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Many gardeners wish to have a lawn that extends across their property like a smooth green carpet. So what’s going on when small sections of the lawn surface look beige and spongy, more like a rubberized bath mat than wall-to-wall shag? And what’s a gardener to do about it?
Those odd sections of the lawn are actually being overrun by fungal growth. Under moist conditions, fungi can grow vigorously over the soil surface as well as around any existing grass plants. The fungi are not there to harm the turf, although occasionally small sections can be smothered by the mass of fungi. Rather, the fungi are there to feed on some source of organic matter, like the decaying root system of a tree that was cut down.
Fungi grow in long strands of cells that form mats called mycelia. Mycelia can look like cotton, cobwebs, or a denser, spongy material. It is typically white or light tan, but can also be other colors like pale pink or yellow. Mycelial mats are sensitive to moisture and often appear after rain, only to dry up and disappear as weather conditions dry. Mycelial mats on lawns typically appear in late summer to early fall after periods of rain.
Dense fungal mats can be raked up to allow more light and air to reach the grass below. Any remaining mycelia should dry up with time, although the fungi may reappear as long as a good source of organic matter remains buried below the lawn. Grass can be reseeded to repair any lawn sections smothered by the fungus.
Michelle Grabowski and Bob Mugaas
Figure 1. Mowing fallen leaves: left, mowed; right, unmowed. Bob Mugaas
As leaves begin to fall, you can just mow them into the lawn. In other words, mowing can make short work of a light covering of leaves (Figure 1). If you mow on a regular basis, chances are you won't exceed the amount of leaves you can mow into the lawn. A light covering of leaves generally means that you can still see a few grass blades poking through the layer of fallen leaves (Figure 2). A leaf layer of several inches or more on the lawn surface will likely be too much to mow properly. A light raking to remove the bulk of the leaves followed by mowing is a better way to deal with larger amounts of leaves.
When you're done mowing, your lawn should look as if it's been raked (Figure 3). Where you can see clumps of shredded leaves on top of the grass, rake these up and use as mulch somewhere else in the landscape or add them to the compost pile. The incorporation of some green grass with the dried leaves will actually help them decompose faster. Remember that clumps of leaves covering the grass block sunlight to the grass plants and can result in some dieback. Dry leaves shred best, but it’s a good idea to wear a dust mask and eye protection as chopping them up with a mower can be a very dusty job.
Some trees drop all their leaves in a short period of time. Under these conditions you may need to put the bagger on the mower and collect the leaves at least once. Of course you can always rake the leaves up rather than collecting them with a mower.
Late season nitrogen fertilizer is a good idea for lawns. Wait until mid-October if you live in the northern part of the state, or Halloween to early November if you live in the southern part before making that application. Apply nitrogen at a rate of one pound per 1,000 square feet. A likely fertilizer ratio will be 4-0-3 (sold, for example, as 16-0-12, 20-0-15 or 24-0-18). Never apply fertilizer to frozen ground.
Late season fertilizer applications should not contribute to excessive snow mold problems. Lush, succulent, actively growing grass plants with higher nitrogen contents are those more likely to encounter snow mold problems. Late season nitrogen applications are not intended to encourage growth of the grass plant this fall. Rather, they provide available nitrogen to the plants so that it can be taken up and stored for use next spring.
It's a bit of a gamble, but if bare patches are taunting you, try dormant grass seeding in late October to early November. Work the seed into the soil, water it well and hope the soil remains cold and germination does not begin until next spring. Good soil-to-seed contact is imperative. Just scattering seeds on bare ground won't work. Don’t wait too long since you won’t be able to do this successfully once the ground is frozen.
Next spring, on those areas that were dormant seeded, delay using any herbicides (weed killers) until the lawn has been mowed three or four times. This is especially true for pre-emergence herbicides that control crabgrass.
As long as the daytime temperatures remain in the 55 to 60° F range, there's still time to apply broadleaf weed control products. When daytime temperatures drop below 55° consistently, it's too late. Common broadleaf weeds such as dandelion, white clover, creeping Charlie and plantain are much more easily controlled in the fall than in the spring. While the actual plants may not disappear this fall, in all likelihood they will be dead and no longer visible by next spring. One or two applications between the end of September and mid-October are usually all that is needed for good control.
Bluegrass sod can be laid thru mid to late October depending on weather conditions. Even though it may be cooler it is still important to water any newly laid sod. Exposed sites, especially, should be watered frequently to keep the sod from drying out and to promote rooting. The later you wait, the greater the risk of the sod drying out before it roots into the soil. When laying sod late in the season, be sure to ask your sod vendor or landscape contractor about any guarantees regarding newly laid sod and survival over the winter.
NR: Well, let’s start with the big question: What is an accessible garden?
JL: An accessible garden is a garden that eliminates physical and attitudinal barriers to gardening. An accessible garden finds ways to enable folks of all ages and ability levels to participate in the wonderful process of growing and enjoying plants. I think almost everyone who gardens shares the belief that every person who wants to should be able to enjoy the benefits of gardening, and that’s what an accessible garden seeks to do.
NR: Does it take a lot of work to create an accessible garden?
Eric uses a tool with an extended handle to reach weeds in this flower bed. Nancy Rose
JL: No, not really. There are a number of fairly simple adaptations that can go a long way toward making a garden accessible. The first step would be to think about the garden area as whole: Is the entrance to the garden easy to get to and maneuver through? Are the pathways wide enough and made out of an appropriate material to handle foot traffic, wheelchairs, or scooters? The grade of those paths is important, too; a grade of not more than 8 percent will be the most accessible to people with varying abilities and for equipment, too.
NR: How about the planting areas themselves? Now that my knees are, uh, over 30, I’m finding it more difficult to do all that ground-level work in my garden.
JL: You need some raised beds! Bringing the planting beds up to a comfortable working level is a big part of making a garden accessible. Raised beds can be constructed using a number of different materials, but wood is the most common. These beds are typically 24 to 30 inches high, though 18 inches may be better for young children. Don’t make the beds too wide - you need to be able to comfortably reach to the middle. Five feet is the maximum width if the bed is accessible from both sides, half that if it’s accessible from just one side. An option for better wheelchair accessibility is to build planting tables, where you actually have an 8 to 10 inch deep planting container supported on about 30 inch tall legs so a person in a wheelchair can comfortably pull right up to the planting area.
NR: Now let’s talk tools. It seems like there must be some improvements on some of our standard garden tools, some of which aren’t friendly to gardeners who are dealing with problems as basic as arthritis in the hands.
JL: Adaptive tools are another big part of accessible gardening. Something as simple as foam padding on tool handles can help those with limited ability to grip, including the arthritis sufferers you mentioned. Tools with arm braces can help because they make the whole arm work instead of just the hand or wrist. Extended handles and ergonomically angled tool heads are other helpful features in many adaptive tools. And don’t forget that really great invention, the wheel. Wheeled scooter-type seats allow the gardener to sit comfortably and roll to the next spot instead of having to stand up each time. Wheeled tool caddies are also great for moving lots of tools around with less effort.
NR: You work with many different groups in your therapeutic horticulture work. On a recent visit to the arboretum Eric, Kirsten, and Theresa from Choice, Inc. kindly agreed to demonstrate the use of some of these adaptive tools so I could get photos. What kind of projects do you and the gang usually work on?
JL: Gosh, this group visits me once a week, all year long. During our time together we do everything from gardening in the Sensory Garden to taking nature walks to bug detection in the greenhouse to seed starting for summer gardens. The Choice, Inc. program is designed to give the participants lots of choices (hence the name). Sometimes they’re more in a recreational mood and other times they’re in a more vocational/habilitation mood – all sorts of choices are given to them in order to empower their self determination and esteem.
Special thanks to Eric, Kirsten, and Theresa for demonstrating adaptive tools at the Learning Center garden at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum.
We typically do not find ticks in our homes, unless we or our dogs inadvertently carry one or two in with us. However, brown dog ticks (Rhipicephalus sanguineus) are an exception to this because they are quite content to live indoors. In fact they can reproduce inside buildings and heated kennels which is rare for ticks here. (The bat tick, a type of soft tick, can also reproduce indoors.) Brown dog ticks do not survive winters outdoors in Minnesota. They feed primarily on dogs and have the ability to produce large numbers of offspring. It is not uncommon to find this tick crawling up walls, curtains, furniture, and other nearby sites.
An unfed adult female is about 1/8 to 3/16 inch long, teardrop-shaped, reddish brown, and lacks any distinguishing markings. A brown dog tick is a little smaller than an American dog tick (commonly known as a wood tick) and about the same size as a blacklegged tick (formerly known as deer tick). In fact, people can easily mistake a brown dog tick for a blacklegged tick. Fortunately, brown dog ticks infrequently bite people and aren't known to transmit disease to people in Minnesota, unlike blacklegged ticks.
Just recently, a family found nearly 100 ticks in their home, particularly on their dog. These ticks were tiny, measuring about 1/16 inch long. A family member was bitten and they were certain that it was a blacklegged tick based on its size. They were very concerned that she may have contracted Lyme disease as a result. However, it is difficult to identify ticks, especially immature ones, from just size. It is important to examine a tick under magnification to view the mouthparts, first coxal spurs, spiracles, and the presence or absence of an anal groove to make a proper identification. Fortunately for this family, the ticks turned out to be brown dog ticks so it was not a medical concern, just a nuisance.
If you find you have a brown dog tick problem in your home, there are several control tactics to consider to eliminate them. First, because the dog is the primary host, it should be treated. There are a variety of different insecticides that are effective, including products containing fipronil (spot on and sprays), permethrin (sprays and shampoos), and deltamethrin (shampoos). Follow label directions carefully and check with your veterinarian if you have questions about which product is most appropriate for your dog.
You should comb the dog regularly and remove and destroy all ticks. If the ticks still persist, you may need to treat the home or kennel with an insecticide, paying special attention to cracks and spaces and other areas where the ticks are hiding. Most products labeled for indoor use, such as permethrin, bifenthrin, and deltamethrin, should be effective.
Figure 1. Zinnia bed with several plants killed by white mold. Michelle Grabowski
Mid to late summer this year, in various gardens across Minnesota, flowering annuals that had been thriving and blooming earlier in the season suddenly wilted and died back completely (Figure 1). A wide range of annuals were affected including zinnia, marigold, sneezeweed (Helenium), nicotiana and petunia. In some of the annuals with multiple branches, one branch might wilt and die while the others remained healthy. Upon closer examination of these failing plants, gardeners noticed that the infected stems were tan to off-white colored in a section close to the base of the plant. The stem above the discolored area would be a normal green color, and the roots below would be a healthy white or beige. Fluffy white cotton-like fungal growth was often seen at the discolored area of the stem especially if there was high humidity at the time.
What was happening? These plants were falling victim to white mold, a plant disease caused by the fungus Sclerotinia sclerotiorum. Including annual flowers, this disease affects over 360 species of plants, most of which are herbaceous (non-woody stems) and have broad leaves. Other susceptible plants include common garden vegetables like tomato, squash, bean and carrot, perennials like chrysanthemum, columbine, delphinium, and peony, and many common garden weeds.
Figure 3. Zinnia stem showing discoloration from the infection, hard black sclerotia, and white balls of mycelia preparing to become sclerotia. Michelle Grabowski
Although white mold appears to kill plants quickly, it typically infects plants in early spring or summer and then develops unnoticed for most of the growing season. Whenever temperatures are cool (around 51 to 68°F) and the soil is wet, the white mold fungus will release spores that can travel on the wind for up to a mile or more. Spores that land on wounded or aging plant tissue, like old petals or leaves, will germinate and start an infection. At first the infection will look like a water soaked spot on the stem. It will then turn tan or off-white in color and continue to grow. Through this part of the infection, the plant will continue to look healthy from above. Eventually however the fungus will rot through the entire stem. When this happens the leaves suddenly wilt and die, much to the unsuspecting gardener’s surprise.
The best way to recognize white mold is to look for a tan to off-white section at the base of the plant that has cottony white fungal growth on it when humidity is high (Figure 2). In older infections, hard black sclerotia (fungal resting structures), about the size and color of a broken-off pencil tip can be seen either clinging to the outside of the infected stem, or embedded inside the dead stem. Small white balls of fluff may be seen in the same area. These are sclerotia just beginning to form (Figure 3).
Sclerotia are the form in which the white mold fungus survives Minnesota’s harsh winter. New infections start the following season from spores produced by these sclerotia. It is therefore very important to remove all plants infected with white mold, taking care not to knock off any sclerotia in the process. These plants should not be composted, but destroyed through burning or placing them in the trash. It is very difficult to get rid of all of the sclerotia once the disease has started and cultural control practices should be used in the spring to reduce the number of infections the following year.
Although there is no one control strategy available to gardeners to completely rid the garden of white mold, using several cultural control practices can help reduce the number of plants affected. The white mold fungus needs moisture on the plant tissue to start an infection, so any practice that reduces humidity and helps plants dry off quickly will help. Mulch the garden with organic mulch like woodchips or bark. Use drip irrigation or soaker hose instead of overhead watering systems. Space plants apart from one another so air moves between them and dries them quickly. Chose plants with an upright and open form because they will dry more quickly than plants that lie along the ground or grow in dense clumps.
Mammoth™ Yellow Quill. David Zlesak
First year plants of Mammoth™ mums Red Daisy, Lavender Daisy, Dark Pink Daisy and Coral Daisy (first row) and Yellow Quill (behind). David Zlesak
The stir continues to grow over the magnificent winter hardy, large, vigorous, and easy care chyrsanthemums released in recent years by the University of Minnesota. First known as Maxi-Mums™, then My Favorite™ mums, and now Mammoth™ mums, this fantastic collection of Northern-adapted mums includes an increasing number of cultivars and color options. With Ball Chrysanthemum (part of the Ball Horticultural Company) reintroducing these mums under the Mammoth™ mum series, they should be more widely availability than ever.
History of the Mammoth™ mums
The story of the development of the Mammoth™ mums began with two passionate gardeners, Dr. Peter Ascher and Betty Lou Patsche. Professor Ascher, now retired, taught the Plant Propagation class at the University of Minnesota and directed the university’s chrysanthemum breeding program. Betty was Peter’s Plant Propagation teaching assistant and he gave her a gift of a plant of Chrysanthemum weyrichii. This low growing, spreading mum species made a great addition to Betty’s rock garden. Seeds formed on C. weyrichii from crosses with Betty’s garden mums growing nearby. The next spring very vigorous seedlings were found around the base of Betty’s C. weyrichii. Betty shared these seedlings with Peter. These plants formed the foundation of the genetics that led to the development of the Mammoth™ mums.
What set these hybrid seedlings and the Mammoth™ mums apart from common garden mums is their amazing vigor and cold hardiness. They increase in size over several growing seasons, resulting in large full plants which some have likened to small shrubs. During their first growing season, however, these mums are comparable in size to the typical potted garden mums. They grow so strongly because they share C. weyrichii’s trait of developing a substantial crown with many underground rhizomes (underground shoots that may emerge with a few leaves in the fall near the main plant). The rhizomes serve the plant as a location to store energy over winter, which the plant can then use to get off to a vigorous start come spring. Having many rhizomes also allows for many new stems to generate a full, dense plant. Some of the most vigorous Mammoth™ mum type breeding lines grew to 3’ tall and 5’ or more in width by the end of their second season!
Early challenges- Rosetting and lodging
Chrysanthemum weyrichii is similar to another mum species that may be more familiar to gardeners, C. rubellum. The cultivars ‘Clara Curtis’ (mauve-pink flowers) and ‘Mary Stoker’ (soft apricot yellow flowers) are selections of C. rubellum. Unlike typically grown mum cultivars where daylength is the key trigger for flowering (short days / long nights are necessary for flowering), these mums also require a cold period (vernalization) typically experienced over winter in order to flower reliably. Shoots that do not perceive an adequate cold treatment remain as a low growing rosette or crown. First year seedlings and sometimes newly propagated cuttings of such mum species often rosette and do not flower or flower sporadically. This feature complicates the production of C. weyrichii and C. rubellum and has resulted in their limited commercial availability. Throughout the breeding process of the Mammoth™ mums, seedlings that flowered more reliably under short day conditions and did not inherit the vernalization requirement of C. weyrichii were identified and preferentially selected.
Lodging, the falling or bending of stems, was the second most problematic feature of some of the early breeding lines. With the large plant size of many of these hybrids, the weight of the flowering stems caused the stems to lodge, especially in open, windy fields or from heavy rain. Care was given to select parents with relatively strong stems and to select seedlings that resisted lodging.
The first of the Mammoth™ mum type releases was ‘Betty Lou’ introduced in 1996. It was originally marketed under the series name Maxi-MumsTM. This double bronze mum was named in Betty’s honor and is a direct offspring from one of the original seedlings found by Betty under her C. weyrichii. This mum is still available through specialty mail order chrysanthemum suppliers.
Big break with the My Favorite™ series
Dr. Ascher retired and when Dr. Anderson was hired in 1999 as the Floriculture Breeder there were additional cultivars of mums with the Mammoth™ mum habit ready for release. Dr. Anderson earned his doctorate studying chrysanthemums at the University of Minnesota and was a part of the development of the Mammoth™ mum type as a graduate student and post doc researcher. The opportunity opened to partner in the release of these mums with Anthony Tesselaar, the international marketer of the Flower Carpet® roses and other plants. The partnership materialized and the mums were released under the series name My Favorite™. The goal of Anthony Tesselaar was to develop a whole line of perennials under the My Favorite™ name.
Mammoth™ Twilight Pink Daisy. David Zlesak
The My Favorite™ mum cultivars were released in 2001/2002 and included Autumn Red (2001), Coral (2002), Twilight Pink (2002), Yellow Quill (2002), and White (2002). Like the Flower Carpet® roses, these mums had their own specially designed and colored pots (teal) for easy customer recognition. They also had a unique marketing logo which included a cartoon mascot - Ned the Gnome. In order to have the unique pots and a very uniform product line, the Tesselaar approach is to have a limited number of key growers supplying specific regions. These growers grow the plant material up until it is ready for sale. Retailers then purchase the ready to sell product for their customers. Although a unique pot and a uniform finished product ready for resale worked well for roses, it was challenging to adapt to the chrysanthemum market. The profit margin on mums is generally slim. Independent garden centers typically use affordable, colorful mums to draw customers back to the store in the fall and to keep production costs down they tend to grow them themselves as inexpensively as possible. Purchasing flowering plants for resale of these great mums growing in relatively large teal pots made the economics challenging, especially during years of increased fuel and transportation costs. Those retailers that chose to sell the My Favorite™ mums often had to set the price significantly higher than their other mums, deterring many customers.
The birth of the Mammoth™ mum series and Ball partnership
Due to the constraints on availability and sales, a partnership for the marketing and propagation of the Mammoth™ mums was made with Ball Chrysanthemum (part of the Ball Horticultural Company). The Ball Horticulture Company is well established and contains Pan American Seed Company which is responsible for the Wave® petunias. Greater availability of Mammoth™ mums to consumers is expected because growers will be able to freely purchase cuttings and produce these mums themselves. The constraints of expensive colored pots and limited access of young, rooted cuttings to growers have been lifted.
The five original cultivars of the My Favorite™ mums have been transferred to the Mammoth™ mum series plus a few additional cultivars. Limited release of the Mammoth™ mums began in fall 2006. The series is expected to be more and more widely available as propagation stock increases and Ball Horticulture Company customers learn about Ball Chrysanthemum and Mammoth™ mums.
How to grow and enjoy your Mammoth™ mums
Plant in an appropriate location. A good location will be one with:
In the years ahead Mammoth™ mums will also be available for sale as small blooming plants in garden centers in the spring. Mums are typically forced in smaller pots in the spring to save space for growers packed with plant materials of all types for the spring bedding plant market. The short daylength necessary to trigger flowering for these and other mums was provided in the greenhouse by shading or, if started early enough, by the naturally short days of early spring. Plant spring-flowering Mammoth™ mums in their final location after the danger of a hard frost is past. Since they have been forced ahead of season in a warm greenhouse they are not acclimated to endure freezing temperatures well. After flowering, spent flowers can be removed. Throughout the summer the plants will develop a strong root system and rhizomes and bloom very strongly again in the fall.
Mammoth™ mums will be most widely available in the fall. Special care should be given to fall planted mums in general in order to aid their survival. Plant them in the ground as soon as possible to allow the root system and rhizomes to have an opportunity to take hold in their new location before the ground freezes. Adding mulch and leaving spent flowers and stems in place to help collect blowing leaves and snow will help provide the crown with added insulation, especially the first season. In subsequent years the same can be done, but should not be as critical to ensure survival.
Mammoth™ mums cultivars as of fall 2007
Mammoth™ White Daisy. David Zlesak
Coral Daisy- One of the most winter hardy, vigorous, well-branched, and most loved selections. The coral-bronze color of the semi-double flowers is especially attractive.
Dark Bronze Daisy- New selection with semi-double dark bronze to light orange-red flowers.
Dark Pink Daisy- New selection with slightly larger flowers than other selections in a rich pink color with lighter pink highlights.
Lavender Daisy- New semi-double rich lavender selection with an especially nice branching habit similar to Coral Daisy and Red Daisy.
Red Daisy- Semi-double red flowers on an especially well-branched and strong growing plant. Red Daisy tends to bloom a little later than the other selections.
Twilight Pink- Large single mauve-pink flowers have an attractive pink highlight over the central disc florets giving the flowers a unique “eye”.
White Daisy- One of the most winter hardy selections with large semi-double to double pure white blooms.
Yellow Quill- The single quill to spoon shape of the ray florets give this mum and especially unique appearance reminiscent of small fireworks.
Future of Mammoth™ mums
In the years ahead more cultivars will be included to extend their color range and to include more double-flowered selections and selections with unique flower forms like Yellow Quill. In addition, more compact growing Mammoth™ mums that otherwise share the same hardiness and reliability will be added to the collection to accommodate gardeners with confined growing spaces.
Finish planting daffodil (Narcissus) bulbs as soon as possible. Continue to plant other bulbs including crocus, squill, grape hyacinth, Allium, Fritillary, hyacinth, and tulips. Water well after planting bulbs.
It’s getting late for planting herbaceous perennials and woody plants in northern Minnesota but in the rest of the state the first part of October is still a good time for planting.
Some trees and shrubs seem to establish better if they’re planted in the spring, so hold off on planting magnolia, American hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana), aspen and poplars (Populus spp.), most oaks, and hawthorns. Plums, cherries, pears, birch, willows, and dogwoods (Cornus spp.) may also do better with spring planting.
Short daylength and cooler temperatures mean there won’t be a lot more ripening for warm-season vegetables, so harvest remaining tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants soon, then compost (if undiseased) or throw out the plants.
Basil doesn’t tolerate a bit of frost so make that last batch of pesto and freeze it for winter use.
In containers, replace summer annuals with potted mums, pansies, and ornamental kale for another month or more of color.
Harvest winter squash and pumpkins as they ripen and vines begin to brown (but before a hard frost). Cure the fruits in a warm location for a few weeks - this helps toughen the skin which leads to better storage life. After curing, store squash for winter use in a cool, dry location.
Apples are ripening now. Taste apples to check ripeness - ripe fruits should have a good sugar to acid balance and lack a starchy taste.
Continue to water lawns, trees, shrubs, and other perennial plants as needed until the ground freezes. Remember to disconnect the hose if night temperatures will be below freezing or you risk a burst faucet pipe!
Now is the time to work on sealing up all cracks around windows, doors, and elsewhere on your house to keep out pesky boxelder bugs and multicolored Asian lady beetles. If necessary, treat the exterior with residual insecticide. See: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/housingandclothing/M1176.html
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG0998.html
Protect non-hardy rose bushes later in October. For how-to details, see: http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/YGLNews/YGLN-Sept1502.html#roses
Name That Apple
Here’s your chance at fame and fortune, or at least a free basket of apples from the U of M apple breeding program. Researchers are looking for a name for the apple that’s currently known by it’s breeding accession number, MN 447. You can suggest a name (through October 31st) - the winner will receive a basket of these apples.
This apple is of unknown parentage but it is hardy into Zone 3. The apple itself is on the small side. It’s a dark maroon color over a yellow-gold background. The cream to light yellow colored flesh is crisp and juicy. It’s the flavor that’s truly unique, though. This apple is sweet and highly aromatic, and some tasters have compared the flavor to sugar cane, molasses, or Hawaiin Punch!
Find out whether you like MN 477 at tasting events at the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Oswald Visitor Center from 2:00 to 3:30 p.m. on both October 6th and 7th.
To suggest a name go to www.arboretum.umn.edu and click on What’s New.
Photo by Dave Hansen
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Happy gardening!Nancy Rose
Editor
Regional Extension Educator - Horticulture
The information provided in this publication is for educational purposes only. References to commercial products or trade names do not imply endorsement by the University of Minnesota Extension nor is criticism or bias implied of those products not mentioned.
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