Yard & Garden Line News Volume 2 Number 8                                                              June 1, 2000

Features this issue: Preventing Storm Damage to Trees – Are Your Trees a Hazard? Don't Collect Grass Clippings Sodding the Lawn Delightful (?) Dandelion Ants in Turf Fourlined Plant Bugs Forest Tent Caterpillar Nuisance June Beetles Black Flies End of European Pine Sawflies and Eastern Tent Caterpillars Powdery Mildew Prevent Black Spot on Rose Is it Anthracnose or is it Frost? Editorial Notes

Preventing Storm Damage to Trees – Are Your Trees a Hazard?
Patrick Weicherding, Extension Educator, Horticulture, Anoka County

Maple breaks up in ice storm. Photo credit: Beth Jarvis

Thousands of street and shade trees are lost every year to wind, ice and lightning. Estimates of property value loss in Minnesota from this type of tree damage can exceed $10 million annually. And, this estimate does not include the value of future liability claims.

Minnesota has numerous thunderstorm days each year, primarily in May and June. Each individual storm can cause extensive damage to trees in its path. Historic, rare and specimen trees, especially when landscapes are designed around them, are valuable. These trees can become major aesthetic, financial and social losses in storms.

So, how do you "stormproof" your trees? In reality, the phrase "stormproofing trees" is an oxymoron. Trees have survived for thousands of years on this planet by falling apart at certain wind speeds. Just like Indianapolis racecars, they break apart at certain impact forces because they are made to peel away to increase driver survivability.

Trees survive because they have dormant growing or meristematic points. They resprout epicormic shoots, which are very poorly attached and prone to future damage. But the point is trees have a back-up system to put on another set of photosynthetic producing organisms, called leaves. Trees do not care whether their limbs fall off and hurt someone or destroy property. Trees have a survival mechanism for dealing with storms plain and simple. Their hormonal communication system relays messages to get the leaves back on and focus on living. So, philosophically, the problem is not with the tree. The problem is with the people who want to sue when limbs fall and land on things and people.

Tree staked too tightly. Photo credit: Beth Jarvis

There seems to be an ongoing argument regarding this problem. However, I believe we cannot plan for disasters by stormproofing trees. Natural disasters always come with wind speeds that produce tree-damaging forces. And, it's ridiculous to expect trees to be safe and not damage property or cause harm to people during historic, catastrophic weather events.

I am also a firm believer that man, not the weather gods, goddesses or demons, most often create the factors responsible for predisposing trees to storm damage. Communities and individual property owners allow the structural condition of their trees to be dictated by the last, most severe storm that occurred. And, in most cases following a storm, homeowners apply incorrect and improper arboricultural and horticultural practices to correct the problem. This only makes matters worse during the next inclement weather event.

That being said, what are some things that you can do to minimize storm damage to trees and prevent them from becoming a hazard?

· Let trees adjust to the wind environment. Tight staking and guying from the time of planting holds a tree in place while preventing internal adjustment to wind loading (wind loading is a straight wind from one direction applied evenly over the stem, branches and tree foliage). Always stake and tie the tree loosely where the stem can move and bend in the wind. Keep the ties in place for no more than one growing season to ensure a well-established root system. During the growing season continue to loosen and eventually release the ties. The support stakes can be left in place to protect the stem from mechanical damage if that is a potential problem. After the first growing season, remove the tree support. The tree will continue to grow and adjust to its new environment.

· Practice proper pruning techniques by cutting branches before they become larger than one inch in diameter. The branch collar should not be damaged. The branch collar is part of the stem and, if damaged by poor pruning, provides an avenue of attack into the main stem for pests and diseases. Proper pruning minimizes a number of structural problems that occur in association with new wood growth around a pruned branch.

· Eliminate co-dominant branches. Prune forked branches and branches that arise opposite each other on the stem early in the life of the tree. Cut one side off now to prevent losing the whole tree later if it splits in a storm. In trees with opposite branching patterns, such as ash or maple, proper branch training is essential for a long-lived, storm-resistant tree.

An abused tree. Photo credit: Beth Jarvis

· Keep trees as healthy as possible with timely watering and proper fertilization. Healthy, vigorous trees adjust more quickly to changes in the environment, are more wind firm and react more effectively to storm damage. Base your fertilization on soil test results not general recommendations for fertilizing trees and shrubs.

· Do not over-fertilize the tree with nitrogen or over-water on heavy, clay soils. These practices can increase the crown surface area and/or decrease the rooting area. This type of growth on trees makes them more susceptible to storm damage.

· Eliminate lop-sided crowns. Prune branches to produce a reasonably symmetrical crown. If more than 70 percent of the crown is on one side of a mature tree, consider tree removal and replacement. Consider guying and bracing only as a last resort if the tree has to be saved in spite of itself.

· Remove or treat pest problems, like branch cankers, to minimize potential damage. Do not over-treat tree cavities. Do not remove decayed wood from these areas unless it falls away in your hands. Cleaning cavities can lead to further damage. Cover the openings to cavities with 1/4" hardware cloth to allow the tree to grow over the opening and prevent animals from expanding them. Larger holes may be filled with crumpled chicken wire or window screen to discourage animals.

· Keep the tree growing upright with one main stem. Prune away branches that compete in height with the main stem. Eliminate branches with acute or narrow crotches.

· Continue to promote wind firmness by not over-crowding trees. A tree must always be able to move in the wind. On wooded lots remove trees over a number of years rather than all at once to allow wind firmness to develop in the remaining trees.

· Consider installing lightning protection systems in historic, rare or specimen trees. Consult a certified arborist or urban forester to insure adequate design and installation.

Take care of your trees and you can minimize potential storm damage. For more information, get a copy of "Storm Damage to Landscape Trees: Prediction, Prevention, Treatment," Extension Folder FO-7415-S by Gary and Ben Johnson from your local County Extension Office.

Don't Collect Grass Clippings
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

Classic reel mower. Photo credit: CRE

Mulching mower. Photo credit: Toro

Despite efforts to change people's minds, many folks still hold fast to the notion that you need to collect your clippings in order to have a nice lawn. Ample research has proven otherwise, however. In fact, allowing clippings to remain has been shown to improve most lawns and to reduce, by as much as one application per year, their need for fertilizer.

People often associate clippings with a build-up of thatch in the soil. While it's true that excess thatch leaves the lawn more vulnerable to a number of patch diseases, it is not the case that clippings contribute to the thatch layer.

Grass clippings decompose readily, whereas thatch is made from wiry stems and roots of dead grass plants that are very slow and difficult to break down. That's why thatch control is generally accomplished by removing it mechanically, via power raking, or by aerating to bring up plugs of soil that introduce soil-inhabiting micro-organisms to help decompose it.

The key to letting clippings fall back to the ground without damaging the lawn is mowing often enough so clippings are no more than an inch or so long. Never remove more than 1/3rd of the length of the grass when you mow. Be sure, too, that the clippings are spread throughout the lawn, not piled in thick rows that can smother the grass.

Modern mulching mowers chip up clippings into small pieces and spew them out over a broad area rather than laying them down in thick rows. This is very handy, but not strictly necessary as long as your mower distributes the clippings over a wide area, and you mow often enough. Old-fashioned push mowers work perfectly well, too.... as long as those clippings are small enough.

Sodding the Lawn
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

It's too late in spring to expect a good outcome from seeding large areas of the lawn, at least in the southern 2/3rds of the state. And it's been so dry in northern Minnesota, that seeding large areas there probably isn't a good idea, either. Because of this, and the desire for nearly instant lawns, people are turning to sod this time of year.

The biggest mistake people make in sodding their lawns is failing to prepare the soil adequately. Results will be best, particularly over the long haul, when soil is prepared for sodding the same way it is for seeding. It's your one chance to get the job done right. Once sod is in place, any opportunity to improve the soil significantly is gone for good.

Soil must be worked up, fertilizer containing both phosphorous and potassium added (if they are indicated by a soil test), and the whole thing leveled and raked smooth. Nitrogen can be raked into the surface or added after sod is laid; it's the only one of the three major plant nutrients that dissolves readily in water, moving easily into the root zone.

Don't add two inches of black dirt or top soil to the surface like frosting on a cake. If it's necessary to bring in good soil, rototill it into the upper part of the existing soil. This is particularly important if your soil is sandy.

Water newly laid sod regularly, as often as two or three times daily if it's really hot or windy. As it roots down into the soil, gradually reduce the frequency of watering but begin to water more heavily. Eventually you'll be able to water thoroughly once a week, maybe twice on sandy soil.

Mow the sod as if it were established grass; just don't cut it too short. Grass that is maintained a little to the tall side (3 inches or so in summer) grows deeper roots and will be less prone to disease problems.

Delightful (?) Dandelion
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

Dandelions. Photo credit: Deb Brown

Now that we're over the worst of the "yellow plague," here are some delightful dandelion details to mull over:

* Dandelions were brought to this country by southern European immigrants who prized the leaves as potherbs and salad greens. They're pretty bitter tasting, though; the younger and smaller they are, the more palatable.

* Dandelion flower heads open in the morning and close at night.

* Each yellow "petal" is a complete flower with a seed that develops at its base and an exquisitely designed "parachute" to distribute it on the breeze.

* Each dandelion flower contains 50 or more "petals" and seeds.

* The best time to get rid of dandelions is September! If you kill most of them in autumn, they won't survive the winter to bloom the next spring. It's always possible that some will sprout from seed, but they'll be smaller and easier to dig (or spray and eliminate).

* If you have lots of dandelions now, you can spray in spring. Just be sure to mark your calendar around mid-September so you remember to tackle them again in fall.

* Dig dandelions out after a soaking rain, any time of year, if you've got the energy to do it. Try to get most of the root, so it doesn't resprout.

What to use: Dandelions are quite sensitive to 2,4-D, a common ingredient in most broad-leaf weed-killers formulated for home use. Their leaves usually start to twist and curl within two or three days of spraying.

When to spray: Choose a day when winds are calm and temperatures are not expected to exceed the high 70's or low 80's. Look for a time when no rain is expected for at least 24 hours; preferably 48.

How to do it: Spray according to label directions; never mix weed-killer any stronger than the label recommends. You can "burn" the topgrowth without the product ever reaching the roots where it's needed to do a good job.

Finally, and this is an important point: Dandelions are most prevalent where lawns are thin. Concentrate not just on weed killing, but on fertilizing, watering and mowing regularly to help keep grass thick and healthy.

Ants in Turf
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

Cornfield ant nests. Photo credit:  Jeff Hahn

Closeup of field ant nest. Photo credit:  Jeff Hahn

Cornfield ants are commonly found in lawns. They construct a small mound that is found in exposed sites in the soil as well in the cracks of sidewalks, patio bricks, driveways etc. Many mounds may be present in a lawn. Cornfield ant nests are found especially in places where the grass is thinning or bare. Their appearance can be unsightly in lawns but despite the circumstantial evidence, these ants are not harming the turf; they are just taking advantage of favorable nesting sites that already exist.

It is not practical to control cornfield ants in a lawn. Residents should tolerate nests they find. If any control is attempted, only try to eliminate ants from small areas in the lawn where they are most conspicuous. Even if control is successful, another nest may move back into the area later. Residents should try to encourage grass to grow in bare and thinning areas. It may help discourage ants from establishing nests as well as make nests less visible. Also, do not worry about cornfield ant mounds found in gardens. The ants do not harm garden plants and their nests should be ignored.

Field ants may also be found in lawns. Workers are up to a 1/4 inch in size and may be black or black and red. They construct a crater-like nest that is a foot wide or larger. Also called thatching ants, many workers are active on the outside of the nest. Field ants do not need bare areas to establish their nest; their nests are frequently found where grass is growing normally. Fortunately, field ants are not as commonly found in lawns as cornfields ant but they are much more of a nuisance when they are discovered. They can make lawns unsightly and bumpy to mow.

If it is necessary to attempt to control an ant nest in the lawn, first try pouring soapy water into the nest. Just mix any type of soap (e.g. laundry, dish soap) with water so it is sudsy. You may need to treat nests more than once. If this does not work, try an insecticide. Active ingredients that work are acephate (Orthene), carbaryl (Sevin), chlorpyrifos (Dursban), and diazinon. Some of these products may be purchased as a liquid or in granules. The product should be labeled for turf or ground application.

Fourlined Plant Bugs
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

Fourline plant bug and feeding damage. Photo credits: Jeff Hahn

Fourlined plant bug nymphs have been recently reported in the Twin Cities. Nymphs are bright red with black wing pads while adults are greenish yellow with four black stripes. Both nymphs and adults commonly feed on many types of perennials, including chrysanthemum, mint, Chinese lantern, liatris, basil and shasta daisy. They may also feed on annuals, like geraniums, as well as vegetables, trees and shrubs.

Their feeding causes small, brown, circular, necrotic (sunken) areas. Damaged tissue may eventually dry up and fall out leaving a hole. Fourlined plant feeding rarely kills plants and treatment is usually applied to protect the appearance of plants. If control is necessary spray permethrin, acephate (Orthene), carbaryl (Sevin), diazinon, or malathion. Treat as soon as you see feeding to prevent plant damage from becoming too severe. If you need to protect herbs, insecticidal soap is cleared for that use. Unfortunately, insecticidal soap is not usually very effective on mobile insects like fourlined plant bugs. Fourlined plant bugs will feed until the end of June.

Forest Tent Caterpillar Nuisance
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

Forest tent caterpillars. Photo credit: U of MN Ext. Service

People in scattered areas of northern and central Minnesota have been experiencing large numbers of forest tent caterpillars. They are conspicuous as defoliators but are just as much a headache (if not more) when they crawl off trees to search for places to pupate. This leads them to nearby buildings, patios, decks, lawn furniture, or other objects where they pupate. This is a frustrating situation without an easy solution.

Try to physically remove caterpillars as best as possible with a spray of water or a broom. Insecticides (such as permethrin) labeled for the exterior of buildings can provide temporary relief but should not be oversprayed or overused. Particularly use caution when spraying near water (lakes, rivers, etc.) to prevent accidental contamination. Although they are only a temporary nuisance as larvae, the pupae they construct are also a nuisance. Remove them with stiff brushes as best as possible. Forest tent caterpillar populations have been increasing over the last several years. Their numbers are expected to be high during the next two years.

June Beetles
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

White grub adult. Photo credit: U of M Dept of Entomology

June beetles have been particularly common this year. They are active at night and are conspicuous as they buzz around lights and bumble into windows and the sides of homes. June beetles feed on the leaves of a variety of hardwood trees, including birch oak, and linden. Defoliation can range from light to severe, although any June beetle feeding is unlikely to injure well-established trees. If it is necessary to protect trees or shrubs from June beetle, spray an insecticide, such as acephate (Orthene), carbaryl (Sevin), diazinon, or permethrin. Spray in the late afternoon, since June beetles are active at night,

Finding June beetles in your yard does not necessarily mean that there are white grubs in your lawn. Since most white grubs were in their third (and last) year of their life cycle in 1999, it is unlikely that any present now. However, If second or third year white grubs are found, they should treated as soon as possible to minimize damage to the turf. Diazinon, halofenzamide (MACH-2), imidacloprid (Merit or Grub-ex), or isofenphos (Oftanol) are effective insecticides.

Black Flies
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

Black fly on human. Photo credit: U of M Dept of Entomology

Black flies have been out most of May. Commonly referred to as gnats, they are small (1/16 inch), stout, dark colored with a humpbacked body. They can be a serious problem because they can bite. Fortunately black flies are not known to transmit diseases to people in Minnesota. Immature black flies develop in large rivers (e.g. Mississippi, Minnesota, Crow, and Rum rivers) as well as small streams.

Upon emerging as adults, black flies usually can fly up to 10 miles from the river or stream where they developed. Black flies are most active a couple of hours after sunrise and a couple of hours after sunset. They are less of a nuisance on windy days and in open areas than on calm days and in sheltered areas (e.g. in wooded areas). Black flies find you by sensing the carbon dioxide in your breath. They are also attracted to dark colors such as navy blue. Most bites are on exposed skin, especially along the hairline, feet, ankles and arms. Some people have little reaction to a black fly bite while others suffer considerable irritation and swelling.

It is very difficult to prevent black flies from biting, especially when they are abundant. When possible, avoid areas with high black fly populations, such as lowlands, areas with dense vegetation or sheltered and shady areas. Also, try to avoid times when black flies are most active, generally at dawn, and dusk. Wear white or brightly colored clothing, which is less attractive to the flies than dark-colored clothing. Cover up bare skin with shoes, socks, long sleeves shirts, long pants, and hats. You can also try wearing a nylon head net, similar to a bee keepers veil. You can find them in outdoor stores and gardening catalogs.

The use of insect repellents, such as those with DEET (N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide) are not consistently effective but may provide some relief. Products containing a moderate amount of DEET (35%-60%) are as effective as those with a high content (90%-95%).

End of European Pine Sawflies and Eastern Tent Caterpillars
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

European pine sawflies Photo credit: Jeff Hahn

Eastern tent caterpillars. Photo credit: U of MN Dept. of Entomology

Two leaf chewing insects that have been common in many areas of Minnesota are finishing or are finished with their feeding now. Eastern tent caterpillar has been active since late April. They are conspicuous due to the silken webbing the construct in the forks of limbs of fruit trees and other hardwood trees. Although defoliation can be severe, eastern tent caterpillar is not likely to have any lasting effects on the health of well-established trees. Eastern tent caterpillar has one generation a year.

European pine sawfly larva was first active in early May. It feeds on the older needles of pine, especially mugo pine. Because it feeds primarily on the old needles, the tree is less likely to be seriously injured in one year. However, the appearance of pine trees and shrubs can be unattractive because of sawfly feeding. European pine sawfly has one generation a year.

The best method to determine how close these defoliators are to being done feeding is to look at their body length. Eastern tent caterpillar is two inches long when fully grown while European pine sawfly is one inch in length. If most larvae are that size or close to it, then it is too late for management. Treating mature larvae does not have any impact on plant health. Because both of these insects have only one generation, they do not feed again until next year. Check susceptible trees and shrubs early next spring. If defoliators are numerous, treat them while they're small (less half their full grown length).

Check out the newly revised Insect Journal at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/EntWeb/Ent.htm

Powdery Mildew
Chad Behrendt, Extension Plant Pathologist

Powdery mildew on lilac. Photo credit Chad Behrendt.

Recent cool, wet conditions have stimulated growth of the common pathogen, powdery mildew. Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that infects leaf tissue, causing severe aesthetic losses. Although powdery mildew rarely kills plants, it can stress the plant causing dieback and premature defoliation.

Powdery mildew typically appears on the surface of the leaf as a white to gray, fluffy, powdery growth. Severely infected leaves may also turn yellow. This powdery growth is fungal material called mycelium. Older infections usually produce fungal reproductive structures called cleistothecia. These structures appear as black, round, pinhead-sized balls within the fungal mycelium. A hand lens is often needed to view these structures.

Because cool, humid conditions are required for fungal growth and infection, powdery mildew is usually observed in the spring and fall. This year we have received many calls regarding powdery mildew. Most recently, we have diagnosed powdery mildew on viburnum and currant.

To manage powdery mildew try to lower humidity levels by increasing airflow and light penetration. Prune and thin dense plantings and individual trees, and avoid watering overhead late in the day. Resistant plants are available and should be considered when establishing new plantings.

Prevent Black Spot on Rose
Chad Behrendt, Extension Plant Pathologist

Black spot on roses. Photo credit: Plant Disease Clinic

Now that June has arrived, it is time to monitor your roses closely for black, circular lesions. These black, velvety lesions indicate the presence of the disease black spot. Although many rose cultivars contain resistance to black spot, it is still one of the most common diseases of rose in Minnesota.

Black spot is a fungal disease caused by Diplocarpon rosae. Symptoms typically begin to appear on infected leaves in early June. Leaf lesions, as described above, are usually circular, black, and velvety in appearance. However, multiple lesions may coalesce forming irregular patches of black growth. Heavily infected leaves usually turn yellow and drop from the plant causing partial or complete defoliation.

After surviving winter on dead leaves and canes, black spot becomes active and infects healthy leaves in early summer. Secondary spores produced on newly infected leaves are dispersed to adjacent leaves by rain splash, where they cause new infections. Multiple infections throughout the growing season often lead to severe defoliation.

Black spot control should begin with a comprehensive monitoring program. Plants should be monitored frequently for initial lesions. At the first sign of disease, infected leaves should be removed and destroyed. The remaining leaves may then be sprayed with a fungicide such as Funginex, chlorothalonil, or mancozeb. Fungicides are preventative and generally applied for aesthetic purposes. If fungicides are used, they need to be applied when the disease is first noticed or in early summer before the onset of leaf lesions. To minimize secondary spread of the disease, avoid wetting the leaves by watering at ground level. At the end of the season, remove and destroy all infected leaves and canes.

Is it Anthracnose or is it Frost?
Chad Behrendt, Extension Plant Pathologist

Ash anthracnose. Photo credit Chad Behrendt.

Oak frost (ash frost photo unavailable.) Photo credit Chad Behrendt.

Callers to the Yard and Garden Clinic have recently been inquiring whether anthracnose or some other problem is causing the damage they are seeing on ash trees. In some cases the damage was anthracnose, and in other cases the damage was most likely related to a late frost. To confuse the issue even more, severe ash plant bug feeding may also cause brown necrotic areas. Since plant bug feeding can be differentiated by the white stippling (feeding) on the leaf tissue, we need to focus on and examine the symptoms of frost damage and anthracnose.

Anthracnose, a common fungal leaf disease, typically appears in early spring as spotting on newly formed leaves. Leaves in the lower canopy are generally infected and display random, brown, necrotic spots. Newly formed leaves also generally develop marginal browning and curling, as a result of marginal infections. Both of these symptoms are usually associated with green healthy leaf tissue.

In contrast, frost damage typically appears as an overall blackening of the leaf tissue. The entire leaf, sometimes from the margin inward, dies and blackens. Generally, frost damage being an environmental problem occurs uniformly over the entire tree or one portion of the tree. This differs from the lower, spotted leaves of anthracnose.

Therefore, when freezing or near freezing temperatures occur, closely examine the tree and leaf tissue for characteristic symptoms of frost damage or anthracnose. To date we have observed and diagnosed both anthracnose and frost damage on ash trees throughout the state. To manage these problems try to maintain tree health by watering during dry periods and mulching. Chemicals are available for anthracnose, but are generally not recommended.

Test your diagnostic savvy monthly with Disease Watch at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/PlantPathWeb/PlPa.htm

Read all about antibiotics and their use in treating plant disease in the June issue of the American Phytopathological Society's APSnet. Go to: http://www.scisoc.org/.

Editorial Notes

Meet our newest staffers! Photo credit: Beth Jarvis

Spotted these two in the Library of Congress recently. The one at left, shovels in hand, represents horticulture/agriculture. The one at right may be more of a naturalist but... there is that butterfly by its face. The cherub plant pathologist was probably off looking for sunscreen.

Speaking of cherubs, in the June 15, Bob Mugaas, turf expert and Hennepin Co. Horticulture Educator, will talk about the phophorus restrictions that are popping up all over the metro. Mary Blickenderfer, wetlands vegetation specialist from the North Central Grand Rapids Research and Outreach Center, will provide information on plants for damp and wet sites. This summer, Dr. Carl Rosen, who wrote about soil tests in the May 15th issue will continue the discussion to include pH and soluble salts; Dr. George Heimpel will discuss Intergrated Pest Management as it applies ot the home garden and Dr. Cindy Tong, our post harvest specialist, will talk about handling garden produce..

I rely on your comments and questions for ideas for future articles. Please, keep the story ideas coming! We really try to be responsive to your needs.

Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.

Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/. Our home page has clickable links to most of the components of the Yard & Garden Line, such as Bell Museum of Natural History, INFO U and the Soil Testing Lab.

Deb Brown answers gardening questions on Minnesota Public Radio's (MPR) "Midmorning" program on the first Thursday of every month at 10 a.m. Katherine Lanpher hosts the program that is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations.

If you have gardening questions, please call the Yard & Garden Line at (612) 624-4771.

If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to: listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist
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Happy gardening!

Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator

Websites
Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series. This site contains everything from landscape design planning and lawncare to both herbaceous and woody plant selection databases. The URL is:http://www.sustland.umn.edu


For pesticide info, for both home owner and professionals, check out:

http://www.crc.agri.umn.edu/~mnhelps/

There's also some very interesting reading at Forest Products website. To get there from here, click on: http://www.cnr.umn.edu/FR/extension/

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