Yard & Garden Line News
Volume 4 Number 11                                                               July 15, 2002
Features this issue:
 Waterlogged Plants
Tree-ting Storm Damage
Repairing Temporarily Submerged or Flooded Lawns
Where Have the Vegetable Flowers Gone?
Air Dry Flowers for Winter Bouquets
Editorial Notes


Waterlogged Plants
Patrick Weicherding, Regional Extension Educator, Metro District
flood damage Shrubs dead as high as water rose. Note tall shrubs in back.
Photo credit: P. Weicherding
Most of Minnesota has experienced excessive rains, which have resulted in waterlogged soils and flooding. It is important to understand what is happening to plants growing in these conditions and what to expect later. It is a wait-and-see situation. Many herbaceous plants are experiencing injury symptoms now. Visible injury symptoms on trees and shrubs may not occur for a year or more.

Injury symptoms. Injury symptoms, which vary according to several factors, include decreased growth of shoots and roots, decreased transpiration rate, leaf chlorosis (yellowing), leaf epinasty (twisting), leaf abscission (drop), death of roots, increased susceptibility to attack by insects and pathogens, absence of fruiting, and death.

The main reason for injury relates to oxygen availability in the soil. In flooded or waterlogged soils, oxygen diffuses slowly and drops in concentration to a few percent or to zero. As oxygen is excluded from roots, there is decreased aerobic root respiration, root growth, transpiration, and translocation. Indirectly, the plant can be poisoned by toxic substances, such as ethylene, produced in the strongly reducing environment that occurs when anaerobic processes take over.

Factors influencing survival.
Survival is directly related to a species tolerance of waterlogged soils. Research has been done on the tolerance of different tree species to flooding (see below for previous articles on flooding and its effects on trees). In general, hardwoods tolerate waterlogged soils better than conifers.

Plant survival may also be soil dependent. Plants growing in well-drained alluvial soils survive better than those in fine-textured, shallow soils. Soils high in clay content drain too slowly, while sandy soils may erode away from the roots.

The timing, duration, and depth of the water have a direct effect on plant survival. Plant injury is generally worse if soils are waterlogged during the growing season. Some species can survive temporary soil saturation or partial inundation, but few temperate species can survive indefinite periods of even partial flooding. Plant injury increases merely as soil saturation progresses, due to oxygen deficiency. There is a difference in survival rate, depending on the species, among plants completely inundated, those partially inundated, and those growing in saturated soils. Additionally, complete inundation, depending on the depth, may result in decreased light intensity and stomatal function.

For plants growing in flood areas, the state of the floodwater is important. Stagnant water contains no oxygen and is therefore worse for plants than flowing water. In flowing water, more oxygen is mixed uniformly through the water - although the soil water still contains no oxygen. Flowing water may cause plants to bend, break, uproot, or become buried. Woody stem tissue on the leeward side may be damaged in flowing water by floating debris. Water temperature is a concern for some plants, such as turf, which essentially "cook" in extremely warm waters.

Finally, the age and size of woody plants influence their survival in waterlogged soils. Mature, vigorous individuals suffer less flood damage than seedlings or over-mature specimens of the same species. Plants established for two growing seasons or more before the flood have a better chance of survival.

What to do now. Unfortunately, little can be done to prevent damage to plants growing in waterlogged soils. For information on pathogens that are common in wet soils conditions, consult earlier issues of this newsletter. If a woody plant shows injury symptoms such as leaf drop, do not immediately replace it. Some plants show initial injury symptoms and then recover. Many woody and herbaceous plants, including turf areas will not recover. Be patient. Whether your plants are simply waterlogged or actually growing in flooded areas, it will take a while before you see the full extent of the damage.

Other reading:
Trees and Shrubs for the Drainage-Challenged Landscape
http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLN-Apr1599.html#drainage
Water Stress in Trees and Shrubs
http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLN-Aug1500.html#stress
Flood Damage Effects On Trees
http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLN-Apr1501.html#flood

Tree-ting Storm Damage
Janna Beckerman, Extension Plant Pathologist
Lightning strike on cottonwood. Photo credit:
Janna Beckerman
To paraphrase Hobbes*, life for Minnesota trees is often cruel, brutish and short. In addition to bitter winters (with damaging ice and heavy, wet snows) and scorching summers, trees have to contend with storm damage for all but the coldest months. Most of the time, damage consists of a few broken branches. However, severe weather may result in severe damage, such as splitting of branches or even stem forks, trunk breakage, or uprooting. These injuries not only result in a change in the appearance of the tree but a dramatic change in the home landscape, as well. Tree health and tree appearance go hand in hand. Injury of any sort increases a tree's susceptibility to insect or disease attack. For this reason, it is important that damage is properly treated and repairs be made to maintain tree health. Although many types of damage may be treated by the homeowner, large trees, or severely damaged trees may require the services of a tree specialist.

Recognizing the Damage:
Uprooted Trees
One of the most dramatic images that appear in the wake of thunderstorms is that of the uprooted tree. And, it's easy to diagnose! Although this has been said many times by many agencies, it bears repeating: If the tree is large, it cannot be saved and should be removed promptly. The scenario isn't as clear for smaller trees (less than 25' tall) and if 1/3 to 1/2 of the tree's roots are still in the soil. Although costly, for a valued tree, it may be possible to straighten the tree, and then brace it using guy wires or cables. Significant cost may be incurred if cranes or other equipment is needed to pull the tree upright. Remove soil from beneath the root ball to place the roots below the existing soil grade level. Backfill the soil to stabilize the tree (Do not plant too deeply!) and water to remove air pockets. Place guy lines to the trunk at approximately two-thirds of the height of the tree and to anchors 12 to 15 feet from the base to hold the tree in place until it is established. For more information, see Staking and Guying of Trees at: http://fr.cfans.umn.edu/extension/urban_com/StakeandGuyBestMaterialsandTechniques.html

Lightning
exit wound Lightning exit wound. Photo credit:
Janna Beckerman
Tall trees, like cottonwood growing in open locations are very susceptible to lightning strikes. Lightning strikes on trees are a common sight during the summer months when thunderstorms occur. Symptoms of lightning damage include trees that burst into flame or explode (easy to diagnose), bark that is usually stripped off the tree in a spiral fashion, or extensive root damage as the lightning has exited the tree (not easy to diagnose). Lightning has been known to kill trees immediately; others, even though damaged extensively, will continue to grow. Further confounding a diagnosis of lightning injury is that trees may appear normal immediately following the strike but die soon after for no apparent reason, although this occurrence suggests that root damage due to the lightning strike resulted in tree death.

Treatment of lightning-damaged trees depends on the severity of the strike. Again, evaluate the damage and decide if it is necessary to remove damaged limbs. Because it may take weeks for all the damage to develop, delay any repairs (unless hazard is involved) for at least 6 months. Because tall trees are predisposed to lightening strikes, you may wish to install a lightning rod as a preventative measure to guard against future strikes.

Even if lightning damage isn't obvious immediately after the storm, the voltage from lightning striking one tree can "jump" to adjacent trees if their branches are touching or if they're located close to each other (within 20 feet). Common symptoms of lightning jumps include sudden wilting, leaf death, prolific leaf fall, or sudden death, and can occur on trees several feet or trees away from the lightning strike.

Rating the Damage
Most storms only inflict minor damage, with little or no permanent damage to the tree. However, certain trees consistently fail in these storms, and include some of our most common street trees, like silver maple and green ash, in addition to willows and poplars. These rapidly growing trees are particularly susceptible to storm damage and homeowners should avoid planting these trees close to homes or utility lines. If these trees are already growing in these locations and are showing signs of weaknesses, homeowners may wish to consider removal to eliminate any chance of damage to their homes. Current research done in Rochester, NY, evaluating the effect of preventative pruning to prevent damage to trees did not show a significant differences for storm failure between pruned and non-pruned trees!

split maple Storm-damaged silver maple. Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis

Spring storms, although potentially just as severe as summer storms, usually produce less damage to trees that haven't yet leafed out. Branch and tree failure rates are higher when foliage is present on the tree, or if the tree had a previously unidentified structural defect. Severe damage consists of large broken branches, split crotches, and splintering or splitting of the trunk. Trees like this need to be quickly evaluated to determine if they are hazard trees (To do so, read the US Forest Service Publication "How to Recognize Hazardous Defects in Trees at: http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_haz/ht_haz.htm )

What do you do if a tree is severely damaged? The first step you need to take is evaluate the type and nature of the damage. Are there cracks, split branch unions, splintering or topping? A beloved spruce will recover from topping but will take decades to recover, and will probably never obtain the pyramidal form one expects from spruces. Before doing anything, objectively analyze the tree, the site and the situation. Be sure to take into account what species of tree it is, how old it is, where the tree is growing and the value it adds to the property. Sentimental value should not be overlooked, but taken only as part of the total equation in determining if a tree is worth saving. Sentimental value must also be weighed against the possibility of additional damage occurring to the tree in future storms, or the tree becoming a hazard. Finally, remember that any injury is a potential infection court for future disease! If you are not sure about what to do regarding your tree's fate, consult with a professional arborist, urban forester or other tree service professional to obtain a second opinion.

After weighing the future of the tree, it may be decided that the tree is damaged beyond repair, that the cost to repair the tree exceeds the value of the tree, or quite simply, that the tree is too ugly to tolerate. In the case of large trees, remove the tree as soon as possible to prevent possible injury or damage.

Tree-tment
If you have made the decision to repair the damage to the tree, the next step is to decide if you can repair the tree yourself or if require professional assistance. Keep in mind that major repairs will require the use of ladders, climbing equipment and very sharp tools like handsaws and chainsaws. This is a dangerous combination on the ground and becomes even more so when working off the ground, and especially so if power lines are involved.

To find a certified arborist in your area, visit the International Society of Arboriculture or call 217-355-9411.

For more information on pruning: How to Prune Trees (http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_prune/prun001.htm)
Pruning Trees and Shrubs (http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG0628.html)

Weak Branch Unions and Split Forks

included bark Included bark. Photo credit:
U  of MN Ext.  Service
Weak branch unions where branches are attached to a tree by a narrow angle with included bark. Certain trees (dwarf fruit trees, elm and maple) have a greater tendency to produce these types of branches. This narrow angle branch can also occur when bark grows between the branches, inside the union. This included bark is lacking structural strength, and may act as a wedge, forcing the branch union to split. Research on tree damage in wind storms conducted at the University of Minnesota since 1994 has shown that multiple leaders with included bark attachments, or any branch attachment with included bark, are the most common, pre-existing conditions associated with branch failures.

Early identification of forking, and tree stabilization is recommended to prevent complete breakage. There are two methods of stabilization: Cabling and bracing. Cabling is really recommended as a preventative measure. Bracing is rarely recommended any more due to the invasive nature and potential to encourage decay. Neither is ever recommended if the split/failure has occurred. Both function to create artificial support for structurally weak or injured trees and branches. Mechanical supports like these lessen the likelihood of prevent crotch and branch breakage, and subsequent stem decay. It must be stressed that some structurally weak trees (green ash, silver maple, cottonwoods) do not benefit as much from cabling or bracing. If the split has just begun and is relatively even, split portions can be held together and secured by steel bolt or threaded screw rod placed through the split section. If the split is severe, and the split portions cannot be held together, remove the more damaged or weaker branch by proper pruning methods, such as the drop crotch cut [How to Prune Trees (http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_prune/prun001.htm)]

Such severe pruning will require additional pruning to improve the aesthetic appearance of the tree. Do not paint wounds unless the tree in question is an oak or American elm, and the damage has occurred during oak wilt or Dutch elm disease infection period. Although the theory behind these practices is sound, to date, there is no published evidence that preventive practices such as bracing, or cabling reduces the potential of branch failure due to storm damage. Finally, it must be stressed that a tree with an existing crack and bracing installed after the fact is just an advertisement for a high-risk tree, and a magnet for liability lawyers.

After the removal, repair and/or cleanup of storm-damaged trees, you may wish to add new trees to your landscape. For a list of storm resistant trees and more information of storm damage, read "Trees and Ice Storms: The development of ice storm resistant urban trees" (http://www.ag.uiuc.edu/~vista/pdf_pubs/ICESTORM.PDF)
For more information on storm damage, go to: Storm Damage to Landscape Trees: Prediction, Prevention,Treatment

Storms over the urban forest
For a tutorial on preventing storm damage:

Finally, we would be remiss not to mention the brief on flooding and trees. This brief can be found at:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/p465floodstress.html
Thanks to Gary Johnson for websites suggestions and additional assistance. *Hobbes=philosophic, stuffed tiger, of Calvin & Hobbs cartoon strip see: http://www.ucomics.com/calvinandhobbes/1991/07/01/
Please check out the new diagnostics web pages at
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/diagnostics/

Repairing Temporarily Submerged or Flooded Lawns
Bob Mugaas, Regional Extension Educator, Metro Region
Brian Horgan, Extension Turfgrass Specialist
flooded yard Sandbags hold water
back.
Photo credit:
U of MN Extension Service.
Once the top priorities of securing and recovering one's home and personal belongings after being partially or completely flooded is well under way, attention turns to cleaning up the yard. Once the soil has dried sufficiently such that it is no longer soggy and slushy underfoot, pick-up and remove debris such as wood, glass, stones, sheet metal, paper products and along with other forms of junk deposited by flood waters. It is even good to remove thick layers of leaves or other debris that can smother the grass. Debris can also be a safety hazard to people operating lawn equipment as well as damaging the equipment itself. It should be noted that the drying process can take several weeks and assessment of lawn damage and recovery may not be possible until those areas have dried.

Turf problems associated with flooding
Loss of turfgrass during flooded conditions usually results from a lack of oxygen and light. In general, our common lawn grasses will be substantially damaged or killed after four days of being continually submerged. Other conditions that can contribute to turfgrass damage or death include high water temperatures, silt/sand cover, petroleum-contaminated water and the formation of algae scum.

While lawn grasses may be able to withstand up to 4 days of being under water without suffering serious injury, one very important consideration is the aspect of ponding. Ponding usually occurs in areas where water drains very slowly and a "pool" of shallow water can remain for several days. Ponded areas may also occur where floodwaters have receded but some of the water may become trapped in little valleys and depressions and not continue to flow back into the stream or river channel. These areas will often need renovation or reestablishment work to restore the lawn.

Under bright sunny conditions, excessive heat can build up in these ponded areas causing rapid and usually fatal injury to the grass. This condition occurs most commonly during intense summer rainfall events where several inches of rain falls repeatedly over an area. The flooding, ponding and even just saturated soil conditions that follow these storms coupled with sunny, hot conditions, even for just a few hours can cause major turf injury and loss.

Lawns covered with less than 1 inch of silt and submerged less than 4 days
Once the lawn area has dried and where silt deposits are less than an inch and a majority of the lawn has begun to actively grow as evidenced by a new green grass blades appearing, the area should be thoroughly aerified. Go over the lawn about 3 times with a core type aerifier. This will help improve overall soil structure, oxygen levels and encourage recovery during the fall season. The lawn area should be aerified again in early September and probably again in the spring of 2003. Core aerification can be one of the most important and beneficial operations conducted where silt deposits are less than an inch and water has not ponded long enough to cause substantial death of the lawn.

Overseeding can also be done at the time of aerification being sure that good seed to soil contact is achieved. To prepare a smooth seed bed, break up the aerification cores with a lawn rake or power rake (i.e. vertical mower).

core areator Core aerator. Photo credit:
U of MN Extension Service.
Lawns covered with more than an inch of silt and/or submerged more than 4 days
Rushing floodwaters can carry substantial amounts of soil. As the water slows and begins to recede large amounts of silt and fine sand can be deposited on lawn surfaces, especially those adjacent to stream and riverbeds. Soil deposits in excess of an inch should be scraped or washed from the lawn surface prior to any renovation being undertaken. This will also help remove any petroleum or other floodwater pollutants that may have a more lasting detrimental effect on the lawn as their concentrations are completely unknown.

If the lawn area is nearly to completely buried with inches of silt, then the best renovation strategy may be to accept that the majority of the lawn has already been severely damaged or killed and it will be necessary to reestablish a "new" lawn. Reestablishing a lawn should begin by removing the excess silt as completely as possible to avoid problems of soil layering in the new lawn. This should be followed by proper soil preparation practices whether the lawn is to be seeded or sodded. See Seeding and Sodding Home Lawns for more information on seeding or sodding a new lawn. If there is any silver lining to these devastating summer time events, it is that mid-August to early September is the best time of the year for starting a new lawn from seed or overseeding an existing lawn. Sodding can be done successfully throughout the growing season.

Where soil removal is not possible, rototill the area thoroughly mixing the soil deposits from the floodwater with the existing soil and dead turfgrass cover. This will help restore more uniform soil conditions creating a better environment for grass to reestablish. It is especially important to break up the old sod cover in this tilling operation.

Another problem that may be encountered with silt deposits is the introduction of potentially new and different weeds to the lawn. Therefore, it may be necessary to use pre- and/or post-emergence herbicides where appropriate during the reestablishment process. Make sure to follow labeled recommendations when using an herbicide.

While dealing with the lawn may be the very least of one's water problems this spring, those needing to repair their lawn can do so once the soil has sufficiently dried. For additional information on repairing lawns, see: Lawn Renovation.

Where Have the Vegetable Flowers Gone?
Beth Jarvis, Yard & Garden Line
squash flower Female flower on left, male flower on right.
Photo credit: Beth Jarvis
Gardeners in Minnesota have reported uneven fruit set in some garden crops. Peppers, tomatoes and squash are common problem plants. It appears the spike in summer's heat may have been the reason.

Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and potatoes are all members of the plant family Solanaceae, the nightshade family. (Chinese lanterns/tomatillos/ground cherries are also members as are belladonna, nightshade weeds, Jimson weed, tobacco and the annual nicotiana.)

Peppers:
What does temperature have to do with poor pepper set? Peppers are frost sensitive so they should be the very last thing to go into the garden in spring. Putting them out too early, before the soil's warmed, may inhibit their development. However, they will tolerate warm weather better than their tomato cousins. A pepper's idea of ideal weather is 68-77°F and peppers grow better with night time temperatures that don't exceed 68°F. Small fruited cultivars are more tolerant of temperature extremes.

Peppers do not respond to day length but simply begin to bloom 30 to 60 days after planting and it usually takes a month for a blossom to turn into a full size pepper.

It won't matter how many bees you have around because peppers are self pollinators. Pollen production is adversely affected, resulting in unfertilized flowers, at temperature under 60.8°F or over 89.6°F.

Even watering is important to peppers because, even though they're somewhat drought tolerant, moisture stress during flowering may cause small fruit or flowers to drop off.

Tomatoes:
For heavy fruit set in tomatoes, night temperature is more important than day temperature. Tomatoes like wide swings in temperatures day to night with 77-86°F days and 60.8°F to 68°F night as optimal. Fruit set is poor when temperatures hit over 86°F or below 59°F. If night temperatures exceed 75°F or daytime temperatures reach 100°F+, tomatoes will drop blossoms or not set fruit.

High temperatures raise havoc with tomato flower fertilization by not only reducing pollen production but also reducing the viability of the ovule (plant ovary). Poor pollination can be a culprit for poor fruit for some crops but not tomatoes or their cousins.

flower drawing Illustration from: Botany For Gardeners,
Brian Capon
If your botany's a bit rusty, think of the female flower parts as a bud vase. The ovule, which becomes the fruit is the bowl of the vase, the neck is the style and the stigma is the mouth of the vase. Pollen has to land on the stigma, germinate and grow down the style to the ovule for pollination to occur. Tomatoes have perfect flowers which means the flowers have both male and female flower parts. With many perfect flowers, the staminate, or male flower parts are those things that look like swamp cattails or hotdogs on a stick. The anther is the hotdog and the filament is the stick. They generally surround the pistilate or female flower parts-- the bud vase. With tomatoes, the anthers have partially fused and actually form an arch over the stigma, which makes it pretty hard for a tomato flower to not get pollinated, because the pollen is right there. In fact, if you want to help pollinate your tomatoes, all you have to do is to shake them a little bit. It's important to have healthy tomato plants at the time of fruit set because once the fruit starts to form, the plants' resources will be routed mainly to the fruit. Small, under-developed plants don't yield well.

Squash:
Squash, pumpkins, melons, cucumbers are all related and referred to as cucurbits. Most of them have separate male and female flowers, produced on the same plant (monoecious). Because the ovary of the female flower develops into the fruit–cucumber, zucchini, etc. you can generally easily tell the female flowers because they're attached to a miniature fruit. People sometimes think there's something wrong with a squash that drops small fruit. It's simply a female flower that was not pollinated. Unlike tomatoes, cucurbits are insect pollinated.

Cucurbits generally produce male flowers first, followed by the female flowers. Generally there are more males flowers than female flowers, possibly as many as 25:1, depending on species.

Plant hormones affect flower production and these hormones can be affected by weather. Warm days and long days prompt males flower production while cooler temperatures and shorter days favor female flower production, but, obviously, there is some overlap as we are generally richly blessed with cucumbers and summer squash.

No, it's not your imagination, summer squash plants, like zucchini, do produce more fruit than winter squash. For maximum yield from cucumbers and summer squash, pick early and often.

Air Dry Flowers for Winter Bouquets
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist
dried flowers
Photo credit:  Deb Brown
If you are among the fortunate people whose gardens didn't get flooded or drowned out by repeated downpours, your flowers were probably beautiful this summer. Why not preserve some of them for winter bouquets and arrangements? Air drying is easiest, but it results in an attractive finished product only with certain specific flowers. All other methods (silica gel, glycerine, microwaving) require a fair amount of practice to develop the skills necessary to do a good job. All you need to do to air dry flowers is strip off the leaves, then hang them in small bunches upside-down from metal clothes hangers. Use rubber bands to hold their stems together and attach them to the hangers. If you want stems that arch gracefully, make a vase-like cylinder of hardware cloth (metal mesh) or chicken wire and prop the flowers upright in it to dry. Either way, keep the flowers in a well-ventilated, dark location till they're ready to use. The colors will be more muted than when they were fresh, but not as faded as they would be, dried in a lighted location. Favorite flowers for air drying include globe amaranth, larkspur, goldenrod, mealycup sage (blue sage), celosia, yarrow, and statice. Pick them for drying before they're completely open. Flowers that are too mature will often shatter in the drying process. Grains and grasses also air dry easily.

Editorial Notes

ball and chain Floriade
Photo credit:  Beth Jarvis
The continuing, heavy rains and resulting flood-related topics bumped Nancy Rose's piece on recent and potential woody plant introductions to next issue. It will run August 1.

Travel is educational. While in the Netherlands, I learned how the Dutch keep their trees home and don't let them go flying off in a storm. Just kidding. It's art from Floriade, the once a decade floral exposition. If I remember correctly, this ball and chain was one of several done in protest of the trees that were felled on this year' s Floriade site.

Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.

Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/. Our home page has clickable links to most of the components of the Yard & Garden Line, such as Bell Museum of Natural History, INFO U and the Soil Testing Lab.

Deb Brown answers gardening questions on Minnesota Public Radio's (MPR) "Midmorning" program on the first Thursday of every month at 10 a.m. Katherine Lanpher hosts the program that is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations.

If you have gardening questions, please call the Yard & Garden Line at (612) 624-4771.

If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to: listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist or to unsubscribe, enter: unsub yglnewslist

Happy gardening!

Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator


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