are stimulated by cool, wet conditions.
Two plant samples, rhododendron and columbine, were recently submitted to the Yard
and Garden Clinic. Root rot was found on both. Symptoms associated with these plants
included wilting or drought like symptoms, marginal discoloration or browning, yellowing of the
lower leaves, dieback, stunting, and/or eventual death of the plant. In addition, the roots
appeared brown and soft.
Controlling root rot fungi is very difficult, since these pathogens live in the soil. In
addition, soil drench fungicides, available to homeowners, are not effective against all root rot
fungi. Therefore, management strategies must focus on reducing soil moisture. Practices that
increase soil drainage, along with proper watering practices, should help reduce disease severity.
Finally, try to rotate crops and avoid planting the same crop in the same location next year.
White Grass
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Powdery Mildew
Photo credit:
Chad Behrendt |
Powdery mildew on turf grass is another disease promoted by the recent rainfall. This
disease, cosmetic in nature, can be aesthetically displeasing to homeowners. Symptoms typically
appear as a dusty white to gray coating of the leaves of grass plants. Under severe conditions the
fungus can cause a yellowing of the grass blades and thinning of the turf.
Powdery mildew is most frequently observed during the spring and fall when conditions
are cool and moist. Powdery mildew is also associated with heavily shaded areas and poor air
circulation.
No chemicals are recommended for control of powdery mildew. Cultural practices that
include selective pruning of dense shade trees, proper fertilization, and planting of shade tolerant
grass varieties will help control this disease. Planting resistant grass varieties during reseeding or
planting can also help reduce future problems.
Ascochyta Stem Rot of Clematis
Chad Behrendt, Extension Plant Pathologist
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Clematis
Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis |
Ascochyta is a fungal disease that causes lesions to form at the base of
healthy clematis stems. These lesions expand and girdle the stem causing wilting of individual
shoots, rotting of stems, and plant death. Ascochyta fungi produce spores in the spring and early
summer during rainy periods.
Determining the cause of death can be difficult because the fungus infects and reproduces in the stem near the ground.
Control measures should include removing and destroying infected stems and increasing
ventilation. Fungicides are also available for severe infections.
Using Manure in the Home Garden
Carl Rosen, Extension Soil Scientist, Department of Soil, Water, and Climate
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Vegetable garden at Arboretum
Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis |
Manure is a valuable soil amendment for home gardens. It not only supplies macro and micronutrients for plant growth, but also is a source of organic matter. Increasing soil organic matter improves soil tilth, increases the water holding capacity of sandy soils, improves drainage in clay soils, provides a source of slow release nutrients, and promotes growth of earthworms and other beneficial soil organisms.
Proper use of manure will ensure that your plants will be supplied with adequate nutrients and that your soil tilth will improve. Too low a rate of applied manure can lead to nutrient deficiency and poor plant growth. On the other hand, too high a rate can lead to nitrate leaching, nutrient runoff, excessive vegetative growth and, for some manures, salt damage. It is important to understand that manure characteristics can vary greatly with animal, bedding, storage, and processing. Because of this variation, the recommended rates provided in this report should be considered as very general.
Fresh manure: Characteristics of fresh manure include high amounts of ammonium or soluble nitrogen resulting in a higher available nitrogen content compared to composted manure. Salts in fresh manure also tend to be high - especially in poultry/turkey manure. Fresh manure may contain high amounts of viable weed seeds, which can lead to a weed problem. Because of the high amounts of ammonia-nitrogen in fresh manure, it should be incorporated 6 to 8 inches within 12 hours after application. Without incorporation much of the soluble nitrogen will be lost to the atmosphere as ammonia. To avoid salt damage, seeding operations should not be done until 3 to 4 weeks after application. Type of bedding or litter will usually decrease manure nutrient content by dilution. If straw or sawdust is used, nitrogen availability may be lowered by increasing the C/N ratio. High carbon relative to nitrogen (greater than 25 /1) will tie up nitrogen.
Composted manure: Composting manure will lower the amount of soluble nitrogen forms by stabilizing the nitrogen in larger organic humus like compounds. Some of the ammonium-nitrogen will be lost as a gas during composting. Heat generated during the composting process will kill most weed seeds. Composted manure has lower availability of nitrogen and will contribute more to the organic matter content of the soil compared to fresh manure. Unless applied at high rates, composted manure alone may not be able to supply all the nutrients for fast growing plants. Since soluble nitrogen is not high in composted manure, immediate incorporation is not critical; however, to obtain full benefit from the compost, incorporation to a depth of 6 to 8 inches is recommended whenever possible.
Nutrient availability: The analysis of manure or compost provides total nutrient content; however, availability of the nutrients from the manure for plant growth will depend on the breakdown and release from of the organic components. Generally, 70 to 80% of the phosphorus and 80 to 90% of the potassium will be available from manure the first year after application. Calculating nitrogen availability is more complex than for phosphorus and potassium. Most of the nitrogen in manure is in the organic form. This form is considered unavailable for uptake until it is broken down to soluble forms by microorganisms. A smaller fraction of the nitrogen in manure is in the ammonium/ammonia form and is considered immediately available for plant growth. In most cases, manure application is based on its nitrogen content and estimated availability for the first growing season - see table below. It should be remembered that some manure contains high levels of phosphorus, so while plant nitrogen demands are met, soil levels of phosphorus may be building up. Use of soil tests will help in determining the level of phosphorus in the soil as well as the need for further applications.
Suggested rates of manure or compost to apply on a fresh weight basis to supply about 0.2 lb of available nitrogen per 100 square feet.
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Manure type |
Rate to apply per 100 square ft. - lbs |
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Dairy, no bedding |
75 |
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Dairy, with bedding |
90 |
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Sheep, no bedding |
40 |
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Sheep, with bedding |
50 |
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Poultry, no litter |
20 |
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Poultry, with bedding |
30 |
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Horse, with bedding |
65 |
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Poultry compost |
70 |
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Dairy compost |
200 |
Note: one 5 gallon bucket holds about 25 lbs of fresh manure or compost.
Erineum Gall on Linden
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
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Erineum gall
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Cream colored, velvet-like growths on the underside of leaves have been common on
linden (basswood) this spring. This is a type of erineum gall similar to galls found on
maple and viburnum. On maple and viburnum, these galls are initially a cream or
yellowish color, later turning red. It is not clear whether this will also occur on linden
and basswood.
When looking at the galls from the top surface, the growths can look like leafminer
feeding, although close examination shows the problem is on the outside of the leaf
and not inside of it. Sometimes this gall may be mistaken for a plant disease.
However, these growths are typical of eriophyid mite galls not of a disease. Erineum
galls have little impact on tree health. There is no control once galls are seen
Fourlined Plant Bug
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
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Fourline Plant Bug
Photo credit:
Jeff Hahn |
We haven't heard any reports about fourlined plant bugs yet but we expect that they
are out in southern Minnesota and should be hatching soon in central Minnesota.
These bugs love to feed on all types of plants, especially perennials. They are
commonly found on chrysanthemums, Chinese lanterns, mint, shasta daisy, dahlia,
aster, and basil.
When nymphs first hatch, they are red, later turning yellow and black. As adults, they
are 1/4 inch long and beetle-like with a greenish-yellow body and four black stripes.
Fourlined plant bugs are not always conspicuous on plants as they can move quickly
and often are on the underside of foliage.
As they feed, they produce round, tannish to black, sunken spots on the tops of leaves.
As feeding becomes heavier, leaf tips can wilt and curl. Leaf tissue may even dry and
fall out leaving holes in leaves. Even though their injury looks like a caterpillar or some
chewing insect, the plant damage is due to fourlined plant bugs. Fourlined plant bugs
feed for about a month and then are finished for the season.
Despite the injured leaves, fourlined plant bug feeding is usually cosmetic, just affecting
the plants' appearance. If your concern is only for the health of your plants, then you
can just ignore the plant bugs. If feeding is severe or you wish to protect the plants'
appearance, then early detection is important to minimize plant damage. As soon as
you see feeding on leaves in May or June, treat the plants.
Effective insecticides include acephate (Orthene), permethrin, chlorpyrifos, diazinon, or
malathion. Read the insecticide label to be sure that the plant you intend to spray is
listed. If it is not, do not treat any plants not listed by that product.
Ash Plant Bug
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
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Ash Plant Bug
Photo credit:
Jeff Hahn |
Ash plant bug feeding is becoming more obvious on ash leaves. Only nymphs have
been observed so far but adults should be out soon. Feeding by both nymphs and
adults causes a whitish or yellowish stippled discoloration on the top of the leaves. As
feeding becomes more severe, edges and tips can turn brown and curl. Ash plant bugs
have two generations and are present most of the summer. However, plant bug
feeding is more severe in the spring.
Sometimes, ash trees drop leaves in spring. Although it is possible for large numbers
of ash plant bugs to contribute to premature leaf fall, in most cases anthracnose, a
disease, or environmental conditions are responsible for fallen leaves. Spraying ash
plant bugs does not prevent ash trees from dropping leaves.
Fortunately ash plant bug feeding does not seriously injure ash and their control is not
necessary to protect tree health. In cases where you wish to protect the tree's
appearance, there are several insecticides available to the public to control ash plant
bugs. If you treat your tree, you can prevent new damage but the leaves already
discolored will remain that way for the summer.
Asparagus Beetle Damage
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
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Asparagus beetle feeding
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Asparagus beetle damage has been seen in some gardens. Asparagus beetles
become active in early May (in central Minnesota), about the time when asparagus is
first coming up. They feed on the tender shoots which can result in the spears
becoming distorted and bent over in what is called a shepherd's crook. Their feeding
can be very damaging. Although adults feed to the end of May, treatment is most
effective when applied in mid-May.
Control isn't warranted now. Larvae may be seen
feeding on foliage later in the year. However, they do little damage in the home garden
and insecticides are not necessary.
Masked Hunter
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
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Masked hunter nymph & adult
Photos: Jeff Hahn |
Masked hunters are a type of assassin bug. They are predaceous on other insects,
especially bed bugs. Adults are dark brown to black and elongate oval in shape. When
full grown, they're about 3/4 inch long. Immature masked hunters are similar but
smaller. Nymphs cover themselves with dust, lint, and other debris (which is where
they get their name). Masked hunters do not feed on human blood but they can bite to
protect themselves if they're handled carelessly.
In nearly all cases, no more than a few masked hunters are seen in a home; they
should be considered just a type of accidental invader. The best and easiest control is
to physically remove these insects with tissue paper or a broom and dust pan. In rare
cases when large, persistent numbers of masked hunters are found, this indicates that
a food source is available to them. Check for bed bugs or other insects. Controlling
their food source will reduce masked hunter numbers.
Carpenter Ant Swarms
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
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Winged reproductives
Photo credit:
U of Mn Entomology Dept.
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All ants produce new queens and males (i.e. reproductives) at some time during the
year. Although most ants (the workers) are wingless, new queens and males have
wings. These reproductives fly out (swarm) out of the nest together in large numbers.
Different species swarm at different times of the year. Carpenter ants typically swarm
between April and June with peak activity occurring in May.
If large numbers of carpenter ant swarmers are found in a home, that is a sign that
there is a nest in the building. It can also help determine the approximate location of
the nest. Where the swarmers are found is probably close to where the nest is located.
Finding the carpenter ant colony is important because the most effective, permanent
control is a direct treatment into their nest.
A home owner may also find some wingless queens in their home. They are easy to
identify because queens are much larger than workers. Finding one or a few wingless
queens is not an indication of a carpenter ant nest in the building. After new queens
first swarm, they fly off and disperse. Eventually, they land on the ground and tear off
their wings and start searching for a suitable site to begin a nest. Some queens at this
point wander into homes looking for a place to start a nest. But she does not have an
established nest in the home and is just considered a nuisance.
Giant Crab Spider
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
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Huntsman spider
Photo credit:
Jeff Hahn |
We received an interesting sample in the clinic recently. A person discovered a spider
associated with bananas. It was identified to the family Sparassidae, the giant crab
spiders. The species appeared to be a huntsman spider, Heteropoda venatoria. This
is a large spider. It has a one inch body and is the almost the size of a small hand with
the legs extended. This caused the home owner considerable distress but fortunately
she only had to deal with the one specimen. These are spiders are rarely found in
Minnesota. This is only the second specimen brought into the clinic in 15 years.
Hesperis matronalis, Desired Perennial or Weed?
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist
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Dame's rocket
Image credit:
Steve Drazkowski |
The Yard & Garden Clinic has received a number of " weed ID "
requests these past couple weeks for a flowering plant spotted
growing alongside roads and in clearings, as well as in tended
flower gardens. The plant, which is quite striking, stands about
18 to 40 inches tall, and has clusters of lilac, light purple,
or, more rarely, white flowers, sweetly scented, especially at
night. It grows well in full sun or light shade
Its botanic name is Hesperis matronalis; its common name is
Dame's Rocket, Dame's Violet, Sweet Rocket, or Rogue's
Gilliflower, and it's a member of the mustard (crucifer) family.
An old-fashioned perennial, this plant self-seeds very
successfully, to the point of escaping from gardens and becoming
weedy in some locations. To date, it is not considered a huge
problem, and it's NOT in the same league as purple loosestrife.
It can spread rapidly enough that you might think twice about
planting it in your garden, though.
Test your diagnostic savvy monthly with Disease Watch at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/Plpa.htm
Get the low down on this month's insect pests at Insects http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/Ent.htm
Editorial Notes
Thank you for reading this fourth issue of the Yard & Garden Line News. The back issues
are now on the newly revised Yard & Garden Line home page at
www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/. The new home page has clickable links to most of the
components of the Yard & Garden Line, such as Bell Museum of Natural History, INFO U and the Soil Testing Lab.
If you have gardening questions, please call the Yard & Garden Line at (612) 624-4771.
In upcoming issues, our guest authors will be writing about renovating strawberry and raspberry beds, Colorado potato beetles, using low maintenance grass mixes, care and maintenance of marginal hardy trees and shrubs, selecting the right root stock for apple trees, and the Minnesota Mum Project. Watch for them! If you have suggestions for
other topics, please let me know!
We publish the Yard & Garden Line News twice a month during the gardening season, on
the 1st of the month and the 15th of the month.
Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.
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Happy gardening!
Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator
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