Yard & Garden Line News
Volume 5 Number 2                                                               February 1, 2003
Features this issue:
 Shrub Rose Breeding Program Blooms!
Trying Borax to Control Creeping Charlie
Over the Phone Diagnosing of Tree and Shrub Disease
A Bug Bite Is Not Always a Bug Bite.
Editorial Notes


Shrub Rose Breeding Program Blooms!
Kathy Zuzek, Scientist, Horticulture Research Center

Rosa 251--ready for regional trials! Photo credit: Kathy Zuzek
The Woody Landscape Plant Breeding and Genetics research program, started in 1954, is quickly approaching its 50th year. Over those five decades, more than forty cultivars have been released including large shade trees, small flowering trees, and many shrubs including the "Lights" series of deciduous azaleas. Information and photos of these cultivars can be found at http://www.maes.umn.edu/maesinfo/releases/releaseinfo.html. (And Y& GL News, August 1, 2002 http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLN-Aug0102.html#woody.)

One of the research program's newer efforts, initiated in 1988, is to develop shrub rose cultivars with attractive blooms and plant habit, repeat bloom, blackspot tolerance, and the ability to grow and bloom well after a Zone 4 winter. A program that is 12 years old may not seem "new", but given the long generation times for woody plants this is indeed a young program.

As with any new breeding program, the first years of effort serve as a learning curve. From 1988-1992, existing shrub roses, old garden roses, and rose species were observed in the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum's shrub rose garden, an evaluation protocol was developed, and the strengths and weaknesses of each cultivar and species were identified. This provided the research program with a wealth of information to use in choosing parents for our initial hybridizations. It also allowed the research program to publish Roses for the North, which characterizes these roses according to their floral traits, bloom pattern, cold hardiness, plant size and habit, and tolerance of diseases and insects. Roses for the North can be ordered through the University of Minnesota Extension Service website at http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG6594.html .

One of the trial fields.
During these same years, we also developed efficient and effective ways to hybridize roses, and to grow and evaluate shrub rose seedlings in a Zone 4 environment. How do you emasculate and pollinate a rose? How do you collect and store pollen? What is the quickest and most permanent method of labeling the flowers you hybridize on? How do you extract, stratify, and germinate rose seed? What records do you need to keep in order to grow thousands of seedlings at a time or to decide who is a good or bad parent? How long do you have to grow seedlings in pots before they can be field planted? What cultural practices should you follow in your seedling plots to guarantee that you are developing reliably carefree roses? How many years must a seedling be evaluated in the field before a decision is made to rogue it or save it? And just what is the most efficient way to evaluate thousands of seedlings at a time so that ultimately you can save the good and toss the bad? We have developed many answers in this continually evolving process. The following paragraphs will give you an overview of the process we go through as we develop future rose cultivars adapted for USDA hardiness zones 3 and 4.

cross rose Labeled, cross-bred rose.
Before and after--
emasculated blooms.
Gelatin capsule of pollen. Hand pollinating.
Rose hip and seeds.
Rose seedlings. All photos: Kathy Zuzek
There are several collections of roses scattered around the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (MLA) and Horticultural Research Center (HRC), housing plants that are used as parents in our breeding program. The Nelson Shrub Rose Garden at the MLA provides us with many fine garden worthy shrub roses, old garden roses, and species roses. There are several other rose plantings in the research nurseries located around the perimeter of the MLA and at the HRC containing other shrub roses, old garden roses, and species roses, including some grown from seed collected in Kazakhstan and China. Although these plants are not as garden worthy, they potentially contain traits that would be valuable in garden roses. We also maintain a breeding nursery containing selections from our breeding program's earliest generations. These selections contain a partial combination of the desirable traits we are breeding for in an overall substandard plant. Such plants serve as parental material in the next generation of breeding. We also maintain a large number of rose plants in containers at the HRC. These are hybrid tea and floribunda rose cultivars that are not hardy in Zone 4 or other breeding stock that will moved into the greenhouse for winter hybridizations. Each fall, some of these potted plants are moved into a tub cellar before being moved into the greenhouse in January. The remaining containerized plants are tipped on their sides and are overwintered under a straw and plastic covering.

Each year, plants from many of these collections are chosen as parents for the next cycle of hybridizing. As these plants produce flower buds in spring, emasculation, pollen collection, and hybridizations are carried out from late May through mid-July. Emasculation, or the removal of the petals and pollen-producing parts of the flower, is done with jewelers' tweezers 2-3 days before a flower bud opens. Emasculated blooms are then covered with a small piece of tin foil. These steps assure us that the pollinations are controlled, i.e. that self- and/or insect pollination won't occur. A few days after emasculation, a small paintbrush is used to brush pollen onto the styles of the emasculated flower. A label is placed under the bloom and the tin foil cover is put back on for 1-2 weeks. After the foil is removed, pollinated flowers are left to develop into rose hips containing seed.

Collecting and storing rose pollen is a simple process. Flower buds are collected shortly before they are ready to open, petals are removed, and anthers are stripped off the flower into a petri plate. If the pollen is to be used immediately, the anthers can be left in the plate and as they dry, pollen is shed onto the surface of the petri plate. Pollen that is to be used months or years into the future is treated differently. After anthers are stripped off of the flowers, they are loaded into gelatin capsules, allowed to air dry for 24-48 hours, placed in capped vials containing desiccant, and stored in the freezer.

Approximately 90-120 days after pollination, mature hips will change from green to orange or red. In September and October, hips resulting from field hybridizations are collected, cut open, and seed is scooped out. Seed is then loaded into small bags containing a moist peat-based soil mix. The bags are sealed, labeled, and placed in a refrigerator set to 34-38oF. After 60-90 days, the germination mix containing the seed is sowed in small flats that are placed in the greenhouse. As seed germinates in January and February, seedlings are transplanted into small pots. Over the next few months, some seedlings are rogued due to albinism, dwarfism, powdery mildew susceptibility, and lack of vigor. Repeat blooming seedlings can be identified at this stage because they start blooming as early as 6 weeks after germination. By early May, seedlings are typically 12-18 inches tall, growing in one gallon pots, and ready to be field planted.

The number of crosses made varies from year to year. On average, the number of parental combinations, pollinations, number of hips produced, number of seed produced, and number of germinated seedlings has been 350, 1700, 450, 3800, and 1100 respectively. In a year of intense hybridization, these numbers can be expected to triple. These numbers reveal several facts. Our breeding effort is small compared to commercial breeding programs, which produce hundreds of thousands of seedlings each year. In addition, the numbers demonstrate where bottlenecks in a rose breeding program occur. On average, only 25% of pollinated flowers will develop into hips containing seed and only 25% of that seed will germinate to grow into new plants. We have been able to improve germination significantly over the past ten years by putting seed through multiple rounds of stratification. However, increasing hip and seed set has proven to be a more complex problem.

Seedlings are field planted in late May or early June at 6 months of age. Plants are spaced 2-4 feet apart within rows, with rows spaced 4 feet on center. After planting, a pre-emergent herbicide is applied and 2-4 inches of wood chip mulch and a drip line irrigation system is laid down. Plants are insured at least one inch of water weekly with this system. In addition to pre-emergent herbicides, the plantings are hand weeded, with chemical herbicides being utilized wherever possible. Weed control is our most demanding cultural management issue. Plantings are fertilized twice each year, either in late fall or early spring and again in July. Pruning to remove winter-injured canes is done in April. No pesticides are applied and no winter protection is given in the breeding evaluation plantings.

Seedling populations are evaluated for 3 years. In early spring, plants showing little winter injury are marked. Later, as flowering starts, plants with attractive blooms are noted. From July through September blackspot tolerant and repeat-blooming plants are identified, while blackspot-susceptible plants and single blooming types are marked for culling. In September or October, information on plant size and habit is taken. Each year plants that perform poorly are removed so that by year three, only those plants with cultivar potential or those that will be used as parents in future generations are left.

Those plants that are designated for parental use in the breeding program are tree spaded into a breeding nursery.

Seedlings with cultivar potential are propagated by softwood cuttings. These plants are then put into a three-year regional trial program to test how they perform over multiple planting sites. Our first regional trial planting was established in 2002 at the West Central Research and Outreach Center in Morris, where eight shrub rose selections and two industry standards were planted. Our research program has also been working on the development of hardy polyantha roses. With their small stature, constant bloom, and large clusters of small flowers, hardy polyanthas would be a wonderful addition to northern landscapes. In 2003, we plan on adding four selections from our polyantha breeding line to the Morris planting. In addition, we would like to establish additional regional trial plantings at the North Central Research and Outreach Center in Grand Rapids and UMore Park in Rosemount. At each of these sites, we hope to find interested Master Gardeners who will help us evaluate three plants of each selection along with industry standards for floral quality, rebloom, hardiness, blackspot tolerance, plant size and habit.

The selections that perform well in regional trials are the plants that will become future cultivars. Stock plants of these new cultivars are provided to licensed nurseries, who spend the next few years propagating the large quantities of plants needed for retail sales. Cultivars developed on the Woody Landscape Plant Breeding and Genetics Research Program are released through the Minnesota Research Corporation or through the University of Minnesota's Office of Patents and Technology Marketing. In either case, royalties collected from cultivar releases play a vital part in providing financial support for future efforts of our research program.

Trying Borax to Control Creeping Charlie
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

Creeping charlie. Photo credit: Deb Brown
It's only February, but in anticipation of spring and summer lawn woes, we've revised the Yard & Garden Brief about trying borax to help eliminate creeping charlie. This Brief will replace the old one, and will be available on line in time for spring lawncare.

Trying Borax to Control Creeping Charlie

Borax (sodium tetraborate, a white, crystalline mineral salt) has been found to be somewhat effective for killing creeping charlie (Glechoma hederacea) in the lawn. (Creeping charlie is an invasive perennial member of the mint family that vines throughout lawns, choking out the grass.) Since the1920s, borax detergent has been used unofficially as an herbicide to eradicate weeds, but it has only recently been tested scientifically for effectiveness on creeping charlie. We do not recommend its use because borax products are not labeled as weed killers. However, if you still want to try it, the following information may prove helpful.

Borax contains boron, an essential micronutrient that aids sugar transportation in plants. Boron has a toxic effect on creeping charlie when the plants receive minute excess amounts. Boron also will becomes toxic to any and all other plants if they receive excess amounts. The reason it can be used to help rid the lawn of creeping charlie is that creeping charlie is more sensitive to boron. It takes less boron to kill creeping charlie than to kill turf grasses.

If you do decide to try it, apply borax with great caution because boron remains immobile in the soil and can accumulate to form "hot spots" in the lawn. Boron toxicity results in yellow and brown spots around edges of leaves. Stems wilt and eventually the plant dies. Established grass appears to withstand the minute excess of boron needed to kill creeping charlie, though it may show brown discoloration temporarily.

This borax treatment should not be applied more than once each year nor, should it be used more than two years. If the borax solution is applied in too high a concentration, or too many times, it will prove toxic to grass as well as to creeping charlie, and you won't be able to replant unless you scrape off the upper portion of the soil and replace it.

If you still have creeping charlie problems after trying borax, switch to a standard herbicide meant for killing broadleaf weeds in lawns. For information about using standard broadleaf herbicides on creeping charlie, look at the Yard & Garden Brief called Creeping Charlie. It is available on line at http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/h510creepingcharlie.html. Here is the concentration that was found useful in research trials conducted at Iowa State University. This amount covers exactly 1,000 square feet. To treat a smaller or larger area, adjust the formula accordingly.

Borax Solution for Creeping Charlie Control:
Dissolve 10 oz. Twenty Mule Team Borax in 4 oz. (½ cup) warm water.
Dilute in 2.5 gallons of water.

Before experimenting with borax as an herbicide be sure to test your spraying technique and the rate at which liquid sprays from the nozzle. Fill the sprayer with the same amount of water as the amount of borax solution you intend to use in the weedy part of your lawn. Then walk at a constant pace, passing back and forth over an area the same size as the one to be sprayed with borax. Your goal is to walk fast enough to empty the sprayer tank, spreading its contents evenly over the entire area. If you end up emptying the tank before you have covered the area, you will be applying it too heavily when you use the real solution. If you have water left over when you finish the area, you will have applied it too lightly. If you choose to try borax, apply it when the creeping charlie is actively growing in the spring, and no rain is expected in the following 48 hours. Overall, borax treatments appear to be most effective when followed by warm summers with ample soil moisture. Remember: This borax solution has been tested on creeping charlie in lawns; it has not been tested for use on other broadleaf weeds. You should not try it on anything but creeping charlie. Research shows established grass is tolerant of the spray when used at the suggested rate, but you cannot generalize to garden plants or shrubbery. Try it only in the lawn.

If creeping charlie is growing in a shady location, think carefully about what you can replace it with before attempting to kill it. Unless you can establish other plants there, you'll find the creeping charlie eventually sprouting again in the same location, as it is quite shade tolerant. Most plants are not particularly shade tolerant – especially lawn grasses.

A healthy lawn remains the strongest defense against weeds. Maintaining a regime of proper mowing, watering, and fertilizing will help prevent or minimize most lawn weed infestations. Contact your local County Extension office or check with the Yard & Garden Line at http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden for information on lawn maintenance and fertilization.

Over the Phone Diagnosing of Tree and Shrub Disease
Janna Beckerman, Extension Plant Pathologist

Landscape evergreens. Photo credit:  Beth Jarvis
When answering plant health questions over the phone, the most common category of questions concern tree health. Trees are generally the most expensive plants that a homeowner purchases. They are viewed and marketed as an investment that adds value to their property. Children are often found playing in them, and homeowners value the shade they provide in the heat of summer. For these reasons, homeowners are both financially and emotionally invested in their trees, and are more likely to call with questions concerning any problem associated with them.

Although I have yet to develop a flow chart or cheat sheet, I have developed a series of questions that should help create dialog and enable you to develop a picture of what may be occurring when you are asked questions concerning tree or shrub health. These questions complement the previously written series "How to Manage Plant Health Problems Over the Phone or by Internet. Part I" which can be found at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLN-Apr1502.html#questions

Gingko's fan-shaped
leaves are easy to ID Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis
What type of tree is it?
REASON: Because most plant disease problems are host specific, by identifying the plant you've reduced the possible number of diseases from the millions to a mere dozen (or two!).

Follow-up question: Although many callers can correctly identify their tree, don't assume they are correct. One helpful trick (taught to me by Beth Jarvis) involves asking them if their "pine tree" has one, two or three, or five needle bundles. "One-needled" pines are usually spruce, although Douglas-fir and true fir are also possibilities (have the homeowner remove a needle-a round scar is probably fir. If the removed needle has some bark, then it is probably spruce or Douglas-fir. At this point, you should really be requesting a sample to confirm that you know what your host plant is!); two- and three- needled pines are the hard pines, such as jack, Scot's, Austrian or Norway pine, and five needle pines are white pines. All of these "pines" have different disease problems associated with them.

Upright cones, flat needles and round needle scars on fir. Photo credit:  Beth Jarvis
Always ask for the name of the cultivar or to read you the plant label it if is still present. If the caller tells you they have an oak, be sure to ask if it has pointy leaves (red oak family) or rounded leaves (white oak family). Ask about acorns, or other seed structures. Before providing any information, make certain that the tree has been correctly identified!

Whenever possible, identify the plant to cultivar level. Some cultivars are uniquely susceptible or resistant to a specific disease or phytotoxic compounds. For example, certain apple cultivars are hypersensitive to the strobularin class of fungicides (application results in tissue and even tree death!). Many apples and crabapples are resistant to scab or fire blight; certain azalea cultivars are more susceptible to powdery mildew. Knowing the cultivar allows you to give added consideration to some problems will discounting (but not dismissing!) others.

When was the tree planted?
REASON: New plants often go through transplant shock. It is likely something is wrong with the way the plant was planted or its care afterwards. This would require a different set of questions than if the plant was established and developed symptoms years later.

Follow-up Question: How was the plant cared for after planting? Transplant shock is a leading cause of death, killing trees within the season of planting.
REASON: Trees can and do die of old age. Pie cherries, like 'North Star' and 'Meteor' live approximately 10-15 years. Silver maples average about 70 years, and cottonwoods usually break up and die before age 100. Old age for an urban birch would be 35!

REASON: Certain diseases and decline are associated with older trees (e.g., Colorado blue spruce rarely suffers from Cytospora canker until the trees are at least 15-20 years old).

Premature fall color on stressed tree.
When does the tree develop autumn colors?
REASON: Early autumn color development is a symptom of stem girdling roots, Verticillium wilt and non-specific tree decline. Trees that change color or drop leaves in August are exhibiting stress symptoms. It's your job to help the homeowner determine what the underlying cause is.

Follow-up Questions: How is the tree planted? Is there a visible flare to the base of the tree? Are there wilting branches or dieback in the crown? If branches are removed, is there vascular staining visible?

Fall needle drop. Photo credits:  Beth Jarvis
When did needle drop begin?
REASON: Conifers undergo a normal fall needle drop in autumn. Homeowners should be concerned if needle discoloration or drop begins in spring through summer.

How big was it when it was planted?
REASON: Many homeowners wish to plant an "instant tree." These larger trees suffer tremendous root loss during the transplantation process. As a result, the aboveground portion of the tree often dies back because there is an insufficient root mass to maintain the canopy. Dieback may continue for several seasons until the root-to-canopy ratio is balanced. In some instances, the root loss leads to a feedback between increasing canopy loss, subsequent root loss and ultimately, death of the entire tree. In the case of trees, bigger is not always better.

REASON: Smaller trees, while not undergoing as transplant shock to the degree of their larger counterparts, suffer from other problems, namely lack of respect. Animals and young children often damage smaller trees. The fact that smaller trees are not as well established means they may not be able to respond to smaller insults, such as minor defoliation due to insects or disease.

Follow-up question: How long has this problem been evident?

Excess pruning? Longwood Garden, Pa. Photo credit:  Beth Jarvis
How do you care for the trees? Surprisingly, most people don't care for their trees-at all!
REASON: The purpose of this question is two-fold: That trees require maintenance, and to develop background information about possible causes to the problem.

Follow-up question: Do you water, prune and/or fertilize? If so, when, how much and how often?

Is there flare at the tree base, or is it just straight in the ground?
REASON: Trees are often planted too deeply. These trees are predisposed to stem girdling roots (SGR) which can result in stress and even tree death. Another phenomenon is people removing the flares through constant mowing or cutting them off!

Roots rotted away. Photo credit:  Beth Jarvis
Are roots visible at the surface? If so, what are they doing (wrapping around the tree etc.).
REASON: Compacted, or heavy clay soil often prevents proper root anchorage. Roots can wrap around each other (root-girdling roots), or the main stem (SGR). Poor root growth will manifest itself in an unhealthy tree.

How do you keep the grass from the trunk?
REASON: This is a "trick question," because most people don't keep the grass away from the trunk and go to great pains to grow grass all the way to the main stem of the tree. The main point of this question is to find out how they have grass competing with the tree or mulch under the tree.

Follow up Question: Is there injury around the base of the tree? Weed-eaters and lawnmower damage can girdle the tree trunk.

Mower damage. Photo credit:  Beth Jarvis
Describe the trunk. Are there any cracks, galls, cankers or conks?
REASON: People will often focus on dying, blighted foliage, but not acknowledge injury to the main stem or branches. These injuries prevent proper translocation of water from the roots, and photosynthate from the crown. Symptoms appear in the foliage, but the actual problem is many feet below the crown of the tree, where the gall or canker is causing the damage.

A healthy tree should not have conks, or mushrooms growing out of the bark or main stem. These are signs that heart rot or wood decay have begun to set in. These fruiting structures need to be evaluated in person for an accurate diagnosis to take place.

What level of dieback do you see? Is it more than half or less than half?

Trees, Shrubs and the top three diseases associated with them.

Apple/Crabapple Scab Fire blight Cedar-apple rust
Ash Anthracnose Rust Yellows
Black Hills Spruce Rhizosphaera Normal fall needle drop  
Red cedar Cedar-apple rust Phomopsis blight Root rot
Colorado Blue Spruce Rhizosphaera Cytospora canker Normal fall needle drop
American Elm Dutch elm disease Black Spot Anthracnose
Oak-Red or White Oak wilt Anthracnose Misc. cankers
Maple Anthracnose Verticillium Misc. cankers and leaf spots
Pine-Red, Scots, Austrian, Mugo Sphaeropsis Dothistroma Brown Spot
Cherry/Plum Black knot Shot hole Plum pockets
Pine-White White pine blister rust Iron Chlorosis Normal fall needle drop
Lilac Powdery mildew Bacterial blight Phytophthora blight
Azalea Powdery mildew Phytophthora blight Iron Chlorosis
Rose Black Spot Rust Anthracnose
Dogwood Misc. cankers Septoria leaf spot Powdery mildew


Please check out the new diagnostics web pages at
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/diagnostics/

A Bug Bite Is Not Always a Bug Bite
Andy Birkey, Entomology Technician

Samples from person with mystery bites. Photo credits: Jeff Hahn
Occasionally, the Yard & Garden Clinic receives inquiries about unknown 'insects' that infest the skin. People may describe these mystery insects as having many legs, the ability to change color, and when captured, the ability to disappear. They claim that they infest clothing and furniture, and that they attack from above, jumping from the ceiling onto the victim. They also say they must be rare, because pest control companies cannot find them although they seem to be everywhere.

These creatures do not exist.

People tend to blame every unexplained itch or bump on an insect or arthropod; it is easy to incorrectly identify insects as the cause of bite-like symptoms. Sometimes the belief that insects are the cause can be very powerful, to the extent that information from an entomologist or pest control technician fails to change the client's mind. They may be so convinced of an insect infestation that they avoid family and friends for fear of contaminating others, and they may sell their homes and move away in order to escape the imaginary insects. Furthermore, even though clients are sure that insects are responsible, the samples submitted to the Yard & Garden Clinic contain only lint, scabs, and other miscellaneous debris often captured on tape or in sticky traps. Sometimes non-biting insects are received but all are harmless to people.

While this behavior may seem strange to people not suffering from these unknown itches, it is very real and frustrating to the individual. Delusory parasitosis is a psychological condition characterized by the unshakeable belief that insects are attacking or living under the skin even though professionals have ruled out any possibility of insects. The individual may have sores from scratching and trying to remove the imaginary creatures from the skin. It is important to understand that the symptoms in these cases are real even though the pests are not.

What can cause unexplained skin irritations?
It is possible that some insects can bite so it is extremely important to positively identify biting insects before treating the problem.Never use pesticides to treat a home unless an entomologist or pest control company has positively identified biting insects. Pesticides can actually make the itch worse and are toxic to people and pets. In the winter, there are only a few insect/arthropods that may be responsible for bites.

· Bed bugs. Bed bugs are about 3/16 inch long, round, reddish brown, and wingless. Bedbugs leave tiny bloodspots on sheets and blankets and they molt as they grow, leave a light colored 'skin' around furniture. Although bedbugs hide, their presence is usually detected within a short amount of time.

· Fleas can leave bites especially on the on the lower legs and waist, and jump off before you notice what bit you. One way to test if fleas are present is to walk across the carpet in white socks. The dark brown fleas will be very noticeable on the white background of the socks as they jump to a person to take a blood meal.

· Bird mites occasionally attack people, but normally are just a summertime pest. These mites can bite people when they are away from their host. They do not live on humans and cannot reproduce without feeding on their host. Rodent mites less frequently attack people making them very rare pests. However, if mice or rats are present, it is possible that they could be the cause.

Identify environmental causes
Once you have ruled out the possibility of insects causing an irritation, look for other sources. The low humidity associated with winter causes two types of irritation that may be mistaken for insects. Low humidity causes dry skin which can be very itchy and feel similar to an insect bite. Low humidity also results in increased static electricity that causes small particles from paper, fabric, or carpeting to become attracted to the skin. These particles can create the sensation of 'bugs' crawling on the skin.

Other sources of irritation that might be mistaken for bug bites include:
· cosmetics, soaps, and detergents
· skin sensitivity to household products
· clothing (especially wool)
· new furnace filters can release small fibers that may irritate the skin
· indoor air pollution
· the sap of some houseplants such as Ficus, Poinsettia, Pothos, Caladium, and Philodendron

Identify medical causes
Medical conditions often cause skin irritations that may be mistaken for insect bites.
These include:
· medical conditions such as pregnancy, liver or kidney disease, and herpes
· side effects from prescription and over the counter medication
· allergic reactions to household products
· hay fever or pollen, mold, or dust allergies
· stress

Consider consulting a professional
 A dermatologist or other medical professional may be able to help identify sources of irritation that may have been overlooked.

For more info, please read the publications from the University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension : http://lancaster.unl.edu/enviro/pest/factsheets/009-95.htm and the University of California http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7443.html.

Get the low down on this month's insect pests at Insects http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/EntWeb/Ent.htm

Editorial Notes

Keukenhof Gardens,
Netherlands, in April Photo credit:  Beth Jarvis
The hedge sheared to resemble a Scottie dog was taken at Longwood Gardens, in Pennyslvania. Fascinating place to visit, but if you're short on time or cash, there's always their website: http://www.longwoodgardens.org/Default.htm.

I'd thought about writing about spring travel in the Netherlands for those of you yearning to break free of winter, such as it is. Didn't get too far but here sre some links if you are planning a trip or perhaps to just daydream or reminisce over.

Spring travel to Europe is less expensive due to shoulder season fares--more than winter but less than summer. Last winter, my travel agent beat the Web on airfare and found an inexpensive rental car deal. It's easy to book lodging on line in Holland, if you start 2 months in advance for best choice of dates. I left home on April 11 and spent 10 days traipsng thru Holland.

Floriade, the one year out of every 10 year flower show, is over until 2012, but there's still lots to see! Here's a link, w/English option, for Keukenhof Gardens, a must if spring finds you in Holland. http://www.keukenhof.com/. I found a site with very nice pix of Keukenhof, Floriade 2002, Amsterdam, etc. at http://www.europebyphoto.com/virtual-tours.html

If you want to see the famous flower market, called Bloemenveiling, at Aalsmeer, you can read about it here: http://www.vba.nl/.

One of the oldest botanical gardens in Europe can be reached by the special tourist street car, Circle Tram 20, that will take you to the museums, Anne Frank House, and (drum roll) the Hortus Botanicus, Amsterdam. You can scout it out now at: http://www.hortus-botanicus.nl/engels.html.

Hortus Bulborum, in Limmon, maintains some of the world's oldest tulips. It's a nice drive into the country northwest of Amsterdam. Or an easy mouse click: http://www.hortus-bulborum.nl/ .

Speaking of tulips, Clusius, the man credited with bringing tulips to Holland, was head botanist at Hortus Botanicus, Leiden. Linnaeus supposedly spent time there, too. http://www.leiden.edu/index.php3?c=143

The stretch of road between Haarlem and Leiden is called the Bollenstreek or tulip trail. I wish I'd found this driving tour of the trail a year ago! http://lissebulbs.com/English/tour.html

Some of the most interesting display gardens aren't mentioned in the tourist literature. There are 6 that seem to be related. I visited the first two:
De tuinen van Appeltern www.appeltern.nl
Jan Boomkamp Gardens www.boomkamp.com
Botanische vijvertuin Ada Hofman www.adahofman.nl
Mondo Verde www.mondoverde.nl
Kasteeltuinen Arcen www.kasteeltuinen.nl
De Rhulenhof www.rhulenhof.nl

The majority of the Dutch speak English and you can figure out a lot of printed Dutch because there are a lot of borrowed words in English.

Next month, Lee Frelich, of Forest Resources, will tell us all about the dangers cause to our woodland by earthworms. I have also assembled a panel of fearless prognosticators who will speculate on what we'll see when the snow melts/spring comes. My panel includes: Patrick Weicherding, Forestry; Doug Foulk, Fruit Science; Neil Anderson, Floriculture and Bob Mugaas, Turf Science.

In April, we return to 2 issues per month, so the April 1 issue will feature Doug Courneya, Regional Extension Educator, Olmstead County talking about buckthorn reduction. For April 15, we'll hear from Gopher State One Call, the service that notifies your utility companies to mark where their buried lines run. It's state law, call before you dig!

Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.

Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/. Our home page has clickable links to most of the components of the Yard & Garden Line, such as Bell Museum of Natural History, INFO U and the Soil Testing Lab.

Deb Brown answers gardening questions on Minnesota Public Radio's (MPR) "Midmorning" program on the first Thursday of every month at 10 a.m. Katherine Lanpher hosts the program that is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations.

If you have gardening questions, please call the Yard & Garden Line at (612) 624-4771.

If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to: listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist or to unsubscribe, enter: unsub yglnewslist

Happy gardening!

Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator


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