Yard & Garden Line News
Volume 1 Number 5 June 15, 1999
|
 |
Those Dreaded Mushrooms
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist
|
Mushrooms
Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis |
This wet spring has resulted in people calling the University
requesting help with a persistent lawn malady, mushrooms. They'd
like to spray a safe, effective fungicide on them to make them go
away. Unfortunately, there's little to do but sit back and let
nature take its course, raking out those dreaded mushrooms if you
think they pose a hazard.
Mushrooms in lawns are the reproductive, spore-producing parts of
fungi found decomposing organic matter in the soil. (By the way,
that's pronounced fun ji, with a hard "j." It rhymes with fun
guy. A fun guy is someone who likes to party; fungi is the
plural of fungus.)
Fungi usually live off dead roots and woodchips left behind when
a tree or shrub has died and been removed. Sometimes it's buried
wood at new construction sites. Fungi are part of nature's
recycling system. Once the material they live off has been fully
broken down and nutrients returned to the soil, their work is
done and you won't see more mushrooms.
Depending on the size of the roots or wood left underground,
complete decomposition could take several years or more. In the
meantime, the fungi produce mushrooms whenever conditions are
sufficiently cool and moist -- usually in spring and fall.
They're rarely a problem once summer's hotter, drier weather
takes over.
There's nothing to spray in the lawn that will eliminate
mushrooms. And it's usually not practical, even if it were
possible, to remove most of the decomposing wood from the soil.
What you can do is rake the mushrooms out, if you're concerned
that they pose an "attractive nuisance" to neighborhood children.
But don't be surprised if you remove them one day, only to find a
whole new batch the next morning.
Alternatives to Grass for Light-Challenged Locations
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist
|
Look mom, no grass!
Photo credit:
Deb Brown |
Trying to maintain a thick, healthy lawn in a shady, "light-challenged" location is a losing proposition. Grass won't spread
well, and where the lawn is weak and thin, other better-adapted
plants are sure to move in -- plants such as moss or the much
maligned and hated creeping charlie.
Why not avoid the frustration of trying to grow good grass in the
shade? You can turn your landscaping "sow's ear" into a shade
garden "silk Purse" that will provide you with gratification
rather than aggravation. But before making any drastic changes,
first assess how you use the shady portions of your yard.
If you're content to replace the lawn with beds of shrubbery,
woodland wildflowers, shade-tolerant perennials such as ferns and
hostas, and expanses of interesting groundcovers, you should have
no difficulty. All you'll need is stepping stones or paths
through the plants.
One of the toughest situations to deal with is the need to walk
about freely in the shaded area. Grass is the only Minnesota-hardy groundcover (with the possible exception of creeping
charlie) that can withstand regular foot traffic. Other
groundcovers might bounce back from dogs or cats running through
them occasionally, but human footsteps will smash them down,
often irreparably.
If your family includes young children who must use the shaded
parts of your yard as a play area, you might re-think your
attitude towards creeping charlie. It is really a fine, low-maintenance groundcover for all but the most densely shaded
locations. It needs mowing only two or three times over the
summer.... and it can bounce back from a fair amount of foot
traffic.
Another option would be to spread a thick layer of shredded bark
in the children's play area. Bark mulch compresses over time,
decomposing where it contacts the soil, so you'll have to add
more every couple years. But shredded bark makes a resilient,
safe surface for romping around. You can also use it to create
footpaths and define spaces for benches or other garden
furniture.
Now, how do you go about turning that dismal shady lawn into an
inviting shady garden? Begin by observing existing shade
gardens. The Minnesota Landscape Arboretum's hosta glen is a
shining example; Hennepin County's Eloise Butler Wildflower
Garden is another.
Stroll through some of the older neighborhoods in the Twin Cities
-- the ones with lots of large, mature trees. Many homes in the
Prospect Park neighborhood in southeast Minneapolis have lovely
shady front yards, often sloping rather steeply to the street.
Creative gardeners have turned those so-called "problem" sites
into rich tapestries of foliage, far more attractive than most
ordinary manicured lawns.
Visit your local library or bookstore to read about landscaping
and gardening in shaded sites, then check out several of the fine
local providers of shade-tolerant landscape plants such as "Shady
Oaks Nursery" in Waseca. "Squire House Gardens" in Afton and
"Ambergate Gardens", Waconia, each feature a wide range of
unusual and interesting plants, many of which are suited to shady
conditions.
"Savory Gardens", in Edina, specializes in hostas, but you'll
find many choice hostas and other shade-loving perennials at any
of the larger garden centers in the Metro area. Bachman's,
alone, offers row upon row of tables covered with all manner of
perennials, clearly marked as to their light requirements.
Most shade-tolerant flowering perennials are best suited for
light shade rather than heavy shade. And they're rarely as
flamboyant as sun-loving flowers. Make up for this lack of color
by planting interesting combinations of foliage. Contrast dark
green leaves with lighter ones or foliage that's variegated green
and white. Contrast lacy leaves with big, bold ones. You'll be
amazed at how many choices you have. Don't forget you can tuck
some colorful impatiens and begonias in among the perennials.
Finally, look at your new shade garden as a work in progress. It
won't happen all at once. Plan to experiment with different
plants, then build on your successes each year. After giving up
the battle to grow grass in shade, you'll soon recognize that
shade for the landscape asset it really is.
Mulch Gardens Now That Soil Has Warmed
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist
|
Daffodils mulched with pine needles
Photo credit:
Deb Brown |
Mulching garden soil helps keep it cooler, which is helpful in
hot weather, but can be a mistake if you mulch heat-loving
vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, and melons too early. That
shouldn't be a problem now, though. Soil has warmed sufficiently
by mid-June that mulch is a good idea, regardless of which
"crops" you're growing -- even flowers.
Mulch benefits your plants many ways in addition to insulating
the soil and keeping it from heating excessively. It helps
conserve water by cutting down on the evaporative loss of
moisture through the soil. It keeps many weed seeds from
sprouting by denying them the warming rays of sunlight they need.
And it makes it easier to pull weeds out because the soil is
looser or more "friable" beneath several inches of mulch.
You might not think about it, but the myriad drops of water
applied through a hose or sprinkler combine with drops of
rainfall to pound the soil and create a crusty surface. Mulch
takes the brunt of this repeated pounding, leaving the soil
beneath it in better shape, making it easier for roots to expand.
The list of potential mulching materials is almost endless. A
good rule of thumb, though, is to reserve woody, "slow-to-break-down" materials for use around perennial plantings such as roses
and other shrubbery and leafy perennial plants for sun or shade.
Wood chips, shredded bark, and decorative wood nuggets fall into
this category. They can be applied and left undisturbed for
years, though you'll have to add more every few years as they
decompose.
When it comes to flowering annuals or vegetable gardens, woody
mulches are less appealing. They'll do the job just fine, but
what do you do with them at the end of the season or the
following spring when you want to turn the soil over again?
Most people prefer to use grass clippings, straw, chipped leaves,
or partially broken down compost in these situations. They can
be turned into the soil in fall with some additional fertilizer.
The added organic matter will improve soil quality, and the
garden will be ready to plant again by spring.
Summer Lawn Care
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist
|
Watering a lawn
Photo credit:
Deb Brown |
As hotter weather patterns become the norm, take time to adjust
your lawnmower blade height. Most lawns should be mowed to a
height of 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches in summer.
Letting your grass grow taller yields many benefits. It shades
grass roots and crowns (the area where new growth arises) from
heat and sun and helps protect against drying winds. Research
has also found that grass develops deeper roots if it's not mowed
too short. Those roots are able to reach moisture further down
in the soil, helping keep grass healthier when it's hot and dry,
or when you're not around to care for it daily.
If you let grass grow too tall it's difficult to mow. It tends
to fall flat and the lawnmower rolls right over it. To avoid
this, mow frequently without taking too much off the top. The
rule of thumb is to remove only 1/3rd of the height any time you
mow. If you come home from vacation to very long grass, mow part
of it off, then wait a couple days and mow it shorter again.
Don't take four or five inches off at once!
To keep growing well, grass needs roughly one inch of water
weekly. When nature doesn't provide it in the form of rainfall,
you'd better get those sprinklers out. If your soil is sandy,
apply 1/2 inch of water, twice weekly, otherwise just leave your
sprinklers on long enough to soak the soil about 5 or 6 inches
down every week or so, depending on how hot it is.
Allow grass to go dormant at your risk. While it might come back
well, especially if you have a low maintenance lawn, you can
never be certain. Meanwhile, weeds will continue to grow and
expand while your good grasses remain in limbo. At a minimum,
water dormant grass lightly every two or three weeks (apply about
1/4 inch of water) to keep crowns hydrated and ensure a better
survival rate.
Maple Petiole Borer
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
Image source: University of Wisconsin |
Maples, especially sugar maples, were commonly dropping green leaves during late
May and early June. Fallen leaves retained part of the petiole. This damage was due
to an insect called maple petiole borer. Maple petiole borers, a type of sawfly,
overwinter as pupae in the soil. Adults emerge in May and lay eggs on petioles near
the leaf blades. Larvae hatch and bore into the petioles where they feed for 20 - 30
days. Petioles eventually break and leaves fall to the ground. The larvae remain in the
petioles staying on the tree. After about 10 days those petioles also drop to the
ground. The larvae move into the soil where they remain until next spring.
Although it is alarming to see green leaves on the ground, only a relatively small
number are affected. There is no significant impact to tree health. Management is
difficult and not practical. Raking fallen leaves has no effect on maple petiole borer
populations as the insects are not in the petioles attached to the leaves. Trying to
remove the petioles that do contain the sawflies as they fall would be very difficult and
probably not worth the effort.
European Pine Sawflies
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
 |
European sawflies
Photo credit: Jeff Hahn |
European pine sawflies were commonly seen during late May and early June feeding
on pine, especially mugho pine. These sawflies grow to be about 4/5 inches long
before dropping to the ground to pupate. Adults emerge late in the fall to lay eggs on
needles which hatch next spring. These larvae have a dark head and a grey green
body with light and dark green strips. The best time to treat these sawflies are when
they're ˝ inch or smaller. European pine sawflies should be all finished feeding by
now. They have only one generation. If you had problems with sawflies this year, start
checking for them next spring about mid-May to determine whether treatment is
necessary.
Mountain Ash Sawflies
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
 |
Mt. ash sawflies
Photo credit: Jeff Hahn |
Watch for mountain ash sawflies. Adults, a type of nonstinging wasp, emerge from the
soil in early June (in central Minnesota) and start to lay eggs in mountain ash leaves.
Eggs hatch about mid-June. The larvae are caterpillar or worm-like insects with pale
yellowish-green bodies and rows of black spots. Larvae are about 3/4 inch long when
full grown.
Mountain ash sawfly larvae consume entire leaflets except for the midveins. They
typically feed in gregarious, nonsocial groups, eating foliage of one branch before
moving on to the next limb. They feed for about three weeks before dropping to the
ground to pupate. The first generation finishes by the first part of August. A second
generation of sawflies occurs from mid to late August through September.
Trees normally tolerate mountain ash sawfly feeding, even complete defoliation; only
the appearance of the mountain ash is affected. However, trees that have been heavily
defoliated for several years or weakened from other causes or trees that have recently
been transplanted are at higher risk to injury from mountain ash sawfly feeding.
If it is necessary to manage mountain ash sawfly numbers, the first step is detection.
Started checking susceptible trees carefully in June for young sawflies. It is important
to discover sawfly larvae while they're still small so treatments can minimize their
feeding. Ideally you want to catch sawflies when they are about 3/8 inch long or less
(i.e. one-half full grown length or less). Keep in mind that once they are full grown (3/4
inch long), it is too late for control.
If you wish to treat mountain ash sawflies, spray them with a contact insecticide, such
as insecticidal soap, acephate (Orthene), malathion, diazinon, or carbaryl (Sevin) when
sawfly larvae are small. You can reduce the amount of insecticide you apply by
carefully checking which branches have sawfly larvae. If you find them on only a few
limbs, just treat those areas. It is not necessary to spray the whole tree.
Spittlebugs
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
 |
Spittlebug
Photo credit: Jeff Hahn |
Frothy white masses have been common on a variety of flowers this spring. In the
center of this 'spittle' is a pale green insect known as a spittlebug. Spittlebugs, like
aphids and treehoppers, have piercing-sucking mouthparts. They stay inside their
protective froth until they're mature. Despite their appearance, they do little injury to
plants.
Management of spittlebugs is challenging. Physical removal is effective as long as
there is only a small number of plants to work with. Insecticides do not penetrate
through the spittle mass very well. It is possible to wash this froth off with a hard spray
from a garden hose, then spray the spittlebugs before they cover themselves up again.
Many insecticides would be effective on exposed spittlebugs, including insecticidal
soap. Spittlebugs are only a problem until the end of June when they mature and leave
the plant.
Large Ant Mounds in Turf
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
 |
Ants
Photo credit: Jeff Hahn |
Ants are common in turf. One type, known as a field ant, makes a large, crater-like
mound. These ants are moderate sized (about 1/4 - 3/8 inch long) and red and black.
They construct nests that can measure a foot or more across. Their nests can make
mowing difficult and they also can be a nuisance by biting people that disturb their nest.
Ants should be tolerated whenever possible. They are beneficial because of the
insects they eat and the soil they aerate. It would not be desirable or practical to
attempt to eradicate all ants in a lawn. However, it may be necessary to treat specific
nuisance nests. You can first try drenching the nest with soapy water. You can also
use an insecticide, such as carbaryl (Sevin), diazinon, or chlorpyrifos (Dursban).
Liquids are most effective when drenched into the nest. More than one application may
be necessary.
Mosquitoes
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist
 |
Mosquito
Photo credit: Jeff Hahn |
Once again we face the challenge of enjoying the outdoors while trying to minimize
mosquito bites. There are some steps you can take to minimize them but not matter
what, there will always be mosquitoes.
Mosquitoes are most active early in the morning and at dusk. Try to avoid those times
when possible. Reduce areas where mosquitoes may hide by cutting weeds and other
grassy areas near your home. Leave yard lights off when possible to avoid attracting
them unnecessarily. You can also try less attractive lights like sodium lights;
flourescent or incandescent lights are more attractive to mosquitoes.
You can protect yourself when outside by wearing long-sleeved shirts and long pants.
For added protection, use a repellent. DEET (N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide) is the most
effective. Apply DEET to clothes or skin but only enough to lightly cover the desired
areas. Do not overapply repellents! When treating children, do not use a product that
contains more than 20% DEET. Always read product information thoroughly before
using.
You may have fewer bites by following these steps but as long as it rains, there will be
plenty of mosquitoes. Because they can be so frustrating, you may be tempted to try
less reliable methods for controlling mosquitoes. However buyer beware -- what
sounds to good to be true usually is.
Insect electrocuters, also known as bug zappers attract large numbers of insects.
However, research has shown that mosquitoes makes up less than 5% of all flying
insects killed. The number of mosquito bites were the same regardless of whether or
not you used a bug zapper. A recent study has even shown the insect electrocuters
do more harm by killing beneficial insects.
There are others devices that use sound to repel mosquitoes. They claim to imitate the
sound of male mosquitoes or dragonflies, both insects that female mosquitoes are
supposed to avoid. Unfortunately this doesn't work in practice. Research has tested
many of these products; none reduce the number of mosquito bites.
The Citrosa 'Mosquito Fighter' plant is genetically created by crossing an African
geranium with the Grass of China (which contains some citronella, a mild repellent).
These plants are pleasant smelling and will grow to a height of 12 feet if left unpruned.
But despite their claims, research has demonstrated that these plants do not repel
mosquitoes.
Purple martins and bats have been reputed to consume large numbers of mosquitoes.
While there is nothing wrong with encouraging these animals, mosquitoes actually
make up less than 3% of purple martins' diets and less than 1% of bats' diets. Larger-sized, flying insects, such as dragonflies, butterflies, crane flies, beetles, and moths are
the most common meals for these animals.
Get the low down on this month's insect pests at Insects http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/Ent.htm
Transplanting Basics for Balled and Burlapped Trees and Shrubs
Jeff Gillman, Extension Nursery Management Specialist
 |
Planting a tree
Photo credit:
Gary Johnson |
One of the quickest ways to spruce up an empty yard is to plant a balled and burlapped (B&B)
tree. Balled and burlapped trees and shrubs have burlap and wire encased soil balls around their
roots. They are the largest specimens usually seen at garden centers. Transplanting these trees
takes quite a bit of work, but with the proper care and planting technique these trees and shrubs
will have an instant impact on your landscape and will enhance the yard for years to come. When
transplanting a balled and burlapped plant there are three main things that you should keep in
mind so that the tree will have the greatest possible chance at a long and healthy life.
1. A firm soil ball around the roots is imperative to tree health, which is why these balls are
tightly encased in burlap and wire. A soil ball which is loose and falling apart will damage and
tear the young fine roots contained within. Take care to avoid damaging the soil ball by dropping
or rolling it. Once the ball falls apart there is no going back and the tree will have a reduced
chance for survival.
2. Don't plant too deep. Take a look around the woods and you'll see that the uppermost roots
of any given tree are probably visible. It is only in manmade landscapes that we don't see tree
roots. Remember, roots need air as well as water, so plant your B&B tree higher than it was
planted in the nursery.
3. Get rid of as much of the twine, burlap, and wire as you can. The twine that holds the wire
cage around the soil ball helps to keep it firm, but, after the tree is planted, it is important to
remove this twine so that it doesn't end up girdling the stem and damaging or killing the tree.
The wire and burlap surrounding the soil ball may have a detrimental effect on new developing
roots so their removal makes sense, but, DO NOT REMOVE SO MUCH WIRE AND
BURLAP THAT THE SOIL BALL FALLS APART. It is better to have wire and burlap than
torn and shredded roots from a ball which has crumbled apart.
With the above tips in mind lets take a look at a best case scenario for planting a B&B tree or
shrub.
1. Dig a hole that is wider (6"-12" is best) on each side than the ball of soil containing the tree is,
and which is about 2/3 as deep as the height of the soil ball. Loosen the soil in a 5' radius from the center of the planting hole by manually turning the soil or rototilling. Two to three inches of compost or well rotted manure may be incorporated into the soil by placing it on top of the soil before tilling. If a soil test indicates the need, then add a phosphorus fertilizer to the soil that was removed from the hole before it is backfilled into the hole.
2. Place the tree in the hole. After the tree is in the hole remove the twine holding the wire
basket on and then remove the top few sections of wire and burlap (if you sense that the ball is
falling apart then fill the hole about 1/3-1/2 full of soil before attempting to remove the wire and
burlap).
3. Fill the rest of the hole with soil, then mound soil up to the sides of the uppermost portion of
the soil ball (remember, about 1/3 of the soil ball should be above ground).
4. Water the tree in! Water the tree once a week
using about 5-7 gallons of water per watering.
5. Unless a soil test indicates a severe nutrient deficiency it is usually best to wait six months to a
year before adding any fertilizer. B&B trees have between 75 and 90% of their roots removed at
harvest. Adding fertilizer to the remaining roots may cause damage and stunt the tree.
Note:
The newly revised Extension publication Planting and Transplanting Trees and Shrubs is available on-line at
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG3825.html.
What's the Story on Sevin?
Beth Jarvis, Yard & Garden Project Coordinator
There's rumor going around that the common insecticide Sevin will no longer be available for homeowner use. This is not true.
Rhone-Poulenc, manufacturer of Sevin, has opted to "take possession of selling Sevin" according to a Rhone-Poulenc sales representative. They will market it to homeowners through one outside vendor, as Garden Tech Sevin. Ortho, Bonide and all those others will no longer sell Sevin.
It will be available through all the usual outlets, such as garden centers, Target, Wal-mart and be available in pints, quarts, and ready to use.
Concern Over Apple Scab Is Rising!
Chad Behrendt, Extension Plant Pathologist
|
| 1998 |
|
1999
Photo credit:
Chad Behrendt
|
Although I have written articles on apple scab in previous issues, I feel it is necessary to provide you with a quick update on apple scab. This disease, common throughout Minnesota, varies in severity from year to year according to seasonal temperatures and, most importantly, rainfall. Apple scab this year is quite severe as a result of moderate temperatures and frequent rainfall. In contrast, apple scab was of minor importance last year due to infrequent rainfall.
Normally, apple scab appears as a black to olive-green spot with feathery margins on the leaf surface. As the disease progresses, these singular spots coalesce to form larger patches. Under severe circumstances apple scab causes leaves to turn yellow and fall from the tree. This year apple scab has appeared as brownish to black or olive-green patches, and is rarely observed as individual spots. In addition, many leaves are yellowing and falling from trees.
Fungicide sprays may be of value as a preventative treatment for uninfected leaves. Fungicide sprays will not help in cases where the majority of the tree is infected. If the tree produces a new flush of leaves, a fungicide may be used to protect the healthy leaves. In general, most trees will remain healthy and will not require fungicide application. However, fruit quality may be affected.
Problems With Flowering Garden Plants
Chad Behrendt, Extension Plant Pathologist
|
| Anthracnose on lily of the valley |
|
| Phyllosticta leaf spot on ivy |
|
Iris leaf spot
Photo credit:
Chad Behrendt
|
As a result of the frequent rains this year the Yard and Garden Clinic has received many calls on leaf spots, anthracnose, and root rots. Some of the most common problems include anthracnose on Lily-of-the-Valley, Phyllosticta leaf spot on ivy, and iris leaf spot, and bulb rot of lily. All of these problems are stimulated by frequent rainfall and are common throughout Minnesota.
Identifying the exact problem can often be difficult since a variety of fungi and bacteria infect most flowering garden plants. To minimize disease severity, follow these cultural practices:
- Maintain plant health by watering and fertilizing plants properly.
- Insure good soil drainage to help prevent wet, saturated soils and root rots.
- Water plants at ground level early in the day to reduce leaf moisture.
- Slow the spread of disease by removing infected leaves or severely infected plants.
- Mulch plants to prevent spores on fallen debris from splashing to healthy leaves.
- Maintain thorough airflow to reduce moisture.
- Apply fungicides when disease is expected to be severe.
A variety of ornamental fungicides are available. The most common ingredients include Bayleton, Bordeaux mixture, chlorothalonil (Daconil 2787), Mancozeb, thiophanate-methyl (Cleary’s 3336), and thiram (Bulb Dust). Before buying, opening, or using fungicides read the label and make certain that the correct host and disease are listed on the label.
Red Band Spotting on Two and Three Needled Pines
Chad Behrendt, Extension Plant Pathologist
|
Dothistroma
Photo credit:
Chad Behrendt
|
Dothistroma needle disease or red band as it is commonly called, has been frequently observed and identified this spring by the Yard and Garden Clinic. This fungal disease infects most two and three needle pines including Austrian, ponderosa, mugo, red and Scots. Of these trees red and Scots pines are usually the most resistant.
Infection occurs in the spring during cool, wet weather as spores released from infected needles land on healthy second-year and older needles. These needles develop reddish-brown bands at the point of infection, where the fungus girdles and kills the needle. Infected needles typically turn brown from the point of infection outward. Severe infection causes most of the needles to appear brown, and is often confused with winter injury. To identify winter injury look for a uniform browning and dieback of the needles, while Dothistroma needle disease will cause random browning and dieback of the needles, along with reddish-brown bands.
To minimize the severity of this disease, maintain tree vigor and increase airflow wherever possible. These practices help maintain the trees defense reactions and reduce the amount of available moisture, which is required for infection. Proper site selection, watering, mulching, and fertilizing can also help reduce disease severity. New trees should be adequately spaced during planting to enhance airflow. Copper fungicides are currently labeled for use. Fungicides should be applied to protect the new growth as it emerges, but it is too late to apply fungicides this season. See the label for additional directions.
Slime Mold Fungi
Chad Behrendt, Extension Plant Pathologist
|
Slime mold
Photo: Plant Path. Dept. |
Slime mold fungi have been detected on home lawns, in flowerpots, and in wood chips of ornamental gardens. Slime mold fungi may be multi-colored and textured; some resemble vomit! These fungi are decomposers of organic matter and produce reproductive structures during wet periods. No control is necessary.
Test your diagnostic savvy monthly with Disease Watch at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/Plpa.htm
Editorial Notes
|
| New Y & G Clinic logo |
Deb Brown will be the regularly scheduled guest on Minnesota Public Radio's (MPR) "Midmorning" program on the first Thursday of every month. Katherine Lanpher hosts the program that is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations. Although she's been a guest at MPR numerous times, she'll start as a regularly scheduled guest on July 2.
Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/. Our newly revised home page has clickable links to most of the components of the Yard & Garden Line, such as Bell Museum of Natural History, INFO U and the Soil Testing Lab. You'll also find links to the current issue of the
Plant Health Care Update and back issue archives. Plant Health Care Update is a newsletter
written by Master Gardeners for Master Gardeners. The authors have completed advanced
training to earn the designation Plant Health Care Advisors.
If you have gardening questions, please call the Yard & Garden Line at (612) 624-4771.
In upcoming issues, our guest authors will be writing about renovating strawberry and raspberry beds, Colorado potato beetles, using low maintenance grass mixes, care and maintenance of marginal hardy trees and shrubs, selecting the right root stock for apple trees, and the Minnesota Mum Project. Watch for them! If you have suggestions for
other topics, please let me know!
We publish the Yard & Garden Line News twice a month during the gardening season, on
the 1st of the month and the 15th of the month.
Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.
For plant and insect questions, visit http://www.extension.umn.edu/askmg.
Thousands of questions have been answered, so try the search option in the black bar at the top left of the board for the fastest answer.
If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to:
listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist
or to unsubscribe, enter: unsub yglnewslist
Happy gardening!
Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator
Previous Page
University of Minnesota Extension Service Home Page
In accordance with the Americans with Disabilities Act, this material is
available in alternative formats upon request. Please contact your
University of Minnesota county extension office or, outside of Minnesota,
contact the Distribution Center at (612) 625-8173.
The University of Minnesota Extension Service is committed to the policy that
all persons shall have equal access to its programs, facilities, and employment
without regard to race, color, creed, religion, national origin, sex, age,
marital status, disability, public assistance status, veteran status, or sexual
orientation.
Image source: University of Wisconsin
