Purpose of Showmanship

The purpose of showmanship is for 4-H members to develop skills and knowledge in dog show handling. Showmanship allows 4-H members to learn about breeds of dogs and general grooming responsibilities.

Purpose of Showmanship Competition

Showmanship competition provides 4-H members with a meaningful experience where they can practice and improve their handling and sportsmanship skills. Showmanship gives each 4-H member the opportunity to present themselves and their dog to the best of their ability. This is exemplified by a handler working as a team with his or her dog, so the dog is stacked, alert, and under control, while at the same time the 4-H’er appears confident and in control. It is important to remember at all times that the 4-H showmanship ring is not the AKC showmanship ring.

Showmanship will be evaluated on the following five basic areas:

1. proper breed presentation
2. ring procedure
3. knowledge
4. grooming of dog
5. 4-H’ers appearance and conduct

Breed Eligibility

Any dog may be shown in 4-H showmanship, regardless of breed or cross. Conformation of the dog is not evaluated in showmanship. A mixed breed dog should be shown by the breed standard it most closely resembles, even if it is not a cross of that breed.

Classes

There are two showmanship classes:

• Novice: For 4-H members who have never earned a blue ribbon at the county or state show level.
• Open: For 4-H members who have earned a blue ribbon at the county or state show level in Novice. Because showmanship is based on the 4-H’ers ability, they may not drop back to novice if they use a new dog for showmanship.

In 4-H showmanship, members advance from novice to open. Most counties will want to only have a novice showmanship class and an open showmanship class. However, some counties may choose to decide to have the novice and open classes broken down into grade level groups. This decision should be made in partnership with the county project leaders and extension staff.

Ribbons and Awards

Every exhibitor who completes a class shall receive a ribbon, except those exhibitors excused or disqualified. The ribbons will be blue, red, or white. A champion and reserve champion ribbon may be given to the top handlers in each class. There shall be no top handler or top showman award given at any 4-H event (the novice champion and the open champion should never be brought back in to compete against each other).

Leads

There are several types of showmanship leads. They come in many styles, sizes, weights, and colors. Some include:

• loop lead – this type has a loop at the end that slips over the dogs head. Caution should be used when showing with this lead, so that it does not slip off the dog’s head.
• martingale – this type has an additional loop at the end of the first loop and the dog’s head is placed between the two loops. This allows the handler to have more control with the dog.
• slip collar with a short leash/lead – this type is like those sometimes used in obedience but with a lead of four feet or less. The size of links should be appropriately matched to the size of the dog. It is appropriate for beginning and/or large and/or strong dogs to be shown with a slip collar.

A showmanship lead is preferred, but no deduction shall be made for obedience leashes. The size/weight of the lead should be appropriate for the size and/or breed of the dog. Most large dogs should not be shown on lightweight leads.

Regardless of which lead is used, the handler must be in control of the dog and the lead shall be held and used neatly. Deductions shall be made for leads hanging down or flapping about the dog. The handler’s lead should be ready at all times and deductions shall be made for time spent wrapping leads and getting ready to move out.

In the 4-H showmanship ring, the lead should never be removed when presenting the dog to the judge.

Lead held correctly.

Lead held incorrectly.

 

Lead placed correctly on dog.

Lead place incorrectly on dog.

Bait

In the 4-H showmanship ring, baiting of dogs with food is allowed. If a 4-H’er uses bait, it must be used discretely, with no deliberate baiting near other dogs. If the bait is dropped in the ring and not immediately picked up OR is used to deliberately distract other dogs, the 4 H’er will automatically receive a white ribbon. Toys of any kind are not allowed in the 4-H showmanship ring.

The purpose of baiting is to animate your dog when stacking the dog in the line up or during individual presentation to the judge. Your dog shows animation and/or expression by either wagging the tail or perking up the ears. Bait is also used to free stack your dog and keep his attention. (For a description of “free stack” look under the heading titled “stacking”.)

Baiting Guidelines for 4-H'ers:

1. 1. Baiting is to be done discreetly, without a lot of fanfare and flare. Never stretch your arm out when holding the bait so that you are catching any other dog's attention. You need to be respectful of the other 4-H’ers in the ring.
2. The size of the food bait pieces should be appropriate for the size of your dog. Semi-moist food chunks work best because they can be easily handled and quickly broken off without too much mess. Dry/hard bones or food cannot quickly be broken into smaller pieces. Bait should not be messy or gooey.
3. “Mouth bait” (like hot dogs) that the 4-H’er actually keeps in their mouth is not permitted in the 4-H ring. This is to prevent any accidental choking. While this type of bait certainly has its merits, it is not appropriate in 4-H for safety reasons.
4. Keep your bait in a bait bag or in your skirt, pants, or jacket pocket until you are ready to use it.
5. Do not take the bait out of your pocket or bait bag until you are in the ring and the judge has placed you in the order he/she wants you to be in. If you are free stacking your dog, you will need the bait to stack. If you are hand stacking your dog, you will not need the bait until after the dog has been stacked for animation, as the judge is looking the group over.
6. Be sure to put the bait in your bait bag or pocket before gaiting around the ring in a group. Never, ever leave the bait in your hand when not using it.
7. Put your bait away in your bait bag or pocket right before the judge approaches for the individual examination of your dog.
8. When you are doing an individual gaiting pattern, keep your bait in your pocket or bait bag. As you are completing the pattern and returning to the judge, you may take the bait out to present the dog to the judge.
9. Bait should be held directly in front of your dog. At what height/level to hold the bait depends on the size of the dog and experience of the handler. Again, you want to think of the overall picture you are creating for the judge.
1. If you bait a big dog holding the bait too high, it will throw the balance of the dog totally off – big dogs have a habit of reaching for something high.
2. If you bait a small dog too low they do not respond.
10. Never, ever throw the bait when you are in the 4-H showmanship ring. Never toss the bait in your hand, expecting to catch it while you are trying to get your dog’s attention. (You may not catch the bait.) This is just common courtesy and respect to other dogs and 4-H’ers in the ring.

Clothing

The 4-H’er should be suitably dressed for the occasion wearing clothing which will not hinder or detract from the presentation of the dog. The 4-H’er shall be neat and clean.

All clothing should be appropriate for moving when handling a dog. Choose attire that allows free movement of your arms and legs. No special consideration shall be given to a handler because of the color of clothing. Skirts/dresses and shorts that are extremely short are not appropriate. Avoid wearing jewelry that makes noise or interferes with handling. Shoes should be flat and easy to walk in. Low-heeled, rubber-soled shoes are best since they provided good traction. High-heels and flip-flops are not appropriate. No deduction shall be made for wearing tennis shoes.

Ring Procedure

Individual judges vary their judging routine and the following components may be mixed in any order. Basic procedure includes:

1. gaiting
1. group
2. individual
2. stacking (posing) the dog
3. individual examination of dog

Gaiting

• Make your gaiting smooth, straight, and the correct speed. When in motion, your dog should move naturally and freely. Avoid traveling ahead of or behind your dog.
• Always keep your show lead in the hand that is beside the dog. Do not keep the lead too tight or too loose for your breed or individual dog. The lead should never be so tight as to pull the dog’s feet off the ground.
• Avoid unnecessary motions or noises that detract from the gaiting procedure. Use the entire ring unless the judge tells you to do otherwise. The mat is for the dog to gait on without slipping. The dog should be centered on the mat while gaiting with the 4-H’er off to the side (if the mat is wide enough, the 4-H’er should still be on the mat, too.)
• The dog is to be kept between the judge and 4-H’er at all times. It is a major fault if the 4-H’er is between the judge and the dog for a significant amount of time (examples: an entire side of the ring, entire pattern, all the way around the ring). It is a minor fault if the 4-H’er is between the judge and the dog for a minimal amount of time and the 4-H’er corrects the mistake.
• It is very important for the 4-H’er to have economy of motion and minimize hand switching as much as possible.

Group Gaiting

Correct Group Gaiting.

Normally, 4-H’ers will enter the ring in catalog order (numerical/armband order). Then the judge may choose to rearrange the dogs according to size and/or speed.

During group gaiting, the 4-H’er and dog will always move counter-clockwise around the ring. Under no circumstances may a judge direct the group to move clockwise around the ring. Gaiting is usually done around the perimeter of the ring with dogs on the left side of the handler. Passing should never be done except at the judge’s request.

It is important that handlers leave space between themselves and the dogs in front (for safety and to give the judge the best view of their dog). Crowding other dogs is a major fault.

During group gaiting, when the faster dogs are at the front of the line and “catch up” to the smaller dogs at the end of the line, it is appropriate for the 4-H’er to slow down the gait of his/her dog. The 4-H’er with the faster/larger dog should continue gaiting at a slower speed, even if it is not the proper speed for his/her breed.

Individual Gaiting

During individual gaiting, the 4-H’er should move the dog at the correct speed for its breed. Depending on the breed, dogs will be shown at a walk, trot, or run. This means that the dog is walking, trotting, or running, but the dog is always under control. The 4 H’er needs to move at a speed that will match the dog’s appropriate gait. Trotting is when one front leg and the opposite rear leg move forward at the same time. Under no circumstances, should a dog be shown at a pace. Pacing is when the legs on the same side of the dog move forward at the same time. Pacing is a major fault.

The 4-H’er will be asked to perform one or more of the following patterns:

1. Down and Back
2. Triangle pattern
3. “L” pattern
4. “T” pattern

Down and Back – The 4-H’er and dog will be asked to gait across the ring either on the diagonal or from end to end. At the opposite end of the ring, the 4 H’er has the option to do (1) an about turn or (2) to switch hands with the lead.

1. If the 4 H’er does an about turn, the dog stays on the same side (left or right) and goes around the outside of the handler.
2. If the 4-H’er switches hands with the lead, the 4 H’er and dog turn into/toward each other and proceed to the other end of the ring. The dog ends up on the opposite side of the 4-H’er from where it originally started (left to right or right to left).

Executing a U-turn (where the 4-H’er goes around the dog) is a major fault.

1. The Down and Back with an about-turn.	2. The Down and Back with a hand switch.

"Triangle" Pattern – This pattern is performed in the shape of a right triangle. The 4 H’er and dog will proceed in a straight line away from the judge to the opposite end of the ring. At the corner make a left turn and proceed all the way to the next corner. Then one of three turns may be made before proceeding up the diagonal and back to the judge. Under no circumstances may a judge direct a 4-H’er to do a reverse triangle where the 4-H’er would go down the diagonal first.

1. The easiest option is to simply make a left turn onto the diagonal. The 4 H'er does not switch hands with the lead and the dog stays on the 4 H'ers left side. Triangle with simple turn at the corner.

2. The second option is to make a circle in the corner with the dog always remaining on the 4-H’ers left side. The 4-H’er does not switch hands with the lead Triangle with a circle at the corner.

3. The third option is for the 4-H’er to switch hands with the lead and cross the dog over in front of him/her. The dog completes a circle as the 4-H’er and dog turn into/toward each other and proceed up the diagonal with the dog on the 4-H’ers right side. Triangle where 4-H’er switches hands with the lead.

"L" Pattern – This pattern is performed in the shape of an uppercase letter “L”. The 4-H’er and dog will proceed in a straight line away from the judge to the opposite end of the ring. At the corner make a left turn and proceed all the way to the next corner. The 4-H’er then switches hands with the lead. The 4 H’er and dog turn into/toward each other and proceed back to the other end of the ring. At this corner, the 4-H’er has three options:

1. The easiest option is to simply make a right turn and proceed back to the judge. The 4 H’er does not switch hands with the lead and the dog stays on the 4 H’ers right side. The “L” pattern with a simple right turn.

2. The second option is to make a circle in the corner with the dog always remaining on the 4-H’ers right side. The 4-H’er does not switch hands with the lead. The “L” pattern with a circle.

3. The third option is for the 4-H’er to switch hands with the lead and cross the dog over in front of him/her. The dog completes a circle as the 4-H’er and dog turn into/toward each other and proceed back to the judge with the dog on the 4-H’ers left side. The “L” pattern where the 4-H’er switches hands with the lead.

"T" Pattern – This pattern is performed in the shape of an uppercase letter “T”. The judge will indicate where to start the “T” pattern. The 4-H’er and dog will proceed in a straight line away from the judge to the opposite end of the ring. The 4 H’er should turn to which ever side the dog is on and proceed to the corner of the ring. The 4-H’er then switches hands with the lead. The 4 H’er and dog turn into/toward each other and proceed to the other end of the ring. At the other end, the 4-H’er again switches hands with the lead. The 4 H’er and dog again turn into/toward each other and proceed back to the center of the ring. The 4-H’er then turns back toward the judge and proceeds in a straight line back to the judge.

The “T” pattern.

Courtesy Turn (used at the start of the individual gaiting pattern)
A courtesy turn is optional in 4-H, but is recommended to get the dog moving from its stacked position. To do a courtesy turn, the 4-H’er will use a right hand turn before beginning the individual pattern designated by the judge. The courtesy turn should be executed quickly and smoothly and there should not be any break in the gaiting pattern. At this point it is acceptable for the 4-H’er to briefly pass between his/her dog and the judge.

A correct courtesy turn.

As the courtesy turn is completed the 4-H’er continues directly into the designated pattern (4-H’ers should not stop in between). If the courtesy turn cannot be executed smoothly, it should not be done because it then detracts from the overall teamwork.

Switching Hands
It may be necessary in some patterns to switch the lead from one hand to the other to ensure the dog is always between the judge and the 4-H’er. These changes should be done gracefully at the corners of the patterns only as necessary to be sure the judge has an unobstructed view of the dog.

Completion of the Pattern
It is customary for the 4-H’er to stop a few steps back from the judge. Some judges will use a hand signal to designate when to stop, others may not. If a judge does not signal, be sure to stop two to three feet from the judge. Most breeds should stop and stand with all four feet square. The dog should walk into the stack squarely, without the 4-H’er moving the dog’s feet by hand. If 4-H’ers use their hands to stack their dog upon the completion of an individual pattern it is considered a major fault.

Stacking
Stacking dogs should be done when the class stops gaiting around the ring. It should be maintained while the judge is doing individual examinations of other dogs in the class. The exception would be that occasionally the judge may give directions to relax your dog due to large class size, etc. This means that it is ok for the dog to sit or lie down; however, the 4-H’er must remain attentive to both the judge and his/her dog’s needs. (The 4-H’er may not relax.)

In the 4-H showmanship ring, handlers whose breed of dog is customarily shown in the AKC ring on a table shall stack their dog on the floor.

When stacking the dog, it is acceptable for the 4-H’er to either kneel on one or both knees or stand depending on individual preference and comfort level. Minor deductions shall be made for any 4-H’er who is not able to move gracefully and quickly around the dog. Major deductions shall be made for crawling on both knees.

4-H’ers may lift from underneath the chest or mandible and hips to stack their dog

• 4-H’ers shall never use the tail to stack their dog (as is done with some breeds in the AKC ring). It is considered a major fault to use the tail to stack a dog.
• 4 H’ers shall never lift all four feet of the dog off the floor at the same time. It is considered a major fault to lift all four feet of the dog off the floor at the same time

Free stacking is walking your dog into the proper stack and keeping his attention. The breeds that are stacked square are the easiest to work with and look the best free stacked.

As the judge moves to various locations in the ring, it is important that the 4-H’er keep the dog between himself/herself and the judge. The 4-H’er should not at any time block the view of the dog from the judge (hands on tail, hands over muzzle, etc.). It is acceptable for the 4-H’er to stack his/her dog by reaching over the dog to position the feet furthest from him/her.

For safety reasons, under no circumstances may a judge walk between the ring gating and the “line up” of 4-H’ers. If a judge wants to observe the group switching sides, they should move the “line up” to the diagonal.

It is each 4-H’ers responsibility to find out how their breed is customarily stacked. For specific information on stacking, see the “Proper Breed Presentation” section of this book. While stacking the dog, handlers will be evaluated on the correct stack for the breed. All breeds are stacked with their front feet positioned evenly with each other.

It is each 4-H’ers responsibility to leave sufficient space between them and the dog in front of them. Sufficient space means there is enough room for the judge to walk between the dogs without touching either dog or feeling crowded.

4-H’ers should work to develop proficiency in speed and ease of stacking. To begin learning this process, 4-H’ers should begin practicing walking their dog into a stack where the dog will automatically place its front feet squarely.

The judge may request that 4-H’ers move to a different location in the ring or restack their dog facing another direction. When this occurs, it is important to be able to turn the dog gracefully and to re-stack the dog quickly.

Individual Examination of the Dog
Individual examinations of each dog will be conducted, usually from the group stack. The judge may look at the dog from a few steps back and then move forward to examine the dog. While the judge is doing this, the 4-H’er should be attentive to the judge while maintaining full control over the dog.

Some judges may ask the 4-H’er to show the bite (teeth) of the dog at this time. The 4 H’er should show the front teeth for all breeds. The purpose of showing the bite in the 4-H ring is to check for cleanliness. 4-H’ers whose breed would typically require showing side teeth in the AKC ring are not required to do so in the 4-H ring. The 4-H’er should pull the dog’s lips back so the judge has a clear view of the dog’s front teeth with the dog’s mouth closed. 4-H’ers should be careful not to get hands or head in the way of the judge’s view of the bite.

As the judge moves, the 4-H’er should move around the dog, so the dog stays between the handler and the judge, while keeping the dog under control.

Knowledge

In 4-H, questions will be asked by the judge. Questions may only be asked about information contained in the current “AKC Complete Dog Book” and the current year’s Dog Bowl references. 4-H’ers should be prepared to answer questions about general dog knowledge, specific questions about their dog, and about their breed of dog. If the dog is a mixed breed, the 4-H’er should answer questions based on the breed standard it most closely resembles, even if it is not a cross of that breed. 4-H’ers shall not be expected to answer questions about any breed other than their own.

Basic questions every 4-H’er should know how to answer:

1. How do you care for your dog?
2. How often do you groom your dog?
3. What does AKC stand for?
4. What breed are you showing your dog as?
5. To what AKC group does your breed belong?
6. In what country did your breed originate?
7. For what purpose was your breed developed?
8. What vaccinations are required for your dog to participate in 4-H dog shows?
9. Name one internal parasite and one external parasite.
10. The 4-H’er should also know the following dog parts:

1. nose 2. flews 3. eye 4. ear 5. shoulder 6. brisket 7. pastern 8. elbow 9. tuckup 10. stifle 11. toes 12. hock 13. feathers (not on all breeds) 14. tail 15. croup16. loin 17. back 18. withers 19. neck 20. occiput 21. skull 22. stop 23. muzzle

Grooming of Dog

In showmanship dogs are required to be well-groomed. 4-H’ers are allowed assistance from a professional groomer, but are strongly encouraged to learn these skills as they advance in experience. Excessive grooming of the dog in the ring to gain the judge’s attention will be considered a minor fault. Use of a brush or comb to reposition messy hair is acceptable but should be done very discreetly.

• coat: The dog’s coat must be clean, not scaly, free of mats, and free of loose hair. It is a major fault if a dog has mats or external parasites.
• ears: The dog’s ears should be free of dirt, parasites, and excessive hair.
• eyes: The dog’s eyes should be clean and free of matter.
• toenails: The dog’s toenails should be trimmed. It is a major fault if the dog’s toenails are excessively long.

Toenail trimmed correctly.

Any dog with hair over its eyes that interferes with its vision may have the hair tied back with up to four rubber bands or plain, straight, rectangular-shaped barrettes that have a solid exterior color. No ribbons or bows are allowed.

The 4-H’ers Handling Skills

4-H’ers should appear prepared, confident, and attentive. They should be courteous to both the judge and fellow exhibitors. 4-H’ers are expected to handle their dogs without distracting other 4-H’ers or their dogs. A 4-H’er who crowds or disturbs other dogs must be faulted.

4-H’ers should be aware that judges will excuse any dog that: (1) is out of control, (2) injured (healed injuries that do not cause the dog pain are excluded), or (3) shows aggression toward other dogs or people. If there is any question about an injury and the ability of a dog to shown, the 4-H’er should plan ahead and provide the show committee and the judge with a document from a licensed, practicing veterinarian that states that it is okay for the dog to be shown. 4 H’ers who exhibit impatience or mistreatment of their dogs will be faulted.

Posture

• While gaiting, keep your back straight, your head up, and watch where you are going.
• While stacking, if you choose to kneel try to keep your body straight and use your legs to raise and lower yourself to your dog’s level. When showing large breeds, bend at the waist only when necessary and as quickly and smoothly as possible.

Smoothness

• In the ring you should be calm, cool, and collected. Remember not to rush.
• Your actions should be smooth, controlled, and purposeful. Jumpy and jerky actions make you appear nervous and unsure.

Attentiveness

• Look confident. Remember to smile and enjoy what you doing.
• It is not appropriate to talk to other exhibitors or spectators.
• Your attention should always be focused on what is happening in your ring, including your dog, the judge, and other exhibitors.
• Know where the judge is located and always keep your dog between you and the judge.
• While gaiting, it is appropriate to make occasional eye contact with the judge. Eye contact should be subtle and natural. It should not be forced nor look “fake”.
• It is important to listen to the judge’s instructions. If you are unsure of an instruction, it is appropriate to ask the judge for clarification.

Sportsmanship

• Think positively as you enter the ring.
• However you place, be humble and gracious. It is appropriate to sincerely congratulate the class winners. In a like fashion, if you fortunate enough to win a class accept congratulations from others graciously.
• If the judge gives you feedback, listen attentively and thank him or her.
• It is courteous to express your appreciation to those who are involved with the show including show committee members, 4-H staff and volunteers, judges, award donors, etc.

While competing, 4-H’ers should remember that the judge will consider the following questions:

1. Is the dog responsive to the 4-H’er? Do they work as a team?
2. Does the dog appear stacked or interested at all times?
3. Is the dog under control?
4. Is the dog gaited correctly to the best of its ability?
5. Do both the dog and 4-H’er appear relaxed?
6. Is the dog presented with an economy of motion that gives the appearance of ease and minimum effort used to present the dog?

Judging of Showmanship Competition

• Judges should evaluate the general conduct of the 4-H members in the showmanship ring.
• When judging 4-H showmanship classes, judges shall utilize patterns and procedures outlined in these Minnesota 4-H Dog Showmanship Rules and Guidelines.
• Each judge may vary their routine from class to class. Within a class, judges must be consistent in the initial examination of each 4-H’er, using the same individual gaiting patterns, the same procedural requests, and allowing approximately the same amount of time for each 4-H’er. More challenging variations may be used as tie-breakers, call-backs, or the final judging of a class.
• Under no circumstances should a 4-H judge ever ask two 4-H’ers to complete the down and back pattern at the same time, side-by-side.
• The 4-H judge shall be inside the ring at all times when judging the 4-H’ers. At no time shall the judge ask the 4-H’ers to perform any gaiting patterns with the judge on the outside of the ring.
• A main principal of 4-H Showmanship is to learn the spirit of competition. Judges shall be aware of sportsmanship in the ring and serious deductions shall be made for deliberate rudeness or unsportsmanlike conduct. Winning is important but secondary to the development of sportsmanship during competition. Judges who reward unsportsmanlike conduct or action compromise the very premise of 4-H!

Proper Breed Presentation

The American Kennel Club (AKC) has categorized dog breeds into seven groups. The seven groups are: (1) Sporting, (2) Hound, (3) Working, (4) Terrier, (5) Toy, (6) Non-Sporting, and (7) Herding.

The AKC has established a “Miscellaneous Class” for breeds applying for AKC recognition, but not yet approved. This “Miscellaneous Class” is only that – a class – and NOT a group.

If a breed is not recognized by the AKC, 4-H’ers should be familiar with the breed standards as established by the breed’s recognized parent club. In the showmanship ring when the judge asks the 4-H’er about his/her breed, 4-H’ers should explain to the judge that their breed is not recognized by the AKC and then share information about the breed club.

Remember, a mixed breed dog should be shown by the breed standard it most closely resembles, even if it is not a cross of that breed.

When the judge asks a 4-H’er what breed he/she is showing the dog as, the 4-H’er should reply with the breed’s proper name. For example: the 4-H’er should say “Shetland Sheepdog” rather than “Sheltie”.

The following pages contain information about how to properly present each AKC recognized breed as if it were being shown in the AKC breed ring. While the conformation of the dog is never evaluated in 4-H, this information is provided so that 4-H’ers can learn how to correctly stack and gait their dog.

The following guidelines apply to all breeds:

• If the tail of the breed being shown is supposed to be up, and stays up, it is better if the handler leaves it alone.
• The Minnesota 4-H Dog Project recognizes that many dogs in 4-H competition may not measure up to breed standards, especially around tail carriage. Many dogs may have low tail sets and some high tail sets, which makes it fairly difficult to make the tail “an extension of the topline”. In those cases, 4-H’ers should present the tail to the best of their ability, but not “crank” the tail over the dog’s back.
• In all breeds, when the stacking guidelines mention that the rear legs should be stretched out, it is important to consider the dog’s structure. If a dog is not structurally able to stretch out it’s rear legs, the 4-H’er should do the best he/she can to present the best overall picture.
• In all breeds, when the gaiting guidelines mention gaiting speed, dogs will be shown at a walk, trot, or run. This means that the dog is walking, trotting, or running, but the dog is always under control. The 4-H’er needs to move at a speed that will match the dog’s appropriate gait.
• There is no set speed to gait any breed, it is at the speed the dogs look best.
• When the gaiting speed guidelines mention running, it is important that the 4-H’er has the dog are under control at all times. If this is not possible, the 4-H’er should choose a slower speed until he/she becomes more proficient at running with his/her dog.

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The breeds that have been listed are current with the AKC as March 14, 2004.

Sporting Group

The dogs in the Sporting Group work the hunting field to point, flush, or retrieve game. Most of these breeds are normally presented to give the impression of being alert, athletic dogs anxious for the hunt.

Tail Presentation:
Please note: When it mentions that the tail is a continuation or an elongation of the topline, the tail should be naturally straight out (sometimes that happens only when moving). If that is the case, during presentation it should be held.

• American Water Spaniel: The tail is moderate in length and has a curved rocker fashion. If the tail is held, make sure it is held slightly above or below the level of the back. If it is not necessary to hold the tail, the 4-H’er should not.
• Brittany: The tail is an extension of the spine at about the same level. The Brittany is typically tailless to about 4" docked or natural. If the Brittany is tailless, there is nothing to hold. If it is docked, it is the 4-H’ers choice whether or not to hold.
• Chesapeake Bay Retriever: The tail is long and hangs between the back legs. The 4 H’er does not touch the tail.
• Clumber Spaniel: The tail is docked and parallel to the ground. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Cocker Spaniel: The tail is docked and the 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold. If held, the tail should be tilted upward but not straight up.
• Curly-Coated Retriever: The tail is straight or fairly straight, never over the back. The 4-H’er does not touch the tail.
• German Shorthaired Pointer: The tail is docked. The tail hangs down when the dog is quiet and is horizontal when the dog is walking or moving. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• English Cocker Spaniel: The tail is docked and the 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold. If held, the tail should be tilted upward but not straight up.
• English Setter: The tail is straight and level with the back. If the tail is held, make sure it is level with the top line. It can be held about half way from the tip of the tail with the hand on top of or underneath the tail. It can also be held closer to the tip with the hand on top of or underneath the tail.
• English Springer Spaniel: The tail is docked and the 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold it. The tail is carried horizontally. If holding the tail, make certain it is in the horizontal position, not upward.
• Field Spaniel: The tail is low set and in line with the croup. Some Field Spaniels have docked tails, although natural tails are also allowed. If the 4-H’er chooses to hold the tail, make certain it is not pushed upwardly.
• Flat-Coated Retriever: The tail is long and fairly straight without curl, as an extension of the top line. If the tail is not straight out when stacking, the 4-H’er should hold the tail.
• German Wirehaired Pointer: The tail is docked. The tail hangs down when the dog is quiet and is horizontal when the dog is walking or moving. The 4 H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Golden Retriever: The tail is long and "feathered". It is level or has some moderate upward curve, but never over the back or between the legs. The 4-H’er should hold the tail out so the feathering is displayed. It can be held about half way from the tip of the tail with the hand on top of or underneath the tail. It can also be held closer to the tip with the hand on top of or underneath the tail.
• Gordon Setter: The tail is horizontal, or nearly so. If the tail is held, make sure it is about even with the top line. It can be held about half way from the tip of the tail with the hand on top of or underneath the tail. It can also be held closer to the tip with the hand on top of or underneath the tail.
• Irish Setter: When the tail is held, it should be about even with the top line. The 4-H’er should hold the tail out so the feathering is displayed. It can be held about half way from the tip of the tail with the hand on top of or underneath the tail. It can also be held closer to the tip with the hand on top of or underneath the tail.
• Irish Water Spaniel: The "rat tail" is a characteristic of the breed. The 4-H’er does not touch the tail, but rather should let it be natural.
• Labrador Retriever: The tail is a distinguishing feature of the breed. The tail should follow the top line when stacked or in motion. There should be a flowing line from the top of the head to the tip of the tail. If the dog's tail is not in this position when stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail straight out and even with the top line to create the flowing line from the top of the head to the tip of the tail.
• Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever: The tail is long and should hang naturally. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Pointer: The tail is long and tapers to a point. The tail has no curl and is never between the legs. The Pointer's tail is almost straight out. It is the 4 H’ers choice to hold or not to hold. With the long, slim, tapering tail it looks nice to hold the tail at the very tip.
• Spinone Italiano: The tail is horizontal or down, flicking from side to side when moving is preferred. The tail is docked so the 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold, but should make sure if it is held that it is horizontal. The 4-H’er should not push the tail upwardly.
• Sussex Spaniel: The tail is docked and low set, never above the level of the back. It should be held straight out, making sure it is not pushed above level of back.
• Vizsla: The tail is docked and at or near the horizontal line. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail. If held, make sure it is held horizontally.
• Weimaraner: The tail is docked. At maturity the tail will measure about 6 inches. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail, and those held are tilted upwardly a bit. If the tail is in the proper position while stacked, it need not be held.
• Welsh Springer Spaniel: The tail is docked and horizontal. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold it. If holding the tail, make certain it is in the horizontal position, not upward.
• Wirehaired Pointing Griffon: The tail is docked and the 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold it. However, if it is held, be sure it is even with the topline. Do not push upward.

Stacking:
Almost all of the Sporting Group is stacked with the rear legs stretched out (see below for exceptions).

• Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever: The dog should be stacked very squarely.

Gaiting Speed:
All of the sporting group is gaited with the 4-H’er running (a nice smooth run - not a fast "get ahead of everyone" speed) except:

• Clumber Spaniel: The gait should be a trot.
• Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever: The gait should be a fast walk.

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Hound Group

The dogs of the Hound Group work in packs trailing game. There are two types of hounds – those that trail by a strongly developed sense of smell, known as “scent hounds,” and those that chase down game using fast speeds and good eyesight, known as “sight hounds.” There is a massive difference in size from the largest to the smallest breed within this group, ranging from 12 to 150 pounds.

Sight Hounds Afghan Hound Basenji Borzoi Greyhound Ibizan Hound Irish Wolfhound Pharaoh Hound Saluki Scottish Deerhound Whippet

Scent Hounds American Foxhound Basset Hound Beagle Black and Tan Coonhound Bloodhound Dachshund English Foxhound Harrier Norwegian Elkhound Otterhound Petit Basset Griffon Vendéen Rhodesian Ridgeback

Sight hounds are normally presented to look sleek and graceful. The Whippet, Basenji and Ibizan Hound are encouraged to have their ears pricked during stacking. Scent hounds are normally presented to look alert and athletic.

Tail Presentation:

• Afghan Hound: The tail is long and in a ring or curve on the end and is never curled over the back or resting on the back. It actually “sticks up in the air”. If the tail is in place when stacking, the 4-H’er does not need to hold it.
• American Foxhound: The tail is long. When stacking the dog, tail should be held about 3” below the tip. Hold in an upward position with a slight curve.
• Basenji: The tail bends forward and lies well curled over to either side. As long as the tail is curled and in place, the 4-H’er should leave it alone.
• Basset Hound: The tail is long and held upward with a slight curve in the tail. If the tail is not in place, the 4-H’er should hold it.
• Beagle (13” and 15”): The tail is long, and not carried forward over the back. The tail has a slight curve and should be held up.
• Black and Tan Coonhound: The tail is long. When stacking, the tail should be held slightly forward, with the flat side of the 4-H’ers hand holding the tail.
• Bloodhound: The tail is long and curved ever so slightly. The 4-H’er should hold the tail about 3 inches below the tip.
• Borzoi: The long tail hangs naturally between the rear legs. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Dachshund:
  • longhaired: The 4-H’er should hold the tail almost straight out, with his/her hand grasping the top of the tail.
  • smooth: The tail is long and should be held straight out when stacking the dog.
  • wirehaired: The 4-H’er should hold the tail almost straight out. The 4-H’ers hand should grasp the tail about halfway, holding his/her hand under the tail.
• English Foxhound: The tail is long. When stacking the dog, tail should be held about 3” below the tip. The 4-H’er should hold it in an upward position with a slight curve.
• Greyhound: The tail should fall naturally between rear legs. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Harrier: The tail is long. When stacking the dog, tail should be held about 3” below the tip. The 4-H’er should hold the tail in an upward position with a slight curve.
• Ibizan Hound: The tail will fall naturally between the rear legs, with the tip curling upward under the tuckup. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Irish Wolfhound: The tail should fall naturally between rear legs. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Norwegian Elkhound: The tail is tightly curled over the back. The 4-H’er should not trim the tail, but rather leave it natural. If the tail is in place, leave it alone. If not in place, it may be held.
• Otterhound: The long tail should straight up with a slight curve, but not over the back. When the dog is at rest it may droop. If it is in place while stacking, leave it alone. If not in place, it should be held.
• Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen: The tail has a slight curve. The 4-H’er should hold the tip of the tail when stacking.
• Pharaoh Hound: The tail should not be tucked between the legs. The tail is fairly thick at the base and tapers whip-like, reaching below the point of hock when in rest. The tail should be curved when in action. Leave it hang naturally and the 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Rhodesian Ridgeback: The tail should hang naturally and the 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Saluki: The tail should hang naturally and the 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Scottish Deerhound: The tail should hang naturally and the 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Whippet: The tail should hang naturally and the 4-H’er does not touch it.

Stacking:
The hound group is stacked with the rear legs moderately stretched out.

Gaiting Speed:
Most of the hound group is gaited running. This is not a “get ahead of everyone” type of run, but rather a smooth, easy run. The following are exceptions:

• Basenji: The gait should be a brisk, fast walk or slow run.
• Basset Hound: The gait should be a regular walk (not real slow).
• Beagle: The gait should be walking (a little faster than average or a slow run).
• Dachshund: The gait should be an average speed walk.

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Working Group

The dogs of the Working group were developed for a variety of tasks – they are the dogs that work for humans pulling loads, protecting people and livestock, rescuing people, etc. These dogs are large, intelligent, and protective of their owners.

Because of the wide variety of body styles and types within the working group, there are several distinct “looks” that a handler may want to achieve. The sled dog breeds are to have pricked ears. The breeds with cropped ears are to appear alert, so they are shown with pricked ears. The large bodied breeds are shown with relaxed ears.

Tail Presentation:

• Akita: The long tail curls in a double curl or single curl over the back. It is common for the Akita’s tail to drop down when they are bored or tired, but should come up over the back when moving. Hand may or may not be placed on tail, or it may be left alone.
• Alaskan Malamute: The tail is long and lays over the back. The 4-H’er may or may not place hand on the tail.
• Anatolian Shepherd: The moderately long tail should hang naturally. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Bernese Mountain Dog: The long tail should hang down naturally. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Black Russian Terrier: The tail is docked and erect. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Boxer: The tail is short and docked. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Bullmastiff: The long tail is rather curled up on the end. The 4-H’er should leave it hang naturally and not touch it.
• Doberman Pinscher: The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• German Pinscher: The tail is docked tail and held erect. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Giant Schnauzer: The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Great Dane: The long tail hugs the body and hangs naturally between the rear legs. The 4 H’er does not touch it.
• Great Pyrenees: The long tail should hang naturally. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Greater Swiss Mountain Dog: The long tail sticks out with a curl in the end of it. The 4 H’er does not touch it.
• Komondor: The long tail should hang naturally. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Kuvasz: The long tail hangs naturally between the rear legs. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Mastiff: The long tail hangs naturally between the rear legs. The 4-H’er does not touch it
• Neopolitan Mastiff: The tail is long and the 4-H’er should let it hang naturally. The 4-H’er should not touch the tail.
• Newfoundland: The tail is long and covered with long dense hair that may be trimmed for neatness. Let the tail hang naturally and the 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Portuguese Water Dog: The tail is long and when the dog is attentive, it is held in a ring over the back and should be in that position when showing. If not, the 4-H’er should hold it in that position.
• Rottweiler: The tail is short and docked. The 4-H’er does not hold it.
• Saint Bernard: The long tail hangs naturally. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Samoyed: The long tail should be over the back or to one side. If the tail is to the side, try to place it on the judge’s side. If held, the hand should be placed at the root of the tail.
• Siberian Husky: When the dog is standing, the tail is down. When moving, the tail is straight out. The 4-H’er should leave the tail hang naturally and not touch it.
• Standard Schnauzer: The tail is short and docked. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail

Stacking:
Basically, the entire working group is stacked squarely, with the exception of the following:

• Black Russian Terrier: The rear legs should be stretched out somewhat.
• Boxer: The dog should be stacked with the back legs stretched out slightly.
• Bull Mastiff: The dog should be stacked with the back legs stretched out somewhat.
• Doberman Pinscher: The dog should be stacked with the back legs stretched out somewhat.
• German Pinscher: The dog should be stacked with the back legs stretched out somewhat.
• Giant Schnauzer: The dog should be stacked with the back legs stretched out somewhat.
• Great Dane: The dog should be stacked with the back legs stretched out.
• Neopolitan Mastiff: The rear legs should be stretched out somewhat.
• Rottweiler: The dog should be stacked with the back legs stretched out somewhat.
• Standard Schnauzer: The dog should be stacked with the back legs stretched out and the dog stacked to give the appearance of being on the toes of their back feet.

Gaiting Speed:
All of the working group is gaited with the 4-H’er and dog running – remember this should be an even, smooth pace, with the exception of the following:

• German Pinscher: The gait should be a fast walk or a smooth, even run.

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Terrier Group

The dogs of the Terrier Group were developed primarily on the British Isles to control rodents and other unwanted small animals around farm yards, hunt aggressive game that may dig itself underground, and to protect the farm house. There are two basic types of terriers – long legged and short legged. All terrier breeds are ideally shown to look so alert they give the appearance of a tense energy.

Important Note:
It is never appropriate in the 4-H ring to “spar” terriers. This is defined as bringing two to four dogs together, to face each other, in the center of the area. This is done to show that they will become alert and demonstrate terrier spirit. There is too much potential for a dog to get away from a 4-H’er if this were done in the 4-H ring.

Tail Presentation:

• Airedale Terrier: The tail is of fair length and never curled over the back. However, it does bend forward. If in place, the 4-H’er does not touch the tail.
• American Staffordshire Terrier: The tail tapers to a fine point. It is not docked, not curled and not over the back. The 4-H’er does not touch the tail, but rather lets it hang naturally.
• Australian Terrier: The short, docked tail is straight up. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Bedlington Terrier: The long tail hangs between the rear legs. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Border Terrier: The moderately short tail is carried gaily when alert, but when at ease may drop down. If in place when stacking, the 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Bull Terrier: The short tail is not docked and is ideally horizontal. When stacked, if the dog does not hold the tail horizontal the 4-H’er should hold it.
• Cairn Terrier: The tail is short and must not curl over the back. The 4-H’er will want to hold the tail when stacking the dog.
• Dandie Dinmont Terrier: When stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail about 2" from the tip on a horizontal basis, a continuation of the top line.
• Irish Terrier: The tail is docked. When stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail with the flat side of his/her left hand, pushing slightly forward.
• Kerry Blue Terrier: The 4-H’er will probably want to hold the tail while stacking the dog, holding the tail slightly forward.
• Lakeland Terrier: The 4-H’er will probably want to hold the tail while stacking the dog, holding the tail slightly forward.
• Manchester Terrier (standard): The tail is has a slight upward curve, but never over the back. The 4-H’er should let the tail hang naturally and not touch it.
• Miniature Bull Terrier: The short tail is not docked and is horizontal. When stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail out horizontally.
• Miniature Schnauzer: The tail is erect. When stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail using the flat side of his/her left hand, pushing slightly forward.
• Norfolk Terrier: The tail is docked. When stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail using the flat side of his/her left hand, pushing slightly forward.
• Norwich Terrier: The tail is docked and erect. When stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail using the flat side of his/her left hand, pushing slightly forward.
• Parson Russell Terrier (formerly Jack Russell): When stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail using the flat side of his/her left hand, pushing slightly forward. If the tail is in place, the 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Scottish Terrier: The tail is docked and erect. When stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail using the flat side of his/her left hand, pushing slightly forward.
• Sealyham Terrier: The tail is docked and upright. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Skye Terrier: The tail is long and well feathered. The 4-H’er should let the tail hang naturally and not hold it.
• Smooth Fox Terrier: When stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail using the flat side of his/her left hand, pushing slightly forward.
• Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier: The tail is docked and never over the back. When stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail using the flat side of his/her left hand, pushing slightly forward.
• Staffordshire Bull Terrier: Let the tail of medium length hang naturally between the rear legs. The 4-H’er does not touch the tail.
• Welsh Terrier: The tail is docked and erect. If the 4-H’er holds the tail, he/she should not push it forward.
• West Highland White Terrier: The tail is docked and never over the back. When stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail using the flat side of his/her left hand, pushing slightly forward.
• Wire Fox Terrier: When stacking the dog, the 4-H’er should hold the tail using the flat side of his/her left hand, pushing slightly forward.

Stacking:
Basically, the terrier group is stacked with the rear legs moderately stretched out with the exception of the following:

• American Staffordshire Terrier: The dog should be stacked slightly stretched out and square.
• Border Terrier: The dog should be stacked slightly stretched out.
• Bull Terrier: The dog should be stacked square.
• Cairn Terrier: The dog should be stacked square.
• Miniature Bull Terrier: The dog should be stacked square.
• Norfolk Terrier: The dog should be stacked square.
• Norwich Terrier: The dog should be stacked square.
• Skye Terrier: The dog should be stacked square.

Gaiting Speed:
Most of the terrier group is shown with a brisk walking gait, or a slow run (trot) with the exception of the following:

• Airedale Terrier: The gait should be a run at average speed.
• Kerry Blue Terrier: The gait should be a run at average speed.
• Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier: The gait should be a run at average speed.

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Toy Group

The dogs of the Toy Group are small dogs bred to be companions to the lords and ladies, kings and queens of past history. Now they are companions of a very small size. These dogs are typically shown with their natural ear carriage.

Tail Presentation:

• Affenpinscher: The tail may be docked or natural. A docked tail is erect. A natural tail is gently curved up over the back while moving. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold a docked tail. The natural tail should be held gently curved over the back while stacking.
• Brussels Griffon: The tail is docked and held high. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Cavalier King Charles Spaniel: The 4-H’er should let the tail hang naturally and not touch it. The tail is in constant motion when the dog is in action. The hair on the feet is not to be cut.
• Chihuahua (smooth or long): The tail is moderately long, and sickle either up or out, or in a loop over their back, with the tip just touching the back. The tail should never be tucked between the legs. The 4-H’er should gently use the flat side of his/her hand to hold the tail up.
• Chinese Crested (hairless or powderpuff): The tail is long and slender in either variety. When in motion the tail is slightly forward over the back. At rest the tail is down with a slight curve upward at the end. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• English Toy Spaniel (King Charles & Ruby or Prince Charles & Blenheim): The tail is docked and at or slightly above the level of the back. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail, but if holding should keep it at or slightly above the level of the back and not straight up. The hair on the feet is not to be cut.
• Havenese: The tail is curled over the back. While standing a dropped tail is permissible. If not curled over the back, the 4-H’er should hold the tail when stacking.
• Italian Greyhound: The tail is long and slender, tapering to a curved end. The 4-H’er should let the tail hang naturally and not touch it.
• Japanese Chin: The tail is arched up over the back and flowing to either side of the body. If not over the back, the 4-H’er should hold while stacking.
• Maltese: The tail is a long-haired plume over the back, its tip lying to the side over the quarter. The 4-H’er should hold the tail while stacking, if not in place.
• Manchester Terrier (toy): The tail is tapered, moderately short, and in a slight upward curve but never over the back. If the 4-H’er holds the tail out, it should be even with the top line and held at the tip.
• Miniature Pinscher: The tail is docked and erect. If the tail is not erect, the 4 H’er should hold it up.
• Papillon: The tail is long and well arched over the body. The tail is covered with a long flowing plume that is to either side of the body. If the tail is not up, the 4-H’er should hold it. Try to keep the tail on the judge's side when stacking.
• Pekingese: The tail is well over the center of the back. The long, profuse, straight feathering may fall to either side. If not in place, the 4-H’er should hold while stacking.
• Pomeranian: The plumed tail lies straight and flat on the back. If not in place, the 4-H’er should hold while stacking.
• Poodle (toy): The tail is erect. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not too hold the tail.
• Pug: The tail is curled as tightly as possible over the hip. If in place, the 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Shih Tzu: The tail is heavily plumed and in a curve well over the back. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail while stacking.
• Silky Terrier: The tail is docked and straight up. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail while stacking.
• Toy Fox Terrier: The tail is set high and erect. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Yorkshire Terrier: The tail is docked and slightly higher than the level of the back. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.

Stacking:
Most of the toy group is stacked square, with the exception of the following:

• Italian Greyhound: The rear legs should be stretched back somewhat.
• Silky Terrier: The rear legs should be stretched back somewhat.
• Manchester Terrier: The rear legs should be stretched back somewhat.
• Miniature Pinscher: The rear legs should be stretched back somewhat.
• Brussels Griffon: The rear legs should be stretched back slightly.
• Chinese Crested: The rear legs should be stretched back slightly.
• Poodle: The rear legs should be stretched back somewhat.
• Toy Fox Terrier: The rear legs should be stretched back somewhat.

Gaiting Speed:
4-H’ers should walk with a toy dog, a pace that is acceptable to the speed your dog moves. A trot or a slow run is acceptable for toy dogs.

• Toy Fox Terrier: The gait should be a fast walk.

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Non Sporting Group

The dogs of the Non-Sporting Group have no common characteristic such as intended use, size or skill. They are dogs that did not fit into other groups. Most of these dogs were bred for a purpose other than hunting (sporting or hound group), protection or work (working group). They were too large to be in the toy group, so they were loosely described as non-sporting dogs.

Tail Presentation:

• American Eskimo Dog: The richly plumed tail is placed loosely on the back. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Bichon Frise: The tail is well plumed and curved gracefully over the back. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail. If held, use the flat side of his/her hand to hold the tail.
• Boston Terrier: The tail is short, fine and tapering, straight or screw, and must not be above the horizontal line of the dog. The 4-H’er should not touch the tail, but rather leave it natural.
• Bulldog: The tail may be either straight or screwed. The 4-H’er should not touch the tail, but rather leave it natural.
• Chinese Shar-Pei: The tail curls over the back or to either side of the back. If the tail is in place when presenting, the 4-H’er does not need to hold it. If it isn’t, the 4-H’er should hold it.
• Chow Chow (smooth and rough): The tail is close to the back. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Dalmation: The tail is long, straight, and tapers to a tip. The tail has a slight upward curve and is never over the back. If the tail is not in place, the 4-H’er should hold it.
• Finnish Spitz: The tail forms a single curl falling over the loin. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• French Bulldog: The tail is straight or screwed, short and low in repose. The 4-H’er should not touch the tail, but rather leave it natural.
• Keeshond: The tail is curled over the back. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Lhasa Apso: The tail is well over the back in a screw. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Löwchen: The tail is over the back when the dog is moving, but hangs down when standing. The tail should be held if it is not in place for presentation.
• Poodle (miniature and standard): The tail is erect. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Schipperke: The tail is docked or there is no tail. The 4-H’er should not touch the tail, but rather leave it natural.
• Shiba Inu: The tail is over the back in a sickle or curled position. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Tibetan Spaniel: The plumed tail is in a curl over the back when moving. The tail may drop down when standing. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.
• Tibetan Terrier: The tail falls forward over the back or may curl to either side. If possible, the 4-H’er should choose the judge’s side when presenting the tail. The 4-H’er can choose whether or not to hold the tail.

Stacking:
Because of the vast difference in dogs in the non-sporting group, each breed is stacked uniquely.

• American Eskimo Dog: The dog should be stacked square.
• Bichon Frise: The dog should be stacked with the rear legs stretched out somewhat.
• Boston Terrier: The dog should be stacked with the rear legs slightly stretched out.
• Bulldog: The dog should be stacked square.
• Chinese Shar-Pei: The dog should be stacked square.
• Chow Chow: The dog should be stacked square.
• Dalmation: The dog should be stacked with the rear legs stretched out.
• Finnish Spitz: The dog should be stacked square.
• French Bulldog: The dog should be stacked square.
• Keeshond: The dog should be stacked square.
• Lhasa Apso: The dog should be stacked with the rear legs slightly stretched back.
• Löwchen: The dog should be stacked with the rear legs slightly stretched back.
• Poodle: The dog should be stacked with the rear legs stretched back.
• Schipperke: The dog should be stacked square.
• Tibetan Spaniel: The dog should be stacked square.
• Tibetan Terrier: The dog should be stacked with the rear legs slightly pulled back.

Gaiting Speed:

• American Eskimo Dog: The gait should be a run.
• Bichon Frise: The gait should be a brisk walk or slow run (trot).
• Boston Terrier: The gait should be a walk.
• Chinese Shar-Pei: The gait should be a walk.
• Dalmation: The gait should be a run.
• Finnish Spitz: The gait should be a run.
• French Bulldog: The gait should be a walk.
• Keeshond: The gait should be a run.
• Lhasa Apso: The gait should be a walk.
• Löwchen: The gait should be a slow run (trot).
• Poodle: The gait should be a run.
• Shipperke: The gait should be a brisk walk.
• Shiba Inu: The gait should be a brisk walk or slow run (trot).
• Tibetan Spaniel: The gait should be a walk.
• Tibetan Terrier: The gait should be a run.

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Herding Group

The dogs of the Herding Group were developed for their skill in herding and controlling livestock. Many of these dogs were split from the working group in the mid-1980’s. Herding dogs are normally shown to appear alert and responsive to the handler. They are shown with their ears pricked forward.

Tail Presentation:

• Australian Cattle Dog: The tail is long. The 4-H’er does not need to touch it, but rather it should hang naturally.
• Australian Shepherd: The tail is docked or naturally bobbed. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Bearded Collie: The tail is long. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Belgian Malinois: The tail is long. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Belgian Sheepdog: The tail is long. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Belgian Tervuren: The tail is long. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Border Collie: The tail is long. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Bouvier des Flandres: The tail is docked or they are born tailless. If held, it is to be held upward.
• Briard: The tail is long. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Canaan Dog: The tail is long. When the dog is excited, the tail may curl over the back in one full curl. The 4-H’er should let the tail hang naturally or curl over the back, and not touch it.
• Cardigan Welsh Corgi: The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Collie (rough and smooth): The tail is long. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• German Shepherd Dog: The tail is long. The 4-H’er does not touch it, but rather lets it hang naturally.
• Old English Sheepdog: The tail is docked close to the body when not naturally bob-tailed. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Pembroke Welsh Corgi: The tail is docked as short as possible without being indented. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Polish Lowland Sheepdog: The tail is docked and low set. The 4-H’er does not touch it.
• Puli: The tail is carried over the back. The 4-H’er may hold the tail in place if necessary.
• Shetland Sheep Dog: The tail is long. The 4-H’er does not touch it.

Stacking:
The dogs in the herding group are stacked squarely with the exception of the following:

• Belgian Tervuren: The dog should be stacked with the hind legs back far enough to create of a slope in the topline.
• Briard: The dog should be stacked with the back legs pulled back slightly.
• German Shepherd: The dog should be stacked with the leg next to the judge as the one that is stretched back.

• Old English Sheepdog: The dog should be stacked with the back legs slightly pulled back with the appearance that the dog is somewhat stacked on the toes of the back feet.

Gaiting Speed:
Most of the herding group is gaited at a running pace (always smooth and even, not a "get ahead of everybody pace"), moving out with the dog. The following breeds are exceptions:

• Canaan Dog: The gait is a brisk walk, slow run, or trot.
• German Shepherd Dog: The gait is at a run. The 4-H’er should let the lead out so the dog can gait ahead of the 4-H’er.
• Old English Sheepdog: The gait should be a trot. Expect to see them "roll" over the top line.
• Polish Lowland Sheepdog: The gait is a fluid motion with a medium run. This breed is often an ambler. What you may see while gaiting is that the dog is capable of swinging his front legs forward with great reach of stride. This is perfectly proper.
• Shetland Sheepdog: The gait is a brisk, fast walk or trot.
• Welsh Corgi (cardigan and pembroke): The gait is a brisk walk at moderate speed.

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Miscellaneous Class (not an AKC group)

Breeds in the miscellaneous class have been not yet recognized by the American Kennel Club, but are working toward full recognition. These breeds can compete in some AKC events and earn selected titles.

• Beauceron: The tail is long and should not be touched by the 4-H’er, but rather should hang down naturally. They should be stacked squarely, but with the rear legs stretched out slightly. The gait is a smooth, even run.
• Glen of Imaal Terrier: The tail is long and the 4-H’er should let it hang naturally. The stack is square with the rear legs very slightly stretched out. The gait should be a fast walk.
• Plott Hound: The tail is long with an upward curve. The 4-H’er should not hold the tail over the back. If the 4-H’er holds the tail, it must be held naturally at the tip and there should be a natural curve in the tail. It should not be held straight out. The rear legs should be stretched out slightly when stacked. The gait should be a smooth, even run.
• Redbone Coonhound: The tail is long and has a natural upward curve. The 4-H’er should not hold the tail over the back. If the 4-H’er holds the tail, it should be held naturally with the slight upward curve at the tip of the tail. It should not be held straight out. The rear legs should be stretched out somewhat when stacked. The gait should be a smooth, even run.