Yard & Garden Line News Volume 2 Number 11                                                              July 15, 2000

Features this issue: "Poisonous Plants" -- Do They Belong in Your Garden or Landscape? Soil Test Fees Go Up Biological Control of Insect Pests in Garden Settings: Commercially Available Beneficial Insects Dealing With Hail-Damaged Plants False Japanese Beetles Forest Tent Caterpillars Pine False Webworms Masked Hunters Editorial Notes

"Poisonous Plants" -- Do They Belong in Your Garden or Landscape?
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

Pink gas plant.

White gas  plant. Photos: Deb Brown

The subject of "poisonous plants" is a tricky one to discuss. Sometimes people are so alarmed they want to go through their neighborhoods telling everyone to rip out offending plants. However, if your children are young enough to want to taste everything they see, or you take care of youngsters from time to time, it's important to know about certain plants that could pose a threat in your yard.

If, on the other hand, your children or grandchildren are old enough to pay attention when you tell them not to eat any plant parts without checking with you first, you can be more liberal in you use of potentially harmful plants. Because in order to be dangerous, these plants must be eaten, or insome cases, rubbed against. WITHOUT DIRECT, PHYSICAL CONTACT, THEY'RE NODIFFERENT THAN ANY OTHER PLANT IN YOUR HOME OR LANDSCAPE.

It's important to distinguish between plants that can make you sick when you eat them and plants that irritate your skin. Poison ivy is undoubtedly the best known skin irritant. Response to poison ivy generally becomes more serious with each exposure, so most people know enough to steer clear of any woodland plant with leaves in sets of three. But how about the lovely white or lavender-flowering perennial called gas plant (Dictamnus albus or D. albus 'Purpureus')?

You'd never expect trouble from this hardy perennial with its tall spikes of delicate flowers. But if you brush against it, and there's moisture present on your skin -- say on a warm day, when you're perspiring a little -- then you're exposed to sunlight, watch out. Within twenty-four hours your skin will burn and smart; you may develop nasty, long-lasting blisters.

Fortunately, few plants we cultivate are general skin irritants, though there are always some people who may be more sensitive to them than others. The AMA Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants reports that handling trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) may cause dermatitis, but in over twenty years of answering gardening questions, I have yet to come across anyone with this problem.

Similarly, the white, milky sap of several different plants -- including many succulents in the genus Euphorbia -- is known for its irritating qualities, though clearly, not everyone is affected by simple contact.

The plants that concern me more are those that make people physically ill when they eat them. Often, it's the seeds of these plants that are most toxic, while other portions may also be poisonous to a lesser degree. Ultimately, how dangerous eating these plants will be depends not only on the type of plant, BUT HOW MUCH IS INGESTED RELATIVE TO A PERSON'S WEIGHT. That's why small children are particularly at risk. Plus the fact they're far more likely than adults to stick seeds, berries, twigs, or leaves in their mouths!

'Carmencita Pink' castor bean

Monkshood. Photos: Deb Brown

Based on calls we've received at the U, here are a few of the more common toxic plants you should be aware of.

Castor bean (Ricinus communis) is an annual that is grown for its attractive large leaves. It grows rapidly and becomes so large -- perhaps eight to ten feet tall over the summer -- that people plant it to provide screening. However, castor bean seeds can be deadly if chewed and swallowed. Think long and hard before growing this plant. If you decide to plant castor beans, be sure to prune off any flower clusters that develop; no flowers, no seeds! (The leaves are also toxic, but much less so.)

Monkshood (Aconitum species) is an attractive, somewhat shade-tolerant perennial that is both very hardy and very poisonous. It produces tall clusters of blue, purple, pink or blue and white blossoms that look like little hoods or helmets. This plant is so toxic that Perennials for American Gardens by Clausen an Ekstrom suggests "All their part are dangerously poisonous, the roots in particular. Never plant them where children play, near vegetable gardens, or other places where they might be eaten inadvertently."

Angel's trumpet (Datura stramonium or Brugmansia species) also goes by the names Jimson Weed, thorn apple, and devil's trumpet. Typically ivory colored, the long trumpet-shaped blooms are sweetly perfumed. Each is followed by a spiky seed pod filled with small, dark, glossy berries. All parts of this plant are highly toxic. Reportedly, children have been poisoned by sucking nectar from the flowers, eating seeds or making "tea" from the leaves.

Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) is a showy biennial flower that is enjoying renewed popularity. As the species name suggests, it is the source of the cardioactive drug, digitalis. Children may become ill from sucking the flowers or eating leaves or seeds, so it should be planted beyond their easy reach.

Foxglove and angel's trumpet. Photo: Deb Brown

Two plants that are often found is older neighborhoods where people's gardens tend to be shady also belong on this list. They are the woodland wildflower, Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) and the spring-blooming groundcover, Lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis).

While jack-in-the-pulpit roots are unlikely to be eaten, the plants often produce bright red berries that youngsters might find intriguing. Chewing and swallowing these berries can result in severe burning in the throat and mouth, and has been known to cause hospitalization.

All parts of lily-of-the-valley are considered toxic, from the nodding white bells to the red-orange berries that sometimes follow. They contain cardioactive toxins similar to those in foxglove.

No matter how carefully you supervise little children, there's always the possibility that they'll put something in their mouths that they shouldn't. If they eat plant parts outdoors, there are two excellent resources for you to call. In Hennepin County call the HCMC Poison Information Center at 347-3141. Any place else in Minnesota, call Regions Hospital Poison Control Center at 1-800-poison-1.

Soil Test Fees Go Up
Beth Jarvis, Yard & Garden Line

Collecting soil. Photo: Beth Jarvis

The fee for a University of Minnesota Soil Testing Lab's lawn and garden soil test rises to $10 effective July 15. This is the first time in over 10 years that the charge has been increased. Soluble salts/excess salts test remain at $5 and the lead test stays at $15.

Everyone who gardens should test their soil periodically to monitor the soil pH, phosphorus and potassium levels, soil organic matter content and texture. Taking the test is simple; collect soil samples from five spots in the garden or lawn area, mix them in a clean container then send in about two cups for testing.

Forms are available for download from: http://soiltest.coafes.umn.edu/howtosam.htm.

Biological Control of Insect Pests in Garden Settings: Commercially Available Beneficial Insects
George E. Heimpel, Assistant Professor of Entomology

Multicolored Asian lady beetles. Photo: Jeff Hahn

Biological control can be defined as any level of pest or weed suppression caused by predators, parasitoids, or pathogens. This type of suppression may occur naturally or be implemented and used as a management tactic. Three classes of biological control projects are typically recognized: 'classical', 'augmentative', and 'conservation'. In classical (or importation) biological control, natural enemies are imported to control introduced pests. Natural enemies used in classical biological control are usually specific to the pest species against which they are introduced and often only a single or a few releases are needed to establish the natural enemy at effective levels. In augmentative biological control, periodic releases of insectary-reared natural enemies are made to temporarily suppress pest populations. Many of the natural enemies used in augmentative biological control are available commercially, and many of the suppliers are listed at www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/dprdocs/goodbug/organism.htm. Conservation biological control consists of practices aimed at increasing effects of natural enemies that are already present. Specific conservation biological control tactics include limiting the use of insecticides, managing the habitat in ways that favor natural enemies, and providing supplemental foods or attractants for natural enemies.

In this article I will provide a brief overview of some of the beneficial insects that are available for gardeners that want to use augmentative biological control to reduce insecticide use in their gardens. I will concentrate on natural enemies that may be of relevance in the upper midwest region. The beneficial insects are available commercially can be classified as either predatory or parasitic insects. While predators feed on more than one prey individual over their life, parasites can complete their entire life cycle in or on a single host individual. Insects that parasitize other insects are called parasitoids. Below, I will review the life-cycles and prey or hosts of some of the popular insect predators and parasitoids that are currently available commercially.

PREDATORS

Lady beetles (ladybugs). These are familiar insects in the garden, and can be recognized by their domed shape and, in many of the aphid-feeding species, bright red/orange and black coloration. Almost all lady beetles are predatory on pest insects in both the larval and adult stages, with some species specializing on aphids, mites, whiteflies, scale insects or mealybugs. Some species are also generalist feeders that can feed on most small soft-bodies insects, insect eggs, pollen, and nectar. Five species of lady beetles are available commercially:

Hippodamia convergens larva

Hippodamia convergens adult. Photos: Ohio State University

Hippodamia convergens (the convergent lady beetle). This is by far the most widely-available lady beetle in North America. It is a medium sized red lady beetle with black spots and it preys primarily on aphids. Hippodamia convergens overwinters in mass aggregations in the mountains of California and is easily collected by the tens or hundreds of thousands during the winter - the result is that this lady beetle can be purchased by the bag-full in many gardening stores. While releasing these beetles in the garden may provide temporary relief from aphids, they are prone to disperse from release sites rather quickly and rarely provide long-term control.

Harmonia axyridis(the multicolored Asian lady beetle). This species is a bit larger than the convergent lady beetles and exhibits numerous color patterns. While it feeds on aphids and scale insects during the summer, it is considered a pest by some during the winter because of its habit of overwintering in and near houses.Harmonia axyridis is now available commercially and may be of use in controlling aphids in garden settings.

Cryptolaemus montrouzieri (the mealybug destroyer). This lady beetle has a black midsection with brown at the front and rear. Adults are about ¼ inch long. Both adults and larvae feed on mealybugs on houseplants and in greenhouses and other interiorscapes. Reproduction can take place following release, in which case a second generation will occur 1-2 months post-release.

Delphastus pusillus (whitefly-feeding lady beetle). Adults are very small (approx. 1/16 inch long), and shiny black. Both larvae and adults feed on whitefly nymphs and can be quite effective at controlling these pests out-of-doors and in greenhouse settings.

Stethorus punctillum (spider mite destroyer). These lady beetles are similar in appearance to the Delphastus pusillus, but both larvae and adults feed on spider mites.

Green lacewing. Photo:  Ohio State

Lacewings, or goldeneyes. Various species of green lacewings in the genus Chrysoperla are available commercially. The adults are typically ¾ inch long, have long, netlike wings, slender green bodies, and golden eyes. Lacewings are usually sold as eggs or young larvae, and the larvae are voracious aphid predators. Adults of some species eat aphids as well, but others feed mainly on nectar and pollen. One advantage of these aphid predators over the two aphid-feeding lady beetles discussed above is that the stage that is released (larvae), cannot disperse away from the garden very easily. Care must be taken during release, however, to protect eggs from predation and desiccation. One way to do this is to release larvae by first letting eggs hatch at room temperature and then placing larvae directly on aphid-infested plants. As with many biological control agents, it is best to make releases before pests become very abundant, and a few smaller releases spaced out over a number of weeks may be more effective than a single large release.

Aphidoletes aphidimyza (predaceous midges). The larvae of Aphidoletes aphidimyza are tiny (1/4 inch), orange maggots that feed on aphids by puncturing their skin and sucking them dry. The adult midges, which are very slender and fragile, do not feed on aphids and are very short-lived. Aphidoletes aphidimyza are sold as pupae within vermiculite or other moist substrates. The puparia within the substrate can be sprinkled at the base of aphid infested plants and emerging females will lay eggs within the aphid colonies.

Predatory mites. These are tiny (less than 1/64 inch) arachnids (not insects), some of which specialize on feeding on plant-feeding mites, and some of which feed on pest mites as well as on insect eggs and very small soft-bodies insects including scale crawlers and immature thrips. These natural enemies are so small as to be almost microscopic, but they have a very good track record in biological control. The most effective control agents of spider mites are in the genus Phytoseiulus.

Mantids. Often called preying mantids, these insects are sold in egg cases, each of which typically contains about 100 eggs. Juvenile mantids are rather small (approx. ¼ inch), but fully grown mantids are impressive in size (2 - 4 inches long) and general appearance. While these insects are voracious predators in all stages, their usefulness as pest control agents questionable due to their generalized feeding habits - they will feed on beneficial as well as pest insects, and are likely to capture many pollinating insects such as bees and hover flies (which are aphid predators in the larval stage) since they often wait for prey at flowers.

PARASITOIDS (PARASITIC WASPS)

Habrobracon hebetor, a parasitoid. Photo: Jena Johnson

Aphidius mummies. Photo: Ohio State

Dacnusa sp. Photo: George Heimpel

Parasitoids are insects that are parasitic as larvae and free-ranging as adults. Adult females lay eggs on, in, or near host insects and the larvae that hatch from these eggs consume the host. Parasitoids tend to be more specialized than predators, with one species of parasitoid usually attacking a relatively restricted group of host insects. Any host stage (eggs, larvae, pupae, adults) can be attacked, but a given parasitoid species will consistently attack the same host stage and we thus refer to 'egg parasitoids', 'larval parasitoids', etc. In some cases, the host ceases feeding as soon as it is stung, and in other cases, the host continues to feed once it is stung and it is not consumed until it has attained maximum size. Almost all parasitoids are either wasps or flies (sometimes called parasitic wasps and flies, respectively), but only parasitoid wasps are available commercially. Collectively, these parasitoids attack a large number of pest insects, including aphids, various caterpillars and moth and butterfly eggs, leafminers, whiteflies, thrips and mealybugs.

Aphid parasitoids. Aphid parasitoids in the genera Aphidius and Aphelinus are available commercially and all can inflict heavy mortality on aphids. Eggs are placed within the aphid and within 5-10 days, the aphid is killed. Aphids killed by these parasitoids turn into what are known as 'aphid mummies', which are puffy, dry aphid-shaped sacks. These mummies contain the parasitoid pupae and are a tan color for Aphidius species and black for Aphelinus species Aphidius species are larger than Aphelinus species, but none are longer than 3/32 of an inch.

Leafminer parasitoids. A number of leafminer parasitoids are commercially available as well, and these are typically used in greenhouse or other interior settings, but can be employed out of doors as well. They are effective only against leafmining flies in the genus Liriomyza, and not at all against leafmining moths, beetles or sawflies. Species that are available include Opius pallipes, Dacnusa sibirica , and Diglyphus isaea. These are all very small insects (less than 1/16 inch). Opius pallipes and Dacnusa sibirica both sting the leafminer larva and emerge as adults from the leafminer pupa, while Diglyphus isaea both stings and emerges from the larval stage. Thus, while all 3 species can be effective natural enemies of leafmining flies, Diglyphus isaea has a faster generation time. All species are shipped as adults and can simply be released on or near infested plants.

Whitefly parasitoids. The two whitefly parasitoids that are commercially available are both very tiny (less than 1/32 inch). is an extremely effective natural enemy of greenhouse whitefly that is regularly used in greenhouse settings, especially in Europe. Eretmocerus sp. nr. californicus attacks the silverleaf whitefly. Both species are usually shipped as pupae within whiteflies and should be released once adults start to emerge.

Trichogramma wasps: parasitoids of moth and butterfly eggs.

Trichogramma wasps are among the smallest of all insects, with a typical length of about 1/64 of an inch. They truly resemble small specks. All Trichogramma attack the eggs of butterflies or moths and many species have been used with great success in agricultural settings around the world. One advantage of these natural enemies is that, since they attack and kill pest eggs, pests can be eliminated before feeding starts. Trichogramma wasps are shipped as pupae within hosts glued onto pieces of cardstock. The best way to release them is to place them in jars and place the jar into the garden when the wasps start to emerge. The jar should be covered with something that will keep the wasps in before the release such as a piece of paper, and this should be replaced with a screen that allows wasps to exit, but that keeps predators such as ants out during the release. The most useful species for our area are Trichogramma brassicae, which attacks European corn borer and imported cabbage worm eggs, and Trichogramma pretiosum, which attacks cabbage looper eggs.

Leptomastix dactylopii: a mealybug parasitoid. This species attacks the citrus mealybug and is typically used in interiorscape or greenhouse settings. It can be an effective natural enemy and is shipped as adults. This wasp is very small and yellowish brown and it is thought that its action is complementary to that of the mealybug destroyer (Cryptolaemus montrouzieri) discussed above.

Thripobeus semiluteus: a parasitoid of greenhouse thrips. These are tiny parasitoids that attack early-instar thrips and emerge from mid-instars. They are used with some success in California greenhouses and avocado groves, but there is little information on their use in our area.

FURTHER READING:

Comprehensive web site: http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/biocontrol/websites.html

Flint, L. & S.H. Dreistadt 1998. Natural Enemies Handbook: The Illustrated Guide to Biological Pest Control. University of California Press & UC Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Davis CA.

van Driesche, R.G. & T. S. Bellows, Jr. 1996. Biological Control. Chapman & Hall, New York, NY.

Dealing With Hail-Damaged Plants
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

Hail. Photo: Beth Jarvis

It's always a dilemma, trying to decide what to about hail-damaged plants. Should you leave them standing and just remove the ragged leaves that still cling to their stems, or cut them back to the ground? Or should you remove them completely, and try to get something else growing there for the rest of the summer? A lot depends on what types of plants were damaged, and just how badly they got hammered.

Shrubs will most likely leaf out again after major damage to existing foliage. Just rake up the old leaves and put them in the compost pile.

Shredded leaves on hostas and other low-growing perennials should be cut right back to the ground. After Mother Nature has sliced and diced them, they're of little value to the plants, and probably will continue to deteriorate.

Bleeding hearts and other perennials with fairly soft stems should be cut back to the ground also, as their stems are probably damaged, too. On the other hand, if remaining stems look pretty good, just cut them back part way. Often they'll sprout new leaves in the axils of the old ones (where leaves were attached to the stem).

Work fertilizer around any damaged plants, or water some into the soil to give them a little added boost. It's still early enough in summer that you're likely to get some regrowth, especially on healthy, well-established perennials.

Perennials with firm, solid stalks may also be cut partially back. If they don't sprout new leaves on existing stems, you'll undoubtedly see new stems emerging from their roots.... in which case it would be wise to cut down the older stalks that were left standing after the storm. Don't be surprised by somewhat reduced growth and flowering next year, though. Less foliage means less food energy stored this fall for the following spring and summer.

Annuals are generally not as forgiving as established perennials; badly damaged plants may have to be replaced. Fortunately, you may still find nice flowering annuals at some local garden centers and at the large downtown farmers' markets in Minneapolis and St. Paul on week ends.

Most of the vegetables we grow are annuals as well, and unless they have decent looking stems left, (on tomatoes, for instance) it's unlikely they're worth trying to save. Root crops may send up new growth and be productive, but it's probably a good idea to dig up any that are large enough to harvest and use right away (beets, tiny carrots, new potatoes).

You can replant onion seeds, spinach, leaf lettuce, radishes and other early veggies in August, for a fall harvest. Another option would be seeding in a "green manure" crop such as clover or buckwheat that can be incorporated into the soil at the end of the season to add organic matter and nutrients. Check out the Yard and Garden Brief, Green Manure Cover Crops for Minnesota Green Manure Cover Crops for Minnesota for details.

You could also replace ruined annuals with a green manure .

False Japanese Beetles
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

False Japanese beetle.

Rose chafer. Photos: Jeff Hahn

Japanese beetle. Photo credit: Dept. of Entomology

False Japanese beetle, Strigoderma arboricola, is a native insect common in many areas of Minnesota. The adult is first active in late June or early July and feeds into August. False Japanese beetle is sometimes confused with rose chafer and Japanese beetle. False Japanese beetle is about 7/16 inch long, oval and has a dark brown (with a hint of green) prothorax (the first area behind the head) and tannish to brown wing covers. It lacks any white patches of hair on the side or tip of its abdomen.

Rose chafer was active earlier this spring, feeding from May into June. It is about the same size as false Japanese beetle but is a more slender beetle. Rose chafer is tan to pale green in color with long reddish-brown legs which makes it distinct from false Japanese beetle.

Japanese beetle looks very similar to false Japanese beetle. They are both active in July. However Japanese beetle is a quarantine pest and is not widely distributed in Minnesota while false Japanese beetle is much more widespread. You can identified Japanese beetle because it is more brightly colored with an emerald green prothorax and shiny coppery brown wing covers. Its most distinguishing feature are 5 small patches of white hairs on each side of the abdomen and two on the tip of the abdomen (they appear as spots) .

False Japanese beetle is associated with sandy soil. They feed on the foliage and flowers of various perennials and shrubs. Some callers have observed that they particularly like to feed on white and light-colored flowers. They are also quite fond of roses.

To manage false Japanese beetles, hand pick them when their numbers are small. When larger numbers are present, protect plants with an insecticide application, such as permethrin or carbaryl (Sevin). False Japanese beetle generally feed until the end of July or early August.

Forest Tent Caterpillars
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

Forest tent caterpillars Photo credit: Oregon State Univ.

Just when we thought we were done with forest tent caterpillars until next year, many counties in northern Minnesota have been deluged with large numbers of emerging adult moths. This is not unexpected as forest tent caterpillar populations have been increasing to outbreak numbers over the last couple of years.

An adult forest tent caterpillar has a wingspan of about 1 to 1 ½ inches long, is generally stout-bodied with tannish wings and two dark colored bands running through the middle of the forewing. After emerging, females mate then lay eggs which remain until next spring.

No control is necessary or practical for the adult moths. If you discover landscape trees with egg masses, you can prune them out before next spring to minimize caterpillars seen next year. Removing egg masses from trees in a wood lot is not practical but knowing they are there would at least alert you to the potential for caterpillars next spring.

Pine False Webworms
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

False pine webworm. Photo credit: Jeff Hahn

Pine false webworm is a type of web-spinning sawfly. Although this insect was actively feeding earlier this spring, some people have just noticed its damage. It prefers to feed on many types of pines, especially white and red pines.

This insect overwinters as a prepupa, and pupates in early spring. The adult emerges shortly afterwards in late April or early May and lays eggs on last year's needles. Green larvae hatch and spin loose webs around themselves. There can be more than one larva inside the webbing. As the larvae feed, they cut needles and draw them in to the webbing. Also, large amounts of frass and debris accumulate, creating a very conspicuous webbing in the branches.

Despite its appearance, damage to tree health is usually minimal. Pine false webworms do not normally occur in very large numbers so damage is usually restricted to just a few branches. Only older needles are attacked, reducing the chance of serious injury. Pine false webworms are done feeding for this year (there is only one generation a year).

In most cases control is not necessary. If large numbers do occur, control is best timed in May or early June, soon after the larvae start to feed. Acephate (Orthene), a systemic insecticide, would effectively control pine false webworm.

Masked Hunters
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

Masked hunter nymph.

Masked hunter adult. Photos:  Jeff Hahn

A masked hunter is a type of assassin bug that is occasionally found in homes. The adult is black and about 3/4 inch long. The immature nymph is light brown and smaller. The nymph often has bits of dust, lint, and other debris attached to its body. It uses this material as camouflage which is where this insect gets its name. Both the adult and nymph are predaceous, feeding on smaller insects. Their favorite food is bed bugs.

Usually only a few masked hunters are seen at any given time and they are considered just an accidental invader. Physical removal is the only necessary control. Insecticides are not necessary. Although a masked hunter is generally considered harmless, it can bite to protect itself if it is handled carelessly.

Rarely, persistent numbers of masked hunters may occur in a home. This results when a steady food supply is available for them. If this happens, check for another insect that is acting as a food source, especially bed bugs. There are two common species of bed bugs, the human (or common) bed bug and the bat bed bug which is associated with bats. Controlling the insects that are the masked hunter's food source controls the masked hunters.
Get the low down on this month's insect pests at Insects
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/EntWeb/Ent.htm

Editorial Notes

Tomato "teapots"? Photo: Beth Jarvis

These are two beauties came from my garden last year. One is a black heirloom and the other is a hydrid. Odd growth can be caused by cold temperatures during flowering and fruit set, or excess heat, erradic moisture, 2,4-D contamination or excess pruning. Must have been the weather.

In upcoming issues: Jon Powell, turf plant pathologist, will write about lawn diseases in the August 1 issue. Dr. Carl Rosen, who wrote about soil tests in the May 15th issue, will continue the discussion to include pH. Soluable salts will wait until winter. Later on: Doug Foulk will talk about growing grapes in Minnesota and varieties to seek out when perusing garden catalogs. George Heimpel will return to talk about conservation biocontrol.

The plant pathology supervisor position at Yard & Garden search continues. Application deadline is August 15. If you know someone with at least a MS in Plant Path., who loves to teach and write, point them our way! To see a copy of the listing, click here on job opening. In the mean time, we'll probably be a bit light on plant diesease articles.

I rely on your comments and questions for ideas for future articles. Please, keep the story ideas coming! We really try to be responsive to your needs.

Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.

Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/. Our home page has clickable links to most of the components of the Yard & Garden Line, such as Bell Museum of Natural History, INFO U and the Soil Testing Lab.

Deb Brown answers gardening questions on Minnesota Public Radio's (MPR) "Midmorning" program on the first Thursday of every month at 10 a.m. Katherine Lanpher hosts the program that is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations.

If you have gardening questions, please call the Yard & Garden Line at (612) 624-4771.

If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to: listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist
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Happy gardening!

Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator

Websites
Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series. This site contains everything from landscape design planning and lawncare to both herbaceous and woody plant selection databases. The URL is:http://www.sustland.umn.edu


For pesticide info, for both home owner and professionals, check out:

http://www.crc.agri.umn.edu/~mnhelps/

There's also some very interesting reading at Forest Products website. To get there from here, click on: http://www.cnr.umn.edu/FR/extension/
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