Yard & Garden Line News Volume 4 Number 4                                                               April 1, 2002

Features this issue: Best Blooms: Top Performing Herbaceous Perennials and Annuals for Minnesota Gardens Cedartree Borers Zoysiagrass Plugs – a Poor Choice for Minnesota Lawns Ask A Master Gardener --On Line Garden Help How to Manage Plant Health Problems Over the Phone or by Internet. Editorial Notes

Best Blooms: Top Performing Herbaceous Perennials and Annuals for Minnesota Gardens
Nadilia Gomez, Graduate student
Department of Horticultural Science

Garden on St. Paul campus Field trials, Gr. Rapids Photo credit All photos: Neil Anderson except as noted. 'Wonderland Lavender' alyssum 'Purple Pidgeon' flowering kale 'Bonanza Bolero' marigold. 'Explosive Ignite' ornamental pepper 'Tida Wave Silver' petunias. Photo credit: AAS 'Pink Wave' petunia Sutera 'Cabana' Angelonia 'Angelmist Lavender' Celosia 'Prestige Scarlet' New Guinea impatiens 'Celebration Rose Star' 'Explosive Ember' pepper

Verbena 'Lanai Royal Purple' Salvia 'Victoria Blue' Cleome 'Sparkler Blush' Photo: AAS Geranium 'Black Magic Rose' Photo: AAS 'Chilly Chili' pepper Photo: AAS

Were you disappointed with the garden plants you bought last year? Are you considering new bedding plants, but are not sure how well they'll grow in our climate? If so, then read on. Here are the best performing annuals and herbaceous perennials for 2002.

Every year, the University of Minnesota performs scientific trials to evaluate the performance of annuals and herbaceous perennials. Seed and vegetatively propagated plants are planted in gardens in several locations in Minnesota. Annuals are tested in Grand Rapids, Morris and St. Paul, in USDA hardiness zones Z3, Z3/Z4, and Z4, respectively. Perennials are tested in private and public sites in Grand Marais (Z3), Lutsen (Z3), Minneapolis (Z4), Morris (Z3/4) and St. Paul (Z4). Plants are evaluated for size, uniformity, floral display, disease tolerance, and overall performance. Herbaceous perennials are also tested for winter survival. The best performing annual and herbaceous perennials for each site are selected, and results and photographs are posted on the web (http://www.florifacts.umn.edu).

In addition to being evaluated for performance, the plants in the trial gardens at St. Paul are planted in pleasing arrangements for display purposes. In Grand Rapids plants are planted in rows next to similar cultivars for ease of comparison. The locations vary in size and therefore different number of cultivars are planted at each site. In 2001, 247 cultivars were evaluated in St. Paul, and over 600 each in Morris and Grand Rapids.

(Ed. note: cultivar: "a contraction of the term cultivated variety, refers to a named group of plants within a cultivated species that is distinguishable by a character or group of characters and maintain its identity when propagated, either sexually or asexually"... such as ''Jonathan' apples, 'Tendercrop' green beans....from Horticultural Science, by J. Janick. )

The top performing herbaceous perennial for 2001 is Fragaria sp. 'Red Ruby'. This hardy ornamental strawberry produces colorful flowers and stems and small, yet flavorful, fruits. Other hardy perennials with outstanding performance are Hylotelephium spectabile 'Brilliant' (formerly Sedum), Monarda didyma 'Petite Delight' and Agastache rupestris 'Blue Fortune'.

In 2001, the top ten annuals at the St. Paul Campus were Alyssum 'Wonderland Lavender', Flowering Kale 'Purple Pigeon', Marigold 'Bonanza Bolero', Ornamental Pepper 'Explosive Ignite', Petunia 'Tidal Wave Silver', Petunia 'Pink Wave', Petunia 'Surfinia Lime', Petunia 'Surfinia Giant Purple', Sutera (Bacopa) 'Cabana', Vinca 'Heatwave Pink', and Vinca 'Heatwave White'.

Alyssum 'Wonderland Lavender' is a very fragrant, disease resistant, attractive, low-growing, floriferous ground cover. Because it is adaptable to various light conditions, it is ideal for softening the front of sunny borders and delineating shady paths. It is also terrific for mixed containers.

Flowering Kale 'Purple Pigeon' is a vigorous, unusually beautiful, long-lasting, cold-hardy ornamental that adds color to the garden in cold winter days. Its dark green rosette with purple center is charming. I have seen this plant thrive in cold weather. It looks amazing even when surrounded by mounds of snow.

Looking for something dazzling for your borders? Try Marigold 'Bonanza Bolero'. This eye-catching, floriferous plant will produce bright yellow flowers adding color to your garden throughout the entire growing season.

Ornamental Pepper 'Explosive Ignite' is a dwarf ornamental pepper. It has small dark green glossy leaves and produces white flowers. But flowers are not what you must be looking for in this stunning beauty. Ornamental Pepper 'Explosive Ignite' produces miniature peppers that attained fruit coloration early in the season. This means you can have radiant red and yellow miniature peppers on a tightly growing plant for a wonderfully dramatic appearance.

Four Petunias made it onto our list this year. Once you see these growing, it's easy to understand how they've become one of the five top-selling plants in 2001. Petunia 'Tidal Wave Silver' and 'Pink Wave' are both All American Selections for 2002. They are vigorous, incredibly floriferous and super trailing plants of effortless beauty. Petunia 'Surfinia Lime' and 'Surfinia Giant Purple', both vegetatively propagated, are ideal hanging baskets.

Sutera 'Cabana', sometimes called Bacopa, is a compact plant ideal for hanging baskets and mixed containers. It produces dozens of graceful, small, white flowers against small rounded green leaves. It is delicate, but not flimsy; this plant can tolerate hot summer days!

Vinca 'Heatwave Pink' and 'Heatwave White' are both floriferous bedding plants. Choose between white and pink to match your color scheme. The darker pink center in some flowers adds to the charm.

The top ten performers at Morris Research and Outreach Center were Angelonia 'Angelmist Lavender', Celosia 'Prestige Scarlet', Impatiens 'Fiesta Ole Stardust Pink', New Guinea Impatiens 'Celebration Rose Star', Ornamental Pepper 'Explosive Ember', Petunia 'Tidal Wave Cherry', Petunia 'Tidal Wave Hot Pink', Rudbeckia 'Indian Summer', Salvia 'Victoria Blue' and Verbena 'Lanai Royal Purple'.

Angelonia 'Angelmist Lavender' is a nice, compact, very floriferous bedding plant. It produces inflorescences with numerous lavender flowers.

Celosia 'Prestige Scarlet' is another unusual looking beauty. Its intense red bracts contrast with the dark green and purplish leaves. It is stunning and ideal for adding color to sunny borders.

Impatiens 'Fiesta Ole Stardust Pink' is a lovely, double impatiens of rosy appearance. It blooms profusely and carpets shady areas with attractive flowers of a refreshing, cool pink.

Don't adjust your monitors! The flowers on the New Guinea Impatiens 'Celebration Rose Star' are naturally duo-tone, with a darker pink petal to one side. It also has dark purple leaves with reddish mid-rib veins to add even more dimension to the shadier areas of your garden. Truly stunning colors!

Here is another ornamental pepper with red and purple colored fruit and dark purplish leaves, ornamental pepper 'Explosive Ember'

A single Petunia 'Tidal Wave Cherry' plant can fill in a full square yard of garden space. Petunia 'Tidal Wave Hot Pink' is similar but slightly taller in height. Grow both in filtered or direct sunlight, but be aware they may require frequent watering if planted in sunny spots.

Rudbeckia 'Indian Summer' produces bright yellow daisy-like flowers with a black center. This is a very vigorous, sturdy and wind-tolerant plant that has been a favorite for several years, and continues to perform very well. It is 2-2.5 feet tall, and sometimes suffers from powdery mildew especially late in the season.

Salvia 'Victoria Blue' has been among the top performers for more than half a decade. With its beautiful, intensely colored inflorescences it is surely to remain among the most favorite. It is also disease-resistant.

Verbena 'Lanai Royal Purple' still conserved its leaves and was producing blooms in September, and exhibits some degree of resistance to powdery mildew. This is an excellent ground cover with interestingly shaped leaves and vibrant flowers that add texture and color to the garden.

Asclepias 'Red Butterfly', Begonia 'Party Red Bronze Leaf', Cleome 'Sparkler Blush', Dianthus 'First Love', Geranium 'Black Magic Rose', Geranium 'Rocky Mountain Deep Salmon', Geranium 'Rocky Mountain Orange', Geranium 'Tango', Helianthus 'Teddy Bear' and Ornamental Pepper 'Chilly Chili' were the top ten annuals in Grand Rapids Research and Outreach Center.

Want to add some wildlife to your garden? Consider including Asclepias 'Red Butterfly' on your wish list. It is a compact, very floriferous, elegant and delicate plant that is not very red, but attracts many butterlies.

Cleome 'Sparkler Blush' is a dwarf plant of elegant appearance. It is approximately 2 feet tall and produces light pink slender flowers and light green narrow leaves.

Four of the best performing annuals for Grand Rapids were geraniums. These are popular bedding plants. Geranium 'Black Magic Rose' is my absolute favorite and an All American Selection for 2002. It has dark green velvety leaves with light green edges and pink flowers. 'Rocky Mountain Deep Salmon', 'Rocky Mountain Orange' and 'Tango' are also well suited for gardens in Grand Rapids. Remove the dead flower heads to promote flower production and enjoy color well into September.

Helianthus 'Teddy Bear' is a whimsical dwarf, double sunflower that will certainly add coziness to sunny spots of your garden.

Ornamental Pepper 'Chilly Chili' is also an All American Selection for 2002. It is a compact dwarf attractive plant for sunny spots. Its showy, red, orange and yellow fruits are slightly longer than fruits from other ornamental peppers, and unlike other ornamental peppers the fruits are non-pungent.

With so many options, selecting appropriate plants for the Minnesota garden isn't easy. Fortunately, it's no longer a matter of choosing among plants that you are not so sure will perform well in our climate. It's a choice among highly performing plants of various sizes, colors and textures. It's a decision about whether to arrange them in mixed containers, hanging baskets or borders. It's about deciding whether you want a formal or informal garden, whether you want bold or subtle colors. It's about creating and transforming your special outdoor space with the top performing annuals and herbaceous perennials for Minnesota gardens.

Cedartree Borers
Jeff Hahn, Assistant Extension Entomologist

Cedartree borer. Photo credit: Jeff Hahn

It is relatively common to find different types of nuisance beetles associated with firewood, lumber, and other wood in homes. The most common group of insects in these circumstances are longhorned beetles (family Cerambycidae). As the name suggests their antennae are relatively long, at least half the length of their body or longer. The larvae are wormlike and legless and commonly known as roundheaded borers. Both adults and larvae have powerful mandibles for chewing through wood.

An interesting and colorful beetle occasionally found by the public is the cedartree borer, Semanotus ligneus. Cedartree borers are about 1/2 inch long with a black head and antennae. Their wing covers are orangish with two black spots and black on the tips. They are common throughout the United States, attacking dying or recently dead conifers. They are particularly fond of arborvitae and junipers. Eggs are laid in the spring under bark. Once the larvae hatch they bore into sapwood and occasionally the heartwood. They have one generation a year.

When conifers are attacked by cedartree borers, they may be brought into homes inside wood, especially if wood is allowed to air dry (and not kiln dried). In a recent case, these borers were found emerging in large numbers from the logs of a log cabin. They create round holes and sawdust as the exit. Despite the cosmetic injury, these borers do not structurally damage wood. Once they emerge the do not live long. They do not reinfest the same wood they were inside or infest any other finished or unfinished wood.

Unfortunately, because the larvae are inside the wood, there isn't any practical method to prevent cedartree borers from emerging. Once they appear, the only recourse is to physically remove the insects as they are seen. Because they are short-lived and do not reproduce indoors, it is not necessary to spray the insects with an insecticide. Also, treating the wood with an insecticide will not prevent the beetles from emerging.

If it is practical and the problem is severe enough, you could replace the wood. In the case of firewood, do not bring it inside until you are ready to burn it. Otherwise in most cases, it is best to let the insects run their course. Eventually (in a year or two) they will all emerge and the problem will be finished.

Get the low down on this month's insect pests at Insects http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/EntWeb/Ent.htm
Zoysiagrass Plugs–a Poor Choice for Minnesota Lawns
Deborah Brown, Extension Horticulturist

Brown grass lasts well into spring. Photo credit: Deb Brown

Every year, newspapers and magazine ads extol the virtues of zoysiagrass plugs. Among other things, they tell us, we won't have to worry about watering or weed control once the zoysiagrass spreads and chokes out our nasty, troublesome bluegrass lawns. All this sounds too good to be true, and guess what? It is! Planting zoysiagrass in Minnesota is a waste of money, time, and effort. Don't even bother.

Considered a warm season grass, zoysia performs best in climates that are hot and dry rather than cool and relatively moist. There are lots of other warm season grasses: St. Augustinegrass, Bermudagrass, bahiagrass and centipedegrass, to name just a few. You'll see them in Atlanta and Miami. We don't grow any of them here, and with good reason.

While it's true that zoysia requires less moisture in hot, dry conditions, and stays nice and green even as Kentucky bluegrass goes into heat or drought-induced summer dormancy, it's still a poor choice for Minnesota. That's because zoysiagrass only does well in warm or hot weather, and we have plenty of cool weather on either side of our short hot summers.

Zoysiagrass doesn't turn green until temperatures remain consistently above freezing. Most years that's not until the latter part of May in the Twin Cities area. Then the zoysia turns brown again the minute freezing temperatures return in autumn. Meanwhile, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fine-leaved fescues green up early and are usually still green in November or December when it begins to snow.

One of zoysia's claims to fame is it's ability to spread aggressively, choking out other grasses and weeds. But not here. It spreads more slowly in this climate; so slowly that people often consider the zoysiagrass patches to be weeds, particularly in spring and fall when the surrounding lawn is green. Zoysia also sticks out in a typical bluegrass yard because of its stiff wiry stems and coarse broad blades. It's not very nice to walk on if you're barefoot.

Considering that zoysiagrass is such a poor choice for Minnesota, what are some good alternatives? Everyone would like to plant a grass with all the positive attributes claimed for zoysia. But unless you live in the south, you're out of luck. In Minnesota there is no grass that will deliver the "maintenance-free" appeal of zoysia. But given basic care and attention, there are grasses that will not only survive, but thrive in our climate.

Kentucky bluegrass:

Kentucky bluegrass is the most popular and widely planted turfgrass in the Upper Midwest. Spreading by means of underground runners called rhizomes, a healthy stand of bluegrass can form a dense, long-lived lawn.

Though some varieties such as 'Glade' and 'Nugget' have a little shade tolerance, Kentucky bluegrass is really best suited to sites that are sunny for most of the day. Bluegrass seeds may be mixed with fine-leaved fescue such as creeping red fescue or chewings fescue for lightly shaded areas. The shadier the location, the higher the percentage of fescue should be. Fine fescues also add a bit of drought tolerance to the lawn.

If Kentucky bluegrass lawns are not watered regularly in hot, dry weather, they wilt and go into summer dormancy to conserve moisture. These lawns usually bounce back as soon as rainfall or regular irrigation resumes, but when drought is severe, there may be areas that are permanently damaged and must be reseeded, particularly on south-facing slopes and other exposed areas.

Perennial ryegrass:

Perennial ryegrass adds the ability to withstand quite a bit of wear and tear to a lawn. It is commonly used in parks and athletic fields as well as home lawns. A dark green grass with fine (narrow) blades, perennial ryegrass will thrive in full sun to light shade.

Don't confuse perennial ryegrasses with cheap annual ryegrass (also called Italian ryegrass.) Both germinate rapidly, and can act as "nurse maids" to slower sprouting Kentucky bluegrass seeds, but there the similarity ends. Annual ryegrass lives only one year; it will not come back the following spring. Perennial rye, as its name implies, should return for many years.

Fine-leaved fescue:

Fine-leaved fescues provide more shade tolerance than either the rygrasses or Kentucky bluegrass varieties. They are usually mixed with one or the other, however, because a solid stand of fine fescue flops over and is difficult to mow.

Two types of fine-leaved fescues are available. Creeping red fescue spreads by means of short rhizomes. Chewings fescue is a bunch grass that doesn't spread as well, but has greater shade tolerance. Turf-type tall fescues have not proven reliable in this climate, and should be avoided, despite the fact you may find the seed offered locally.

You get what you pay for (as long as you don't fall for a scam):

As with many consumer products, when it comes to choosing grass seed, you get what you pay for. That is, as long as you are buying locally from a supplier who's both reputable and knowledgeable. Be skeptical any time you see claims that seem improbable.

Zoysiagrass is not the only inappropriate grass you'll see advertised as the season progresses. Several questionable companies have jumped on the lawnseed bandwagon, offering "miraculous" grass seed mixes through the mail, charging exorbitant prices. Be a savvy shopper; don't be taken in by their exaggerated claims!

Ask A Master Gardener--On Line Garden Help
Beth Jarvis, Yard & Garden Line

Minnesota gardeners have been asking for some place to e-mail garden questions. The Ask A Master Gardener (AAMG) bulletin board be a year old in early May. It was started with little publicity to give everyone involved a chance to get up to speed on the software and work out general procedures.

Recently, the web page was enhanced to spotlight some resources for fast answers, such as the AAMG archive of over 1400 answered questions. The AAMG archive is easily searchable by simply clicking on "search" on the black bar. There are also a handful of 'hot topics" which will change as needed.

The Y & GL News archives, Y & G Briefs and the Extension catalog are linked there too. For gardeners from out of state, there's even a link to the Ohio State Plant Facts web site. It's a great way to search Extension pubs by state or region.

If you can't find the info you need, there is an input screen so you can send a question to the AAMG panel. Your question and their response will be posted on the bulletin board in a day or two. Ask A MG is at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/askmgintro.html.

How to Manage Plant Health Problems Over the Phone or by Internet
Janna Beckerman, Extension Plant Pathologist

Pictures and description first sounded like a simple case of oak anthracnose. Photo:  J Beckerman

What do Master Gardeners, retail nursery workers and/or lawncare professional have in common? All of these people, at one time or another, will have to answer plant health problems over the phone. Anyone who has ever attempted to do this will attest to the difficulty of the task! I am often asked how to answer phone calls or emails that involve diagnosing plant health problems. Although I have yet to develop a flow chart or cheat sheet, I have developed a series of pointers that should help create dialog and enable you to develop a picture of what may be occurring.

1. Listen to the caller and allow them to give a full description of the problem to the best of their ability.
Be attentive. Recognize that some callers will be better able to describe the situation. Do not attempt to describe the situation to the caller (e.g., "Do you see dead old needles?"), or you will ultimately end up with a situation where the caller responds with a "yes/no." Try not to interrupt. Let them finish their description and then ask for clarification.

2. Keep notes on what the caller is saying in case a follow up is needed.
Never expect to answer a caller upon initial contact. Although certain years, disease problems or disorders will flare up (snow mold, aster yellows, winter injury) and you will be answering the same questions many times, most calls will require follow up, either by you or someone else. The quality of your notes may be the difference between solving a problem or having to make additional follow-up calls where the same questions are asked again!

3. Phrase your questions so they cannot be answered by a yes or no.
Most people phrase questions that produce a single word response, usually "yes" or "no." Try to ask for specifics and always try to get the caller to provide details. For example, instead of asking the caller "Did you follow the label instructions provided?" try "Describe to me what the label said and what you did." The first question produces a yes/no response (and possibly defensiveness!). The second phrasing opens up a description in the client's own words.

4. Use your Ws: When, What and Why.
By starting your questions with "The W's" you prevent a yes/no response. Also, explain to the caller why you are asking certain questions. This allows the caller to understand what is going on and recognize that you are not wasting their time.

5. Use simple English.
Before you were a Master Gardener, imagine how you would feel if someone asked you if your plants were etiolated or had developed hypertrophies? Keep it simple! Try to use yellowing instead of chlorosis, dead instead of necrosis, deformed instead of rosetting, etc.

6. Don't jump to conclusions.
Slowly form your opinion but keep it to yourself until you've eliminated other possibilities based on the information that caller has provided. Remember, most plant health problems are NOT disease but improper cultural conditions!

Photos showed symptoms inconsistent with oak anthracnose. Photo:  J. Beckerman

7. Don't describe a situation to the caller.
Callers may superimpose your description on their problem, leading you to misdiagnose the problem.

8. Saying "I don't know" is never the wrong answer.
But, don't stop there. Tell the client that you will do some research and get back to them. Then, get back to them, even if you have to say "I don't know again, but I've eliminated or suspect...."

9. Because you are not actually handling the samples, phrase your answers to reflect this.
Some common phrasings are "The symptoms you are describing are consistent with…" In the case of diseases like oak wilt or Dutch elm disease, encourage them to contact the Minnesota Department of Agriculture or the University of Minnesota Plant Disease Clinic to have a conclusive diagnosis made before taking action and before removing any tree.

10. Recognize that you may be telling someone something that they don't want to hear.
There is nothing worse than telling someone that you suspect their oak grove has oak wilt and not oak anthracnose, or that yes, cleaning out their water-softener tank at the base of their maple probably killed it. Whenever possible, tell them about other plants that they may wish to consider for replanting. Or you could always quote J.C. Ralston, the famed horticulturist who said ""You're not stretching yourself as a gardener if you're not killing plants."

11. Encourage homeowners to submit samples (explaining the fee process) where the situation warrants.
The Yard and Garden Clinic charges less than any Land Grant Institution to examine plant health problems. If multiple plants are affected, or high value plants (trees, shrubs or expensive ornamentals) explain how a more conclusive diagnosis can be obtained based upon examination as opposed to the clients description of the problem. I am still surprised and dismayed when a sample arrives to confirm a disease problem only to realize that the description and the symptoms (or signs) are not what I was led to believe!

Symptoms consistent with chemical injury. No herbicides used, but water softener tank had been cleaned out by tree. Photo:  J. Beckerman

12. Always double-check chemical control recommendations to make sure that the label is correctly followed.
Make sure the label is still current. Maker sure the label is safe for home use. Make sure the compound is something the homeowner has access to. How would you feel if you were given the name a chemical to control a problem but you couldn't buy it anywhere?

13. Use scientific data to substantiate your position.
Recognize that there is a great deal of misinformation that is available to gardeners. Whenever possibly, use scientific data and explain that what you are recommending has been demonstrated to work.

14. Use the Yard and Garden Clinic whenever you have some doubt of what could be the problem.
Misdiagnosis delays or prevents the proper treatment from occurring, and result in disease spread, pollution due to pesticide misapplication or plant death.

15. Refer Commercial Clients (i.e., Pesticide and lawn care companies) to the Yard and Garden Clinic or the Plant Disease Clinic.
Professional companies should not be enlisting your services. Refer them to the appropriate resource explaining that you are providing a service to the citizens of Minnesota and that they are requested to utilize appropriate University Resources.

16. Never disparage company/grower/nursery/writer.
This shouldn't require an explanation beyond the word "Lawsuit."

17. Do not tolerate abusive clients.
As volunteers, you aren't paid enough to deal with people like that-no one is. Although this is a rare occurrence, it does happen. When it does, refer them to your regional educator with an explanation that this person is your supervisor and may have more information. Then, warn us!

Test your diagnostic savvy monthly with Disease Watch at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/PlantPathWeb/Plpa.htm
Editorial Notes

Spring Beauty, Claytonia virginica Photo credit: Beth Jarvis

Spring Beauty is a wildflower that, according to my Peterson Field Guide, blooms Mar-May. The petals are white to pink and have darker veins. The leaves are long and narrow.

Speaking of spring beauty (what a transition!), just a reminder that Deb Brown will be answering gardener's questions on Fri. 4/5 on MPR's Midmorning show.

Next issue, Doug Foulk, who has co-authored many Extension publication on fruit, will wax eloquent on pear trees. Also upcoming, I'll introduce you to Ben Lockhart, the plant virus expert. His research includes viruses that infect ornamental plants. I'm hoping to have a story about the work of a medical entomologist who studies Lyme disease, in time for tick season.

Please feel free to cut and paste any of the articles for use in your own newsletters. All we ask is that you give our authors credit.

Back issues Yard & Garden Line News are on the Yard & Garden Line home page at www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/. Our home page has clickable links to most of the components of the Yard & Garden Line, such as Bell Museum of Natural History, INFO U and the Soil Testing Lab.

Deb Brown answers gardening questions on Minnesota Public Radio's (MPR) "Midmorning" program on the first Thursday of every month at 10 a.m. Katherine Lanpher hosts the program that is broadcast on KNOW 91.1 FM, and available state-wide on the MPR news radio stations.

If you have gardening questions, please call the Yard & Garden Line at (612) 624-4771.

If you would like to receive an e-mail reminder when the next issue of the Yard & Garden Line News is posted to the web, just send an e-mail to: listserv@lists.umn.edu (note: the second E in listserve is omitted), leave the subject line blank, then in the body of the message, type: sub yglnewslist or to unsubscribe, enter: unsub yglnewslist

Happy gardening!

Beth Jarvis
Yard & Garden Line Project Coordinator


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