Yard & Garden Line News
Volume 3 Number 10                                                               July 01, 2001
Features this issue:
 University of Minnesota Blueberry Varieties Trace Back to Wild Blueberry Ancestors
Turf Anthracnose
Seedy Trees
Invite Butterflies to Your Garden
Treated Wood in the Garden
Variegated Cutworms in Home Gardens
Sowbugs Enjoying Wet Season
A Scene from 'Arachnophobia'?
Agriculture Open House at St. Paul Campus
Horticulture Showcased at Research and Outreach Centers
Editorial Notes

University of Minnesota Blueberry Varieties Trace Back to Wild Blueberry Ancestors
Jim Luby, Fruit Crops Breeder

blueberry
Fruit on the shrub.
Photo credit: U of M
Extension Service
July is blueberry month in Minnesota! People in this region are real fans of this native North American fruit. Although many people still love to pick blueberries from their favorite wild patches (despite the mosquitoes and bears!), several varieties are available for northern gardens thanks to years of research by University of Minnesota scientists.

The blueberry is one of the most recently domesticated crops we eat. Compared to our grain crops that have been domesticated for thousands of years, blueberries go back only about a century. Franklin Coville of the USDA began collecting the best plants from the wilds in eastern US in 1908 and began crossing them to get larger and tastier berries on more productive plants. In fact none of the domesticated blueberry varieties that we grow and eat today are more than two to four generations removed from their wild ancestors.

Blueberries have been grown at research stations in MN since the 1910s. Highbush varieties (Vaccinium corymbosum) from the eastern US were often injured by low temperatures in the late fall. Although research was conducted on the propagation and cultivation of our native lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium and Vaccinium myrtilloides), these were never grown commercially. A blueberry breeding program was initiated at the University of Minnesota in 1967 to develop cold-hardy, high quality, large-fruited varieties. As these varieties involved both the lowbush and highbush parents in their pedigrees, they are often referred to as "half-high" blueberries. Most of them have a lower stature than highbush varieties but are taller than lowbush species.

The concept of developing a low-statured blueberry for northern regions wasn't mentioned in Coville's earliest writings. He clearly conceived of it, however, because Minnesota researchers reported receiving seed from him in 1916 from crosses between highbush and lowbush parents.The fate of these seedlings is unknown as they never entered the modern-day University of Minnesota breeding program.

picking berries
Picking berries.
Photo credit: U of M
Extension Service
A Michigan State University researcher, Stanley Johnston, realized in 1926 that highbush x lowbush crosses might provide a new type of crop for the cold and snowy Upper Peninsula of Michigan. He spent the summers of 1926 to 1930 exploring northern Michigan for superior lowbush blueberry types. These were crossed with highbush varieties, and, although most of the resulting seedlings produced disappointingly small and dark fruit, the offspring from one lowbush plant, designated Michigan Lowbush No. 1, were somewhat taller and had lighter colored fruit than the others. Michigan Lowbush No. 1 appears in the pedigree of the popular variety, Northland, which was introduced from Michigan State University. It is also a grandparent of several varieties from the University of Minnesota breeding program including Northblue, St. Cloud and Chippewa.

While Stanley Johnston was searching Michigan for superior wild blueberries, another blueberry pioneer, Frederick Ashworth, a private nurseryman in New York, was doing the same in the St. Lawrence Valley, the northern limit of wild highbush blueberries. He began cooperating with the USDA blueberry breeding program, then directed by George Darrow who had succeeded Coville. Darrow used several of the wild blueberries collected by Ashworth in breeding with highbush varieties and one of them, which Darrow named 'Ashworth' after his collaborator, produced many hardy offspring.

In 1965, seeds from several crosses of the 'Ashworth' wild blueberry with highbush varieties and experimental selections were received at the University of Minnesota. Some 24 large-fruited and very hardy seedlings were selected from the cross 'Ashworth' x G65. At least one of these selections from this hardy, wild 'Ashworth' blueberry appears as a parent of every variety introduced from the University of Minnesota breeding program.

fall color
'Chippewa' has bright fall color.
Photo credit: U of M
Extension Service
Since 1983, six varieties of blueberry have been introduced by the University of Minnesota breeding program - Chippewa, Polaris, St. Cloud, Northblue, Northcountry and Northsky. These, along with Northland from Michigan, provide northern gardeners and pick-your-own blueberry growers with a range of plant size, berry size, and flavor.

After I read Jim's piece, I had a few questions. He answered them and referred me to Dave Wildung for more info. Below are my questions with the answers taken from the responses of Luby and Wilding. ----Ed.

Who started the breeding program at the U ?

Cecil Stushnoff started in 1967. He was a fruit breeder from Rutgers who did his thesis work on blueberries. David Wildung, North Central Research and Outreach Center, started in 1971 evaluating wild collections and half highs at what was then called the North Central Experiment Station, in Grand Rapids. Jim Luby came along in 1982 . The first releases didn't come out until 1983.

New blueberry releases were very scarce due to high demand and because blueberries were very difficult to propagate. Researchers at Michigan had tried softwood (new wood) cutting, hardwood cuttings, everything, then Paul Read, from the U of M Horticulture Dept. together with scientists from the USDA, Beltsville, Md. found that tissue culture worked. This discovery made new releases easier to replicate and meet the demand both of industry and the home market where they're popular as both fruit plants and landscape plants.

weighing berries
Recording  yield.
Photo credit: U of M
Extension Service
How long does it take you to get a new cultivar from start to market? What is the process?

It takes 15 to 25 years. The "idealized" scheme is as follows:
Year 1 Parents are chosen, cross is made, seeds collected and germinated.
Year 2 Seedling plants are grown in pots in the greenhouse and nursery.
Year 3 Seedling plants are transplanted to field.
Year 4-8 Individual Seedlings are evaluated in field for winter hardiness, productivity and fruit quality. The best ones (called "selections") are given an experimental number and are propagated (cloned) using semi-hardwood cuttings and 4 plants of each are planted at Becker and also at Grand Rapids in what are called "observation trials".
Years 9-15 The best selections are propagated and planted in replicated yield trials at Becker and Grand Rapids that are harvested by hand or by machine.
Years 15-20 The top selections from yield trials are propagated, tested for viruses, and then commercially micropropagated and plants are grown up in containers or as bare root liners by nurseries for sale to gardeners and fruit growers.

What do you look for in the fruit? What's a keeper?

Evaluations are based in part on fresh taste at picking, plus fruit size, plant productivity, fruit color and fruit scar. No one but a blueberry breeder would likely look at the scar, where the stem attaches, but some fruit have a large scar that's moist when you pick the fruit. A small scar is tiny and dry so it's far less likely to permit fungus to invade the fruit. Another thing to watch for is if the skin tears when the fruit is picked.

fruit baskets

Photo credit: U of M
Extension Service
How did the first three releases get named Northblue, Northsky and Northcountry ? Why the words are run together?

The Minn Agric Experiment Station Horticultural Variety Release Committee wanted the names to be written as one word and the industry wanted one word names.

Dr. Widmer was using "Minn" as part of his mum names and it seemed like a good idea to give the Minnesota releases a series name, to establish name recognition for the new half high blueberries. Someone suggested "North" to connote the Northwoods. After the first three releases, the one word convention was dropped and the next one was named 'St. Cloud'.

New cultivars are patented. What does that mean?

For the blueberries as with most of our fruits and landscape plants developed at the U of M, the nurseries that are licensed to propagate the varieites will collect a small royalty on each plant from plants sold anywhere in the country that is then returned to the breeding programs to help fund the development of future varieties.

People seem to think the U releases several new fruit cultivars per year. Is there a listing somewhere of new releases?

Yes. There's a fairly new publication called 150 Years of Hardy Plants by Mary Meyer with photos by Dave Hansen that looks back on all the U's fruit, flower and landscape plant releases over the last 150 years. It's at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG7564.html

Characteristics of Blueberry Cultivars for Minnesota

Cultivar

Yield potential

Hardiness

Berry size

Flavor

Firmness

Plant size

Machine harvest

Season

Chippewa

High

Excellent

Med-large

Sweet

Good

4.5 x 4

Good?

Mid

Northblue

High

Excellent

Large

Tart

Fair

3 x 4

Fair?

Mid

Polaris

Med-High

Very good

Med

Sweet, aromatic

Exc

4 x 4

Good?

Early

Northland

High

Very good

Med

Mild

Good

4 x 4

Fair?

Mid

St. Cloud

Med - High

Very good

Med

Sweet

Good

5 x 4

Good?

Early

Northcountry

Med

Very good

Small

Lowbush - mild

Poor

2.5 x 4

Poor?

Early

Northsky

Low

Very good

Small

Lowbush - sweet

Poor

2 x 3

Poor?

Mid


Turf Anthracnose
Janna Beckerman, Extension Plant Pathologist

sick turf Anthracnose in lawn.
Photo credit: U of M Extension Service closeup Close-up view.
Photo credit: Plant Disease Clinic
The record spring rainfall, coupled with cool temperatures, has created an ideal environment for the development of turf anthracnose. Turf anthracnose is caused by the fungus Colletotrichum graminicola. In the lawn, the disease kills the turf in irregular patches, from a few inches to several yards wide. The color of affected patches is reddish brown, to yellow to tan. Key symptoms include a basal stem rot. Initial lesions appear water soaked. Small patches of grass or individual plants begin to yellow and die. The shoot detaches easily, and the blackened base is readily visible. You can identify this disease through the use of a hand lens. If you examine the dying blade of grass with a hand lens, you should see little cushions of black fungus. Be careful, though: Turf anthracnose is commonly found in association with Kentucky bluegrass. Always search for other diseases or underlying disorders, too!

Stress is the predisposing factor necessary for anthracnose infection to occur. Stressors include temperature extremes, compacted soil, or inadequate amounts of water (obviously not a problem this year!) or the primary nutrients of nitrogen, potassium or phosphorus.

To manage this disease, do not apply high rates of nitrogen during periods of high temperature or drought. Be sure to water in the morning, so the lawn has the chance to dry completely before nightfall. When watering lawn, water deeply, but as infrequently as possible to minimize the opportunity for infection to occur. Aerate compacted lawns. Several fungicides are available for turf anthracnose, however, proper management should allow the homeowner to avoid this approach. Remember to try to keep your lawn at about 2" in height.

It should be stressed that symptoms that occur during wet, cool weather are different than the symptoms that develop during the warm, dry weather of summer. We'll talk about summer symptoms if it ever dries out and warms up!

Test your diagnostic savvy monthly with Disease Watch at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/PlantPathWeb/Plpa.htm

Seedy Trees
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

seedy maple
Red maple.

Close up of seeds.
Photo credits: Deb Brown
This spring the Yard & Garden Clinic received many reports of shade trees, particularly silver maples and Siberian elms, that were just loaded down with seeds. Calls came from locations throughout the state, including the Twin Cities Metro area. People were quite alarmed by these trees, worried that something terrible had happened or was about to happen to them. In fact, trees often do produce huge seed crops when they have been badly injured or are dying. It appears to be a mechanism that has evolved to insure survival of the species.

Being so widespread this year, however, it seems the phenomenon was weather-related, rather than a situation where literally thousands of seemingly healthy native trees were dying. It was likely a response to the dry, warm fall followed by the first truly cold, protracted winter we've had in several years – in other words, a stress response, rather than a sign the trees were on their "last legs."

While some of these seedy trees might continue to decline, especially if they were already in trouble the past year or two, the majority of them should continue to leaf out over the summer, and probably will be just fine next spring.

I observed an incredible example right across the street from me in Roseville. In fact, the tree's canopy appeared to consist entirely of tan seeds. Upon close inspection, there were a few leaves at the tips of some of the branches. The tree, a red maple (Acer rubrum), was mature and well-established. It had been in good shape the previous year, with a healthy leaf canopy. I suspected it would leaf out more or less normally after dropping all those seeds, and in fact, that is what has happened in the intervening weeks.

Invite Butterflies to Your Garden
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

monarch
Monarch on tithonia.
Photo credit: Deb Brown
It's time to begin watching for butterflies in your garden. Just about everyone loves to see them flitting from flower to flower, balancing delicately on each bloom to extract its nectar. The easiest way to turn your garden into a haven for these lovely creatures is to plant their favorite flowers... which is where the observation comes in. Take some time to see which flowers seem particularly appealing, then plant more of them next year.

In general, butterflies are attracted to daisy-like flowers with open, accessible centers and to masses of small flowers clustered together on single stems. Mexican sunflower, cosmos, shasta daisies, coreopsis and some zinnias are good examples of blooms with open centers and petals to light on. Dame's rocket, gayfeather (liatris), yarrow and butterfly weed are but a few that provide clusters of small flowers.

It's best to plant a wide diversity of flowers, including shrubs, vines, and native wildflowers. Incorporate shrubs such as azaleas and lilacs into your landscape to appeal to the earliest visitors, then make sure there's always something for later butterflies, right till frost.

If you want lots of butterflies in your yard, you need to welcome their larvae, also. This is sometimes easier said than done. Allow the caterpillars that will eventually pupate and hatch as butterflies and moths to eat heartily, even if it means some garden foliage will look a bit more "lacy" than you'd like. Whatever you do, don't apply any pesticides. Even so-called "environmentally friendly" or "organic" pesticides can prove lethal to caterpillars and butterflies.

Another way to encourage butterflies is to create an area of relative calm in the garden. Plant a hedge of woody plants or tall flowering perennials at the outer edges to afford some protection from strong winds. Reverse the typical planting pattern by placing shorter plants in the center of your garden, then surrounding them with taller ones to provide a sense of enclosure.

Butterflies also need a source of moisture. A little dip in the garden that you can keep muddy should work well. You could also sink a shallow bowl filled with sand, and keep it moist by adding water daily.

You might be tempted to buy an attractive"butterfly house" for your garden. These wooden structures have several vertical slits meant to accommodate butterflies, on the order of bird houses or bat houses. Butterflies don't see it that way, though, and don't use these structures. So unless you can justify the purchase as "garden art" you may as well save your money.

An Extension publication entitled "Butterfly Gardening" is available at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG6711.html .

Treated Wood in the Garden
James Bush, Graduate Assistant, Department of Wood and Paper Science
Tom Milton, Extension Specialist, Forest Products

veggies Treated wood used in vegetable garden. Photo credit: Beth Jarvis
Anytime wood is used in an environment where there is a source of moisture, mild temperatures and oxygen, it is subject to the deteriorating effects of nature – primarily attack by fungi and insects. If wood cannot be kept dry, then it must be treated with preservatives. Wood preservatives are EPA registered pesticides that bond to wood’s cellular structure. Wood preservatives ward off decay and insects to lengthen wood’s lifespan from only 5-7 years, (if left untreated) to 25-40 years or more when treated. Each added year of service lessens the impact on our forests and the environment. In spite of the benefits that preservatives provide, there has been some growing concern about the safety of pesticides and their potential risks. As part of its ongoing pesticide registration process, EPA is currently reviewing the major wood preservatives.

There are several types of wood preservatives used by commercial wood treaters. Creosote is widely used to treat railroad ties, which are occasionally recycled and reused by landscapers and gardeners. However, creosote’s strong odor may make it objectionable in your garden. Pentachlorophenol is an oil-based preservative used to treat utility poles, fence posts and some landscape timbers, but it too is not suited for garden beds as nearby plants are injured or killed by penta vapors or by root contact with the treated wood.

The most common preservative, used to treat over 95% of lumber and landscape timbers, is CCA (chromated copper arsenate), followed by ACZA (ammoniacal copper zinc arsenate) and ACQ (ammoniacal copper quat). All three preservatives are waterborne preservatives, and are applied by certified pesticide applicators in commercial pressure treating plants. They are free of odors and do not injure nearby plants. For wood in contact with the soil, these preservatives offer exceptional durability and a proven track record. Wood treated with CCA, ACZA or ACQ has a characteristic green color, but sometimes retailers carry this same lumber that is dyed brown.

Is treated wood safe to use, especially around the garden? Well-documented tests consistently support the EPA’s conclusions that CCA, ACZA and ACQ treated wood is safe for residential use with certain precautions, but it should be used only where protection from insects and decay is necessary.

raisedbeds Raised bed. Photo credit: Arch Wood Protection, Inc.
Since CCA treated lumber became widely available, 30 years ago, there have been very few incidences of health or environmental problems by consumers. Nevertheless, some people have become increasingly concerned about the potential dangers of arsenic coming out of CCA treated wood. When CCA is impregnated into wood, it undergoes a chemical reaction called "fixation", which basically locks the chemical in the wood. CCA becomes highly insoluble and leach resistant. However, all types of treated wood will lose minute amounts of preservative over time, which becomes mixed with the soil surrounding the wood. This can be a real concern for vegetable gardeners. As pointed out in Yard & Garden Line News, June 1, 2001 Alamgir, Allen, and Rosen found detectable levels of arsenic in vegetables grown within several inches of CCA treated wood. The levels found, however, were well below limits set by the U.S. Public Health Service and the vegetables were considered safe for human consumption.

Some vegetable gardeners may be more comfortable taking additional steps to minimize leaching into the surrounding soil. If so, install a plastic barrier (like 6 mil polyethylene) between the crops and the treated wood and avoid planting within 15 inches of the wood. If you’re constructing a new raised garden bed for vegetables, and the thought of using CCA lumber bothers you, then consider ACQ treated lumber. ACQ does not contain arsenic compounds, but it is not as readily available, it costs more and its corrosive nature requires the use of stainless steel fasteners. Another possibility is using a naturally durable species such as cedar, white oak or redwood. Extractives found only in the heartwood of these species provide a natural preservative, but well-treated wood will typically outlast even these naturally durable species. Heartwood availability and, more importantly, price may make it difficult to justify using these species in applications where they would be used in ground contact.

Sample quality mark.
How can I tell if the lumber or timbers I’m buying has been properly treated? Properly treated wood will have an end tag or ink stamp "quality mark" indicating the AWPA (American Wood Preserver’s Association) standard used for treatment, the type and amount of preservative, and the treating plant and its location. The performance of lumber and landscape timbers without a "quality mark" can be as poor as untreated wood and therefore should be avoided. Do not confuse the preservative "quality mark" with the lumber grade-stamp which specifies the grade quality of the wood.

The type and amount of preservative and the depth of penetration are the most critical factors affecting the service life of treated wood products. Retention, given in pounds per cubic foot (pcf), refers to the amount of preservative put into the wood. Look for a retention of .40 pcf for wood in ground contact. Critical structural applications in ground contact warrant a retention of .60 pcf. The depth of penetration is influenced most by the type of wood species used and the location and proportion of sapwood in a given piece. Species such as southern yellow pine, red pine, ponderosa pine and red oak are easily and effectively treated. Whenever treated wood is sawn or machined, untreated wood inside is usually exposed. Therefore, always re-seal (by brush application) any saw cuts or holes with an over-the-counter treatment such as copper naphthenate.

Are there precautions that must be followed when using treated wood? Consumer information sheets (CIS) are available from lumber suppliers for each preservative. They contain important health and safety precautions for the use and handling of treated wood. For example,
Learn more about use and handling precautions online or ask your local supplier for the CIS specific to your lumber’s preservative.

For additional and up-to-date information about using treated wood in gardens or other applications, please visit the following web sites:

Additional Information
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us
Web site of the USDA Forest Products Laboratory. The USDA’s Wood Handbook is available in pdf format and includes information on species with natural durability and detailed descriptions of all preservatives. http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/alpha_fs.htm
Learn what the EPA has to say about CCA treated wood use in the garden.

Variegated Cutworms in Home Gardens
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist



cutworm damage Cutworm and the damage done.
Photo credits: Jeff Hahn
There have been many reports of chewing damage in gardens this year. Given the rainy weather we experienced earlier, it would be natural to assume that much of this was due to slugs. However, that has not been the case. Instead of slug-infested plants, gardeners have been finding variegated cutworms chewing on them. Variegated cutworms are extremely common in Minnesota this year, although it is not clear why numbers have been so high.

Variegated caterpillars are generally dark-colored, ranging from brownish to black. There are four to five yellowish diamond-shaped spots on the top of the body starting at the head. They may also have a dark-colored ‘W' on top of its body near the posterior. Like other cutworms, variegated cutworms curl into a ball when they are disturbed. These cutworms are large when mature, growing to 1½ to two inches long.

These cutworms have been reported on many garden plants, including hostas, tomatoes, lettuce, onion, radish, geraniums, zinnias, hibiscus, evening primrose, swiss chard, beans, peas, basil, rhubarb and lupines. Farmers have also been dealing with these pests in their corn and potato fields. Unlike the surface or subterranean cutworms that gardeners are more familiar with, variegated cutworms are a type of climbing cutworm that typically chew irregular holes in the foliage throughout the plant. They will also bore into flower buds. Cutworm chewing damage is very similar to slugs.

The biology of variegated cutworms in Minnesota is not clearly understood. They apparently can overwinter in Minnesota either as pupae or larvae. Adult moths are probably also carried up on the jet stream and deposited into Minnesota during spring. These cutworms have been active since early to mid-June. Many are probably now in the process of pupating. It is not clear how many generations a year variegated cutworms have, although they probably have one or two. Should there be a second generation, their damage should be less severe than the first one.

In many cases, it is probably not necessary to treat variegated cutworms now as they are finishing their feeding. In general, management involves handpicking, trapping with boards, Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterial insecticide but only when the caterpillars are small, or a residual insecticide, such as permethrin (Eight), acephate (Orthene), carbaryl (Sevin), diazinon.

Sowbugs Enjoying Wet Season
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

Sowbugs.
Photo credit: Jeff Hahn
The rainy June that many parts of Minnesota received, has allowed moisture-loving creatures to thrive, such as sowbugs. Sowbugs are not a type of insect but rather a crustacean, related to shrimp, lobster, crayfish, and crab. Unlike their aquatic cousins sowbugs are terrestrial. Sowbugs are gray or brown, about 3/4 inch long and are turtle-like. They have 14 legs with a pair of antennae on the head and pair of appendages on their posterior.

Sowbugs prefer damp conditions and feed on decaying plant material. They are common outdoors under leaves, loose bark, mulch, under wood piles, garbage containers, and similar objects. It is common for sowbugs to enter homes during the fall as they seek overwintering sites, however they are normally much less of a problem during the summer. Heavy rains or generally damp conditions may cause them to seek shelter indoors. Once inside, sowbugs do not usually live long if it's too dry. But they can survive in areas that remain damp e.g. in some basements. Fortunately, sowbugs do not reproduce indoors and they are harmless to people and our property.

In many cases, only small numbers of sowbugs are found. Physical removal is the easiest control. Also use a dehumidifier or fan to help keep moisture levels low. Also check around the outside of your home for cracks in foundations, spaces around doors and ground-level windows. Caulk or seal any openings you find to help keep sowbugs out. Remove leaves, grass clippings, wood piles, stones mulch, brick piles and other objects these invertebrates may hide under and gain easier access to your home.

Although nuisance sowbug numbers are relatively low now, they could become much more abundant this fall. In addition to the above suggestions, it may be necessary to use an insecticide around your home's exterior when numbers are large. Use an approved product, e.g. one containing permethrin or bifenthrin, in a band around the ground and building.

A Scene from 'Arachnophobia'?
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

fishing spide Fishing spider
Photo credit: Jeff Hahn
Large spiders have been commonly seen in and around homes recently. They have a body length up to one inch long and including their outstretched legs several inches across. And they move quickly. The samples we have received have all been species of fishing spiders. They are the largest spiders found in Minnesota. Fishing spiders are associated with water but they can range a short distance away from that habitat. Like all spiders, they are predators. Insects comprise their primary diet, but they have also been known to occasionally feed on tadpoles and minnows.

Fishing spiders are a common spider, although it is a little unusual to have so many people finding them on their property during early summer. A question so eloquently stated by one concerned homeowner is ‘are they dangerous or just plain ugly'. Despite their size, they are not dangerous to people. If they are carelessly handled, they can administer a bite in self defense that would produce a short-lived localized effect. However, they are not aggressive would rather flee than fight.

Finding fishing spiders indoors does not mean they have laid eggs there. In fact they prefer to lay them near water. People are generally not finding more than one or two fishing spiders at a time. The simplest control is to capture the spider and release it outside. It is not necessary to spray insecticides for control.

Get the low down on this month's insect pests at Insects http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/EntWeb/Ent.htm


Agriculture Open House at St. Paul Campus
Shelly Tschida, College of Agricultural, Food, and Environmental Sciences

Have you always wanted to know what is going on in those fields and barns on the St. Paul campus? Well here's your chance to hear it right from those on the front line. Mark your calendars now for Saturday morning, July 14. From 9:00 a.m. until around 1:00 p.m., the College of Agricultural, Food, and Environmental Sciences along with the Minnesota Agricultural Experiment Station is holding an Agriculture Open House. There will be wagon tours of horticultural areas, agricultural test plots, and the animal barns. Tents will be filled with exhibits and experts to answer any questions, displays of antique equipment, and refreshments.

There is no need to pre-register. Simply show up at the tents on Gortner Avenue just south of Larpenteur Avenue. This is a free event for the whole family. Questions? Call (612) 624-7480 or see our website at: http://www.coafes.umn.edu/research/openhouse/

Horticulture Showcased at Research and Outreach Centers
Beth Jarvis, Yard & Garden Line

Horticulture will be featured at two events coming soon to research and outreach centers (ROCs, formerly known as experiment stations.) These events are free and open to the public.

On July 26, the U of M West Central Research and Outreach Center at Morris will host a Horticulture Night from 5 p.m. to 9. Tours of the test plots, talks and displays will be available. For directions to the ROC go to http://www.wces.agri.umn.edu/ .

On August 29, the North Central ROC will host a Horticulture Day with events from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. For directions to the ROC, go to http://ncroc.coafes.umn.edu/default.htm

These are both excellent opportunities for you to see first hand what's going!

Editorial Notes

hibiscus Hardy hibiscus and Verbena bonariensis. Photo credit: Beth Jarvis
What a spring! What a summer! I sure hope it cools down to normal soon and stays there! Folks trying to grow hot peppers might get a little more zip in their Minnesota-grown jalapenos as peppers really need warm weather to develop "heat". Tomatos like it warm but they drop flowers if it gets too hot--night time temperatures of 75 or more or daytime highs over 100. The most important thing you can do for your tomatoes this summer is to be sure they get an steady supply of moisture. Blossom end rot shows up as a sunken brown or black patch on the bottom of the fruit. It's a calcium deficiency but it's prompted by uneven watering. An inch a week or enough to soak down at least 6" in the soil is what's needed. So much for my garden advice.

Our expert garden adviser, Deb Brown, will be on MPR as Katherine Lanpher's guest at 10 a.m. on the first Thursday of the month. (Scroll down to the little radio below for radio info.)

In the July 15th issue, we'll hear from our resident turf disease guru on that orange stuff that gets all over your shoes.

Mary Meyer will write about ornamental grasses in Aug. Bob Mugaas, Hennepin Co., has agreed to comment on fertilizers, whether organic or synthetic is truly superior plus other thoughts he may have on the subject.

This fall, Patrick Weicherding, Anoka Co., will share the latest research on winter injury/frost crack on trees. It may be more stress-related that we've ever dreamed. Sometime next winter, Doug Foulk, Ramsey-Washington, will talk about pears, what to know and how to grow. I'm also lining up articles on other plant breeding projects and will give you an inside look as they are available.

I rely on your comments and questions for ideas for future articles. Please, keep the story ideas coming! We really try to be responsive to your needs.

Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.

Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/. Our home page has clickable links to most of the components of the Yard & Garden Line, such as Bell Museum of Natural History, INFO U and the Soil Testing Lab.

Q & A bulletin board service, staffed by Master Gardeners, is limited to Minnesota gardeners because the Minnesota-hardy plants and gardening practices are the focus of the Master Gardener training. Everyone is welcome to read the board, however, regardless of where you live. The address is:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/askmg.html

Deb Brown answers gardening questions on Minnesota Public Radio's (MPR) "Midmorning" program on the first Thursday of every month at 10 a.m. Katherine Lanpher hosts the program that is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations.

For plant and insect questions, visit http://www.extension.umn.edu/askmg. Thousands of questions have been answered, so try the search option in the black bar at the top left of the board for the fastest answer.

If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to: listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist or to unsubscribe, enter: unsub yglnewslist



Happy gardening!

Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator


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