Yard & Garden Line News
Volume 6 Number 11                                                               July 15, 2004
Features this issue:

Perennials for Clay Soils
You are Invited to UMore Park's Open House
Plant Easy Care Daylilies
Cankered Pagodas
Leaf Galls
July Garden Tips
Editorial Notes

Perennials for Clay Soils
Anne Gachuhi, Regional Extension Educator

Many clay-tolerant plants in Arboretum bed. Left to right: Calamagrostis (grass), (pink)  Joe Pye weed, (purple) Russian sage, white coneflowers. Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis
The challenge of growing perennials in clay soils can be overwhelming despite any good intentions a gardener might have. A wise gardener doesn't just plant from the ground up but builds from below the soil. Soils with high clay content have low permeability, absorb water slowly, drain poorly when wet and are slow to dry out. Most have a higher pH (alkaline). To make the situation worse, if compacted (either from construction equipment or regular foot traffic), the soils have small pore spaces, are insufficiently aerated and plants may not thrive. Heavy clay soils end up being very difficult to dig or work in. When dry they are like brick, when wet they are sticky. An understanding of the type of soils a gardener has makes it easier to select plants for a perennial garden that is sure to survive for many years.

An added challenge for growing perennials is the fact that most of Minnesota has a shorter growing period. Gardeners in Minnesota operate in at least one of the following 3 USDA hardiness Zones ("Zone 4 for the lower third of the State, the upper 2/3 of the state is in Zone 3. Southern Lake of the Woods County, northern and eastern Beltrami County and a portion of northern St. Louis County are in Zone 2"). (MN. zone map)

In order to create the "wow look" in your perennial garden, you have to amend the clay soils to provide an environment in which the plants will do well. Adding large amounts of compost or other organic matter (e.g. pine bark humus, composted leaves etc) into the soil improves the soil texture, structure and tilth. Incorporate 1-2 inches of well-decomposed compost into the top 6-8 inches of soil. Increasing the size of pore spaces will improve permeability and drainage in heavy soils. Consideration of the site's drainage, pH, fertility, texture, structure, and moisture content is important. A soil test is a necessary first step. The soil test is at: http://soiltest.coafes.umn.edu/.

When you don't have the ideal soils to grow perennials (loose, easily workable, well drained, fertile and with lots of organic matter)

The joy and delight of growing perennials is still within a gardener's reach despite the above challenges. There are perennials that will tolerate soils with high clay content. Select perennials that will grow in your hardiness zone (reliably hardy), are adaptable to the light levels in your garden (sunny, partial shade or shade locations) and plan for continuous bloom times. Last but not least, choose perennial partners that complement, coordinate or contrast successfully. The possibilities are limitless; combinations can be bold, or subtle, conventional or unexpected as long as they look okay to you. The perennials listed below are adapted to clay soils and do well in the above hardiness zones.

Goatsbeard.
Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis
Achillea spp. (Yarrow). Zone 3
Achillea range in color; gold, yellow, pink, red, orange and white. Achillea tomentosa (woolly yarrows) and A. filipendulina (fernleaf yarrows) are more common. Cultivars include the pink hybrid Achillea 'Appleblossom', 'Coronation Gold', 'Moonshine' and 'Terra Cotta'. The more recent introductions include A. tomentosa 'King Edward' have clusters of soft yellow flowers and A. siberica 'Love Parade' have clusters of soft pink flowers. Yarrows prefer sunny locations and dry soils, attract butterflies and are excellent for cutting and drying.

Aconitum (Monkshood) Zone 2-4
Hardy for Zone 2 are . Aconitum nappellus "Blue Valley" (dark blue-violet flowers) and A. napellus 'Album' whereas A. henryi 'Sparks' does well in zone 3 and A. carmichaelii 'Arendsii' can grow in zone 4.

Anthemis (Golden Marguerite) Zone 3
A. tinctoria 'Kelwayi' has daisy-like golden yellow flowers. Grows in any soil type and responds well to deadheading. Only problem is that it self-seeds freely.

Anchusa (Bugloss ) Zone 4
Anchusa prefers sunny locations and has old fashioned forget-me-not like flowers. Forms tall, brilliant blue clumps. It's good for the back of the border, preferring dry sites. May self seed.

Aruncus dioicus (Goatsbeard) Zone 3
Aruncus dioicus has large off-white, shaggy plumes and makes a good accent plant for damp soils in partial shade.

Aster x frickartii (Aster) Zone 3
Produces lavender-blue flowers with yellow centers. New England Asters (Aster Novae angliae) are wonderful butterfly nectar sources. Aster x frickartii 'Wonder of Staffa' may need winter protection. Asters have an added advantage of having a longer bloom period and hence are great to combine with perennials that are early bloomers.

Asters.
Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis
Aquilegia (Columbine) Zone 4.
Part shade to full sun. For early blooming, the Songbird series is your best choice. A. canadensis "Little Lanterns" is a newer introduction and more dwarf in stature. A.vulgaris 'William Guinness' has double ruffled and pleated blooms and is also more recent in the market. Columbines are constantly invaded by leaf miners that cause tunneling which is more of an aesthetic challenge than a serious damage to the plant.

Artemisia (Wormwood) Zone 4
Prefers sunny locations. Grown for their striking silver gray foliage. Some varieties make excellent dried material e.g. Artemisia schmidtiana 'Nana' (Silver Mound).

Asclepias tuberosum (Butterfly weed) Zone 4
Monarch butterflies are highly attracted to it and so are hummingbirds. It's a drought tolerant native wildflower with showy bright orange flowers and prefers full sun.

Astilbe spp. (False Spirea) Zone 4
Grows in partial shade to full sun and prefers moist locations. Offers a wide selection of bloom times, plant forms and fluffy flower spikes and colors (White-red-pink-lavenders). 'Fanal' is an early blooming variety while 'Hennie Graafland' is a late blooming variety. Astilbe chinensis 'Visions' has fragrant raspberry full upright pink plumes. Astilbes adds texture to your garden long after the flowers are gone.

Baptisia australis (Blue False Indigo) Zone 3
Grows in sun to partial shade. Have dark blue flowers and attractive seed pods. Its drought tolerant, but may need staking.

Blue False
Indigo Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis
Coreopsis (Tickseed) Zone 4
Coreopsis tripteris is great for the border, tolerates part shade but prefers full sun.

Doronicum (Leopard's Bane) Zone 4
Can grow in sunny, partial shade or full shade locations. It has daisy-like blooms and makes a nice compliment to later flowering spring bulbs. D. caucasicum 'Magnificum' has single yellow daisies.

Digitalis grandiflora (Foxglove ) Zone 4
Grows in sunny locations or part sun. Could be biennial in some cases. Produces a showy display of trumpet-shaped flowers available in mixtures of yellow, white, cream, pink and rose.

Echinacea (Coneflower) Zone 3
Grows in sunny to partial sun. Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower) has a long bloom period. Makes a great border plant and an excellent nectar source for butterflies. 'Rubinstern' and 'Ruby' Star' are newer selections with deep rosy pink flowers.

Rattlesnake master. Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis
Eryngium yuccifolium (Rattlesnake master). Tolerant to most soils, has white spherical flowers and foliage that resembles yucca. You either love this plant or hate it.

Eupatorium (Joe-Pye Weed) Zone 4
Great for butterfly gardening (nectar source). Prefers full sun to part sun. Flowers late summer too early fall. Cultivars include 'Gateway' with Mauve-pink flowers, 'Bartered Bride' with white flowers and E. rugosum 'Chocolate' with chocolate colored foliage and white flowers. Tolerates moist soils.

Helenium (Helen's Flower or Sneeze weed) Zone 3
Prefers full sun. Clump forming heavy bloomers with small daisy-like flowers with colors ranging from red-orange to yellow. Benefits from dividing every 2-3 years.

Monarda didyma (Bee Balm) Zone 4
Native wildflower hybridized for garden planting. A member of the mint family. Comes in various colors (White, red-purple and lavender). Attractive to bees and hummingbirds. Prefers sun to partial shade. Tall cultivars include 'Marshall's delight' while 'Petite delight' is a dwarf variety with lavender-pink blooms.

Ligularia Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis
Ligularia (Goldenray) Zone 4
Grows in sunny, part sun to full shaded locations. Great selection for a border plant on wet sites. 'The Rocket' has yellow spikes and dark green lobed leaves

Liatris (Gayfeather) Zone 3
Grows in sunny to partial shade locations. They are low maintenance plants that produce tall stiff spikes of feathery flowers. They make great accent plants, border plants or cut flower. 'Kobold' is a tall purple flowered selection. They prefer well drained soils.

Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage) Zone 4
Prefers full sun. It has small, gray-green, fragrant foliage on stiff woody stems and lavender-blue spikes. It's long blooming producing a nice cloud-like effect. Makes great combinations with a lot of perennials. P. atriplicifolia 'Little Spire' is a much shorter selection.

Polemonium caeruleum 'Blue Pearl' (Jacob's Ladder) Zone 4
Prefers a sunny to part shade area. Leaflets arranged in a ladder-like pattern. Flower colors in blue-pink or white. A recent release with variegated leaves is 'Brise d'Anjou' Good for a front border or cut flower.

'Indian Summer' rudbeckia Photo credit:
All-American
Rudbeckia hirta (Black-eyed Susan) Zone 4
A short-lived perennial wildflower. Great for floral gardens, roadsides and mixed borders. Thrives in full sun. Great for butterflies.

Sedum (Stonecrop) Zone 3
Prefers sunny location but may tolerate partial sun. Great selections for rock gardens and groundcovers. Spreads rapidly and tolerates poor soils. Are easy to grow and long lived. Good addition for a fall garden e.g. 'Autumn joy'. 'Neon' is a recent release with purplish pink flowers. (Ed. note: the genus has changed to Hylotelephium.)

Solidago (Goldenrod) Zone 4
Solidago rugosa 'Fireworks' has radiating golden flowers while 'Golden Fleece' is more compact. Prefers sunny locations. Great fall colors and is an excellent nectar source.

Silphium perfoliatum (Cupplant) Zone 4
Prefers full to partial sun. Needs a large garden - reaches six to nine feet tall each season and has one-foot long leaves that form a cup at the base of the stalk which birds like to frequent after a rain.

Russian sage and stonecrop Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis

Sempervivum (Hens and Chicks) Zone 3
Prefers a sunny location and well drained.

Thalictrum (Meadow rue). Zone 3
Grows in sunny to partial shade locationsand has fine-textured foliage. Combines well with delphiniums.

Ornamental grasses:
Ornamental grasses are tolerate of drought, wetness, and fluctuating winter temperatures. They require minimum inputs of fertilizer and are useful for sustainable landscapes. Although some tolerate shade, most grasses require full sun. Some are adapted to wet soils, but most require a well-drained soil.

Calamagrostis (Feather Reed Grass) Zone 4
Can grow in sunny or part sunny locations. C. acutiflora 'Karl Forester' or feather reed grass has become quite popular and has great winter interest.

Miscanthus (Maiden Grass) Zone 4
M. sinensis 'Purpurescens' and M. sinensis 'Silberfeder' grows well in zone 4 prefering sunny locations or part sun. M. sinensis 'Silberfeder' bears the showiest flowers of the species. Large, shining white plumes emerge in August and persist throughout the fall.

You are Invited to UMore Park's Open House
Barbara Stendahl, Dakota County Master Gardener Coordinator

Gazebo decked in marroon and gold.
Garden scene. Photo credits: Barb Stendahl
After more than 50 years of ownership, the University of Minnesota Outreach Research and Education Park invites you to the first public Open House. Save the date of Thursday, July 22 from 4:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. for this free event including:

¤Tours of the Master Gardener Education and Research Display Garden, classes on butterfly gardening, prairie gardening, weed identification and Minnesota trees, demonstrations, Junior Master Gardener activities for children, refreshments and more

¤Wagon tours of field crop research with U of M faculty presentations

¤ Information on the Lone Rock Trail, a new 11 mile horse riding, hiking and cross country ski trail at UMore Park

¤The U of M Raptor Center will exhibit live birds, including an eagle

¤ Presentations on the history of UMore Park, including the Army's Gopher Ordnance Works

Directions to UMore Park:

From the St. Paul area, take Highway 52 south to County Road 46(160th St. West) at the southern edge of the town of Coates. Take Highway 46 west about 4 miles.

From Minneapolis, take Highway 35W south to the Crosstown Highway 62. Travel east on 62 to Cedar Avenue and exit south towards the Mall of America. Passing the Mall, continue south about 11 miles to County Road 46 (160th St.W.). Turn east on 160th St. West and travel 6 miles to the garden. Look for the large golden "M".
Mapquest map of Umore Park locatiom

Plant Easy Care Daylilies
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

'Ruby Stella' -repeat bloomer. Photo credit: Ferguson Caras
This is an excellent time to think about adding daylilies to your landscape. You may have seen them recommended for shady locations, but you need to be careful. They'll survive in shade, but you're unlikely to get much blooming unless it is very light shade. To insure prolific bloom, plant your daylilies where they receive direct sunlight for five or six hours, minimum.

Though not particularly fussy about soil, daylilies – like the vast majority of flowering perennials – will grow best when soil drains well. Incorporate generous amounts of compost, well-rotted cattle or sheep manure, or baled peat into your soil at planting time. You'll improve both its drainage and aeration – the ability to hold air and oxygen that help roots stay healthy. Don't add sand to the soil, though. While it helps drainage, it actually reduces soil aeration, so is counter-productive.

As for fertilizer, it's always a good idea to have your soil tested at the U, then add the amount recommended before you plant – especially if you're uncertain about the nutrient status of the soil. If you wait until after you've planted your daylilies you can always work fertilizer around them, but you you'll need to apply liquid fertilizer to get it deep in the soil, beneath the roots.

Timing

Plant mail-order bare-root daylilies the day after they arrive. First trim off any damaged roots, and soak the remaining root system in room temperature water over night. Potted daylilies are so tough you can plant them whenever it's convenient – spring through early autumn. Right now is just fine. You can plant them before they send up flower stems or wait to buy them until they're blooming and you can see their exact color. Of course, the longer you wait, the more limited your choices will be at your local nursery or garden center. On the other hand, flowering perennials are often on sale as summer wears on; you may be able to pick up some excellent bargains.

Daylily. Photo credit: Deb Brown
While it's tempting to choose several different daylily cultivars, you'll make the biggest visual impact in your garden by planting groups of three or more identical plants. Or, if you're patient you can start with one of each, then plan to divide them as the clumps grow larger. Given good growing conditions, they'll expand rapidly, allowing you to divide and replant them every three or four years.

The best time to divide daylilies is early in spring or right after they finish blooming. Be sure to mulch newly divided or transplanted daylilies well, once soil freezes in November. This will protect them not only from winter's cold – the obvious enemy – but from risky early warm ups that are often followed by a return to the "deep freeze." Established daylilies usually don't need winter mulch, though it's always a good idea to rake dry leaves over them each fall.

Care in the garden

Daylilies require minimal care in the garden. Groom them by removing dead foliage first thing in spring, then fertilize them lightly. Give them a good, thorough soaking once a week when weather is hot and dry. Nip off any seed pods that start to develop, so the plants don't waste energy on seed production. And finally, cut down the flower stems once each has ceased blooming. They'll just turn an unattractive brown, anyway.

Mulch your daylilies with two to three inches of dry grass clippings, chipped leaves, pine needles, or other organic matter to help prevent weeds and conserve moisture.

Daylily. Photo credit: Deb Brown
Hardiness

Most daylilies are reliably hardy throughout the state, but some of the older evergreen or semi-evergreen cultivars developed in the south may be questionable. Purchase your daylilies locally, either at garden centers or from mail-order catalogs based in Minnesota or other northern states. If you order from a southern daylily grower, make certain you check on the hardiness of any cultivars you choose. They must be hardy to USDA zone 4 in the southern half of the state, and zone 3 in the northern half.

 Cankered Pagodas
Janna Beckerman, Extension Plant Pathologist

Pagoda dogwood. Photo Credit: Jeff Hahn

The pagoda dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) is one of the most beautiful, native trees. It is unsurpassed in terms of ornamental value in the landscape: It has an unusual horizontal branching structure that gives it a layered affect; fragrant, creamy white flowers appear in June that develop into bright fruit, and handsome bark that looks beautiful against the winter snow (Fig. 1). This understory tree performs best in light shade with moist, cool, acidic soils. When properly planted and cared for, the pagoda dogwood has very few disease problems. Unfortunately, this striking tree is often planted in a prominent, sunny location, dooming it to an ugly, early, and unnecessary death.

The key to keeping a pagoda dogwood healthy is location, location, location. As a native understory plant, pagodas thrive in light shade, well-drained soil, with the roots heavily mulched by decaying leaf material. Full sun and lawn, in addition to drought, predispose pagodas to two serious, and potentially fatal diseases: Cryptodiaporthe canker and Phomopsis canker.

A Tale of Two Cankers
Wilted leaves
a symptom of
canker farther down  branch. Photo Credit:
Janna
Beckerman
Pagoda dogwood can be the best of shrubs, or the worst of shrubs, depending where it's been planted. How well (or how poorly) it performs depends upon the opportunity for infection to occur. I say opportunity, because most canker fungi are opportunistic pathogens. These fungi usually infect plants following stress. Some common urban stresses include drought, improper site, and defoliation. The susceptibility of pagoda dogwood to these diseases has led many to conclude that pagoda dogwood is really a long-lived perennial, lasting about 20 years, instead of a small beautiful tree it is capable of becoming when properly sited, planted and maintained. North and East situated trees generally perform better than those trees planted to a Southern or Western exposure.

Golden canker (Cryptodiaporthe corni) is so named because of the color of affected branches. Symptoms often begin with stem dieback due to cankers at the base of affected branches. Infected stems take on a warm, yellow hue. Prune out diseased tissue, cutting 4 to 6 inches below affected areas. Sanitize tools between cuttings to prevent the spread of the pathogen, and dispose of infected branches. To prevent this disease from infecting in the first place, keep the tree well mulched, and watered in times of drought. For more information on golden canker, go to: http://www.uwex.edu/ces/wihort/gardenfacts/X1125.pdf

Erumpent pustules and emerging cirrhi of Phomopsis Photo Credit: Plant Disease Clinic
Phomopsis canker is the less understood of the two cankers, and in recent years in Minnesota, the more common. Symptoms of phomopsis canker infection begin with shoot blight and dieback (Fig. 2). Examination of the affected branch usually reveals a diffuse, pinkish canker covered in black erumpent pustules. Under wet conditions, these pustules produce ribbons of spores termed "cirrhi." This is a key diagnostic sign (Fig. 3).

Every spring and summer, examine your pagoda dogwood for the development of blighted, wilting branches. If cankers are found, prune out infected branches. Maintain good plant health by keeping trees well watered and mulched. If you are thinking of purchasing a pagoda dogwood, make sure you can plant it in a Northern, or Eastern facing site. Site, regular watering, and mulching goes a long way in protecting a pagoda dogwood from an avoidable, and potentially deadly disease problem.

The University of Minnesota is conducting a survey of cankers of pagoda dogwood. Cankers can be sent to:

Stan C. Hokanson
University of Minnesota
Department of Horticultural Science
258 Alderman Hall
1970 Folwell Avenue
St. Paul, MN 55108

Please check out the new diagnostics web pages at
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/diagnostics/


Leaf Galls
Jeffrey Hahn, Assist. Extension Entomologist

Spindle galls (top)
Butternut erineum, Birch erineum galls (bottom) Photos: Jeff Hahn
>
Hedgehog gall. Photo credit:
Marlene Sternberger
Insect and mite-induced galls are abnormal plant growths resulting from the interaction of insects or mites. Galls are generally formed in spring when leaves are first developing. When insects or mites lay eggs or feed, leaves are stimulated to produce a proliferation of cells at the site of the attack. Galls can assume many colors, shapes, and sizes. Each species of gall maker produces an unique gall. It is important to recognize galls as they can be confused with disease or abiotic problems. There have been a number of interesting galls seen this year.

One of the more common galls noticed has been spindle galls. Also known sometimes as finger galls, they are produced by tiny eriophyid mites. These galls appear as slender projections on the upper surface of leaves, standing up to 1/2 inch high. They are usually reddish or greenish in color. Spindle galls have been common on plum this year. You can also find them on maple, cherry, elm, and linden.

Another common type of gall is erineum or velvet galls. These are carpet-like growths found on the upper surface of leaves. They are often a bright red, although they can also be cream colored. Theses galls have been particularly noticed on birch but they can also be found on maple, viburnum, and linden. These galls are also caused by eriophyid mites.

A similar gall was sighted on butternut. It is also a type of erineum gall produced by eriophyid mites and forms a mass of short hair-like structures. However, instead of red galls, these growths form dark brown some what puckered galls on the upper leaf surface. Underneath, it is whitish.

Oaks have the highest number of different kinds of galls on it. A particularly striking gall is the hedgehog gall found on burr and white oak. This gall is oval, spiny, and is as large as 1/2 inch long. It is bright yellow, orange or red. It is common to find them on major leaf veins. Unlike previous galls, hedgehog galls are produced by very small cynipid (sin-IP-id) wasps, a group of gall-making wasps.

Despite the appearance of leaf galls, they are not dangerous to trees and have essentially no impact on tree health. No treatment is necessary and they should be ignored.

Get the low down on this month's insect pests at Insects http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/EntWeb/Ent.htm


July Garden Tips
Beth Jarvis, Yard & Garden Line

Blueberries. Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis
Compiled from conversations with Dave Hanson, Urban Forestry, Bob Mugaas and Bob Olson, Regional Extension Educators

(These recommendation are based on Twin Cities temperatures. Adjust for northern Minnesota..)

Lawns:
Avoid broadleaf herbicde applications during hot weather (over 85 F -but check label). Mow high to shade grass and promote deep rooting Water occasionally during extended hot, dry periods. Hold off for another month, until mid-August, on any lawn renovation projects.

Flowers
Remove faded flowers (deadhead) from peonies, columbine and other perennials so all photosynthates will be preserved for future growth. Otherwise, some will be frittered away on developing unwanted seeds. Deadhead roses and annuals, such as geraniums, to encourage new blooms.

Weed , mulch and water as needed. Plants in bloom use a lot of water, as flowers are mostly water.

Trees and Shrubs:
Water trees! Trees need at least one inch of rainfall each week May through July and a little less in August and September.

Ease off on tree and shrub fertilizers now. From mid-July on, woody plants are starting the very slow process of preparing for winter. Adequate soil moisture is key to ensuring the woody plants harden off for winter.

Do not fertilize trees right now with a high nitrogen fertilizer that will prompt growth. Slow release, low-dose nitrogen fertilizer would be ok if needed.

The high risk period for oak wilt has passed. However, there is still some risk, so avoid pruning oaks until fall if at all possible. If you must prune, use latex paint or shellac on the wound *immediately* afterward.

Vegetables:
Weed and water is the name of the game .

If you see diseased leaves on plants, remove them and destroy them. Sanitation is one of the best ways to prevent the spread of disease. Also, don't walk through the garden when the soil is wet, even from dew, as it can spread disease.

Now is the time to think about planting new crops for a fall harvest. If you've opened up some space, here's the list of plants that can yet be harvested before a hard freeze: hPlanting Vegetables in Midsummer for Fall Harvest

Fruit:
Compass cherry plum Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis
If you started a spray program, stick with it.

Lots of fruit crops are coming ripe now--blueberries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, cherries...so make sure the plants are getting adequate moisture. Give the plants 1" of water per week, including rainfall amounts.

Apple trees, both fruiting and ornamental are suffering from apple scab this year. It's not as bad as last year but it is out there. See the apple Scab brief at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/p220applescab.html

Cedar apple rust is another common apple disease we're seen this year. Read about it at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/p222cedarapple.html

Prune out raspberry canes as soon as they set the summer fruit crop.

Bird netting can be applied over fruit crops to reduce bird damage.

Flowers
You can start dividing overgrown iris clumps now. http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1113.html

Remove faded flowers from peonies, columbine and other perennials so all photosynthates will be preserved for future growth. Otherwise, some will be frittered away on developing unwanted seeds.

Deadhead roses and annuals, such as geraniums, to encourage new blooms.

Editorial Notes

Coreopsis. Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis
Summer seems to be whipping by! But even winter goes quickly when one is busy. As gardeners we could spend all of our free time outside if we had not other obligations. I'll be picking blueberries for a long time this summer. Friends with raspberries in a good sunny sitte are picking pints upon pints of raspberries daily. After picking comes processing. I rather enjoy making jam, but this year, I'll probably make more pickles.

In an upcoming issue, Anne Gachuhi will write about landscaping in small spaces. There are some other ideas in the works.

Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.

Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/.

For plant and insect questions, visit http://www.extension.umn.edu/askmg. Thousands of questions have been answered, so try the search option in the black bar at the top left of the board for the fastest answer.

Deb Brown answers gardening questions on Minnesota Public Radio's (MPR) "Midmorning" program on the first Thursday of every month at 10 a.m. The program is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations.

If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to: listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist or to unsubscribe, enter: unsub yglnewslist


Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator


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