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Stone fruits for Minnesota gardens

Dr. Emily E. Hoover, Emily S. Tepe and Doug Foulk

pile of plums

About stone fruits

two plums on a branch

Superior is a winter hardy plum that is right at home in most Minnesota gardens.

Stone fruit trees are easy to grow, provided you accept a few limitations in northern climates. It is important to select a cultivar that is hardy to your USDA hardiness zone. Most stone fruit cultivars are very much at home in zone 5 and higher, but there are a growing number that are proving hardy in colder zones.

All stone fruits are of the genus Prunus, and many cultivars are hybrids of various Prunus species. In addition, because of a condition called self-incompatibility, hybrid plums and apricots require at least two different cultivars located within about 100 yards of one another for pollination to occur and fruit to be produced. Hybrid plums require a specific second cultivar within 100 yards for pollination (see cultivar charts). For example, in order to get fruit from an Alderman plum, one would have to plant either a Toka or Superior plum as well (or a native American or Canadian plum). European plums and tart cherries are self-compatible. They do not require two cultivars to produce fruit, however they will generally produce more fruit if a second cultivar is nearby.

Stone fruit species and hybrids for Minnesota

Common name Scientific name Pollination Mature height 1
European Plum Prunus domestica self-compatible 15-20'
Hybrid Plum P. salicina x P. americana self-incompatible; pollenizer required 15-20'
Tart Cherry P. cerasus self-compatible 8-15'
Hybrid Apricot P. armeniaca x P. mandshurica self-incompatible; pollenizer required 15-20'

1Mature height listed in this table is an estimate; plant size at maturity will depend upon cultivar and growing conditions. When planting multiple stone fruit plants, assume that the spread will be at least as great as the height. In other words, two trees with a mature height of 15-20' will need to be spaced at least 20' apart at planting.


Plum trees, like these Alderman trees at the University of Minnesota Horticultural Research Center, put on a spring show of pale yellow and pink blooms.

Plums are very much at home in the Minnesota garden, provided you choose the right cultivars. There are quite a few hybrid plum cultivars, and a couple European plum cultivars that perform well in most areas of Minnesota. Local garden centers and online nurseries are carrying more and more hardy plums, making it easier for Minnesota gardeners to grow these delicious fruits. Plums, along with tart cherries, are the most reliable stone fruits for Minnesota gardens. Fruit of various cultivars ranges from deep purple to red to pale yellow, and the flavors are equally varied. Most require a second compatible cultivar to ensure maximum pollination and good fruit set. Toka is the most highly recommended cultivar for cross-pollination, as it is compatible with many other cultivars; the fruit of Toka is delicious too!


Mesabi cherry has a sprightly sweet-tart flavor. The fruit will get sweeter the longer they hang on the tree. Just be sure the birds don't get them first.

Of all types of cherries, tart cherries (also known as pie or sour cherries) are best adapted to northern climates. Tart cherry trees are small compared to their sweet-fruited relatives, growing only to about 15 feet tall, and a few cultivars only to about 8 feet -- perfect for small spaces. These attractive, vase-shaped to rounded trees have stunning copper bark and beautiful dark green, glossy foliage. When in flower, the trees are covered with small, white, fragrant blossoms. Later in summer, the bright red cherries are a vibrant contrast with the dark foliage. As autumn arrives, the foliage turns a lovely orange hue. Of all stone fruits, tart cherries are the most self-fruitful, but a second compatible cultivar will ensure even better pollination and fruit set.


Moongold apricot has candy-pink flowers that are deliciously fragrant.

Apricots are soft and tender, both in terms of fruit and personality. There are only a couple cultivars that are hardy in Minnesota, and these are more delicate than plums or tart cherries. The fruit of hardy apricots isn't quite as juicy as those of warmer climates, but still has delicious flavor and is excellent for making preserves.


Peaches love warmth more than the other stone fruits, and so are the most limited in cultivars that can be grown in Minnesota. If you live in the southern part of the state or have a particularly mild micro-climate in your yard, you might have success with one of the few hardier peach cultivars. These include Reliance, Contender, and Intrepid; befitting names for peaches growing in the North. Gardeners in the Twin Cities growing these cultivars report they get a moderate crop of peaches every year or so. If you're a peach lover, it's certainly worth a try.

Rewarding trees

The trickiest part about growing stone fruits is the fact that they bloom early in the spring. Spring is notorious for temperature fluctuation. A few warm days might be followed by a cold night with frost, which is the biggest enemy of stone fruits. The delicate flowers are easily frozen, and a whole season's worth of fruit might be lost in a single cold night.

As you can see, stone fruits pose a bit of a challenge in Minnesota, but don't let that sway you. The trees are relatively easy to grow and manage. They may not produce fruit every year, and they may not live as long as a cold-hardy apple tree, but if you enjoy eating these fruits the weather gamble is worth it. In the years you do get fruit, you will get a lot of it.

Helpful hints

  • Stone fruit trees need full sun to produce the most fruit.
  • Space trees 12 to 20 feet apart.
  • Many stone fruits are not self-fruitful. Plant two different, compatible cultivars to ensure fruit.
  • Prune annually to maintain tree shape and a healthy, open canopy.
  • Expect to get fruit 2 to 5 years after planting, if you plant a 1 or 2 year old tree.
  • Remember, all stone fruits bloom very early in the spring. Some years flowers are damaged by freezing temperatures, meaning no fruit that year. But don't worry, you'll probably get fruit next year.


Many cold-hardy stone fruit cultivars were developed by the University of Minnesota fruit breeding program years ago, and are still popular and readily available. Some newer cultivars have been developed by other university breeding programs, and are showing very promising results. While some stone fruit cultivars are self-fruitful, it is always recommended to plant a second pollen-compatible tree to ensure a good fruit set. Not all cultivars have compatible pollen, however. The following tables include suggestions for pollen-compatible cultivars. Wild American plums (P. americana) and Canadian plums (P. nigra) can be good pollen sources for hybrid plum cultivars. Truly wild plum trees are somewhat difficult to find at nurseries, however if you already have these trees in your yard they will provide pollen for your selected cultivar.

As with any cultivar list, this one is not all-inclusive. There may be additional and older cultivars that are hardy to this region, however some are no longer readily available or do not produce high quality fruit. There may be some that have not been successful in University of Minnesota trials, but might do well in your yard. Those included in this list have performed well in trials and are generally available at local and online nurseries.

Underwood plum

two cherries cut in half on plate

Meteor cherry

apricot on black background cut in half with seed removed

Westcot apricot

Hybrid plum cultivars recommended for northern gardens. Cultivars in bold are University of Minnesota releases and include date of introduction.

Cultivar Hardiness Tree size Pollen compatibility Average
harvest date1
Zone 4 Zone 3  
Alderman (1986) Good Fair to 20 feet Superior, Toka, P. americana, P. nigra Mid-August
UM's most famous plum. Attractive trees produce large, sweet, juicy fruit with burgundy skin and golden flesh.
BlackIce™ Very good Good to 10 feet Toka, P. americana, P. nigra Late July to early August
U Wisconsin release (2006). Naturally dwarf tree with weeping form. Large 2-inch fruit has blue-black skin with deep red flesh.
LaCrescent (1923) Very good Good to 15 feet Toka, P. americana, P. nigra; NOT Superior Late July to early August
Small to medium fruit with yellow skin and flesh. Juicy and very sweet with slight apricot flavor. Sharper flavor when canned. Vigorous grower but often a shy bearer.
Pembina Very good Good to 15 feet Toka, P. americana, P. nigra Mid- to late August
Introduced in South Dakota in 1923, extremely cold-hardy, possibly to zone 2. Large, pointed fruit has bright red skin and sweet, juicy yellow flesh.
Pipestone (1942) Very good Good to 15 feet Toka, P. americana, P. nigra Mid-August
Hardiness and adaptability to dry areas make it a valuable cultivar. Very large fruit has thin, tough, bright red skin enclosing medium-firm, melting, sweet golden flesh.
Stanley Fair Poor to 12 feet Self-fruitful. Does not need another cultivar for pollen. Early September
This European prune-type plum has blue skin and pale yellow flesh. The sweet, dry flesh makes it ideal for preserves and drying. Less hardy than Mount Royal. Best grown in Southern MN.
Superior (1933) Good Poor to 15 feet Alderman, Toka, P. americana, P. nigra; NOT LaCrescent Mid-August
Large fruit with bright red skin and yellow flesh. Rich, super-sweet flavor.
Toka Good Fair to 20 feet All other hybrid plum cultivars, P. americana, P. nigra Mid- to late August
Recommended as a pollenizer tree. Fruit has deep magenta skin with golden flesh. Rich, spicy-sweet flavor.
Underwood (1920) Very good Good to 15 feet Toka, P. americana, P. nigra Mid- to late July
One of the oldest commonly available UM releases. Very hardy hybrid plum. Medium sized, heart-shaped fruit has red skin and soft yellow flesh.
Waneta Very good Good to 15 feet Toka, P. americana, P. nigra Late July to early August
Developed in South Dakota in 1913, fruit has red skin with sweet, juicy yellow flesh. Very hardy.

1Average harvest date is for east central Minnesota. Harvest dates may shift depending on your area.

European prune-type plum cultivars recommended for northern gardens.

Cultivar Hardiness Tree size Pollen compatibility Average
harvest date1
Zone 4 Zone 3  
Mount Royal Good Very good to 15 feet Self-compatible Mid- to late August
European prune-type plum has blue skin and yellow flesh. Heavy producer. Delicious right off the tree, but also well suited to drying and preserving.
Stanley Fair Poor to 12 feet Self-compatible Early September
This European prune-type plum has blue skin and pale yellow flesh. The sweet, dry flesh of this plum makes it ideal for preserves and drying. Less hardy than Mount Royal. Best grown in Southern MN.

1Average harvest date is for east central Minnesota. Harvest dates may shift depending on your area.

Tart cherry cultivars recommended for northern gardens. Cultivars in bold are University of Minnesota releases and include date of introduction

Cultivar Hardiness Tree size Pollen compatibility Average
harvest date1
Zone 4 Zone 3  
Evans/Bali Very good Good to 15 feet Self-compatible Mid-July
Extremely cold-hardy. Large, bright red fruit with small pits. Fruit will sweeten if left on the tree and protected from birds. Sold as Evans or Bali, or Evans Bali.
Mesabi Very good Fair to 12 feet Self-compatible Late June to early July
A cross between a sweet and tart cherry, Mesabi is a bit sweeter than other tart cherry cultivars. Bright red skin with pale red flesh.
Meteor (1952) Very good Fair to 14 feet Self-compatible Early July
This vigorous tree produces heavy crops of bright red fruit with yellow flesh.
North Star (1950) Very good Fair to 10 feet Self-compatible Late June to early July
Small stature makes North Star perfect for small spaces. Fruit has dark red skin and red flesh. Heavy producer.
Suda Very good Fair to 10 feet Self-compatible Late July
Deep red fruit has the darkest juice of the tart cherries. Great for processing and freezing. A little harder to find than other cultivars.

1Average harvest date is for east central Minnesota. Harvest dates may shift depending on your area.

Apricot cultivars recommended for northern gardens. Cultivars in bold are University of Minnesota releases and include date of introduction.

Cultivar Hardiness Tree size Pollen compatibility Average
harvest date1
Zone 4 Zone 3  
Har-series Fair Poor to 20 feet Self-compatible, but a second cultivar will increase fruit set. Late July to mid-August
Includes Harcot, Harglow, Hargrand, Harogem, Harlayne. Developed in Canada. Can be difficult to find in U.S. nurseries. Sweet, good flavor. Good for fresh eating, preserves, drying.
Moongold (1960) Good Fair to 15 feet Sungold Late July
Medium size, sweet, juicy, freestone fruit. Earlier than Sungold.
Scout Very good Good to 20 feet Harcot, Moongold, Sungold, Westcot Early August
Best for canning, preserves, and drying.
Sungold (1960) Good Fair to 15 feet Moongold Early August
Small fruit has yellow skin with red blush. Yellow flesh is sweet and mild.
Westcot Very good Good to 20 feet Harcot, Moongold, Scout, Sungold Early August
A favorite among serious cold-climate apricot growers. Good for fresh eating. Harder to find than other cultivars.

1Average harvest date is for east central Minnesota. Harvest dates may shift depending on your area.

Getting started

Buying plants

Stone fruit trees can be purchased as dormant, bare root plants, or in pots. Bare root plants should be planted in early spring while still dormant (before visible growth starts), after the ground is workable but before the weather warms. Potted plants can be planted any time during the growing season, though spring is ideal, and may have leaves when planted.

Many local nurseries are now carrying plum, cherry, apricot, and even a few peach cultivars suitable to this region. Ordering fruit trees online is very common these days, and several large nurseries around the country carry many of the winter hardy cultivars. Order early to get the best selection. In fact, you can order during the winter and the nurseries will wait to ship the trees until the appropriate time in spring.


Bare root plants should be planted as soon as possible upon arrival. Do not allow the roots of bare root or potted plants to dry out at any time. Soak the roots of bare root plants in water for 2 to 4 hours before planting. Although potted plants may be held for several weeks before planting, they will require frequent water and fertilizer.

Choose the sunniest site available for planting, in a spot protected from harsh winds. Stone fruit trees require at least a half day of sun to produce fruit; the more sun they receive, the more fruit they have the potential to produce. Avoid planting stone fruit plants too close to the south side of buildings where heat that develops on sunny spring days will encourage them to bloom too early. Do not plant stone fruit trees where water stands after rain.

At planting time, dig a hole large enough to fit the roots without bending them. Bent roots are less likely to spread normally as they grow, causing anchorage problems and susceptibility to drought. If one root is very long it may be trimmed, but in general do not prune the roots. This might be obvious, but just to be perfectly clear, potted plants should be removed from the pot before planting. If the plant is root-bound or if larger roots circle the inside of the pot, make several vertical cuts through the roots with a sharp knife and spread them out. This will not harm the plant, rather it will encourage the roots to extend and grow out into the soil.

Do not add fertilizer nor heavily amend the soil from the hole at planting time as this can create a 'flower pot' effect, where the roots never leave the amended soil. When this happens, plants become root-bound with poor anchorage and low drought resistance. You may add compost or dampened, shredded peat moss, but make sure at least half the resulting mixture is original soil.


Video courtesy of Mike Parker, NCSU Extension.
Note: The methods used in the video apply to all stone fruit trees. Nematode testing, as mentioned in the video, is not required before planting stone fruit trees in Minnesota.

When planting, place the tree in the ground at the height at which it was grown in the nursery. The soil line is usually apparent. If it is not, place trees so that the graft union is 3 to 4 inches above the soil line. Once the plant is placed properly, fill the hole with soil and firm the soil with your foot while holding the tree in position. Water immediately. If the soil compacts after watering, add more soil until it is at the intended level.

Spread about 4 inches of organic mulch, such as wood chips or well-rotted compost, around the base of the plant. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rotting and rodent damage. Spread the mulch in a circle at least 4 feet in diameter. Grass and weeds should be kept at least 2 feet from the trunk throughout the life of the tree. For this reason, you should renew the mulch annually. Planting is also the perfect time to place a tree guard around the trunk. These can be found at most nurseries and garden centers. The tree guard should cover most of the length of the trunk, which will protect it from rodent damage and winter injury.

Jon Clements, Univ. of Massachusetts

These newly planted trees have been planted at the proper depth. You can see the graft union is about 4 inches above the soil line.

This young North Star cherry will benefit from the plastic spiral tree guard for several more years until it's bark thickens and can better defend itself from rodent damage and winter injury.


Regular watering is critical throughout the year of planting. During this first year, a young fruit tree requires 1-2 inches of water a week, either in the form of rainwater or irrigation. If rain is plentiful, you might not need to irrigate very often. However, during hot, dry periods trees should be given about 5 gallons of water once a week. Different soils and weather conditions will affect how much you'll need to water your tree. If you're unsure about whether to water, check the soil at a depth of 4-8 inches (being careful not to dig into the soil too close to the roots of the tree). If the soil feels dry or slightly damp, give the tree a good watering. Occasional, slow, deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeply into the soil. Avoid frequent, shallow watering because this will encourage roots to stay near the soil surface, leading to poor anchorage, susceptibility to drought, and other stresses. Do not wait for the leaves to wilt before watering. It is just as important not to overwater new trees. Overwatering can lead to root rot and can kill the tree. Remember, if you are watering your lawn near the tree, take this into account when determining the tree's water needs.

After the first year, regular rainfall should be sufficient for the tree. However, watering will be required during hot, dry periods. Use the test mentioned above to determine watering needs.


Young trees benefit from staking at planting time to help them grow straight and develop a strong root system. Either a wood or metal stake will work. It should be about the height of the tree or taller after it is pounded two feet into the ground. Use a wide piece of non-abrasive material to secure the tree to the stake. Avoid narrow fastenings such as wire or string, as these will cut into the bark. The stake can be removed after 3 or 4 years, once the tree is well-established.

Through the seasons

Follow this list of tasks to keep your stone fruit trees healthy and productive.

Things to do When to do them
Prune trees before growth begins, after coldest weather has passed March
Plant bare-root trees as soon as the soil can be worked April, May
If last year's growth was minimal, apply compost around base of tree April, May
Plant potted trees after threat of frost has passed May, June
Water trees as you do other trees in your yard, particularly during dry spells May through October
Cut to the ground any root suckers near the tree; they look like stout seedlings and have similar leaves to the tree June, July
Place netting over trees as fruit ripens to prevent bird damage June through August
Harvest June through August
Rake and compost fallen leaves and fruit October, November
Apply tree wrap to prevent winter injury October, November
Watch for deer and vole damage; put fencing around tree if needed November through March

Fertilizer and mulch

Once established, a stone fruit tree planted on a favorable site in properly prepared soil should thrive with minimal fertilization. Nitrogen is normally the only mineral nutrient that needs to be added on an annual basis and can be added using compost. After the first year, use the previous season's growth as a guide, and add compost in early spring if necessary. If the shoots of a young, non-bearing stone fruit tree grew 15 inches or more in length, you do not need to fertilize. For mature, bearing trees, the minimum shoot growth is 8 inches. If the previous year's growth falls below these amounts, then add compost. Never fertilize a tree exhibiting normal or vigorous growth. Too much fertilizer is more harmful than too little. If you fertilize the lawn surrounding a stone fruit tree, take this into account when calculating the amount to be applied to the tree.


For the first three to five years, grass and weeds should be removed from about a three foot radius around the tree. Grasses particularly can deplete soil moisture rapidly and will reduce tree growth. Applying a few inches of mulch around the base of a tree will help prevent weeds. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rodent damage and fungal growth.

Insects and other creatures

Significant insect pest damage is rare on stone fruits in home gardens, but these trees are occasionally subject to pests including apple maggot, caterpillars and plum curculio. Keep an eye on your trees so you notice any problems early on. If you see anything unusual like holes or scarring on fruit, deteriorating or dropped fruit, distorted or damaged leaves, there might be insect damage occurring.

See Pest Management for the Home Stone Fruit Orchard for information on insect pests and management.

Birds are the main pests of stone fruits in Minnesota. They feed on maturing stone fruits, pecking holes or eating entire fruits. This is especially true for cherries. The best protection is to net the entire plant, taking care to secure the netting both above and below the protected area.

Rodents can be a threat to stone fruit trees in winter, chewing the bark and the living tissue beneath it. Using tree guards on the trunk, enclosing the trunk in a wire-mesh cylinder and keeping mulch a few inches from the trunk will protect the tree from rodent damage.

Diseases and challenges

Disease pressure is relatively low on stone fruits in Minnesota, however occasional problems do arise. For complete information on identifying and managing diseases of stone fruit trees, see Pest Management for the Home Stone Fruit Orchard.


The goals of pruning and training are to maximize light penetration into the tree and to maintain healthy fruiting wood. At planting, if the tree has branches, choose four to six of them, starting about 18 to 24 inches above the ground and spaced as equally as possible around the tree, to form the first tier of scaffold branches. These branches should not all be at the same height on the trunk. Prune out all remaining branches.

If the newly planted tree does not have at least three strong branches suitable for the primary tier, remove all branches and prune the leader at a height of 30-40 inches from the ground. Once branches begin to sprout from the trunk, you can select scaffold branches and remove any unwanted branches while they are still small. This pruning may be done through mid-summer if necessary.

Fruit trees should be pruned on an annual basis in late winter-preferably after the coldest weather is past-before buds break and growth begins. Prune minimally, especially with young trees, as excessive pruning will delay or reduce fruiting and encourage too much leafy growth. Once the first set of scaffold branches has been selected, select a second set above it, with the new scaffold branches beginning about 12 inches above the top branch of the first.

In the second year and thereafter, prune in early spring, usually March or April in Minnesota. If you were able to select first-tier branches in the previous year, you may select four to six second-tier branches. These should begin about 18-20 inches above the first tier and should again be spaced as equally as possible around the trunk and at different heights from one another. Remove all other branches not belonging to the first or second tiers and prune out the leader.

General pruning guidelines

  • Remove diseased, broken, or dead branches.
  • Remove any downward-growing branches.
  • If two limbs are crossed, entangled, or otherwise competing, remove one of them completely at its base.
  • Remove any limb along the trunk that is getting bigger in diameter than the trunk.
  • Remove suckers coming up from the roots or low on the trunk.
  • Remove watersprouts, which are vigorous vertical branches.
  • Pruning cuts should be made close to the branch collar at the base of the limb. For larger limbs, first cut on the underside of the limb to avoid tearing the bark.
  • Remove large limbs first and start in the top of the tree.
  • Thinning cuts remove entire branches at the branch collar and are almost always recommended. Heading cuts remove only part of a branch and encourage unwanted vegetative growth just below the cut.

Open center pruning

Stone fruit trees are often pruned to an open center form, following their naturally spreading growth habit. This produces a vase-shaped tree, which provides good air circulation through the canopy of the tree and helps prevent brown rot and other fungal diseases that may occur in a canopy that is too dense. Additionally, this open form keeps the many fruits on a stone fruit tree within reach.

The illustration below shows the contrasts between open center (left) and central leader (right) method of pruning. You can see in the open center method, the center vertical stem is immediately pruned out upon planting. This encourages scaffold branches to grow, which will become the foundation of the open center tree. Central leader pruning is used for trees that have more of an upright growth habit (like many apples). Occasionally you'll find a stone fruit tree that has a naturally upright habit, in which case the central leader method might be the best choice.

Diagram showing three trees in stages of open center pruning

Figure is used with permission. Growing Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, and Plums in Wisconsin.
University of Wisconsin, Cooperative Extension.

Open center pruning.

Diagram showing three trees in stages of central leader pruning

Figure is used with permission. Growing Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, and Plums in Wisconsin.
University of Wisconsin, Cooperative Extension.

Central leader pruning.

Video courtesy of Mike Parker, NCSU Extension.
This video explains pruning peach trees to an 'open center' style. This method can be used for all other stone fruit trees.

Renovating an old tree

Pruning a mature tree that has been neglected for several years can be a challenge and will take a few years of pruning to make the tree productive again. Here are a few guidelines for renovating a neglected tree:

Harvest and storage

As stone fruits ripen, the flesh softens and the skin changes from green to purple, red, orange, or a combination of these colors. You may test for ripeness by giving the fruit a light squeeze. The flesh should yield to gentle thumb pressure. The best way to determine ripeness is to taste the fruit.

Picking fruit

To harvest without harming the fruit buds for next year's crop, twist the fruit slightly while pulling. Ripe fruit usually will detach from the stem with little effort. Handle fruit gently and avoid layering fruit too deeply to prevent bruising.

Storing fruit

Refrigerate stone fruits promptly after harvest in perforated plastic bags or loosely covered containers. Keep the refrigerator at a temperature of 32-40°F. Cherries will keep 3-5 days, while plums will keep 3-5 weeks when promptly refrigerated.

Winter protection

Stone fruit trees are susceptible to trunk cracking in winter, especially when the trees are young. Often this is caused by fluctuating temperatures as the winter sun warms the bark on very cold days. To prevent this, wrap the trunk with a paper or plastic trunk protector in late fall. The wrap should extend from the ground to just beyond the first scaffold branch base. The wrap can be removed when temperatures warm in spring.

Additional resources

Downloadable eBook

cover of book Growing Fruit in the Northern GardenGrowing Fruit in the Northern Garden
eBook for iPad, iPhone and Mac
University of Minnesota Department of Horticultural Science

Pruning and training

Fruit Production for the Home Gardener
Penn State University Extension
Fruit Growing Guides for Commercial and Home Growers
Cornell University
Growing Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, and Plums in Wisconsin
University of Wisconsin Extension

Pest and disease management

Pest Management for the Home Stone Fruit Orchard
University of Minnesota Extension
What's Wrong With My Plant?
University of Minnesota Extension
What Insect is This?
University of Minnesota Extension
Plant Disease Clinic
University of Minnesota


Revised 2015

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