Yard & Garden Line News Volume 1 Number 14                                                               December 1, 1999

Features this issue: Winter Tips and Tidbits Dormant Season Pruning for Mature Trees New Garden Calendar Available Holiday Diseases:    Broom Rust of Balsam Fir    Brown Spot of Scots Pine    Root Rot of Poinsettia Fruit Flies Fleas, Children and Schools Surinam Cockroaches Selecting Christmas Trees Editorial Notes

Winter Tips and Tidbits
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

By early December, gardening is the last thing on most peoples' minds. None-the-less, there are some plant and garden-related tips that can prove useful this time of year. There are also a few suggested activities that may be just the ticket when you want a little "quiet time" away from the holiday hubbub.

Tips Related to the Holidays:
* Living, potted conifers, whether spruce, pine, or fir, won't make good Christmas trees in our cold climate. They normally can't take the transition from warmth indoors to the extreme cold outdoors, even when you've got a planting hole prepared in advance.

* You need not feel guilty about buying a "real" Christmas tree. They're a renewable resource, planted on marginal land that won't support more intensive agriculture. While they're growing, they shelter wildlife and prevent soil erosion; once harvested the land is replanted with young seedling trees to begin the cycle again.

Norfolk Island pine. Photo credit: Deb Brown

* Norfolk Island pine, a popular houseplant, can work well as a small, table-top Christmas tree. Keep it in a sunny window and allow the soil to dry a little between thorough waterings. Use tiny, lightweight decoration, including lights that don't give off much heat.

* Poinsettias have been scientifically proven nontoxic, but not all holiday plants are safe if eaten by a youngster or pet. Watch out particularly for mistletoe and holly berries that may break off and fall within easy reach of toddlers. As soon as they're old enough to understand, teach children never to put non-food plants in their mouths.

* Fresh flowers make every holiday occasion more festive. To help them last longer, remove any foliage that will sit below the water. Recut their stems under water, then transfer them immediately to a clean vase filled with lukewarm water that has floral preservative dissolved in it. Once they're arranged, put them in a cool place, out of direct sunlight.

* Great holiday gifts for gardeners: a year's membership to the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (call 612-443-2478) or the Minnesota State Horticultural Society (call 651-643-3601), or a copy of the new Minnesota Gardening calendar (612-624-4900).

Houseplant Tips:
* Check houseplants frequently to see if they need water. Dry heated air can cause them to lose moisture more rapidly than they do in spring and summer when it's more humid indoors. On the other hand, if you keep your home on the cool side, houseplants may need less frequent watering now.

* Reduce or eliminate houseplant fertilizing during short winter days unless your plants continue to grow actively. Sometimes windows are actually brighter in winter because trees have shed their leaves, but most plants grow more slowly than in spring and summer because there are so few hours of bright light each day.

* Wash your plants with lukewarm water to which you've added a few drops of mild dishwashing liquid. Dust and grime not only look bad on the leaves, they filter what limited light we have this time of year and also invite insect pests.

Spider mites on podocarpus. Photo credit: Deb Brown

* Inspect houseplant leaves -- especially the undersides -- for the fine webbing and pinprick yellow discoloration that signals spider mite infestation. These common pests thrive in warm dry indoor growing conditions, but are very difficult to see without magnification.

* Houseplants growing close to windows are at risk of injury from chilling. Each night pull shades, curtains or blinds over cold windows or cover the glass panes with sheets of cardboard to protect nearby plants.

* Consider setting up supplementary fluorescent lighting for houseplants with high light requirements. Incandescent lights don't help much. They put out too much heat, and the light they emit is almost all in the red end of the spectrum. Plants need both red and "blue" wavelengths to maintain normal growth.

Outdoor Tips:
* From an environmental standpoint, spreading sand is the best way to deal with icy sidewalks, steps and driveways. If you'd like to use a de-icer, try urea nitrogen fertilizer. It can burn plants if there's a heavy concentration in one area, but used with restraint it actually helps fertilize grass and shrubs adjacent to treated areas.

* After the holidays, chop the branches off your Christmas tree and lay them over bulb beds and perennial gardens. The added insulation helps protect plants against fluctuating soil temperatures and early warm-up. You could also poke the branches into the ground to form a shield or baffle to the south or west side of smaller evergreens that tend to suffer drying and winterburn most years.

* Take time this winter to plan landscape improvements for next season. There's more time to talk to experts and look through books for ideas when you don't have a list of yard and garden chores to work on. Many landscape designers and landscape architects are also less rushed this time of year.

Just for Fun:
* Plant paperwhite narcissus bulbs in a shallow container of soil or gravel. They need no special cold treatment, only a steady supply of moisture. Keep the container in bright sunlight. You might have to stake or tie flowering stems upright if they grow too floppy. These delicate little flowers send out a fragrance that will permeate your home.

* Sprout alfalfa seeds in a jar in your cupboard for a steady supply of crunchy, tasty salad fixings. It's easy and only takes a few days. All you need is a glass jar with cheesecloth covering the opening. Use untreated seed from a food co-op or mail order catalog. Once they're large enough, be sure to expose your sprouts to sunlight to green them up. That way they'll be tastier and more nutritious.

Dormant Season Pruning for Mature Trees (Maintenance Pruning)
Patrick Weicherding
Extension Educator, Horticulture, Anoka County

People tend to forget about their trees during the winter months. We assume that because the trees are dormant, little or no care is necessary or even possible.

Actually, the winter months can, and should, be utilized by those of us who are concerned with the health of our trees. While dormant pruning provides the same benefits as does pruning during other times of the year, it has definite advantages in certain situations as in the case of maintenance pruning of mature trees.

Increased Growth Response
When a portion of a tree’s canopy is removed during the dormant season, we often notice an increase in new growth from the remaining branches. This occurs because the energy stored in the roots and branches is channeled to fewer growth points the following spring. Because the same amount of energy is spread among fewer growth points, each new shoot grows a little more than it would have if the tree had not been pruned.

Easily Viewed Branching Patterns
The absence of leaves allows the branching patterns of trees to be easilyseen. One of the major benefits of pruning mature trees is improved tree structure. Crossing branches and weak crotches are easily seen and corrected during the winter months.

Improved Equipment Access
During the winter months when the ground is frozen, equipment can often be moved closer to the trees being pruned. Because the ground is frozen, lawn damage is not as great a concern and the improved access may reduce cleanup time.

Less Injury to Flower Beds
During the summer, it is common for the area underneath trees to be planted with annual or perennial flowers. It requires more time and effort to efficiently prune such trees without causing damage to fragile plants beneath the tree canopy. Even a small branch dropped by a climber can break or crush fragile blossoms or foliage. Clean up is also more complicated when flowers are present. Pruning mature trees over flower and shrub beds can be done more efficiently during the dormant season.

Improved Pest Management Benefits
Pruning mature trees during the dormant season also minimizes the risk of disease spread via pruning cuts. For example, in areas where oak wilt is a concern, pruning oaks during the winter can minimize the spread of the disease. Insects that carry the disease from infected trees to fresh pruning cuts during the spring and summer are not present during the winter. Thus, the trees can be pruned without worrying that the oak wilt pathogen will be introduced into the fresh cuts.

Less Impact on Recreational Activities
People tend to use their yards more extensively during the summer months. A large scale pruning operation often requires a great deal of noisy equipment. Chainsaws, chippers, and blowers create large amounts of noise that many people find irritating. During the winter months, people are indoors and the noise associated with pruning operations is not as bothersome.

Mature Tree Pruning Guidelines

The goal of pruning mature trees is to maintain their structure and form by removing dead branches, and by thinning large branches to reduce weight and wind resistance and allow light penetration to maintain inner growth. Remember, however, pruning should always be performed sparingly. Overpruning is extremely harmful because without enough leaves, a tree cannot gather and process enough sunlight to survive. The types of mature tree pruning are:

Crown Cleaning, the removal of dead, dying, diseased, weakly attached branches and watersprouts from a tree’s crown.

Crown Thinning, the selective removal of live branches to increase light penetration and air movement.

Crown Raising, the removal of the lower branches of a tree to provide clearance for buildings, vehicles and pedestrians.

Crown Reduction, which uses thinning cuts to make the crown smaller when it has grown too large for the space it occupies. The lateral branch to which the leader or branch is cut should be at least one-third the diameter of the branch being removed.

Crown Restoration, used to improve the structure of trees that have sprouted vigorously following breakage or being pruned by heading cuts. Sprouts are thinned, cut to laterals, or headed, in the case of vigorous unbranched sprouts.

Utility Pruning, which maintains minimum clearances from electrical conductors. Lateral or directional pruning is the removal of a branch to the trunk, or a significant lateral branch growing away from the conductor.

The Kindliest Cut of All

Illustrations: P. Weicherding

Pruning cut quality is one method of identifying a trained arborist. Pruning cuts can be separated into three categories: 1) flush cuts, 2) proper cuts and, 3) stub cuts. Flush cuts and stub cuts will lead to problems such as extensive decay, cracks, insect and disease problems and hazard trees. Improper pruning works against a tree’s natural defenses. Proper pruning works with a tree’s defense system.

Proper pruning cuts do not injure the branch bark ridge or the branch collar. The branch bark ridge is the raised line of bark that forms between the branch and the trunk. The branch bark ridge lengthens outward as the branch and trunk in diameter.

The branch collar is the living, swollen trunk tissue that surrounds the base of a branch. The size and prominence of the branch collar and branch bark ridge varies between individual trees and tree species.

The branch bark ridge and the branch collar are involved with the natural defense mechanisms of a tree. Flush cuts are made inside the branch bark ridge or the branch collar. Such cuts destroy the tissues of the tree that defend against decay. Pathogens can then easily move into the main trunk. In addition, cracks often begin to form at the boundaries of flush cuts as the tree begins to seal off the wounded area.
Proper pruning cuts are made as close to the branch bark ridge and branch collar as possible, without removing or injuring it. Such cuts allow the defense mechanism of the tree to function at maximum capacity. This minimizes the spread of decay organisms into the tree trunk.
If the pruning cut is made too far away from the branch collar, a stub will remain. Stubs provide a perfect energy source for insect pests and disease organisms. The tissues they contain are alive, but have no defense mechanisms. Once entrenched, decay organisms from a stub can often breach the protection zones of the tree at the branch collar. The result is the same as that for a flush cut; decays organisms gain access into the trunk.
Proper pruning is one of the best things a person can do for their trees. Improper pruning is one of the worst. Arm yourself with the knowledge about what proper pruning is and what it is not.
Remember a healthy tree will seal on its own, so wound dressings, which may actually interfere with this process, are not necessary. To aid in the recovery of pruning wounds, water and mulch your trees well. If you are not confident in the particular pruning needs of your tree, contact your local certified arborist.

New Garden Calendar Available
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

Minnesota Gardening 2000 calendar.

Look for the calendar with masses of bold sunflowers on the cover. Minnesota Gardening, 2000 is now available in major book stores such as Barnes and Noble, garden centers including Bachman's and others throughout the state, gift shops, county extension offices, and directly from the University. (To order from the U, call 612-624-4900, metro, or 1-800-876-8636, greater Minnesota.)To preview the calendar go to: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG7358.html.

This is the tenth in a series of award-winning calendars published by the University of Minnesota Extension Service and Agricultural Experiment Station, and like its predecessors, it has been written by Extension Horticulturist Deb Brown, specifically for people interested in gardening and landscaping in our challenging northern climate.

In addition to beautiful photography, climate maps, and a list of practical tips each month, the year 2000 calendar features a page on growing amaryllis bulbs. There is also information about many of the different organizations concerned with helping people with their gardening and landscape questions and activities, including the address and phone number for every county extension office in the state.

Minnesota Gardening, 2000 would make an excellent holiday gift for your gardening friends and relatives. It's also a particularly nice memento for people who lived in Minnesota, but have moved away. Calendars are shrink-wrapped and spiral bound, using highest quality paper. Suggested retail price is $11.95

Test your diagnostic savvy monthly with Disease Watch at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/Plpa.htm
Holiday Diseases
Chad Behrendt, Extension Plant Pathologist

Every year a variety of different diseases threaten to put a damper on the holiday season, by degrading the quality and overall appearance of Christmas trees and poinsettias. As a result, growers must be aware of the different disease problems and how to manage them. Although the general public may rarely encounter the following diseases, some of these diseases do pose a threat to ornamental conifers, as well.

Broom Rust of Balsam Fir

Large witch's broom

Large broom, closeup.

Fir broom rust is a fungal disease that occurs on the branches of most native fir. The distinguishing characteristic of fir broom rust is the large proliferation of growth, called a witch’s broom. This broom consists of multiple upright branches with thick, shortened needles. Although these brooms start off small, they can eventually reach sizes of several feet in diameter. The always-popular balsam fir Christmas tree is a common host of broom rust. Even though fir broom rust can cause a loss in tree quality, it is rarely considered a major threat to Christmas trees.

Fir broom rust, like most rust diseases, requires two hosts to complete its life cycle. The alternate host, chickweed, is infected in summer by specialized spores called aeciospores, which are produced on the needles of fir. After infection of the chickweed leaves, the fungus produces two types of spores, urediniospores and basidiospores. Urediniospores are cyclic, meaning they can reinfect the same host, while basidiospores are not cyclic and infect the buds of fir. The following spring basidiospores infect fir needles. Upon infection, the fungus stimulates the formation of a witch’s broom. The following summer aecial spores are again produced, completing the two-year disease cycle.

The conspicuous pale green needles in spring or yellow needles in summer, along with the large proliferation of growth make fir broom rust an easy disease to identify. To manage fir broom rust, prune and destroy all brooms. This removes the fungal infection on fir and disrupts the disease cycle. However, it is also important to control chickweed, since the fungus can survive winter on chickweed plants and produce spores in the spring. To prevent the production of basidiospores and urediniospores, remove and destroy all chickweed plants. Burning, mowing, or applying herbicides are three options for destroying chickweed.

Brown Spot of Scots Pine

Photo credit: Chad Behrendt

Brown spot is a fungal disease that commonly infects Scots pine, another popular Christmas tree. This disease is often considered a serious threat to Christmas trees, because it causes browning of the needles and premature needle loss. Although brown spot rarely kills Christmas trees, severe infections render Christmas trees unsalable.

Brown spot typically occurs near the base of the tree where moisture levels are the highest. Individual reddish-brown, circular spots with a yellow halo begin to appear on the needles in late summer. As these spots enlarge and the fungus continues to grow, they girdle the needle killing it. As the needle dies it turns yellow and then brown from the tip inward. Brown needles are most frequently seen from August through October. After the needle has died the fungus forms black reproductive structures called acervuli. These structures are visible as they emerge from the needles during wet periods. Spores released from these structures infect the new growth and older needles from late spring to early fall, with the greatest rate of infection occurring in June and July.

To manage brown spot try to maintain tree health by properly watering, fertilizing, and mulching. If infections are severe, fungicides such as chlorothalonil may be needed. In Christmas tree plantations remove and destroy severely infected trees and Scots pine trees along windbreaks.

Root Rot of Poinsettia

Pointsettia. Photo credit: Deb Brown

Poinsettia, like all other plants, is susceptible to root rot. A number of different fungi are known to cause root rot of Poinsettia. These fungi survive and live in the soil, and are stimulated by wet conditions. As a result, over-watering of potted Poinsettia plants creates ideal conditions for infection.

Poinsettia infected by root rot fungi may begin to show symptoms of poor growth, drought stress, yellowing leaves near the base of the plant, or leaf drop. It is important to check soil moisture before watering plants, so that you do not mistake root rot symptoms with poor growth or drought stress and over-water plants. To manage root rot monitor soil moisture and water as needed.

Fruit Flies
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

Fruit fly Photo credit: Entomology Dept.

One of the most common small flies found indoors during fall and winter is the fruit fly. Most fruit flies are about 1/8 inch long, have red eyes and an abdomen that appears to be striped. If a fly can not be identified from that description, then an entomologist needs to examine the wing venation for a definitive identification.

Fruit flies are found around fermenting and rotting food smells. They commonly infest old, overripe fruits and vegetables, food residue in sinks, garbage disposals, trash containers, and floor drains, and soft-drink, wine and beer residue.

Sometimes you need to think creatively. In one case, fruit flies were found infesting used tea in a tea maker that had been brewed once but not cleaned, then put away in a cupboard. Regardless of what and where their food source is, fruit fly infestations share several common factors: they are in relatively quiet, undisturbed areas, fermenting organic material is present, and the food is kept damp.

The most effective control is to remove the food source. This could be as straightforward as disposing of the last onion that was forgotten in the back of a cupboard or using a brush to clean out ‘gunk' that has accumulated in the drain of a sink. The infestation is not necessarily located where fruit flies are found; the food source could be nearby or in a completely different room. Once you find an infestation keep checking as there could be more than one food source.

Insecticides have limited value in controlling fruit flies. Spraying adult flies may reduce the number that you see in the short-term, but will not really control them as long as a food source exists. Patience and persistence are important in a permanent solution to a fruit fly problem.

Fleas, Children and Schools
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

Cat fleas feeding. Photo credit: Nancy Hinkle

In cases in two different counties, a child ‘that was infested with fleas' was asked by school health officials to stay at home until the problem was taken care of. In one case, a flea was identified from a submitted sample while in the second case the insect in question was not confirmed. It is a standard procedure to not allow children to attend school when they have been diagnosed with head lice. This helps prevent lice from being spread to other children. However, this is not necessary when children are being bitten by fleas.

While fleas are certainly a health concern because of their bites, children are not a risk to bring them to school. Fleas jump onto a person to bite them, but then jump off when they are done feeding, giving students little opportunity to bring them to class. Even if a student were to inadvertently carry a flea to school, the flea would have essentially no chance of surviving. Although fleas bite people, they do not reproduce on human blood. Without cats, dogs, or other mammals, fleas do not survive and reproduce. If a child should have a problem with fleas at home, the fleas should definitely be dealt with there. However, there is no reason to prevent the student from attending school.

Surinam Cockroaches
Jeffrey Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

Surinam cockroaches are occasionally found in Minnesota. Adult females are about 3/4 - 1 inch long, with light brown wings and a dark chocolate brown pronotum (behind the head). The immature nymphs are smaller, dark brown, and lack wings. Originally from southeast Asia, Surinam cockroaches, have established themselves outdoors in just a few southern states in the U. S. They can be accidently transported to Minnesota and other northern states, but they don't survive outdoors.

When they do reach Minnesota, Surinam cockroaches can be a problem in greenhouses. They can also be found in homes, offices, malls, and other buildings but they are not considered a pest. Surinam cockroaches are usually associated with potted plants. They typically burrow and can be found up to three to four inches in the soil of potted plants. If Surinam cockroaches are found in homes or other buildings, they generally remain in the soil and are easy to control. The best control is a residual insecticide drench, applied by a commercial applicator, into the soil of infested plants. See the University of Florida web site at: http://gnv.ifas.ufl.edu/~fairsweb/images/en/surnmrch.gif for an illustration of a Surinam cockroach adult.

Get the low down on this month's insect pests at Insects http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/Ent.htm


Selecting Christmas Trees
Doug Foulk, Extension Educator-Horticulture, Ramsey County

Selecting and bringing home a fresh Christmas tree is a traditional and enjoyable way to celebrate the holiday season. A few tips will help you find the tree you want and keep it at its best through the holidays.

Christmas trees are available pre-cut at retail outlets and seasonal lots, or may be obtained at cut-your-own tree farms.

Before purchasing a pre-cut tree, you might want to determine when the tree was cut, where it came from, and how it was transported. Some lots sell trees cut weeks earlier and transported in uncovered flatbed trucks; these trees may dry out prematurely. If a very fresh, long-lasting pre-cut tree is important to you, find a vendor selling trees that are grown regionally and are harvested and transported shortly before sale. With this fall's drought, even locally cut trees may be very dry.

If purchasing a pre-cut tree, check it for freshness. Two methods to help you determine freshness are: 1) bending a needle and 2) thumping the base. A bent needle should spring back, not break, and thumping the base of a tree against the ground should yield few fallen needles. If a tree fails either test, keep looking.

The surest way to purchase a fresh tree is to cut it yourself at a tree farm. Many tree farms are located within easy driving distance of the Twin Cities and throughout the state. Pre-cut or cut-your-own, you have many tree choices and should understand the pros and cons of each available species.

SCOTCH (SCOTS) PINE (Pinus sylvestris)
Scotch pine is the most widely planted pine species for Christmas tree production in Minnesota. Needle retention is excellent and fragrance is good. The foliage of some varieties of Scotch pine change in autumn from green to various shades of yellow-green, so an artificial colorant is often used to make them look greener. Scotch pines are trimmed to grow full, which provides lots of outside surface to decorate, but not much room for ornaments in the interior of the tree.

WHITE PINE (Pinus strobus) This species has gained favor in recent years because of its flexible soft needles, full appearance, excellent fragrance, and blue-green color. It holds its needles well. White pine is reputed to cause fewer allergic reactions than other Christmas tree species.

RED (NORWAY) PINE (Pinus resinosa), The red pine is Minnesota's state tree. Its needles are in clusters of two and are longer than those of either Scotch or white pine. Needle retention is similar to that of other pines.

COLORADO SPRUCE (Picea pungens)
Spruces hold their needles less well than other Christmas trees, but Colorado spruce is the best of the spruces for needle retention. The sharp, stiff blue-green needles can make handling the tree unpleasant but are reputed to prevent cat attacks as well. The conical, open architecture of the tree makes it an excellent foundation for numerous decorations. Fragrance is unexceptional.

Photo credit: Jim Calkins

WHITE SPRUCE (Picea glauca)
White spruce is similar in needle retention to Colorado spruce. The tree has a nice conical form and a greener color than Colorado spruce. Some people object to the odor of the foliage. A variety of white spruce, Black Hills spruce (Picea glauca var. densata), is sometimes sold as well. The needles of Black Hills spruce are shorter and darker green in color than those of white spruce.

BALSAM FIR (Abies balsamea) Balsam fir is the only true fir native to Minnesota. Needles are flat, 3/4 to 1-1/4 inches long, dark green, are retained well, and are deliciously fragrant. The open branch arrangement is good for decorating, but the flexible branch tips may limit the use of heavier ornaments.

FRASER FIR (Abies fraseri) Fraser fir has soft short needles and somewhat twisted branches that expose the deep bluish underside of the needles. This species has both excellent fragrance and needle retention and often fetches a premium price.

CANAAN FIR (Abies balsamea var. phanerolepis ) is a relative newcomer to the Christmas tree market and is similar to both balsam and Fraser fir.

CHRISTMAS TREE CARE If a tree will not be brought into the house immediately after purchase, store it in an unheated garage or outside in a spot protected from sun and wind. Whenever you do bring the tree inside, remove 1" of the base to allow the tree to easily absorb water. Position the tree away from heat sources in a sturdy stand with a large water reservoir.

The use of a commercially available preservative product may prolong the freshness of your tree. However, the most important factor in Christmas tree freshness is plenty of water. A tree of average height will consume as much as two quarts of water per day at first, so it may be necessary to check water levels more than once per day. Maintain enough water in the stand to keep the base of the tree submerged at all times. The tree will gradually decrease its water consumption over time.

Editorial Notes

Fullmoon maple on granite, Seattle Photo credit: Beth Jarvis

Once again, we seem to be on borrowed time with somewhat warmer than normal temps and scant to no snow cover. I don't mind a bit!

Speaking of cover, in January, Larry Zilliox will report on the Douglas Co. Master Gardeners' apple project. They put plastic sandwich bags over developing apples to eliminate the need to spray insecticides.

In following months, Erica Davis, Hennepin Co. will discuss the new blueberry cultivars info. Doug Foulk, Ramsey Co. will talk about apple rootstocks and Christian Thill will write about potatoes. I'm also hoping to have a piece on flowers for shade.
A number of these stories are from suggestions from readers, so suggest!!

Yard & Garden Line News has switch to the winter publication schedule. We will publish only on the first the month from now until April. Then, we'll resume twice monthly issues, on the first and 15th of the month.

Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.


Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/. Our home page has clickable links to most of the components of the Yard & Garden Line, such as Bell Museum of Natural History, the Water Line, INFO U and the Soil Testing Lab.

Deb Brown answers gardening questions on Minnesota Public Radio's MPR) "Midmorning" program on the first Thursday of every month at 10 a.m. Katherine Lanpher hosts the program that is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations.

If you have gardening questions, please call the Yard & Garden Line at (612) 624-4771.

For plant and insect questions, visit http://www.extension.umn.edu/askmg. Thousands of questions have been answered, so try the search option in the black bar at the top left of the board for the fastest answer.

If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to: listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist or to unsubscribe, enter: unsub yglnewslist

Happy gardening!

Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator

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