Yard & Garden Line News
Volume 6 Number 4                                                               April 1, 2004
Features this issue:
 Beyond Borax and Corn Gluten Meal: Alternative Weed Control Strategies
Award Winning Plants for 2004
Multicolored Asian Lady Beetle Facts
Re-imagining Elm Street 25 Years after the Epidemic
Early April Garden Tips
Editorial Notes

Beyond Borax and Corn Gluten Meal: Alternative Weed Control Strategies
Krishona Martinson, Regional Extension Educator

Overly-zealous flame weeding. Photo credit: Doug Foulk
It seems like homeowners are always looking for new ways to control weeds in their yards or gardens, and it never fails that we are called AFTER the product has failed or the entire yard or garden has been affected. In the past several months, several products have surfaced that claim to have weed controlling properties. Even though some of these products or methods do appear promising, each has its own drawback or problem. Nonetheless, it's good to become familiar with these products and methods prior to the busy summer weed control season!

Vinegar (Acetic Acid)
Acetic acid has shown some effectiveness on weeds. The dilute form of acetic acid, vinegar, is fairly safe, but concentrated acetic acid is very caustic, so beware. Various lawn and garden stores may carry these products, but like any herbicide, it is important to read and follow all directions and safety procedures. The USDA issued a warning in their research report stating; "WARNING: Note that vinegar with acetic acid concentrations greater than 5% may be hazardous and should be handled with appropriate precautions". However, acetic acid is not reported to accumulate in the environment and readily breaks down to water. Interestingly, 24% acetic acid apparently can temporarily decrease soil pH.

Acetic acid is not a selective herbicide and may damage any plant part contacted by the material. The mechanism of action of acetic acid is rapid dissolution of cell membrane integrity resulting in the desiccation of foliar tissues, and ultimately plant death.

Directed applications are necessary to use acetic acid but keep the vinegar away from desired plants. Acetic acid concentrations from 10 to 20% controlled 80 to 100% of the smaller weeds, according to the USDA. Typical concentrations of acetic acid in most commercially available vinegars are 5%, and were reported to provide variable control of small weeds. While acetic acid may burn off the tops of Canada thistle and other perennials, it will not control the root system responsible for regeneration of plants. A recent demonstration suggested that acetic acid is not effective at controlling larger weeds.

The take home message? Vinegar is probably best used prior to grass green-up or garden planting to control small annual weeds. However, be careful when using this product as a weed control method.

Flame Weeding
Flame weeding is used in Europe, but has not been widely used in the United States for the last forty to fifty years. While there are many types of flame weeders, all models burn liquid propane to create temperatures high enough to kill exposed plant parts, insects, and, if hot enough, weed seeds. Burned plants do not immediately collapse and may appear undamaged, but if flaming is effective, they will die within a few days.

Dave Wildung from the North Central Experiment Station has experimented with flame weeding in strawberries. He found that on newly established strawberry plantings, burning weeds was a challenge. Flame weeding was used to control weeds that were taller than the newly planted strawberries. Since strawberry plants are so succulent, it is easy to burn and injure the plants. It also takes several minutes to see burn damage on the strawberry plants, so considerable plant injury can occur in that time. Shields are needed to protect the strawberry plants from the flame and need to be properly adjusted as the plants grow. Strawberry plant and runner growth can be uneven in the row and burning will quickly kill any strawberry runner outside the shield. Burning to control weeds in new plantings was not as effective as normal cultivation and hand weeding.

The take home message? Flame weeding is a challenge and can be dangerous to an untrained user! In organic production, it might be an alternative weed control option, but should not be recommended for use to the "average" home owner.

Sonic Bloom
Sonic Bloom has been around since the 1970's, but lately, appears to be making a comeback (I guess fashion is not the only thing that comes back in)! Sonic Bloom is the creation of Dan Carlson. Carlson was struck by the idea that certain sound frequencies might help a plant breathe better and absorb more nutrients through the stomata. Each stomate--less that 1/1000 of inch across--allows oxygen and water to pass out of the leaf, or transpire, while other gases, notably carbon dioxide, move in to be transformed by photosynthesis into sugars. During dry conditions, the stomata close to prevent a wilting plant from drying out completely. Carlson claims that while using Sonic Bloom, the stomata openings are wider, have a higher leaf density and are more developed and better defined. However, this data has not been verified by independent research.

So why is Sonic Bloom being discussed in a weed control article? Some people claim that because the stomata are open wider, an herbicide can more easily be absorbed into the plant. Although this statement is true in theory, it has not been verified by independent research.

The take home message? Because the claims of Sonic Bloom have not been verified by independent research, Master Gardeners should NOT recommend this product for weed control or increased growth and development of plants.

Self-propelled weeder. Photo credit: Giant Stride Farm
Small Animals
Goats, sheep and donkeys (the miniature type); yes, they are cute and cuddly, but they can be weed-eating machines! These animals are notorious for eating all types of plant material, including thistles and other undesirable weeds. However, they also enjoy succulent lawn grasses, vegetables and desirable shrubs. These animals are also small enough that their manure will easily break down after a rain and it is a good source of organic fertilizer.

Several studies have shown that these animals are excellent weed controllers, but they do enjoy freedom. Fences are sometimes just an obstacle, not a barrier. Like other pets, they also need the basics of care; shelter, water, attention and probably a supplemented diet. On the positive side, they do make good companion animals and are easy to buy and sell at most local animal auctions or local farms. Some places might even "rent" the animal to you for the summer months.

Take home message? Good weed control option for heavy infestations of hard to control weeds for hobby farmers or areas where city ordinances allow these types of animals. However, they will need to be fenced, because like Roundup, they are non-selective weed controllers.

Back to the Basics
Unfortunately, it appears that vinegar, flame weeding, Sonic Bloom and small animals are not viable alternative weed control options for MOST homeowners. Remind homeowners that the most effective method of controlling lawn weeds is to maintain a dense and vigorously growing turf cover. Often turf weeds can be controlled simply by altering the cultural practices to favor the grass plants rather than the weeds. The cultural controls may include raising (or lowering) the mowing height, changing the frequency of mowing, lengthening (or shortening) the period between irrigations, increasing (or decreasing) the application of fertilizer, or aerifying the soil. It's also important to remember, that weeds are often an indication of problems in the grass plant environment, and killing the weeds without correcting the underlying problem will lead to unsatisfactory results. If a herbicide is recommended, remind the homeowner to ALWAYS read and follow labeled instructions carefully.

Take home message? Nothing beats a healthy, well cared for lawn when it comes to environmentally friendly weed control!

References
http://www.barc.usda.gov/anri/sasl/vinegar.html (Vinegar Information)
http://www.extension.umn.edu/mnimpacts/impact.asp?projectID=3589 (Flame Weeding Information)
http://www.sonicbloom.com/background.htm (Sonic Bloom Information)

Award Winning Plants for 2004
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

Athyrium niponicum 'Pictum'-- Perennial Plant of the Year Photo credit: Perennial Plant Assn.
How can gardeners wade through the myriad plant choices offered each year? One approach is to try plants that have been thoroughly tested, then designated "plant of the year" or "All America winner" for 2004. And there are many.

2004 Perennial Plant of the Year:

The Perennial Plant Association is a professional trade association that promotes perennial use through a combination of public education and marketing strategies. They've been naming a plant of the year since 1990. Selection criteria for "Perennial Plant of the Year" include low maintenance, suitability for a wide range of climate types, and whenever possible, multiple seasonal interest.

Their choice for 2004 is Japanese painted fern, Arthyrium niponicum ‘Pictum,' a fern with beautiful grey-green and silver foliage that grows a foot or so tall. It thrives in rich, moist, well-drained soil and develops more colorful foliage in partial, rather than full shade. Japanese painted fern is hardy to USDA garden zone 3 – most of northern Minnesota – which makes it one of the better choices for us. (Their 2000 winner, ‘Blue Butterfly' scabiosa, failed to overwinter in many Twin Cities gardens.)

2004 Ivy of the Year:

Hedera helix ‘Duck Foot,' named for its small, three to five-lobed leaves that resemble tiny duck feet, is an attractive plant with bright green foliage that darkens as it matures. Assuming it's as vigorous and free-branching as previous winners, ‘Duck Foot' ivy will make an excellent addition to your houseplant collection. ‘Lady Frances' ivy has been growing happily in one of my kitchen windows since it was sent to me four years ago, publicizing its choice as the original "Ivy of the Year."

2004 All-America Selections:

'Fresh Look Red' celosia

'Limbo Violet' petunia.

'Queenly Purple' hollyhock
All-America Selections appears to be the grand-daddy of plant promotion organizations, having named best new seed varieties annually since 1932. They choose plants only after testing them thoroughly in trial gardens throughout North America. Winners represent a distinct improvement over similar plants already available – for instance, bigger flowers, longer or earlier bloom, different colors, more compact growth habit, better disease resistance – and in the case of fruits and vegetables – better flavor.

Because the organization promotes seed grown plants that aren't expected to winter over, hardiness zones are not a factor we need worry about. Nor, typically, is the length of our growing season, since most AAS winners are offered both as seeds and as small potted plants in nurseries and garden centers.

One flower, a plume celosia called ‘Fresh Look Red' has been awarded an AAS 2004 gold medal for its consistently superior performance and pest-free growth with minimal maintenance. Both it and its sister plant, ‘Fresh Look Yellow' celosia, produce an abundance of flowering side shoots throughout the growing season. New plumes cover more mature ones, eliminating the need for dead-heading. As a bonus, you can cut plumes at any time to use in dried bouquets and floral arrangements.

Ever since ‘Purple Wave' petunia – an AAS winner in 1995 – we've seen a flood of "wave- style," spreading petunias. Not ‘Limbo Violet,' though. This grandiflora petunia forms neat, compact mounds about a foot across but only six or seven inches tall (remember the old limbo party trick?) With its many large, dark violet blossoms, this petunia will be perfect for small space gardens or for use as an edging plant.

Another AAS winner for smaller gardens, ‘Queeny Purple' hollyhock produces stems that top out at about twenty to thirty inches – a vast transformation from old-fashioned hollyhocks that grow six or seven feet tall! Though most hollyhocks are biennials, ‘Queeny Purple' blooms in one season when you start seeds under lights in February or early March. You'll also be able to enjoy their frilly purple "powder puff" blooms simply by picking up young plants at the garden center.

'Gypsy Deep Rose' gypsophila
'Amy' melon.
Photo credits:
All Amer. Selections
The fifth floral winner for 2004 is a charming annual babysbreath, ‘Gypsy Deep Rose' gypsophila which forms mounds of dainty dark pink double and semi-double rose-like blossoms. Like most flowering annuals, it performs best in full sunlight.

Three vine crops round out the AAS winners for 2004; ‘Sunshine' winter squash, ‘Sweet Beauty' watermelon, and another dessert melon called ‘Amy.' The watermelon ripens seventy to eighty days from sowing seed directly into a sunny garden, which means you can plant in early June and expect to harvest ripe melons some time in August. Its five to seven pound fruits are said to be exceptionally sweet and crisp.

‘Sunshine' winter squash takes longer, but unless there's an unusually early frost next fall, it should ripen well here, too. And it's gorgeous. Fruits are bright red-orange and look a bit like flattened pumpkins, each weighing about three to four pounds. The flesh is reported to be smooth, stringless, and best of all, very tasty.

‘Amy' is a "canary-type" dessert melon, that looks like a bright yellow honeydew with firm white flesh. Consider planting it only if you're willing to start the seeds indoors several weeks before it's warm enough to transplant into your garden. If you put them out once weather warms in early June, you should be harvesting melons the end of August or early September.

Multicolored Asian Lady Beetle Facts
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

Mass of beetles.
Photo credit: Gail Felton
Multicolored Asian lady beetles have been emerging in many homes and buildings throughout March. This emergence has corresponded with sunny, warm, weather. These insects have touched quite a hot button as people have become very frustrated over the appearance of dozens, hundreds, or even thousands of these small orange beetles.

Why are these lady beetles in our homes through the winter and the spring?

Contrary to popular belief, they do not breed and reproduce inside buildings. Every lady beetle you see this year entered your home (or building) last fall. While a lot of lady beetles may have entered into the living quarters of your home then, many of them clustered together in wall voids, attics, and similar places and went dormant for the winter. When warm temperatures reach them (even during winter), they can break their inactive phase. They may try to get outside but many of them end up trapped indoors. As springs arrives, they all eventually ‘wake up' and either get outside or remain indoors where they die.

Where did these lady beetles come from in the first place?

This is a big source of misinformation. Originally, these lady beetle were brought into California from Asia in 1916 and in 1964 -1965 for biological control of pecan aphids. They were also released for additional biological control programs from 1978 -1982 mostly in the eastern U.S. Lady beetles were not recovered from these releases and they did not appear to become established. In 1988, a population of multicolored Asian lady beetles was found in Louisiana from which they spread throughout the southern and eastern United States. Genetic studies have shown that the lady beetles throughout the country came from as single source but no one knows whether that is from one of the biocontrol program releases or an accidental introduction (e.g. from a freighter).

How did the lady beetles get into Minnesota?

Vacuum cleaner trap.
Photo credit: Ohio  State University
For people who believe that these are new insects in Minnesota, the are correct. They were first sighted in Minnesota in November, 1994. The first report of major infestations around buildings occurred in 1998, and by 2000 the insect was generally distributed throughout the state. Although it is tempting to blame a state agency, like the Minnesota Dept. of Agriculture or the University of Minnesota, the fact is multicolored Asian lady beetles were never introduced into Minnesota through releases. As they dispersed throughout the country, they inevitably reached Minnesota naturally from adjacent areas. Although some people will swear to the contrary, these lady beetles never have been or are currently part of any release program in Minnesota.

Do these lady beetles bite?

Yes, they can bite. About one third of them are capable of breaking human skin, resulting in a short-lived pain. Fortunately, multicolored Asian lady beetles are not know to transmit disease.

How do you get rid of lady beetles from your home?

Once they get into your home, your options are very limited. Insecticides have very little impact on overall lady beetle numbers. They won't affect lady beetles that have not emerged from wall voids or attics yet. Your only practical recourse is to vacuum them as often as you see them.

An economical method to vacuum lady beetles is to use a knee high nylon stocking that has been inserted into the extension hose and secured with a rubber band (see fig). As you vacuum, the lady beetles are captured in the stocking. As soon as the vacuum is turned off, remove the stocking so the captured beetles can't escape. As you remove it, the rubber band closes around the stocking, effectively "bagging" the lady beetles. You can then throw away the stocking or discard the contents of the stocking and reuse it.

What is the best control of lady beetles?

The best control is prevention. All of the lady beetles seen during the winter and spring enter buildings last fall. Keeping lady beetles out is a two pronged approach. First seal as many opening as possible that may allow lady beetles into a home. Concentrate along doors, windows, fascia boards, where utility lines enter buildings and similar places. Seal any openings 1/8 inch or larger. This should be done by the end of September before lady beetles start to enter homes. Physical exclusion should be supplemented with a residual insecticide application applied before insects begin to enter buildings, usually late September or early October. Apply the insecticide to doors, windows, and roof lines, paying particular attention to the south and west sides where the insects are most common. Common examples of effective insecticides available to the public include those containing:

* bifenthrin
* cyfluthrin
* cypermethrin
* deltamethrin
* permethrin.

Get the low down on this month's insect pests at Insects http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/EntWeb/Ent.htm


Re-imagining Elm Street 25 Years after the Epidemic
Janna Beckerman, Extension Plant Pathologist

Rows of American elms created a cathedral-like effect.
Photo credit:
Plant Disease Clinic.
Elm Street. Most cities have at least one such street, bearing testimony to what was once America's favorite tree: the American elm (Ulmus americana). Elm lined streets would form a living cathedral, one that provided shade to roads, homes and yards of children. These cathedrals were found all over the state of Minnesota. In 1912, the Minneapolis park board planted 2,104 trees, all American elm.

While American elms were being destroyed across the county, Minnesotans felt safe that winter would keep the beetles that vectored Dutch elm disease from ever becoming established. The American elm was still the street tree of choice. When Dutch elm disease was detected, in 1961, Minnesota had close to 140 million elm trees-a virtual monoculture--lining its streets, roads and boulevards. The stage was set for an epidemic not seen since the turn of the century-when chestnut blight all but eliminated the American chestnut from the U.S. landscape.

All disease starts slowly, and builds to a crescendo. The peak of the Dutch elm disease epidemic crested in 1977, with over 250,000 trees diagnosed as infected in the state of Minnesota. All killed by a tiny fungus, Ophiostoma ulmi, introduced to this country in the 1940s.

Monoculture and contiguous plantings allowed for the rapid spread of Dutch elm
disease. Photo credit:
Chad Behrendt
Setting the Stage
What could have been done to prevent the epidemic from occurring? This question isn't academic, as many of these same practices continue today with trees like Colorado blue spruce, Norway Maple or green ash. The monoculture of American elm is one of the major factors in this epidemic. Contiguous expanses of elms allowed the two species of elm bark beetles that are responsible for spreading the disease to pick up spores of the fungus in dying trees and easily carry them to healthy trees, where the fungus enters through feeding wounds created by the beetles. Elms within 50-60 ft of each other often develop fused root systems, called root grafts. Root grafts enable the fungus that causes DED to pass directly from an infected tree to an adjacent healthy tree. Rows of elms can wilt and die like falling dominos as a result of root-graft transmission.

One of the greatest myths surrounding DED is that it could not be averted. The fact that 75% of the American elm population remains in Fergus Falls attests to the fact that proactive management strategies can reduce losses due to DED. Prompt removal of infected elms, preventing the transport of infected logs, and removal of "volunteer" elms in wild areas have had a major impact on preventing DED from becoming established.

The best management strategy for control of DED was and continues to be sanitation. Sanitation includes diagnosis and eradication of ALL dead and dying elm trees.

Dutch elm disease is no longer epidemic, but pandemic (an established disease problem). Although a more virulent species of the fungus has been introduced, Ophiostoma novo-ulmi, the management strategies remain the same: Prevention of new disease, eradication of existing disease, and treatment of high value trees.

Tree-tment
Early treatment of DED can prevent tree death. Photo credit:
Dept. of Plant Pathology
Prevention of Dutch elm disease requires the recognitions that all pruning on elms should end by April, thereby minimizing the number of wounds that can serve as infection courts. After minimizing the risk of the disease, management consists of quickly identifying diseased elms, and removing any severely infected trees. This may prevent root graft transmission from diseased to healthy trees and also reduce the number of beetles that vector (or carry) the disease from infected to healthy trees. Dead trees can harbor tens of thousands of beetles that will be in search of a new host. These beetles will likely carry the fungus that causes the disease, and perpetuate the cycle.

Treating diseased elms involves more risk than performing preventive treatments. Chemotherapeutic treatment is available and should be considered when infection occurs to high-value trees. The cost of treating disease trees is almost always less than the cost of removal-in the short-term. Although many chemicals have won approval in the last few years, two chemicals have demonstrated their efficacy for disease control: Alamo and Arbortec. Both chemicals move throughout the infected tree to kill the fungus and allow the tree to wall off the infected branches. Neither fungicide moves into the root systems, meaning infected trees may not develop symptoms, but can still spread the disease by root grafts to nearby trees.

Disease resistant elm 'Lincoln' Photo credit:
Mike Zins
Disease Resistant Elms

Dutch elm disease isn't a problem limited to the United States. The disease gets its name from the country it was originally identified: the Netherlands. Programs to breed or select elms resistant to DED are presently happening in several countries including the USA, China, Europe and Canada. In the USA breeding and selection is going on at the Morton Arboretum, USDA National Arboretum and Wisconsin University. In Europe programs are currently going on in Italy and Slovakia. Unfortunately, the original and oldest breeding program in the Netherlands was recently disbanded.

Breeding for resistance to an introduced pathogen like Dutch elm disease has inherent problems. Because the plant and pathogen have not co-evolved, little inherent resistance will be readily identified. Early successes proved disappointing in that many of these early resistant cultivars succumbed to the more virulent "cousin" of the original pathogen, O. novo-ulmi, that was introduced to North America in 1970s and '80s.

Today, breeding programs have been incorporating lines of Asian elms into their breeding. These trees have resistance to the more virulent O. novo-ulmi, in addition to resistance to elm yellows (a disease associated mainly with North American elm species) and elm leaf beetle (Pyrrhalta luteola). Breeding programs often incorporate the more resistant U. parvifolia (Chinese Elm), U. japonica (Japanese elms), and U. pumila (Siberian Elm), with crosses back to American elm (U. americana) to provide the vase-like form that is so desirable in this tree. Breeding for DED resistance has identified that multiple genes interact to provide a cumulative resistance against the fungus. Although this makes for slower breeding program, it suggests that a durable resistance for the elms that are produced, and a future for elms in our landscape. For information regarding resistant elms, go to: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/p425dutchelm-resistant.html

Please check out the new diagnostics web pages at
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/diagnostics/


Early April Garden Tips
Beth Jarvis, Yard & Garden Line

Compiled from conversations with David Hanson, Urban Forestry; Bob Mugaas, Regional Extension Educator and Eric Watkins, Assistant Professor, Horticulture.
Virginia House, Richmond, Va. Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis
Fruit:
*Leave mulch over strawberries until new growth can be seen then leave mulch between plants.
*Finish up pruning apple trees now.

Lawn:
*Sharpen the blade of your lawn mower and make sure the mower is ready to mow.
*It's too early to fertilize lawns as the ground is generally still frozen and the grass is not growing.
*If you see snow mold on the lawn, it's ok to lightly rake the area with a leaf rake.Read more about it at:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/p320snowmolds.html
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/diagnostics/turfsnowmold.html
*Don't try raking the grass until the ground has thawed and dried.
*Trails in grass are probably voles. For guidance, see:http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/AAMG/wildlife/voles.html
*Dog spots are really fertilizer burn. Drench the areas with water to dilute the nitrogen. Gypsum does not help. For more info on the topic go to:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLN-Apr1502.html#dog
http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLN-Nov0199.html#dog

Trees/shrubs:
*For general information on pruning trees and shrubs see the Extension publication at:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG0628.html
*Do *not* prune oak trees now . Wait until July.
*Finish pruning mountain ash, hawthorns and shrub cotoneasters by mid April.
*Maples, birch, black walnut, butternut and boxelders will ooze sap if pruned now. Wait until summer to prune.

*Remove winter wrappings from newly planted trees.
*Remove stakes if trees have been staked one year or can stand unstaked.
*Examine any "critter protection" you've installed around trees. Make sure the tree is not growing into it and is still in place.
*Check with your city recycling coordinator for sources of free wood chips for mulch. You will want to refresh mulch around landscape trees and shrubs once the ground has thawed and warmed.
*When frost leaves the ground in your yard, water trees and shrubs if it's not rained.
*Annabelle and peegee hydrangeas and Anthony Waterer spireas, can be pruned to the first set of buds from the ground.
*Now's a good time to rejuvenate old, overgrown shrubs by removing 1/3 of the thickest stems. Cut them off right at the ground. Next spring, you can remove another 1/3 and finish the job in spring 2006.

Seed Starting:
*Now is a wonderful time to start seeds for many flower and vegetable garden plants. Many seed packets recommend starting seeds inside 6-8 weeks before moving the plants outside.

Wildlife:

*If you've been bothered by bunnies:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/AAMG/wildlife/rabbits.html

Editorial Notes

Tulips and daffodils, Keukenhof, Holland Photo credit:
Beth Jarvis
In April we will return to publishing around the first and the 15th of the month.

Next issue, Nancy Rose, a regional extension educator, will talk about buying trees and shrubs. In May, we'll hear from Mark Seeley as he discusses the proposed USDA zone map and other issues. David Hanson, Urban Forester, will bust some pruning myths
Once upon a time, holes in trees were treated by filling them with concrete. Technology has changed as we've learned that such rigid filling is damaging to the tree. So what's a tree owner to do with that big hole in a tree? Later this spring, Patrick Weicherding will discuss what, if anything, needs to be done with such tree wounds.

Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.

Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/.

Deb Brown answers gardening questions on Minnesota Public Radio's (MPR) "Midmorning" program on the first Thursday of every month at 10 a.m. The program is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations.

For plant and insect questions, visit http://www.extension.umn.edu/askmg. Thousands of questions have been answered, so try the search option in the black bar at the top left of the board for the fastest answer.

If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to: listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist or to unsubscribe, enter: unsub yglnewslist


Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator


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