FAQ

1. With limited hay supply in my area, is it safe to feed baleage to my horses?
2. What is the relationship between grazing on pasture and laminitis?
3. If I think my horse is colicking, should I immediately call the vet?
4. Should I be concerned about the weed hoary alyssum?
5. Is it safe to fog my barn for flies if my hay is stored inside the barn?
6. Can I treat my manure pile with anything to help reduce the amount of flies at my barn?
7. How warm should my water be during the winter to help ensure my horses drink enough?
8. I've recently heard that a Coggins test is not necessary. I'd also like some current facts on Equine Infection Anemia (EIA) and its risk to my horses.
9. What options do I have if my broodmare is unable to provide colostrum for her newborn foal?
10. My vet suggested that we vaccinate the show horses and the colts for equine Herpes virus infections, as he is concerned about the neurological form of the disease. I thought only broodmares needed to be vaccinated for this.
11. What is certified hay and where must it be used?
12. My horse is at a boarding barn. Her paddock is quite large and grassy, but extremely over-grazed. Someone told me I could get nitrogen fertilizer to put down and that would help. Would it, and is it safe for my mare to then be out there grazing every day? I know rotational grazing is ideal, but not possible.
13. I have a client that is wondering how they can protect their horses from ticks. He's wondering if he can pour on, or inject, Ivomec.
14. I know it's a good idea to get a soil test, but how do I collect a sample and where do I send it?
15. The soils in my horse pasture have a very high level of clay. Areas that my horses use a lot get very compacted. If I want to reseed a compacted area what steps would you recommend I take so that the grass will grow?
16. I have areas of my pasture that remain quite wet for an extended period of time after it rains. Would reed canary grass work well in these types of areas, and if so where can this grass seed be found? I have not seen it sold in your basic nursery type stores that sell grass seed.
17. What care (shelter and nutrition) do I need to provide for my horse during the winter?
18. Where can I get hydrated lime?
19. Does hay give horses colic?
20. How large should my dry lot (sacrifice paddocks) be? Also, how large of a shelter should I build for my horses?
21. I'm having trouble with ice in my horse paddocks. How can I remove the ice?
22. When should I begin grazing my horse?
23. When I trail ride with my quarterhorse, which is mainly walking, but some light trotting up hills, he breaks out in severe sweats with tremors or leg shakes. What should I do?
24. How can I protect my horse from ticks?
25. My mare acts up when she is in heat. We aren't planning on breeding her so we are considering having her spayed. What are our options?
26. Can brewers yeast help the digestive system, hoof health, and improve fiber digestion?
27. How can nutrition affect hoof health?
28. Where can I get my hay tested for nutritional value and for unwanted matter?

With limited hay supply in my area, is it safe to feed baleage to my horses?
You can feed baleage to horses, however, there are some precautions you need to take. Horses are very susceptible to botulism, which is linked to baleage and is often fatal. Horse owners who are feeding baleage should consider vaccinating their horses with at least two initial immunizations against this disease and then continue with yearly boosters. However, the vaccine is rather crude and causes considerable vaccination reactions in some horses so it is not a decision to make lightly. As baleage feeding is uncommon, most veterinarians are unlikely to have the vaccine in stock so they will most likely need time to order it. If hay is short, consider feeding alfalfa cubes, beet pulp or increasing the horses grain. However, remember that horses need their diet to consist of at least 2/3 forages in some form or another.
- Julie Wilson, DVM, U of M

What is the relationship between grazing on pasture and laminitis?
One of the factors that can predispose horses to laminitis is the rapid intake of nonstructural carbohydrates (sugars and starches). Intake of starches or fructans (a sugar) stored in pasture can cause laminitis. Fructans are the primary reserve carbohydrate stored in cool season grasses like fescue and bluegrass. Grazing management is important for horses predisposed to laminitis (often ponies and overweight horses). This includes limiting grazing during the times of day when fructans are at their highest level in grasses. Generally, horses predisposed to laminitis should graze in the evening and over night and be inside or in dry lots during daylight hours. Grazing should also be limited during times of environmental stress on plants such as drought or cool temperatures. Rotational grazing is recommended where regrowth is limited to 4 to 6". It is important not to over graze pastures as the lowest stems often contain the highest amount of sugar. Avoid grazing on pastures with lots of seed heads as they also contain high amounts of sugar.
- Stephanie Valberg, DVM and Paul Peterson, PhD, U of M

If I think my horse is colicking, should I immediately call the vet?
When a horse is in pain from colic, he will often look at his side and bite or kick at his flank or belly. More severe cases will lie down and/or roll, and in some cases, manure production will be decreased or absent. Often horses will improve when walked. If you know the colic is of recent onset and appears mild, you can try walking the horse and see if he improves without veterinary assistance. If it the duration of colic is unknown, or if the colic is more severe and unresponsive to walking, a veterinarian should examine the horse as soon as possible. Owners can learn to take pulses and to check the horse's gums for signs of dehydration or toxicity. If the horse's heart rate is over 45-50 beats per minute or if the gums are tacky, have a prolonged refill time or are off color, the horse may be dehydrated or toxic and needs immediate attention.
- Erin Malone, DVM, U of M

Should I be concerned about the weed hoary alyssum?
Hoary alyssum is mostly a concern in hay, as horses will not choose to eat it in pastures if adequate forage exists. When ingested, horses experience depression and a "stocking up," or swelling of the lower legs, 12 to 24 hours following ingestion. A fever and occasionally short term diarrhea have also been observed. These clinical signs normally subside 2 to 4 days following removal of the hoary alyssum source. In more severe cases, an apparent founder with a stiffness of joints and reluctance of the animal to move has been observed, recovery of animals with these signs may take several additional days. In very rare cases, where hoary alyssum comprised 30 to 70% of the hay, circumstantial evidence exists associating the plant with the death of a few horses, however, death has not occurred in horses fed hay containing hoary alyssum under experimental conditions. In field cases, only half of the animals ingesting hay containing more than 30% hoary alyssum demonstrated any signs of toxicity. The cases of severe "stocking up," apparent founder, and death have only been observed in horses ingesting hay containing more than 30% hoary alyssum. Usually, only mild "stocking up" has been observed in horses on pasture or those ingesting hay with less than 30% hoary alyssum. Bottom line: hay containing 30% or more of hoary alyssum, or any weed for that matter, should not be fed to horses. If you think your horse is suffering from hoary alyssum toxicity, contact your vet, as these clinical signs can be produced by many other diseases, including strangles.
- Krishona Martinson, PhD, U of M

Is it safe to fog my barn for flies if my hay is stored inside the barn?
There are many kinds of insecticides on the market that can be applied as space sprays inside closed barns. Most available products for this use contain active ingredients that are botanical pyrethrins or pyrethroids. These chemicals kill the adult flies that are exposed directly to the spray. In general, these chemicals can be used safely inside horse barns, because they are relatively non-toxic to animals and people, and their active ingredients break down rapidly. Some product labels state clearly that application to animals or their feeds should be avoided, while others are less restrictive. Whichever material you choose, you should read the package label carefully and follow its instructions. Look for statements about how to apply the material, and for statements that would restrict the kinds of places where the product can be used safely. You should avoid direct application to feeds and animals, unless the labels state otherwise. Benefits of fogging closed barns are likely to be temporary. Time required for fly numbers to return will depend on how much fly breeding is occurring inside the barn, and how well the barn is screened to exclude flies from outside.
- Roger Moon, PhD, U of M

Can I treat my manure pile with anything to help reduce the amount of flies at my barn?
Your manure pile may be producing flies, depending on temperature, moisture content, and how long before it is spread. However, flies are likely to be coming from other sources, and spraying the manure pile alone may not produce the desired results. Breeding sites can be located by searching your premise for places where maggots are actively developing, including soiled bedding, feed debris, areas around waterers, etc. Once located, sources can be eliminated by scraping and spreading the manure, and by preventing manure accumulations from recurring. If stall "pickings" must be piled, then consider composting as an alternative to spraying. For maggot control, you will need to create a hot, actively composting pile, where temperatures are greater than 140 °F. Fresh manure will need to be mixed with another source of carbon, such as straw or sawdust. If space permits, create a new pile each week, and turn all piles weekly to maintain aerobic conditions.
- Roger Moon, PhD, U of M

How warm should my water be during the winter to help ensure my horses drink enough?
To maximize water intake, water temperature should be between 45 -65 degrees F. To help maintain water temperature, it is a good idea to house the water source inside a barn or lean-to if possible. If the water source needs to be outside, make sure the water source is protected from the wind and freezing rain and/or snow.
- Marcia Hathaway, PhD, U of M

I've recently heard that a Coggins test is not necessary. I'd also like some current facts on Equine Infection Anemia (EIA) and its risk to my horses.
First of all, a Coggins test, named after the virologist who developed the test, Leroy Coggins, tests for EIA. Many labs are now using a simpler ELISA test for EIA. EIA, also known as Swamp Fever, must be federally reported. There is no treatment, or vaccine. That is why there are laws requiring testing for public exhibition or interstate transportation. The virus is like HIV in humans, but is primarily transmitted by biting flies. The best way to limit the spread of EIA is through annual testing of all horses, and immediate testing of any horse that shows signs compatible with the disease (fever, blood spots on mucous membranes, swelling of limbs, anemia). Horses with acute EIA have very high levels of virus in its blood, enough that one teaspoon has enough virus to infect thousands of horses. The asymptomatic (showing no signs) horse has much lower levels of virus in their blood, but still poses a risk to nearby horses. The number of positive horses in Minnesota, by county, is readily available at the website: http://www.bah.state.mn.us/diseases/eia/eia_map.pdf The majority of these cases were identified by routine testing. Nationally, the distribution of the disease can be readily viewed at this website: http://www.aphis.usda.gov/vs/nahps/equine/eia/. The national website also shows the trends in data per year. In Minnesota in 2005, 5 horses tested positive out of 47,118 samples. Minnesota has had several years in the last ten where the positive cases were in the double digits. Several states, such as Arkansas and Texas, have had very active campaigns to reduce EIA cases. These testing programs have been successful in reducing the numbers of EIA cases and need to be continued. Testing for EIA IS NECESSARY (via a Coggins test) to track and help contain the disease. It is recommended that all horses be tested annually for EIA. Testing is mandatory for horses being transported across state lines and attending certain shows or group events.
- Julie Wilson, DVM, U of M

What options do I have if my broodmare is unable to provide colostrum for her newborn foal?
A broodmare may be unable to provide colostrum, for a variety of reasons, such as premature leakage, fescue toxicity, sudden death or mastitis. If the broodmare owner can anticipate this need, the best option is to find equine colostrum from a donor mare or farm, and administer it to the newborn foal in the first 2 hours of life. Ideally colostrum feeding should continue for at least the first 48 hours. Colostrum contains concentrated antibodies against important infectious diseases. Good quality colostrum is thick, yellow to gray in color, and very sticky. Colostrum can be collected from either healthy mares that bear a stillborn foal, or from healthy mares that have an abundance, and can be frozen in ice cube trays and stored for future need. This is a common practice, and carries only a slight risk of complications. The U of M offer the National Colostrum network that maintains a list of horse owners willing to give or sell colostrum to other horse owners in need. This 24 hour hotline can be reached at 651-647-8391. If a horse owner is unable to locate equine colostrum, 2 other alternatives are equine plasma given orally or intravenously, or bovine colostrum. Equine plasma has some of the same benefits as equine colostrum, but must be given in the first 12 hours of life. Bovine colostrum offers good protection against some of the intestinal diseases that affect both calves and foals, but may cause mild destruction of red blood cells. Lastly, if economic constraints do not allow for these interventions, every effort should be made to keep the foal as clean and dry as possible. The foal will be very vulnerable to infectious diseases until it's immune system matures sufficiently to make its own antibodies.
- Julie Wilson, DVM, U of M

My vet suggested that we vaccinate the show horses and the colts for equine Herpes virus infections, as he is concerned about the neurological form of the disease. I thought only broodmares needed to be vaccinated for this.
Many people share your interest in the protection provided by vaccination for equine Herpes virus infections, which can be highly contagious. Horses are most often affected by two types: Equine Herpes Virus 1 (EHV1) and Equine Herpes Virus 4 (EHV4). EHV4 causes upper respiratory disease with cold-like signs in horses, frequently spreading through a stable or herd. In contrast, EHV1 infection is associated with broodmare abortions in the second half of pregnancy or the birth of weak foals that seldom survive without very intensive treatment. In the past, most veterinarians routinely recommended vaccination against EHV1 to reduce the risk of herpes abortion in broodmares, and EHV4 vaccination to prevent respiratory disease. There is some cross protection between EHV1 and EHV4 vaccines, and stronger immunity may occur from the modified live vaccines (Rhinommune and Calvenza). None of the vaccines were believed to protect the horse from the neurologic signs associated with EHV1. However, a new study conducted at Cornell University has challenged this belief. Using the strain of EHV1 that caused an outbreak of neurologic disease in multiple horses in Ohio, the researcher was able to show that prior vaccination with the modified live product, Rhinommune, actually prevented development of the neurologic disease in the majority of the animals when ponies were experimentally exposed to this strain. This vaccine, although originally designed to protect horses from EHV4, also has been shown to offer protection from abortion induced by EHV1 when administered quarterly. For owners of multiple broodmares, this alleviates the headache of timing vaccination specifically at 5, 7 and 9 months of gestation, as recommended for the killed EHV1 vaccine, Pneumabort K. The quarterly recommendation is made for high risk broodmares only. Most veterinarians vaccinate other horses annually or semi-annually. Until more data is available, it is premature to recommend that all horses get the extra vaccinations.
- Julie Wilson, DVM, U of M

What is certified hay and where must it be used?
The certified noxious weed seed free forage program is designated to assure that certified forage meets the minimum standards designed to limit the spread of noxious weeds. In Minnesota, there are no areas where certified forage (hay) must be used. When trail riding and camping in public parks, it is considered voluntary to use certified hay. However, if you are planning a trail ride or camping trip with your horse to Wyoming, Idaho, Kansas, Montana, South Dakota, North Dakota, Nebraska, Utah or Colorado to ride on public lands, then certified hay must be used. The penalty for using non-certified hay ranges from 68 to $1,370, and offender could also be responsible for the recovery costs to wildlife habitat. For a current list of producers of certified noxious weed seed free forage in Minnesota, please call the MN Crop Improvement Association at 800-510-6242. For more information, visit the horse team website (www.extension.umn.edu/horse).
- Krishona Martinson, PhD, U of M

My horse is at a boarding barn. Her paddock is quite large and grassy, but extremely over-grazed. Someone told me I could get nitrogen fertilizer to put down and that would help. Would it, and is it safe for my mare to then be out there grazing every day? I know rotational grazing is ideal, but not possible.
You are correct, rotational grazing would be best. However, there are a few things you can do to improve the conditions.
1) Dragging the paddock will help break up manure piles, dry out the manure, and distributes nutrients back to the pasture. You do not need a fancy drag, a pallet works just fine.
2) Mowing helps even out the pasture area, maintains vegetative growth, and helps to control weeds. Mowing pastures to a height of 4" three to four times a year will keep the grasses in a vegetative stage, a more desirable and palatable growth stage. Make sure to mowing weeds at or before flowering to prevent new seeds from entering the soil.
3) Before applying fertilizer, take a soil sample to determine if the pasture needs additional fertilizer. If it does, split the fertilizer in thirds and apply the fertilizer on major summer holidays (Memorial Day, 4th of July and Labor Day). Make sure you can no longer see the fertilizer pellets before you turn your horse back into the pasture to reduce the chance of accidental ingestion. Horses will most likely need to be taken off of the pasture area after fertilizing to ensure the pellets have dissolved into the ground (it's best to fertilizer prior to a rain event).
Finally, try to educate the barn owners on the importance of rotational grazing and resting the pasture. Allowing appropriate rest periods (approximately 30 days for every 1-2 weeks of grazing) can help reduce overgrazing and stress on desirable pasture plants. It's hard to properly manage a pasture if the horses are never, or can never be, removed. If the owners will not practice rotational grazing, try to get them to build sacrifice areas, or holding areas, where the horse(s) can be kept while the pasture is resting, this will also give you a chance to mow, drag and use herbicides to control weeds if necessary.
- Krishona Martinson, PhD, U of M

I have a client that is wondering how they can protect their horses from ticks. He's wondering if he can pour on, or inject, Ivomec.
Given horse skin can be quite sensitive, it is best to stay ON LABEL! I think there are oral pastes of ivermectin (and moxidectin), which will produce blood titers high enough to kill feeding ticks. I am less sure about pour-ons for horses. If one were worried about ticks on horses, my advice would be to keep them out of areas where ticks will be abundant. These would be densely vegetated (tall grass, shrubby ground) habitats. Dry paddocks and grazed pastures inside fences should not be a problem. Before riding into such areas, dose legs with a permethrin-based product (again, only if formulated for use on horses), which will repel ticks before they get attached.
- Roger Moon, PhD, U of M

I know it's a good idea to get a soil test, but how do I collect a sample and where do I send it?
Soil tests can be no better than the sample. Therefore, proper collection of the soil sample is extremely important. One sample should not represent more than 20 acres on level, uniform landscapes, or 5 acres on hilly or rolling land. Within each area collect 15-30 subsamples (cores, borings, or spade slices) in a zig-zag pattern throughout the designated field area. The more variable the soil, the more subsamples should be combined per area sampled. Scrape off all surface residue from the subsample site. Sample to a depth of 6-8 inches for cultivated crops, or 3 inches for pasture or sod fields. Also avoid sampling dead or back furrows, terraces, old fence rows, lime or fertilizer spill areas, headlands, eroded knolls, low spots, or small saline areas. Sample at least 300 feet away from gravel or crushed limestone roads because their dust changes soil pH. Mix the subsamples thoroughly in a clean plastic pail, and fill the sample box or bag to the fill line (1 pint). If the samples must be taken wet, they should be dried before being mixed and submitted to the Laboratory. Do not exceed a drying temperature of 97F, and do not use a microwave unless only the nitrate test is requested.

Each sample needs to be accompanied by an information sheet (soiltest.coafes.umn.edu/index.htm). Fill out the information sheet as completely as possible so that accurate recommendations can be given. Keep a copy for your records. If you prefer, we can mail you a soil test kit containing the forms as well as small sample containers for holding the samples. Make sure you specify which type of kit you would like: Lawn and Garden or Farm Field and give us your complete postal mailing address. Prices for testing are listed on the Information Sheets or on the website. Enclose a check payable to the University of Minnesota for all services requested. Do not send cash. The University of Minnesota will not be responsible for cash sent through the mail. The sender pays the postage. Enclose the information sheet along with a check made out to the University of Minnesota and mail to:

Soil Testing Laboratory, University of Minnesota
1902 Dudley Ave.
St. Paul, MN 55108

The sample can also be brought to the laboratory. Fill out the information sheet along with a check made out to the University of Minnesota and bring to: Room 135 Crops Research Building, University of Minnesota, St. Paul Campus. For more information, see the website http://soiltest.coafes.umn.edu/index.htm.
- Krishona Martinson, PhD, U of M

The soils in my horse pasture have a very high level of clay. Areas that my horses use a lot get very compacted. If I want to reseed a compacted area what steps would you recommend I take so that the grass will grow?
Compacted soil resists absorption of water, restricts movement of air around the roots, and produces a physical barrier to the development of roots. Research from Montana Sate University, suggests that wet, muddy soils were not compaction by horse hooves when horses were grazed for short periods of time. Longer term changes in soil compaction may result from repeated or continuous grazing. If you are experiences compaction from horse hooves, it should only be surface compaction and if your pasture is getting sufficient rest, the compaction should be minimal. On average, pasture areas need 30 days of rest between grazing periods of approximately 7 days. The rest period allow the pasture to rejuvenate and regrow. This rest period can also be beneficial to horse owners. It allows time to mow (keep the pasture in a vegetative stage), fertilize (if needed), drag (disperse manure clumps), and chemically control weeds (if necessary). All of which the University recommends horse owners do several times a year (chemical weed control and fertilizing only if needed). If resting the pasture area doesn't seem help, aerification should. Aerification has several distinct advantages in a grassy situation including: relieving soil compaction, increasing water and oxygen infiltration into the soil, and helping to control the development of thatch. Aerification is best done in the cooler weather of late summer (August 20 to September 20). Aerification is done with an aerifier. An aerifier is a machine which removes plugs of soil, leaving holes about 1/2-inch in diameter and up to 3 inches deep. The cores of soil are typically left on the soil surface to gradually break down and filter back into the grass. If you have a large pasture, aerification might not be practical. An aerifier can be rented or aerification can be hired through a lawn service. Planting pastures is best done in the fall as well. When trying to establish a pasture in a compacted area (or any area), first take a soils test. Fertilize the area as needed, aerate, then drag your seed (or use a slit seeder) into the ground. If severe compaction is observed, tillage (such as plowing or disking) may be needed. Remember, that unless you change your practices (like giving the pasture rest), compaction will continue to occur.
- Krishona Martinson, PhD, U of M

I have areas of my pasture that remain quite wet for an extended period of time after it rains. Would reed canary grass work well in these types of areas, and if so where can this grass seed be found? I have not seen it sold in your basic nursery type stores that sell grass seed.
Reed canarygrass is one of the best species for poorly drained soils and tolerates flooding better than other cool season grasses. Reed canarygrass tends to be more expensive and more difficult to establish than other grass species, but is suited for the situation you described. Reed canarygrass can also be invasive, but newer varieties tend to be less invasive. This means, it might be difficult to remove reed canarygrass from your pastures once it's established. Several agricultural coops and feed stores should sell reed canarygrass. In your area, try contacting Marties in Elk River or Peterson's Mill in North Branch. Be sure to keep horses out of the wet areas until they have completely dried. If the horses are allowed to graze when wet, it can result in soil compaction, destruction of plant material, hoof problems and other potential injuries.
- Krishona Martinson, PhD, U of M

What care (shelter and nutrition) do I need to provide for my horse during the winter?
Horses prefer, and are better off, outdoors even in cold weather, and will acclimate to cold temperatures if given the opportunity. However, horses should have access to shelter from wind, sleet, and storms. Free access to a stable or open-sided shed works well as well as trees if a building is not available. In the absence of wind and moisture, horses tolerate temperatures at or slightly below 0°F. If horses have access to a shelter, they can tolerate temperature as low as -40°F. However, horses are most comfortable at temperatures between 18-59°F, depending on their hair coat. Keep in mind that a horse's winter coat can be an excellent insulator, but its insulating value is lost if it gets wet, so it is important to keep the horse dry and sheltered from moisture. Blanketing the horse is beneficial when the effective of wind-chill and/or temperature is less than comfortable; however during comfortable temperatures, blanketing is not beneficial. If you house you horse in a closed and heated stable, make sure it is properly ventilated. Poorly ventilated barns can result in respiratory problems. In terms of feeding, energy needs for maintenance horses increase 0.7% for each degree of temperature below 18°F. It is best to provide the extra energy as forages (i.e. hay). Much more heat is produced when forages are fermented which helps heat the horse from the inside, compared to the digestion and absorption of grains. Most data suggest that the need for other nutrients do not change during cold weather. Water should be kept between 45 to 65°F (use of a tank heater, etc.) to maximize water consumption. Waters should be cleaned regularly, and clean fresh water should always be available, regardless of temperature.
- Krishona Martinson, PhD, U of M

Where can I get hydrated lime? I'm trying to do everything I can for fly prevention and putting lime in stalls and in wet areas was recommended to me.
Hydrate lime, calcium hydroxide, (commonly sold as barn line - any coop or farm supply store should have it), increases pH. It can help reduce ammonia odor in barn stalls. It will also help absorb moisture, which may help reduce flies. At doses likely to be applied (usually minimal amounts), it is unlikely to provide benefit for fly control. Maggots are pretty tolerant of wide ranges in pH. If you are using lime in a pasture area, significant use of the lime may increase the pH enough to inhibit some plant growth.

Does hay give horses colic?
Hay diets (horses should receive at least 2/3 of their nutrition from forage (i.e. hay or pasture)) tend to lower the risk of colic (horse on pasture pose the lowest risk). Good quality hay (free of dust, mold, weeds, and other foreign matter) should not give horses colic. However, quickly changing hay types or qualities (i.e. changing quickly from a grass hay to an alfalfa hay) can induce colic, along with hay that is weedy, dusty or moldy. Several things can induce colic in horses, but quality hay is not usually one of them.

How large should my dry lot (sacrifice paddocks) be? Also, how large of a shelter should I build for my horses?
Dry lots, or sacrifice paddocks, provide an opportunity to move horses off the pasture during wet, dry, or times of needed pasture rest. Dry lots can vary in size but should provide a minimum of 400 square feet per horse. You also need to account for feeding, water, and shelter space. Also, 400 square feet assumes the horses in the dry lot get along with one another. A three-sided shed or lean-to, can provide adequate shelter or your horse. A 12' by 12' lean-to can accommodate 1 to 2 horses. As horse numbers increase, run-in shed dimensions should increase by 12'/horse. For example, if you have 3-4 horses, you would need a 12' x 24', and with 5-6 horses, a 12' x 48" lean-to would be sufficient. For more information, go to www.extension.org/horse.

I'm having trouble with ice in my horse paddocks. How can I remove the ice?
Ice is a problem in horse paddocks as falls and slips can lead to serious injury. The best solution is to remove the horse from the paddock, until the ice melts, but few horse owners have that option. Sand can be helpful to increase traction. However, it is ideal to not feed the horses in the area where the sand is spread to minimize the risk of ingestion. Straight salt can speed the melting of the ice if temperatures are not too cold. There is no research documenting the effect of salt on horse hooves, but pure salt should be used in moderation as a precaution. If using pure salt to melt ice, make sure the horses have an alternative source of salt to reduce ingestion off the ground. A mixture of sand and salt should not be used in horse paddocks due to the chance of horses accidentally ingesting the sand via their interest in the salt. Other options like shavings, hay, and straw tend to slide over ice and do not provide additional traction. Small rocks can provide traction, but can be accidentally ingested or become lodged in hooves. To reduce water/ice in the future, improve the grade, install gutters on the barn, and reduce the amount of manure in the paddock.

When should I begin grazing my horse?
Spring turn-out (grazing) should be determined by: stocking rate (how many horses and pasture acreage), pasture species and condition, and ability and availability of mowing/haying equipment for paddocks that may get too tall/mature for effective pasturing. On average, 2 acres of well-managed pasture can provide the forage needs for one horse from spring to fall. "Well managed" means subdivided into at least 3 paddocks, fertilizing according to soil tests, and controlling weeds. If you have that much or more acreage per horse, you may want to start grazing early to get a jump on the spring pasture growth. If you have less then 2 acres per horse, the pasture cannot be expected to meet all the forage needs for your horses during the grazing season. Plan to provide some hay and designate a sacrifice area/paddock to feed horses as needed to allow adequate rest (on average 30 days) for the pasture. If you are overstocked, it may make sense to wait until you have more spring growth before grazing, since staying ahead of the spring flush will be less of a concern. Grass pastures with good stands of Kentucky bluegrass or smooth bromegrass can handle early spring grazing. "Early" means when bluegrass is 3-4" tall and bromegrass is about 6" inches tall. These grasses are sod-forming and tolerant of horse hoof damage. Pastures dominated by bunchy-growing grasses like orchardgrass and timothy should be taller (about 10"). These grasses are more easily damaged by hoof action and grazing. If conditions are really wet, it's best to wait, regardless of plant height.

My quarterhorse has had a problem with founder and laminitis. His front left coffin bone has stabilized. He also has a thyroid problem, but current medication has that stabilized. My question is, when we do trail ride, which is mainly walking, but some light trotting up hills, he breaks out in severe sweats with little or no riding. When we stop, his front section will go into slight tremors or leg shakes. I am wondering if I should have further testing done, or if this is normal considering his past issues.
How old is your horse? Older horses with founder should be considered as potentially having Cushings disease. These horses will not shed out well, may drink/urinate more, and can have what we used to consider a low thyroid appearance. The disease makes them more prone to repeat founder episodes but can be controlled with medication. These horses do tend to sweat more, too. Have you tried him on pain meds to see if he still shakes? I would be concerned that he isn't handling the trail ride well and it is becoming too painful or too tired and then starts shaking. If it is pain related, he should be better on a test dose of bute. If the bute helps, he needs further testing to see if the pain is from his foot or someplace else in his leg. Just continuing to ride him on the bute can put him at risk for further injury until you know why he is painful. If the bute doesn't help, he may not be able to handle the work due to his condition. In this case, a good overall exam may help determine his muscle condition and strength. Cushings horses tend to lose muscle tone. Muscle biopsies can help diagnose underlying problems and should be considered in younger horses. Electrolyte abnormalities in the blood could also cause the shakes but he would likely be a low risk candidate for this. Finally, if his foot is the issue, there are surgeries to help realign the bone in the hoof to make it less painful for him. We do think that the malalignment leads to stress and pain.

How can I protect my horse from ticks?
Given horse skin can be quite sensitive, it is best to stay ON LABEL! I think there are oral pastes of ivermectin (and moxidectin), which will produce blood titers high enough to kill feeding ticks. I am less sure about pour-ons for horses. If one were worried about ticks on horses, my advice would be to keep them out of areas where ticks will be abundant. These would be densely vegetated (tall grass, shrubby ground) habitats where mice abound. Dry paddocks and grazed pastures inside fences should not be a problem. Before riding into such areas, dose legs with a permethrin-based product (again, only if formulated for use on horses), which will repel ticks before they get attached.

My mare acts up when she is in heat. We aren't planning on breeding her so we are considering having her spayed. What are our options?
You do have a few options. However, it is important to make sure the ovaries are the cause of the behavior problem. Medical treatment involves adjusting her hormones so that she doesn't come into heat. The most commonly used drug is progesterone (Regumate®). This is given daily as an oral medication. Surgical treatment generally involves removing the ovaries and leaving the uterus. There are many ways to do this. The UMN recommends a standing ovariectomy using the laparoscope and an instrument that melts the blood vessels shut. The laparoscope is the key tool for minimally invasive (keyhole) surgery and allows rapid healing with minimal complications. It also lets the surgeon see the ovary and its blood vessels. The Ligasure® is an instrument that works through the keyhole incisions and is a safe way to control or prevent bleeding in this surgery. Other options for removing ovaries include flank or vaginal incisions without the laparoscope but these methods have additional risks, including hemorrhage and problems associated with the vaginal incision (intestines can come out through the incision, infection can enter the abdomen, etc). Sometimes ovaries need to be removed under general anesthesia due to the size of the ovaries or for the safety of the horse or surgeon, but with the latest techniques we are often able to remove the ovaries safely during a standing procedure.

I have a question about brewers yeast for horses. Can it help the digestive system, hoof health, and improve fiber digestion?
Yeast appears to have an important role in the microbial digestion process, but the precise mode of action has not been identified. Yeast also appears to improve feed palatability, which helps horses maintain a more consistent feed intake. Therefore, yeast may help overcome the negative effects of less palatable feeds. Feeding yeast to horses falls into 2 categories: dead and alive. Dead: brewer's yeast is one of the by-products derived from brewing. In the dry form, the brewer's yeast contains a relatively high concentration of high quality protein, and is also a good source of fat, water-soluble B vitamins (exception is B12) and the mineral phosphorus. It is sometime fed to horses in poor condition at the rate of 30 - 50 g/day, but is usually too expensive to feed regularly. Live: yeast cultures of live yeast organisms are also used as a probiotics - live organisms that are fed daily and potentially have a positive role in the microorganism populations in the hind-gut. The most common strains of yeast fed as probiotics are Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Aspergillus oryzae and Torulopsis. Based primarily on work with ruminants (cattle), live yeast cultures have been shown to synthesize a wide variety of enzymes that are able to break down fiber and proteins. Researchers have tested over 50 strains of S. cerevisiae and found only seven strains with the ability to stimulate growth of fiber-digesting bacteria. Consequently, these yeast cultures can aide in the digestion of forages, and to a limited extent, proteins and carbohydrates in grains (limited because most of the digestion of cereal grains occurs in the foregut of the horse). The effectiveness of probiotics in horses of various ages is somewhat questionable. Investigations have shown that the effect of time since manufacturing, temperature variations, and acidity in foregut can all have an impact on viability of probiotics microorganism. Many of the probiotics available have been isolated and cultured from species different from the horse, and therefore many not be compatible with the equine gastrointestinal tract environment. There have been a few studies which indicate that feeding live yeast cultures to young growing horses may have some benefit, with no advantage for the mature, healthy horse. Horses with some conditions do seem to benefit, but without further studies, these products fall into the "can't hurt, may help" category.

How can nutrition affect hoof health?
Maintaining your horse's nutrition can help alleviate some hoof problems. Feeding good quality hay, supplementing vitamins and trace mineral, and making sure your horse has constant access to fresh, clean water is important for hoof health and overall horse health. Poor nutrition can lead to future hoof problems, and correcting a horse's nutrition can gradually improve hoof health over time. Cooperation between horse owners, veterinarians, and equine nutritionists are needed to ensure proper horse nutrition. Research has shown that horses with poor quality hooves can benefit from commercially available hoof care products that contain Biotin (20 mg/day), Iodine (1 mg/day), Methionine (2500 mg/day) and Zinc (175 to 250 mg/day).

I was just wondering if you could tell me where I could get my hay tested for nutritional value and for unwanted matter?
Hay can be analyzed or tested to determine the following: moisture, protein, minerals, sugar, energy, mold content, and more. DHIA (320-352-2028), Dairyland (320-240-1737) and the Minnesota Veterinary Diagnostic laboratory (612-625-8787), all based in MN, can test hay for these qualities. Be sure to request an equine analysis and remember that the analysis is only as good as the sample you submit. Its probably a good idea to call the company you choose to get their recommendations for sample collection. The tests run around $20/sample (for a basic analysis) and takes a few days to run, once the sample is received.